Search the Community

Just bought the FAST EZ-EFI kit from Z Car Depot for my 1983 280zx. Put it on my car the other day and it runs worse than it ever has. Car will idle but is very hard to start and really rough when it's running. Using any more than 1/4 throttle will stall the engine. When I am able to rev the engine it's terribly rough. Feels like or an ignition timing issue. I know that when I removed the old EFI harness I disconnected a connector going into the distributor and the new harness did not have a connection to plug back in to the dizzy. Since adding the EZ EFI, ignition timing has retarded itself about 10 degrees at idle. Advancing timing does not help the issue. I have setup the ECU with all the correct parameters listed with the info from zcardepot. ECU doesn't throw any codes, all readings seem mostly normal for not being tuned. It feels like it could be a vacuum leak or vacuum not hooked up correctly as well however my vacuum readings are perfectly normal. Has anyone else has this issue? I will add pictures of the engine in it's current state along with the connections that were left unplugged when adding the EZ EFi kit, Including the oil temp sensor. Does this stuff really get left unplugged?

1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT

Are you a car enthusiast looking to get your foot in the door of the aftermarket racing parts industry? We build and sell racing fuel injection systems, and we're looking for a technical sales and service position. We are looking for someone with experience with installing and tuning tunable aftermarket fuel injection, even if the experience so far has just been on your own personal project or friends' cars rather than paid work. MegaSquirt or AMP EFI experience preferred. Here's what you will be doing. Entering phone orders and creating customer accounts. Helping customers determine which of our products are needed for their projects. Provide technical support for installing and tuning fuel injection systems, by phone, email, and social media. Set up and process returns, including some troubleshooting of returned electronics. Install and test new products and other R&D work alongside our engineering staff. Collect marketing data, bug reports, and other information from customers. Represent our company at trade shows, racing events, and other events. And other tasks as needed - we're a small company, so employees are expected to wear many hats. You might need to help fill in for production, shipping, or product testing if somebody is absent, for example. And here are the skills we need you to have for this job. Experience with installing and tuning aftermarket tunable fuel injection systems. MegaSquirt / AMP EFI preferred. Dyno tuning experience is not required. Good communications skills - in person, over the phone, and in writing. The ability to remain polite, even with difficult customers. Basic computer literacy, and the ability to help customers who don't have this. Familiarity with common race car modifications and the ability to install at least basic bolt on parts. Understanding of electronics and wiring diagrams. We'd prefer if you can also understand schematic drawings of circuit boards. Being able to diagnose and repair circuit boards is a plus, but not required. This is mostly a 40 hour a week office job, but there is some travel (less than 10% of the time), and occasional weekend or after hours work. If you're interested, please email a resume, cover letter, and salary requirements to ben@diyautotune.com. Job location is in Gainesville, Georgia, USA.

