rickyellow zee

Im replacing the intake /exhaust manifold gasket on my L28ET with a Felpro paper/metal/paper gasket. I have had the exhaust mani resurfaced so its flat as a pancake. Is it a good idea to use the copper spray gasket sealer on the gasket prior to installation? Ive heard lots of horror stories of people using Felpro gaskets but have also heard allot of good reviews on these gaskets. The mating surfaces are flat and clean. Thanks very much! Rick

Will do. Thanks for the help guys.

Im looking for some tension rods (or as the FSM refers to them as compression rods or radius rods) for my 78 280z. My question is will any S30 rod work for my car or are there differences between the 240 260 and 280 models. There is a seller on ebay who has some from a 260z. I don't want to buy the wrong parts. Thanks. Rick

Looking for a period correct wood shift knob for my 5 speed 280z. OEM and Datsun stuff only please. Thanks

There are 3 wires which go to the turn signals. One is ground, one is for the signal and the last illumintaes the light when the headlights are turned on. Your problem lies with the wire used to signal. I just went through something similar last night. Time to check the wiring loom for breaks.

Sorted out the problem. The green and white wire which provides 12v to the side markers, turn signal and horn was broken off i the wiring loom. Also fixed the red black headlight ground which was heating up by using a bigger gauge wire. The previous gauge wire i used was much too small to provided a good ground. Thanks. Rick

Car is a 78 280z. First off I had a problem with my front low beams not working so I grounded the red black wire according to the youtube vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CW5vTG8802U) and that fixed my low beams. My front side marker lights were also not working so I tried to splice into the ground wire of the side markers and attached it to a body ground(just like the headlight fix) and the side markers still dont work and the red black spliced wire(headlight) is getting hot to the touch. Rear side markers work fine. I disconnected the side markers spliced wire (which is a black ground wire according to the fsm) to the chassis ground and the red black wire cooled off. Any idea whats going on here. When I ground out the side marker "ground" wire I heat up the headlight wire. Hope that made sense. Thanks Rick

I just googled and...You are correct! Thats the one. Thanks

Like this.

I just had my clutch replaced and one of the lines that go to the tranny were loose. Its not the clutch line that carries fluid from the master cylinder but the line that attaches near the other end of the tranny near the drive line. Any idea what line this is? Im trying to add pics but the site is not letting me today. Maybe wrong file ext. Thanks

As the title says needed jdm s30 fender mirrors. thanks

no need to be smart. Ive been pleasant thus far thanking everyone for their help then i get "good for you". im like what? pfft.

Stock 1983 throttlebody.

I did the throttle valve switch test on Sunday when I installed the new throttlebody. It was on the money.

I tested the afm. Test one I got 201ohms and the fsm says I should get between 280-400. I ve read this test is always a failure, not sure. Test 2 was also good as I swept the afm flapper, Test 3 was also good as there was no continuity between the pins 26 31 33 and body ground. Air test temp also proved to be accurate. Where to go from here.

It loses pressure over time. Before i start the car i let the fuel pressure build by putting the key in the start position and wait for the fuel pump to prime. at that time my pressure is where it should be as per fsm. Im trying to do things by the book as best as i can. thanks again.

Sorry but i dont understand. spray at throttle body. Earlier today i had tge throttlebody off and replaced the gasket. Im sure its air tight. what will sprayin carb cleaner at a throtlebody do?

I have an adjustable fpr and pressure is good as per the fsm. There are no vacuum leaks and ive tried spraying carb cleaner around various intake mani locations. not sure if thats what you meant with the carb cleaner.

The only thing maintaining idle is the air regulator.

At start up it cranks and cranks until i give it some gas. sometimes it sputters out and dies and sometimes it barely keeps idle. my afm cover is off and if i turn the pot(sweeper) it richens out the mixture and the idle cleans up. lumpiness is gone until i let go of the afm sweeper(I belive its a potentiometer?). Tgats my start up woes. once the car is warmed up its alright except for the low idle.

I will check the AFM tonite when I get home. The 02 sensor is new and I do get the green light at the ecu. That tells me the ecu is reading the 02 sensor right?

The car does go like a bat outta hell when in gear and the pedal is mashed. Its just idle and start up that Im having an issue with.

So sorry maybe I didnt explain myself correctly. I measured the resistance using an ohmmeter. It checked out. I also checked continuity of the wire for shits n giggles. Also tested the sensor itself with an ohmmeter. Thanks for all the help thus far. I am grateful.

Car is running stock 280zx turbo ecu.

Ok. it will lower idle but that doesnt explain why my car runs the same with the chts unplugged as it does pluggged in. I tested the chts at the ecu plug and used my multimeter as per the fsm. I did it properly i assure you. Then tested at the sensor, same readings.