josh817

I don't know what the term wet system means. :/ I just said intercooler because there was someone on here with a green z that was supercharged and he ran into detonation problems or something? He thought maybe it was due to the heat of the intake charge, especially from the supercharger and the exhaust on the same side.

Yah I realized what I said was goofy out the wazoo. I haven't a clue what the car is worth but I hope they don't rape me.

Oh LOL I talked with the insurance agent and the moment I said the hood was damaged he was like oh... that may change everything... If its extensive enough then you can either have us pay to fix it or or call it a total loss and then we give you the value of the car. And I was like uh yah but that leaves me with... >_> copious amounts of cash... and a car that still runs? He said yes but we don't deal with the money we deal with the claims and getting the car back exactly how it was before. He also said, with some people they may have a scratch all the way down their car and it gets written off because they deem it too expensive to just repair all then panels. I may get lucky, even though I was trying to be legit. Sweet! How much does Kelly Blue Book price a '72 240z @ like a 3-4 condition?

I priced everything out here, no tricks or ****, all legit pricing from MSA. Hood: $450 Airdam: $230 Headlight case: $180 Grill: $230 Total: $1047 I think I'll see what I can do with that, plus the labor to "install and paint" and just buy used good parts. I'll still need to get them painted but I can install everything myself since its really easy and I'd much rather do that than have someone else attempt to do it. So there may be some money left over, we'll just have to see. The dude and the insurance company already called me and we're going to setup a rental car plan sort of thing so I'm not stranded. I'll keep you guys updated, someone here is bound to get backed into or run into the back of someone else so it may be useful.

No 240 though. :[ Headlight buckets, I see fiberglass and then I see some expensive type, I guess thats metal?

Well that sounds cool. There is an expensive but good dude like 10 feet from our shop... I don't think I could get away with having Dad appraise the damage since he's a shop owner. Last thing I need is trouble so keep everything legit. Really what I need to do is order another airdam and get another headlight bucket and hood so that they can get painted by the dudes next door. My Harbor Freight gun is crappy and probably caked with paint and clearcoat or something. Who knows, I bought it as a disposable. How do they price out stuff that isn't made anymore? The headlight buckets aren't made anymore, nor are the grills. Aren't good, nonbent grills expensive too. Blah! I guess we'll see tomorrow when I call them...

Happened yesterday so I don't know whats going to happen but I was parked in a legal spot I wasn't in the car nor was the car running so everything points to his fault his insurance.

It was just an example. I can see an insurance dude being like yah it should bolt right on. Try to talk me into getting a hood with the vents in it or something. You know? Like they go out and price everything themselves, but who knows if their replacement part and/or value is even the proper. I wouldn't mind getting metal buckets, but I want the same airdam and the same non-louvered hood. I don't want them to be like "Oh the bodyshop can fix that" and have them fill it with a ton of bondo or something. I had good rust and bondo free body work on this car, I don't want to screw that up.

Look at it from the good side: I did the body work and paint myself at home and I haven't a clue how to do that stuff the proper way. The fiberglass had a ton of spider cracks in it that I tried to bondo up and everything. With the insurance money I can buy another one, so I start with a new piece and then an actual body shop can paint it. Hell, maybe I'll have some left over money and I can get the car wet sanded and buffed. I don't want to be short changed though. Have some insurance noob say "oh yah we can replace the hood" and finds me some old rusty 280 hood rather than the proper 240 or something.

If you built the motor for a forced induction purpose, as in like more than 6psi, then it would be best to intercool it. The problem with the Triumph guys is that they take the motor that they have and then slap a supercharger onto it. You don't get anything with 9:1 compression and 6psi compared to 7.5:1 or 8:1 and 15psi.