Hello everyone! Im new to the Hybrid Z forums so I thought I would start a build thread for my build on my 1975 280z. Current car: 1975 Datsun 280z Mods: Subaru Power Steering conversion, Full Eibach suspension, aftermarket swaybar + full polyurethane bushing conversion, Toyota front disc conversion, aftermarket A/C installed, 240z driveline, (im probably missing some things so I'll update it as I go.) I have roughly 20 years of receipts of all the work done to the car. I just recently acquired the car so everything listed above was done by the previous owner. Now here is my plans for the rest of the car: [Key --> Green = Acquired Crossed Out = No longer using ] Turbo Spec Motor 7.31:1 Compression (N42 block/P90 Head) Either T3 Precision Turbo or T3 Turbonetics Arp Head Studs External Wastegate + Blowoff Valve + AFR + Boost Gauge Oil Cooler Turbo dizzy 82/83 280zx + shaft Megasquirt EFI kit from Softopz 550cc RX7 Injectors / 440 cc Supra Injectors (For Sale, Message me if interested I will ship at no extra cost) Turbo Oil pump (thoughts?) 240sx throttle body + Sensor Intercooler + Piping Oil Pressure T for oil lines to turbo (in & dump) 2mm head gasket to lower compression to 7.8/1 wastegate Downpipe (need a dump tube as well for the wastegate) Turbo Manifold(x2 anybody want to purchase my extra?) + wastegate adapter 2.5" exhuast / black widow widowmaker Upgraded Ignition System (not sure which to go with yet, suggestions??) NGK Plugs Pallnet Fuel Rail Kit + Throttle Body Spacer Electric fuel pump upgrade + New Pressure Regulator ------------------------------------------------- UPDATES: Update 11/3/2017 - With some great info/advice from the comments, I am highly considering going with a megasquirt plug in play kit made by softopz (just waiting on his reply at the moment). I've also decided I definitely DO want a bigger cam, so any suggestions on that front are helpful as well. Also I have added that if I go the megasquirt route I am ordering a pallnet fuel rail to compliment it. Update 11/4/2017 - Alright after meticulous research, hours of comparing prices and talking back and forth to people who have done the cam/turbo builds and the potential power gain (and I do mean COUNTLESS hours of this haha), I have decided to completely ditch the whole cam and head upgrade idea and go the turbo build route. For almost the same price (actually a bit cheaper) I can get alot more smiles per gallon with the turbo build. There just isn't enough power to be had on the N/A build for the amount being spent. So as of right now this is the game plan. I will continue to add to this as I see fit, everything will be updated on this original thread post. Part 2 11/4/2017 Just went through the receipts on the car (dating back to the late 90's) and boy was I in for surprise! All of the tedious work to maintain the stock L28 has been completely gone through by the PO! For example the timing chain kit from Z Motorsport has been installed, Tune up kits routinely done, fuel pump and filters / lines replaced, harmonic balancer replaced, and the list goes on. I couldnt be more happy with this purchase!! Did I mention the PO gave me a close ratio 5-speed for the car?! This car amazes me and I am very thankful that it has had such meticulous care over the years. Update 11/7/17 Added some parts to the list. Also purchased a turbo manifold on facebook for 150 bucks! ***Update 11/10/17**** I have purchased a complete L28 turbo motor setup at a very very good price! Here are the engine specs: L28 N42 Block with dished pistons, P90 Head, N47 intake, turbo manifold, Pallnet fuel rail + Fuel pressure gauge, 440cc supra injectors, rebuilt chinese housing turbo with turbonetics internals, turbo dizzy, and assembled with ARP studs. Came with some other misc parts as well. Update 11/13/17 Link to spreadsheet for parts list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iOiWBJyjQH3KEkLnBor0snwgOvXaUo4I0qIo1ZDYFZo/edit?usp=sharing Update 12/7/17 Tore down the entire motor and I am going to rebuild the bottom end and the head and all freeze plugs timing chain etc... Ordered all the parts just need to hot tank the block to start assembly again.

When you guys have done a 240z to EFI conversion whether it's MS or stock ECUs where do you route the EFI harness through the firewall? Do you cut a new hole near the brake booster or repurpose another hole? Looking for ideas. Thanks

