azguy

It's on streetfire.net that's what's wrong.... alot of lies on that site...

Good stuff... waste of a BMW if he's driving.

hybrid z v8-tech.... I like....

If you don't get sucked into the "while i'm at it" black hole, you should be fine with 3-5k IMO. I'm assuming your going to be doing all the work on the car yourself.

I think I need: -fuel injector cleaner for carburated engines -a clutch belt -cross drilled brake lines -left handed adjustable wrench See more here http://www.kalecoauto.com/

:hail:The 2006 BMW 760i and 760 Li comes with solenoid actuated valves among alot of new bells and whistles. This new 6.0 v-12 is rated around 440 hp and torque. Using this new technology, BMW has made a car that has a ever changing "cam" and thus a very long (wide) powerband. Valve lift/duration is variable depending on how far gas pedal is pushed. This variable valve lift/duration is now used to control acceleration and there is no main valve body - well there is but it no longer acts like the valve bodies that we know. Now this is technology! Of course one of my first thoughts was... wonder if this will fit into a z, sorry I didn't have access to a tape measure at the time. My first thought was wanting to drive the car. I would LOVE to shoehorn one of these bad boys into a z. This information was obtained from a BMW master tech teacher. As far as I know, this information is true and is not published data.

I called Sanderson right after making my last post. I figured my problems are not JTR's fault because Sanderson made the headers and not JTR. The people at Sanderson were very helpful and advised that they would recoat the header one time for free with about a week turn around time. I asked them about not having a receipt. They said no problem, just to leave a note saying I bought them through JTR and that was good enough. Does anyone know how they get the rust off the header before they coat it again? I'm thinking it has to be a chemical.

Wow those are some nice looking headers you got there slownrusty Thanks for the input. I am going to give JTR a call.

I don't know anything about what ceramic coated headers should look like as these are my first pair. This is what one of my headers looks like. I bought them through JTR. They are sanderson street rod headers. I paid the extra money to get them coated also. They look like they are rusting. WTF? I talked to JTR who advised me to use some aluminum polish on them. Tried that and it gets the rust off but the headers are REALLY dull looking and no longer shine at all. One of my friends at school said that they should not look the way they do. He said either they were coated really cheap or not coated at all. Please help me out with any information. This is what it used to look like. Now it looks like this.

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Could your friend have possibly "hooked him up" with a "fix" in return for having the car for a week? Where I come from it is called "clucking". Example: *blank* clucked his car for a crack rock. The deal is to let the person providing the drugs to drive the car for a day or week in return for free drugs. Many cars are reported stolen after this type of "transaction" and are found by the cops at some $20 a night motel, out of gas, and usually driven hard and damaged. How do I know this?..... I use to find these vehicles all the time with my old job. Ask a crackhead.... they'll usually admit to doing it at least once.... that is if they "own" or uummm say that a car is theirs.... or what I call a death trap on wheels. Your friend might want to make sure that he has the title in his name before the owner calls the cops and makes up a story to get it back.

uhhh... make that 4. It's damn outta hand hot here now. Except I have a 280zx and need some AC big time.

-Love the hood, gotta start working on mine now... don't quite understand modding the radiator mounting so that you can stuff pusher fan(s) in front of it. -Where is the battery? Is that a giant sub in the back hatch area? Just wondering where they relocated the battery to, maybe to the old spare compartment.

Albuquerque

JTR offers a aluminum radiator for the z and the zx and sells the brackets, hoses, adaptors, etc... can't get a more straight forward bolt on kit than this imo. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZ_Radiator_Kit.html I am currently running a zx aluminum radiator with brackets supplied by jtr on my 83 LT1 and I am very pleased.

Thanks for the info and the heads up. I am from New Mexico where it gets hot, but not THIS damn hot (not in the 100's yet)... and not for this long. In New Mexico it only reaches into the 100's for about a week. I am just not used to heat, having worked nights and slept during the day for the past four years.

The problem was caused by my stock z ignition switch going completely out. I just opened up the kickpanel ..(boy this car would be SO easy to hotwire)and took a glance at my zx manual and found the right wires and wired up a switch.. One problem now.... my whole stock ignition switch is bypassed so you don't need a key to start the car:?... just flip one switch and press the starter switch. I am going to relocate the ignition power switch somewhere in the car so that no one will find but me. You still need the key or else the steering wheel locks when turned though....