Went to the track. Staurday night I was helping someone adjust their valves. I hear a crash and I see my car rocking back and forth. I walk over and I see the dudes trailer hitch in my fiber glass type 3 airdam. It was held on by two braces on the bottom and then 5 bolts in each top corner, holding it onto the fiberglass headlight buckets. Airdamn = crushed One headlight bucket = crushed Hood = folded down in the front Grill = bent in So basically that sucks. Now I get to drive a rental car to school or something and hopefully the insurance company won't short change me? Anyone here have an accident? Do insurance companies short change us old Z car drivers on a regular basis? Hours before my baby got crushed: I'll have videos later. I'm depressed now. Such a beautiful shot. Atleast none of my mechanicals broke.

I'll have to check and see.

I need one Weber 45mm carb that doesn't need rebuilding preferably and that has the velocity stacks which BOLT DOWN rather than the type that have 2 tabs holding them down. Also if its jetted for a Z that would be great too. Tab type that I don't want: Also, I'd like to see if anyone has a wideband and its cable (the lc-1 is that little rectangle thing on the cable, that sort of thing), 280z tach (the type thats voltage kickback and not current kickback like a 240 tach), and a 4.38 rear end/gear set. I currently have a r180 rear end but I'll swap in a r200 if I need to. This stuff is all long term as I get money throughout the year so I'm just inquiring.

Yah, I don't really see the point in running top end lube, it just smells good.

The castor oil and marvel mystery oil in the fuel is for top end lubrication. On British cars they even make a kit thats like a 1 quart reservoir with a hose from it. At the end of the hose is a needle so a bunch of oil doesn't spew out. Then you fit the needle to a spot on the manifold where it draws vacuum. The vacuum sucks the oil in so you don't have to add it to your fuel. When it burns it has like a sweet smell to it, I like it. Oh and little model airplane engines and old rotary style airplane engines had castor oil in it too.

I would think that VP111 is doable. There are people running 11:1 on pump gas. Just buy a little and see what the minimum octane your motor will run on and use that, maybe a little more octane to prevent detonation. If I were to run VP111 in my street motor, sure it would work but it takes more BTU's to ignite higher octane, thats why you go with the minimal amount and thats why those octane boosters don't work worth a **** for the ricer kids. Do you run Marvel Mystery Oil or Castor Oil in your fuel by any chance? You should do it just for the smell if you don't already. I love it!

Daughter eh?! Yah, I never actually measured the headers but my eyeballs tell me they're pretty close to the same length. I would think that maybe you can compensate it with two different length dual pipes however if you really wanted to have an equal header, why not chop the collector off and weld on however many inches to each primary so that they are equal? Better than $700 worth of header thats for sure.

I like your pipe arangement ALOT. I read somewhere that for a hot street/ralley L6 they need to merge 50-something inches downstream. Yours seems around there, maybe a bit short, but when I make mine its not like I ahve to copy you exactly. I just like how it merges in general and then heads back out to 2 pipes again.

This is true. When I drive without any filters, its deafening loud. Especially if you're poking around under the hood. The intake noise is ridiculous. I'm running a 3" pipe to a 1 chamber flow master 3" in/out and its fine when cruising below 3000RPM but once you get higher things get crazy. As with the induction noise, it goes as follows: -Over 3000RPM with anything other than full throttle is loud but not crazy -Over 3000RPM wide open throttle, stupid loud. Check out my videos to get a general idea. The camera tends to lower all of its settings when over run with noise. The only way to compare is if someone is talking or shouting, you only see their lips move : http://www.youtube.com/user/josh817

Can't really say since it was my first time. Nothing to compare to. :/

Indeed...

I was talked into it. No homework, why not. I really wanted to see the cars but the weather was nasty.

Ok I agree with you now but not because of rust. New tires are on the back but geez, I was sliding around everywhere. Going 50, gun it, and the wheels spin. Every light, let the clutch out and the idle speed of the motor spins the tires. I take my exit and its on a slightly down hill slope, gentle on the breaks and its like I'm on ice. All this is fun, if no one is around, which is never.

oh geez

Ahhhhh fail. Fine I won't go either cause its raining.