After kicking around many ideas I decided to go with an external surge tank and external pumps to feed the fuel rail of my rb25det in my 240z. I tried an intank fuel pump previously. The intank pump is the way to go for sure as long as you have adequate baffling and good general design. My problem stemmed from a poor design and using a rusty tank a buddy gave me. I started a thread on that. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94261-bonks-efi-fuel-tank/ I will update that thread with some lessons learned soon. Luckily I still had the original tank I pulled out of the car at the start of my project. It had a little rust, the local radiator shop was able to clean it out using acid and hot tanked it ($89). The key to my project is that there are no modifications to the stock tank. I chose to use the bcbroncos product, Accumulator Tank, ( http://www.bcbroncos.com/fuelefi.html ) scroll to the bottom the page. The tank is a converted remote oil filter. The guys at bcbroncos use this tank for their EFI conversions (if the customer does not want to spring for the intank solution). Fuel goes in the top, pass through the filter, there is a pickup tube that extends to the bottom of the filter where the fuel is picked up by the HP pump. bcbroncos added a third fitting (5/16ths) to the top of the modified oil filter to manage the return system (see tee fitting in website image). You plumb the return from the engine to one side of the tee and the return to the tank to the other side. I am feeding the surge tank with a low pressure Airtex 8016S pump. On the engine side of the surge tank is a high pressure Walbro GSL392 pump. The obvious problems with this kind of are the following: 1) Mounting everything (there aint much room) while staying away from the exhaust and the suspension and anything else that moves (rips). 2) Return Pressure Part A - there must be free flow from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to the tank. If the system lacks enough return capacity (adequate fuel line inside diameter), pressure can build up in the surge tank. In this case that is not an option because the tank is nothing more than a thread on filter. People have reported problems with their bcbroncos accumulator tanks leaking. I suspect that is because they did not have adequate return capacity to the tank and pressure built up inside the surge tank. 3) Return Pressure Part B* - if there is not free flow after the FPR then the HP pump has to work under load and will get HOT! = BAD for pump and WIRE! If the HP pump is working hard and getting hot then the WIRE feeding it juice is getting HOT. 4) Noise of external pumps (live with it) * - source Tony D. 1) After looking around the back of the car for a while I found a cluster of three threaded holes. I made a plate (1/8-inch) and threaded M6 hardware into the holes. I use the plate as a base to weld an extension out of some small box tubing. This was needed to move everything away from the Mustache Bar. I welded another plate to the box tubing, drilled to accept the surge tank and pump mounting plate (16-gage sheet metal). 2) After exchanging emails with Tony D, I was convinced that I needed to increase my return capacity to the tank. I already replaced the little pinner 3/16ths return line with 5/16ths when the drivetrain was out. But the stock tank has that 3/16ths return above the 5/16ths pickup. I decided to swap my usage of the 3/16ths return line with the smaller top of tank vent line (@ 5/16ths or a little bigger. At this point you simply need to make a 3 to 5/16ths adapter to plump the stock return to the vent tank. 3) After doing some research on the amp draw of the pumps and exchanging emails with Yury at Wiringspecialties.com we decided that I would be OK running both pumps over the stock 10-guage wire that runs from the back of the car near the tank (Nissan ran it back there to allow for an optional electric fuel pump on the carburated cars) to the front (Green wire). I am monitoring the wire (grabbing it to see if it gets hot) as I've running the cat over the last few weeks and have felt to heat at all. The Walbro has never gotten hot at all. The LP pump gets warmish, but not hot. 4) The Airtex pump makes a lot of noise (grumble) at idle. Can't hear it when you are underway. It doesn't bother me. Priming the system, I disconnected the power and ground to the Walbro and cycled the car in the ON position running the LP pump. I waited until I heard gas falling from the vent fitting back into the tank. I connected the HP pump back up and went for it. Damn thing started right up. Crazy. The Bad/weird part. When I shut the car off the LP pump continues to run for a second or two. I have a an inline fuel pressure gage in the engine bay. After I turn the car off it reads @ 25 psi pre-rail. After 20 minutes or so the pressure bleeds off. I am concerned this may not be good for the FPR. BUT the remnant pressure is great for one thing, starting the car back up. When I had my intank setup. I had to prime the system in the ON position everytime I started the car. Now, no need, the fires right up on the the first crank everytime. Thanks for reading. Bonk

This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.

Guys, I'm still trying to get to my first drive after a long build. Last week I had an electrical issue that a few of you posted replies, and "rsicard" identified the issue. Thanks to everyone. So now electrical issues are behind me, I think. And I'm having a fuel delivery issue. The stock '77 280Z fuel pump is supposed to be good enough for TPI according to the JTR EFI book, but if I read between the lines I think it is marginal. No matter, my stock pump developed a slight leak between the halves of the fuel pump body, so a few weeks ago, I replaced it with a new 280Z pump "Airtex E8312" from Autozone. After getting the timing close (more work to do there later) it idles smoothly and pressure (measured at the shrader valve) stays between 35-40 PSI at idle. But as soon as I tip in the throttle, the pressure starts dropping until it dies at or below 25 PSI. Even if I try to go back to idle, once the pressure starts dropping, it can't seem to recover. No matter how careful I am, and I'm talking about barely 2000-2200 RPM, I seem to get fuel starvation. I talked to the parts house, and the Airtex E3210 is the replacement 5.7L Camaro pump, which is rated at the same max. pressure, 5 PSI less minimum pressure, but about 40% more flow rate. Flow rate sounds like my problem. However, the E3210 is an in-tank pump that won't physically mount like the external Datsun pump without modifications. I'd like to avoid all the mods to go in-tank if its possible. I didn't find anything in the FAQs, so what have you guys found as the best/right pump for this combination? Thanks, Steve And for those of you that keep requesting pictures, I will be posting them soon for anyone interested in this combination, my suspension mods, my Vintage Air AC install, or anything else of interest.

