Doc Hawk

I sent you an email, but never heard back...?

SDRev is in the process of building a show car in Southern California, S30 with a Vortec 350 SBC. We're very interested in running this tail in CF, at the right price and acceptable weave. You could call us a 100% sale if you can get these within 4 months, and you'd get the spoiler in front of a whole lot of eyes.

I measured/calculated the lift, but I don't have a gauge to measure duration. Thanks Xnke. My buddy and I like to say that I bought a CLSD and it came with a car attached. Or a rear disc conversion that came with a car. Or a set of bride seats that... you get the idea. My buddy also likes to say that he is reporting me to the police for grand theft. I don't like saying that one as much as he does.

Thanks for taking a crack at it. I've built several L6's (a dozen?) in various trims from stock to performance NA to turbo, and I feel pretty comfortable with the motor. The springs are thicker than stock, and look different. The camshaft lift is .480"/.480", which is clearly not stock. I assure you I didn't get taken. The rest of the L28 motor is .50 over Sterling 2cc dished pistons on L24 rods, a fully balanced rotating assembly, Jun 9.7 lb Chromoly flywheel, Centerforce clutch, and HD oil pump. The rest of the car includes poly bushings throughout, straight clean body with a dented fender and no rust (CA car), performance electronic ignition, elec fuel pump, vented big brakes in front, disc brake conversion in rear, Griffin aluminum radiator and elec fan, brand new Falken Azenis on Centerline rims, R200 clutch limited slip differential, new Autopower roll bar, Optima Yellow Top battery, good Bride seats, and a 5 speed. Total price paid was $720 off Craigslist because it was in non-running condition and the guy had to get out of his rental that week. Another Hybridz member can confirm the price.

I have an aftermarket cam on a motor I just bought, and I need some help identifying it. It is stamped 065 on the front, as well as displaying the stock "B". The head also has dual valve springs installed. Any help appreciated!

Don't like Edelbrock carbs? As I said, the rockers are 1.6 rollers. Anodized billet aluminum self-adjusting rollers.

What is the white wire hooked to?

Now to cam this thing. Any help, folks? Here is what I have: 350 SBC, 0010 block Edelbrock 750 carb Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake Edelbrock E-Tec 200 aluminum Vortec heads High-quench chamber Ports are .200" taller than standard small-block Chevy heads 64cc combustion chambers produce 10.2:1 compression with flat-top pistons in 350-inch engines 200cc Intake Runner 2.02" Intake and 1.60" Exhaust Valves Flow numbers: Valve Lift / Intake / Exhaust .100" / 67 / 57 .200" /122 / 110 .300" / 175 / 153 .400" / 223 / 182 .500" / 252 / 196 .600" / 259 / 204 .700" / 265 / 207 Dual valve springs 1.6:1 roller rockers Flat top pistons for 10.2:1 compression Hooker Super Comp Block Hugger headers I would like to go with a Hydraulic roller cam. Here is what I am currently considering: COMP Cam XTREME Energy XR282HR 230/236 @.050 and .510/.520 lift on a 110 LSA Thanks for any help. Please remember the 1.6 rockers.

Thanks Davy, your opinion is matching up with what Chevy guys are telling me, too. Unless you are setting up a drag car running slicks, the WC will not disappoint, says everyone. I'm rebuilding it before it goes into the car.

So as to avoid threadjacking, would some of you cam gurus please check in on my thread here? I have obtained some pretty radical heads, and I'd like to drop in a streetable cam that will take advantage. Thanks!

About 265 non-W/C, 330 W/C. But that is in a 3400 lbs. Camaro. You can put significantly higher power through a car that weighs 1000 lbs. less than that. As I've researched my question on other boards (didn't get any responses here), I have heard from many people putting 400+ HP through T5's for years without issue. The problem seems to be drag launches, power shifting, and general flogging will break a stock transmission. But for regular aggressive driving and road racing, it seems to hold up nicely.

Grumpy, I have a 450 HP 1st Gen 350 SBC build in progress, going into a 240Z. I was planning on running a T5 W/C (which I own) but I am concerned about overwhelming the transmission. It's a street and road race car, not a dragster, so it won't see but one or two drag strip passes in its lifetime, and even then it will be on DOT tires. I do have an opportunity to get a T56 out of an 03 Corvette. Every time I see the swap written up here, they say get the T56 from the LT1 Camaro. Well, that's not the T56 I have a line on, so I'm asking... can the newer Vette T56 be swapped in, or is there a lot more work to get that transmission running behind a 1st Gen SBC? Thanks, David

Are there any low(er) cost upgrade options for my T5 W/C other than the G-Force gears at ~$1200? I would like to make it a little more stout than stock, but for $2000 assembled, heck, I'd rather go with a T56. It's all moot at that point anyway since I don't have that kind of cash.

