mrw

As the title says, I am looking for a 1977 280 z fuel tank. I am located in Delaware. Let me know what you have.

By any chance do you still have the fuel tank?

I have a 4 speed from my '77 if you want to drive to northern Delaware.

In for raffle

Are you looking for a v8 swap? What is your budget?

Depending on the year, those engines weigh between 950 and 1200 lbs without the tranny, almost half the weight of a 240. I have never heard of anyone doing it.

pm sent

Don't be afraid to ship if you have a car to sell. I sold my diesel Ford Excursion on fleabay to a guy in Sweeden. He wired the money and the shipping company picked it up at my office. The total from my door to the port in Sweeden was $1,300. I paid $1,100 for a z that I had shipped from the Los Angeles area to my door on the east coast. I used D.A.S. to ship the car from Cali. I donot recall the company that shipped to Sweeden.

Thanks mate!

Does anyone have any pictures of a JTR a/c compressor installed on an LS1?

I appreciate the offer. I will send you a pm with my contact info. Thanks

Donovan and NewZed. Thanks fir the comments. I have a shop manual for the 77 and I am putting th harness for the 77 back in. I no longer have the ballast so once I find one I should be able to get the rest or the FI and distributor wiring back together. I think both the 77 and 78 have externally regulated alternators. The 78 has a two prong oil pressure sending unit. can I use the two prong and if so which post will send a signal to the gauge? I have read about the fuel pump tie to the AFM but I do not know if I need can use the 78 AFM with the 77 harness.

I have a 1977 280z that I took the engine out of 6 years ago and I am now getting around to putting an engine from a 1978 back in. Unfortunately I do not remember where all of the wires fo. There appears to be a difference between the 1977 and 1978 harnesses. I am looking for some pictures of the area where the coil is mounted to the inner fender well (specifically the ballast) and also all of the wiring on the passenger side of the engine compartment. If anyone that has a 1977 in stock format and can email me some pictures I would appreciate it. I am in Wilmington DE so if you are in this area I would be happy to come and take the pic myself. Please pm me if you can help and I will send you my email address. Thanks

I have one I pd $50 shipped and do not need now. I will sell it the same way.

pm sent

I have a 77 with a 4 speed. It was pulled a few years ago after being parked for a number of years. I was planning on doing a v8 swap but switched to a 240 for the swap. Injectors are probably gummed up. I have owned the car for over 20 years, bought it with 44k and parked it with 65k. It will probably take a little work to get it running if you are sticking with fuel injection. I am located in northern Delaware. Make me an offer. I do have a 5 speed that i ran for a while but 3rd gear started to wine so I pulled it out. Zip code is 19807 if you want to see how far I am. I can load it in you truck.

I have a straight hood for $200. I am in Wilmington so you can pick it up. PM your contact info if you ar interested.

I have a Power Brute LSD in my 73 240z (v8 6 SP). The rear chatters way too much for my liking. I swapped the diff fluid to Royal Purple Synthetic that has the friction modifier already in it. The chatter was reduced substantially after the fliud change. Can I add more friction modifier to reduce the chatter further? I have not been able to find much info on rebuilding the rear that will reduce the tightness of the rear. I do not want to give up the lsd but I do not race the car and I need to find a way to make it more streetable. The diff only has about 2000 miles on it. I only put about 1000-1500 miles on the car per year and I am guessing that it will take alot of miles before it wears enough to be more streetable. Any suggestions?

Many, but not all pictures are not viewable. I am getting a "no permission" sign. What do I need to do to see the pictures?

I cleaned all of the sockets. It turns out that my right signal bulb is not working at all but the lens was lighting up when the uppet light came on. The signal bulb is a single filament bulb. I swapped the left and right bulbs and the problem did not move. I suspected grounding problems but I do not know where the grounds hook to the body. I assumed that they were grouped together before they were grounded but I have not determined if that is the case. I will purchase a new bulb tomorrow and see if it makes a difference and then I willl add another ground to the taillights to see if the problems go away. If anyone has any other suggestions I would like to hear them.

I have a 73 240 with turn signal issues. My head, tail, and right turnsignals all work fine. When you turn on the left turn signal the rear brake lights on both side also flash (weakly). The front signals and running lights all operate fine.I have cleaned all of the bulb sockets and bulb contacts. It appears that they alll use a common ground but I am not sure. I have swapped out the turn signal switch with a spare and the problem remains. Any thoughts?

What spring rates do you recommend on a 73 w/ a Chevy 350 (iron head) t56. I want to drop the ride height slightly. I do not race the car and I would prefer to keep a somewhat reasonable ride. thanks

Are you going to do a swap or are you looking for a driver. I have a 77 280 that I pulled the engine and tranny out of to do a v8 swap. It is a CA car in VG shape with only one spot of rust. I am considering selling it and I am in Delaware with a trailer.

Jon, Thanks for the thread. I will post an update when when I get further on. ODDMANOUT84 AND TURBOBOOST should read the thread and understand the advantages of air bag suspension. The technology has been improving over the last few years and I hope to find a way to make it work.