Well I just arrived in Glendale a couple days ago and just want to give a shout to the hybridz guys living in the the Phoenix/Glendale area. I will be attending UTI starting 6.6.05. Yep that's me driving that multi primer red 280zx with side pipes:) or the white 72 with the pro-bush stickers all over it. Hope to see some of ya on the road! Take it easy on me... i'm new here.. Already got a rock thrown at me and it hit the roof of the 72!! If they only knew what I pack in this case... it's not just a laptop.. hehehe. Punks! I'll show them how we deal with rock-throwers where I come from.

Well I finally got to drive my LT1 powered 83 280zx for the "real" first time this week. Got it out of the tranny shop.... told them to stop "working" on it because I was moving to Glendale, AZ and that I will fix the tranny myself - like everything else on the car. First gear STILL does not work Well I got it out of the shop around 4pm and I was leaving to Glendale at midnight! My 72 was already on a tow dolly ready to go. If the LT1 broke down between now and my arrival in Glendale, I planned on just switching the two and driving the 72 and towing the LT1. (FYI not towing WITH the zx or z but with a van) So.... I needed to get some driving time in to see if everything was running properly:icon28:. Drove it around town for like 6 hours giving rides to all my friends who were all when they heard/saw me coming. Everyone said that they didn't think that it would ride/look/sound like it does - boy these side pipes are saaaweeett sounding. Even without first gear, it is sure fun to drive. Can't wait to get first working... it will be a whole NEW car with first working. No problems as of 12 midnight so off we went.... west @400 miles... a TRUE first road test. No driveline vibrations!- thanks for the tip Mike from JTR!! Trip turned out fine... except for: -some poorly placed left O2 senor wires mysteriously got caught up in steering shaft and cut, yes I said steering- found the reason why it was hard to make that left turn into the gas station.... maybe because I was damaging something!!:twak:O2 was fixed easily while at a gas station because I brought extra wire, etc. -slight hearing damage in my left ear :violin:from running 8 hours with the windows down, side pipes blaring. :search:THE SEARCH FUNCTION WORKED FOR ME!! A very special thanks to everyone on hybridz.org for your help on making this dream become a reality in less than a year. My countless use of the *search* function late into the night and wee hours of the morning helped me figure out all the kinks other people had before and find solutions to them before they became my problems. It seems those countless hours were not spent in vain as the only thing to go wrong...well since the O2 on the way.... happened yesterday, my old key ignition went completely out (starter engagement part went out couple weeks before)- All electrical just turned off... going 80mph on the freeway:eek:... again fixed with wire and connectors etc I now REGULARLY carry with me. A HUGE thanks to all who run this site and keep it alive!!!!!!! Long live hybridz.org!!!!!!!! I will post some pics tomorrow. My website should be up at the latest saturday evening when I get internet installed in my apartment. As for now I am using the net from a local coffee shop offering free wireless access. EDIT Engine bay is NOT as clean as I want it... but when you are pressed for time... as they say.... "when you got to go, you GOT TO GO"

I used a 94 caprice 9c1 cop car engine also. It must have vats programmed into the pcm. I used a painless wiring harness with the vats bypass module. I've tried starting it without the bypass module but it will start and then die. If you are going to program your own pcm I suggest you use a laptop with a com port and do not buy a usb port cable IF you want to program. I just messed up my pcm trying to program it using tunercat and a new usb cable from AKM. I had to buy a new pcm.... $115. I then talked to tunercat guys and a local performace shop programmer and they both described what happened to me without me saying anything about what happened. It reads and I can use freescan fine, just don't program using usb cable!

-Two things I started thinking about. Kill two problems with one solution. 1 - I just stopped by the shop that is working on my tranny and took a look at my zx. The ceramic coated headers sit right below the two vents on my turbo hood and it has rained on them. It looks like orange rust on the collector part of the headers. Is this rust or something else? What is the correct way to clean and make them all shiny again? 2- I've heard talk about 240's open front causing under hood pressure wanting to lift the front up at high speeds, is it the same for the zx? Solution - I have been thinking about making some fiberglass reverse scoops (cowl hood like?) to help vent some air up and also protect headers and engine from getting rained on. I was originally thinking of making some scoops but then I started to think about under hood pressure - that and driving in the rain. What you all think? Tranny shop has been "working" on my car for 2 and 1/2 months now and still not done fixing a overdrive problem. I'm starting to think me and my carbon 15 need to make a surprise visit.

I think my boss has a little too much extra money that he could have given in raises to his workers instead of buying this bad boy. Price tag of 4k. All custom from Arizona Sports Center. Still fun to drive though. Powered by a four stroke engine. It is being used as a parking lot patrol vehicle for our local amusement park. It takes curbs very well.... I wouldn't know that though