Intended Use 75% street/ 25% road course. I already have a very high strung 240Z with a class-restricted L28 that is 20% street/80% race (bad idle, obnoxiously firm suspension, very grippy racing clutch), so this car is intended to be more streetable, but still strictly a "weekender" for spirited driving. This will be the car I take to non-competitive HPDE track days for fun flogging around a track with a lot of power and no class restrictions. I am not a drag racer. I do like launching hard at lights within reason, but this will probably go to the strip a couple times to see what she can do and then be done with it. On streets, you're limited by safety concerns, legal concerns, and grip, so I don't think I will be doing much of what can be called "drag strip launches." I like road racing and will be doing that as much as possible. Power Goals Old Goal: It would be nice to have 400 HP for bragging rights, but I think if I am anywhere in that area it will feel pretty darn good in a car that weighs 2400 lbs. New Goals: I was able to find parts very inexpensively that will all go together to probably put out about 450 streetable HP with excellent numbers under the curve. So now my goals are to get the cam right to make it streetable but fun (I want to beat my L28ET buddies) and get the transmission right to hold that power.

A string of serendipity led me to believe I could put together a V8 swap on a pretty tight budget. Here's how it started: I bought a straight, minimal rust '72 S30 for $700. It was a rolling chassis, but came with a said-to-be running 350 SBC with an RPM Performer intake, an L28ET in good condition (complete), spoiler and airdam, and a pair of new racing seats. I sold the L28ET and seats, which offset the cost down to $200. Months later, I found a JTR swap kit on Craigslist. It came complete with the mounts, block hugger headers, required driveshaft and flywheel, and a BW T5 WC Transmission. I emailed, and it turned out that the seller was a friend of mine. We talked and it turned out that he bought the swap kit from the same guy I bought the car from. Further, the swap kit was actually installed and running in the car I now own! So, I bought it for $500. Since I didn't really know if the 350 ran, and I wanted a little more power, I decided to do a little shopping for used parts. Here is my current receipt total for all items in hand: $200 - Another 350, complete: good compression, running motor. $ 80 - Edelbrock 750 carb: ~500 miles on it (PO went with a Demon) Free - Low profile chrome air cleaner assy: Came with carb $500 - E-Tec 200 Vortec heads: ~3000 miles used, assembled, ported. Free - Dual valve springs: Came with heads Free - 1.6 Roller Rockers: Came with heads $ 50 - Flat top pistons - used, good condition. $100 - Hooker Block Hugger 1.75" headers $100 - Professional Products Crosswind Vortec intake (as RPM Air Gap) That puts me at $1030 into the motor, without a cam and lifters. Another $600 goes to my engine builder for assembly, machining, seals, gaskets, rings, pushrods, studs, assembly hardware, etc. I realize some of these parts are a lot more ambitious than "a little more power," but for example when you find a set of complete E-Tec 200's complete, ported and resurfaced, with dual springs and anidized 1.6 roller rockers for $500, it's hard to pass them up. I thought I was going to have all the materials I needed for a complete, running (non-handling; that's a different story) V8 swap for under $3000 for the whole car! Then I saw that my World Class transmission is about 150 HP shy of the power capacity that this combo will probably be putting down. Initial research into the question here and on various SBC forums only turned up solutions that start around $2000. I would appreciate any insight on my build in general, but my specific question is: Are there any low-cost options for a manual transmission capable of handling ~450 HP / ~450 Torque? I don't know what flywheel I have, only that it is the one required to mount the T5. Thanks for any help, David

Leftmost looking at it from which direction?

When you stiffen the front end as much as your triangulated tower brace probably does, you often have to remove the rear bar, or soften it significantly. One of our race Z's out here has a triangulated brace plus downbraces to the front rails. He runs a little 5/8" rear bar with heavy springs on the end links where the spacer sleeves normally go. That effectively reduces the bar rate even more, and it is adjustable by how tight you screw down the end link nuts.

Nicely done! Grounds are your likely problem for the headlights.

Buy an L28 from a 280Z and drop it straight in. L28ET (Turbo) is also easy, but not as easy as you are looking for, and you'd need help.

Check my "Hazards and Turn Signals" thread - I solved my problem.

That photo makes three Hybrid Z'ers I know of that do all their automotive work in flip-flops!

You can trace it yourself using the diagram I posted on the first page of this thread. Here's the link again. It goes to the fuse box, then to a relay, and finally to the ignition switch. I would suspect you have a connector problem; check for corrosion, or a spade connector that has backed out of a connector.

Update HERE

I'll multimeter mine... I presume it will show hot when the switch is on.

Just wanted to update this thread a bit... We just finished installing an Arizona aluminum radiator today, and purchased the hoses recommended above: Upper Hose: Carquest #22373 Lower Hose: from 280ZX The upper hose was great, with a little trimming. The lower hose could also be trimmed to fit. However, we found that the following hose was a MUCH better fit for the lower hose, and goes perfectly around the alternator with no kinking. Lower Hose: NAPA 7563 I hope this helps someone out! David