Hello All, I had a frightening moment with my '77 280Z after replacing old fuel hoses. I started it up and one of the injectors with the factory crimped hoses tore and started spraying fuel down on my headers. Luckily there was no fire and I had an extinguisher in hand. What has me really disturbed about this is that I purchased these injectors last year and they've only been running on the car for a total of maybe 2 hours at most. My fuel pressure doesn't exceed 40psi (have a mounted gauge). I replaced the hose on this injector, which is described in other threads on this topic. I don't have a concern with replacing the other 5 injector hoses, but I would rather trust that the manufacturer of the injectors knew what they were doing and there's something I should be aware of to prevent risk of a future fire. The tear happened just below the hose clamp (flat banded clamp). The clamp was pretty tight but didn't seem extreme. When looking at the 5 remaining hoses, they appear to get skinny in the middle like they're under serious vacuum. The outsides look in perfect shape but I'm a little concerned with the shape is all. I purchased all injectors at the same time so I can assume I would experience this issue at any point with the others. Has anyone else had a similar experience to this? I would typically replace and test on most things but I don't want to repeat my last experience. Thanks

Stock EFI system on an L28. I have swapped to a gm style HEI module. New Harness. The injectors will not fire, pin 10 on ecu is seeing 12v, all injectors have 12v on both pins reference to ground, and the car runs fine with starter fluid. I know i have spark, the tach wire is wired from ECU pin 1 to the negative terminal on the coil. Do i need to wire in a dropping resistor for the ecu to see the pulse? Does the car need to see a start signal to begin firing the injectors? Does the ecu need to see 12v through the air valve from the fuel pump? any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have an L24 with SU carbs. I've had this idea of the ability to go from carbs to EFI and back relatively easily.This would require a bolt on replacement for the carbs. I'd still be using the stock intake runners and air cleaner. I'd also try to keep the TBs the same length as the carbs. This is what I've doodled so far. This uses a compact EV14 injector: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Some fuel rail I found the dimensions of: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/large/dash8wire.jpg And the flange patterns from the SUs. This drawing lacks stuff still. The idle air intake, I figure, could go on the sides of the TBs facing each other and be plumbed to a T where one adjustment screw handles both the TBs idle. The placement of the injector is arbitrary. I just plopped it there and it worked out that the fuel rail doesn't interfere with the stock air cleaner (orange line). It's angle's just 45*. I'm not sure how evenly the fuel would be distributed down the 3 asymmetrical runners with this set up. Probably over thinking that though. The placement of the throttle plate is arbitrary as well. I've merely spaced it 1 cm from the flange to provide room for bolting on the air cleaner. These should retain most of the stock throttle linkage too. This drawing also assumes that both the front and rear of the SUs are 44 mm inside diameter and coaxial. I'm not sure about this. I know next to nothing about injectors. According to some megasquirt literature though; If I want the capability to fuel around 150 HP then I need 2 injectors around 500 cc/min each. Any reasons why this might not be feasible?

hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall

Hi Guys, I'm still pretty new to the forum but I wanted to start contributing right away! I just bought a 1975 280z that had been sitting for over 10 years and was the victim of seized fuel injectors. There are a couple of options on how to handle the situation, one would be to replace the old injectors with new ones. Thats a solid choice but oem injectors will set you back $350+. Another option would be to buy refurbished injectors. Again, that's a fine option, but since fuel injectors are sealed units that cannot be opened, all you are really buying are old injectors that have been cleaned. Your next choice is to send the injectors off to a fuel injector cleaning service that specializes in cleaning electronic fuel injectors. If you choose that route I'd suggest www.witchhunter.com as they are a well known and good company. A full service cleaning is going to set you back about $180 but has the added benefit of having the injectors flow tested. Lastly, you have the option to clean them yourself. The process I came up with worked great for me and only cost about $20 and as such I will be discussing my method for the remainder of this article. Before we start, a disclaimer: *** The procedure Outlined below was developed by myself to clean my bosch L-jetronic fuel injectors. I am not a professional, nor do I claim to be. By performing any of the actions described in this article you risk damage to your fuel injectors that could render them inoperable. This process may be used on any injector however take special note of the correct voltage used to drive your specific fuel injectors.***** The Injector: How & Why Let's take a brief look at how the injector works and why it may end up seized shut. First things first, take a look at this cutaway view of an injector: (photo credit Gordon from witchhunter.com) The points we are most concerned with from this photo are numbered 4, 5, and 6. Number 4 is the coil. It is a coil of wire that wraps around the inside of the injector body. When current is sent through this coil, it creates and electromagnetic field, basically, it's an electromagnet. Number 5 is the pintle. Think of it as the rubber stopper that plugs the drain in your bathtub. It is a tiny piece of metal that for al intensive purposes "stops up" the fuel injector and keeps fuel from flowing through it. Numer 6 is the pintle seat. Think of this as the drain in your tub. It is the piece of metal with a hole in it that the pintle stops up. When the coil is energized, it becomes magnetized. This magnetic force pulls the pintle up away from the pintle seat allowing fuel to pass through the injector. When a car sits for a long time, the fuel in the injector degrades and separates releasing gums and varnish. As time passes and the fuel evaporates and degrades, whats's left is the gummy mess that clogs up the injector. When dry, it effectively "glues" the pintle the the pintle seat. Cleaning: Now that we know the basics of how an injector works and why they get clogged or seized, lets look at what we need to do to clean them. The basic strategy is the same whether clogged or seized but the approach is going to be a little bit different. The first thing we have to do is devise a way to pulse the injector out of the car. The next thing we will need to do will be to get the injector operable meaning we need to make sure the pintle is moving up off of its seat. This step won't be necessary if the injector is just clogged. Then we will want to do the actual cleaning, and finally we will replace the feed hoses and O-rings before reassembling the unit. Supplies Here is what you are going to need. 2 bottles of 91% isopropyl alcohol 1 small eye dropper 3 tupperware containers - 2 must be able to hold all 6 injectors and the cold start valve fully submersed in alcohol. The third needs to be slightly longer so that you can have good access to the injector while submerged. 2 lead wires with alligator clips electrical tape 6 to 8 D batteries Paper Towel (preferably shop towels) or a cloth Piece of cardboard or other suitable work surface Procedure: ​Now that you have all of your supplies it's time to get to work. Obviously the first thing you will need to do is remove the injectors from the motor. if you do not know how to do this I highly recommend you get yourself a factory service manual. There are also numerous how-to's online. Once you have everything together, find a comfortable place to work, I laid a piece of cardboard over the kitchen table and worked there but anywhere reasonable clean will do. Place all 7 injectors in one of the containers and fully submerse them in alcohol. Let them soak for about an hour, longer being better. Now take your other container and fill it with enough alcohol to submerse all 7 injectors (Don't forget your cold start valve!) and the other longer container with about 2 inches of alcohol. Place these to the side. the long one will be our working bath and the other one will be our clean bath for the injectors to continue to soak after we've worked on them. In order to clean the injectors, we must cycle them open and closed. To do this we will need to come up with a way to run a current through the injector. In our cars, the 12 volt current from the battery is routed through a dropping resistor that drops the voltage from 12v to 3.5v before it is passed through the fuel injector. So, ideally what we want is a 3.5v current that we can turn on and off to pass through the injectors. You could come with a whole bunch of different ways to do this depending on how fancy you wanted to get but my method is simple and easy and ver effective. If you did not know, a standard D battery output is 1.5v (actually AA, AAA, C, and D batteries all output 1.5v). By combining 2 D batteries in series ( + to -), the output voltage is bumped to 3v. This 3v current is very close to the 3.5v used in the vehicle so it will be perfect for replicating the pulse the injectors get in the car. So, what you will want to do is take two of your D batteries and tape them together so that the + side of one battery is touching the - side of the other. Now, grab your wires with the alligator clips and tape on end of one of the wires to the + one of your battery pack you just made. At this point you are ready to grab one of your injectors out of the alcohol bath and start disassembling and cleaning the exterior. Remove the bottom O-ring as well as the aluminum spacer on the main body. once the spacer is off you can remove the thin metal piece that sits right on top of it. Now you can work the thicker rubber O-ring off the main body of the injector and go to town cleaning. I used a toothbrush and some paper towel to get the outside decently clean. This isn't crucial but it will help to keep your cleaning bath free of contaminates. After you are happy with the cleanliness of the injector go ahead and attach the other end of the wire to one of the pins coming out of the injector plug. It doesn't matter which one since the magnetic field will be the same regardless of which direction the current is flowing. Go ahead and wrap the exposed metal of the alligator clip (if there is any) with some electrical tape to minimize the chances of the negative clip contacting it when she attach it. Speaking of the negative clip, go ahead and grab your other wire and attach one one to the other pin coming from the injector plug. What you should have now is as follows, -[ ]+-[ ]+ ----------Injector--------- in case mtg diagram doesn't make sense, you will have your two batteries taped together with one end of a wire taped to the positive side and the other end of that wire attached to one of the pins on the injector. From the other pin on the injector you should have another wire which is not currently attached to anything. Now if your car has been sitting for years, it is not uncommon for the injectors to be seized shut. If this is the case they will not open and will not spray any fuel. After all, that is the reason for this article. It is important that you remember that the injector is an electromagnet pulling the pintle off the seat with magnetic force. If the injector is seized then what that means, is that the magnetic force pulling up on the pintle is not great enough to overcome the force of the gunk holding the pintle down. So how can we free it up? First we need to see if that long soak in alcohol was enough to free it up. So go ahead and touch the free end of the cable coming off the injector to the negative end of your battery pack. It is good practice not to keep the current flowing throughout the injector for too long. If you hold it too long you can actually burn up the coil inside the injector and then you will have to replace it. Since we are only using 3V that isn't likely but better safe than sorry. If you are lucky, you will hear a click come from the injector meaning that the injector did actually open up. However, if you are like me, the injector will still be stuck. So what to do? Well, if you have ever taken physics then you may know what to do, but for those who haven't or are a bit rusty, heres a little physics lesson. Voltage is the potential difference across two points. Current is the rate at which the electric current flows. Resistance is the resistance to the flow of electricity. Voltage, current, and resistance are all directly related by the formula V = IR. V is voltage measured in volts, I is current measured in amps, and R is resistance measured in ohms. How does this apply to an injector? Well, the resistance of your injector is constant and does not change (unless you have a faulty injector that should be replaced) the variable that we can control here is the voltage that we send through the injector. By increasing the voltage, we are also increasing the current that the injector draws. That same formula above can be rewritten as I = V/R which mean that the current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance. The resistance of an injector varies based on the application but lets assume here that our injectors resistance is 10 ohms. We just attempted to actuate the injector with a 3v pulse so let's calculate how much current that was. 3 volts divided by 10 ohms comes to 0.3 amps of current. Now, we know that 0.3 amps of current is not enough to break our injector free so how do we increase that? well, as we've learned we need to increase the voltage. to do this you need to simply tape one more battery in line with the other two making sure to put the + end of the battery to the - end of the other. this will increase the voltage by 1.5v for a total of 4.5v. This will bump our current to 0.45 amps. now try tapping the negative lead to the negative end of the battery and listen for a click. Tap it 5 or 10 times and if you still don't hear a click add another battery to the line and try again. Keep adding batteries one at the time until you get the injector to unstick. You can add up to 8 batteries in a row without risk of damaging the injector. The faster but less optimal way to do this would be to use a 12v car battery right from the get go to unstick the injector. this would be fine as long as you use short pulses of energy and do not hold leads on the battery for too long. At this point you should have gotten the injector to unstick and are ready to start cleaning it. If not, you will have to seek out another option for fixing your stuck injectors. The actual process of cleaning the injector is easier if you have a buddy to pulse the injector for you while you do the cleaning. So, assuming you do, have them start pulsing the injector while you force alcohol throughout he top with the eye dropper. do this for a few minutes and then do the same thing but this time forcing the alcohol though the nozzle end of the injector. During the process you should see dirty gunky fluid come out of the injector. repeat this until the fluid that comes out is clean and clear. Do note that it will only drip out and won't be any sort of stream of flowing. After you are done cleaning, place the injector in the clean alcohol bath until you are done with the remaining injectors. Repeat the above process for all 6 injectors including the cold start valve. The cold start valve was designed to run off of 7 to 12 volts so it may take a few batteries taped together before it will click open. Congratulations! You have successfully cleaned your injectors! Now we need to get the old hoses off and replace them as well as the O-rings. If your injectors are like mine, then you have hoses held on by small metal cups. I tried cutting the hose with a blade and pulling it off, but I could not for the life of me get the hoses off so I decided I would have to cut the metal cups. For this you'll ned a dremel and a razor blade along with a pair of pliers. This is the bit we will be grinding off. Before trying this, be sure to try and just pull off the hoses after you make a slit down the side with a blade. It may work for you and will save a big hassle! Hold the injector with the pliers and carefully start grinding away the metal cup. when you think you've ground off enough try and peel it away as best you can to expose the hose underneath. Now cut down the side of the hose to the base with the razor blade. Get your pliers and start pulling the hose off the injector. It will be really difficult but just keep twisting and pulling until you get it off. Once the hose is off, the cup will just slide right off. Replace the hoses with new fuel injection hose and clamps. Please be sure to use fuel injection hose and not normal fuel line. Now we can replace the O- rings and slide the thin metal piece and aluminum spacer back on. It helps to lube up the o-rings with a dab of motor oil! Now you are ready to reassemble everything and fire it up! If the motor has been sitting it would probably be a good idea to replace all the rubber fuel hose and clamps as well as the fuel filter and spark plugs! Thank you for checking out my writeup! I hope it helps you out!! -Blake

I was almost ready to deliver a 1976 280Z Restomod to my daughter 6 months late after her 16th Birthday! We started the car up and went to pull it into the shop for final buffing/touchups and low behold the engine died and would not restart. Needless to say my daughter was heartbroken. The car would crank but not start. If the engine was cold, it would start, run one minute or less and then die and not restart for hours. At first check my plugs were all soaked with fuel so we thought "flooded" clean the plugs, suck out the cylinders dry and and try again. No luck, no start. Pulled the plugs and checked again, dry as a bone no fuel in cylinders. Next, even though the fuel pressure measured correct before and after the fuel rail, we replaced the fuel pressure regulator just in case and still not the solution. Started intense troubleshooting with the EFI Bible and FSM. Replaced the MAS after cleaning the contacts and still nothing! Cranks just fine when cold and would start and run for a minute and then die and refuse to start until cold again. Checked the throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, water temp sensor, cold start valve, and thermotime, nothing! Still would start when cold most of the time but die after less than a minute. Double and triple checked the injectors listening to ensure the injectors continued to fire after the engine started and we weren't losing pulse, still no good. So what does the bible say after all these checks, replace the ECU! Luckily, I thought I already have a spare ECU for my 1977 FI 280Z. Guess what, doesn't work, wrong part number. Here's where ECU's get tricky I found out. The 1975-76 Auto Trans FI models use ECU A11-600, the 1977-78 Auto Trans FI models use A11-601. My 1976 280Z 4-Speed Coupe uses the A11-601 ECU! So off to Ebay to find an ECU to match A11-600 in my daughters car. Two weeks later it arrives and we plug it in and walla, nothing... It starts and runs less than a minute and dies and won't restart! Totally frustrated and confused we start the troubleshooting process again re-checking every pin on the ECU harness and we suddenly notice that Pin 1 is giving us varying voltages of .3 to 12.7 volts. At 12.7 volts the engines starts, runs less than a minute and dies, when we re-check the Pin 1 voltage and try to restart the engine we get .3 - .7 volts. Bingo! Finally we have a negative reading we can start tracing! So where does Pin 1 on the ECU connect to? The Ignition Input Circuit! We started tracing the wiring harness for the Ignition system around the engine compartment and back under the dashboard and find terminal corrosion on the connectors under the passenger side glove box. Cleaned the terminals and connectors and applied a generous dose a electolytic grease and instant start and run! Thank goodness for excellant mechanics and friends who spent 2 weeks with me crawling under the dashboard and hood testing and retesting component after component to find the issue and resolve it! I hope this might help someone else in the future. If your Pin 1 on the ECU measures anything less than 12 volts, you have an electircal problem not mechanical! You must have 12 volts on this pin for the car to start and run, if the votage drops after it starts and dies check the ignition circuit connections under the glovebox. Clean and grease those terminals because the corrosion heats up after ignition and interrupts the connection of power to your injectors. Good luck!

I am currently in the market to start sourcing parts for a turbo swap into my S30. I am interested in anything you may have to get me to my goal, which is as of right now, to run a stock l28et in my 240z. The more complete of a swap the better for me. Let me know what you've got