josh817

Yah but we know the Italian names are made up half the time. The guidos in Jersey hang out on the board walk I think. Unfortunately my dad is from Caldwell so he doesn't have any fun stories about guidos, just a lot of fun stories about "the family".

I like the one in the vneck grey shirt because it looks like he's 40 years old yet still wants his to get his mojo on in a hideous way.

I'll just leave this here. Posers of a different breed, same breed that Mag posted.

Yah I know, I'm just being silly not angry.

That would be called a Guido. Be careful.

Guys, this google sketchup thing is busting my balls. 3D stuff on a presumably 2D screen just throws me off.

:icon14::icon14::icon14:

You're missing my point big time. The point is that to some people, engine does matter. One can say well for the money that was put into that motor I could have done a monster v8, but guess what, apparently that guy didn't want to do that, he wanted an L engine. Like I said before, I would never put a V8 or an RB in my 240. Why? because to me, the 240 marks the first of the evolution so I will keep the first pure. "Buy up ten N42's, a tig welder to weld the chambers and spend 5 years developing them" With the point I'm trying to make here is that someone crazier than I am would do that, but then there are some people that say well why do I want to do that, I'll toss in this or that and makes tons of power. When we go into these builds we put ourselves in a group. I wanted to be a Stroker guy, more particular a carb guy. A lot of people want to be turbo guys, and V8 guys, etc. We can't discuss whats more cost effective when we aren't willing to go over to the other group. All my builds are done on a budget, I have no "no budget" build. Because of this, if I wanted something really unique with maximum displacement and such, I could then justify spending over $1000 for a cool crank. When someone says why didn't you go V8 the answer is simple, I wanted a unique L engine, I'm an L engine type of guy. So lets not get into the which is more cost effective discussion. Those threads last pages and pages, and all it is, is a clash between many different views with some people thinking they're right and everyone else is wrong. Now back to the thread topic, yes Volod is right about the head thing. Spend your money on a top notch head. If you have money left, then go with displacement. Whats the maximum displacement? Well lets use process of elimination and say no F54 blocks, I don't know about the LD blocks but seeing how 1 fast z says you can't go past 85mm then probably not that, then you can go with a Kameari crank but I bet at their price you can get an LD28 crank welded up and still spend less or even have a custom crank made for you. When looking for the bigger bore pistons, perhaps you look into getting some small block chevy pistons if you can find the right pin height, diameter, and bore, but since this is no budget crap then call up a Ross or some other place and have a forged set made with whatever specs. Rods, either find some nissan rods that have a center to center length you want, BUT since this is no budget crap then have some forged rods made for you. Although if I'm to be honest, you should pick your rods from the wide selection of datsun/nissan rods, and then adjust the piston pin height to get the compression ratio you want. This way you don't have to have custom everything. Or you can go the other way and buy a set of pistons, and then have a custom set of rods to whatever length you want blah blah blah. I think getting some H, I, X beam rods, whichever is best, and then doing forged pistons is the better idea though.

Damnit, why not just buy Weber body ITB's and use the regular Cannon intake? Its cause I want to be one of those dudes that own something unique. And it would be majorly fun to build and work out all the kinks... until you hit a dead end and then you ditch the project.

Thank you both! Phlebmaster, that write up is very very nice! Now really I have the best of both worlds, carbs or EFI. I hear that the mikuni/motocarbs are way easier to tune however I see they still have 4 jets or so just like a Weber would... I also see one main needle jet like an SU which would be lovely. A customer of ours went to the dyno just to see how much power his motor was making and they take an A/F reading from the tail pipe. He was runnning a triple SU setup and you can see the A/F was a nice and steady curve. Obviously this is due to only messing with a single needle of whatever size unlike a Weber or Mikuni where they are transitioning to different jets so to get a nice flat curve you have to take the time to tune. Easy if you're patient and have a good $1000 set of jets. >_< Although I HATE the wiring that comes with EFI, I'm sure it wouldn't be too bad once its in and taped. The ability to sit down with a laptop and tune (even though I don't understand half that ****) totally outweighs having to buy jets. Derek I will try out that Google tool! Freshman year at UTA starting next week. Maybe I'll be introduced to some cool hitech machines! I don't know if an AE department has that sort of stuff. I would assume ME and AE share a lot.

Excuse the use of Paint... To get you into the jest I will post this first: Yes, motorcycle carbs. But wait! I'm not a total noob suggesting motorcycle/mikuni carbs on an L engine! I had a different intention. Instead of having to cast all your stuff like Derek did, why not gather your supplies which should be relatively simple to find and TIG weld/bolt it together (or I guess you could make it out of steel and MIG?). Examine the super human skills: Ok so we have a regular old air horn, then comes the weird part. Get a cylinder, and then solid rod (we'll refer to this solid rod as a piston). Drill out the runner size through the piston. Now you attach your linkage to the top of the piston. Stock linkage to make things easy. With the arm swing, you can attach one of those adjustable pivot rods that you see on a standard Weber DCOE linkage to the top of the piston. This way, when you want more throttle, the piston is pushed down within the cylinder, and more of the hole is exposed for air to flow through. After it gets through that mess, you come to your runners which have injector mounts on them, like Derek's setup. Now the runner on the injector side will be tapered for that venturi affect. I thought of this with an N/A motor in mind and not forced induction, sorry guys. The book Tuning BL's A-Series Engines by David Vizard shows a chart of several carb combinations and how much they flow. It says that a Dellorto D.H.L.A. 45mm carb with 38mm venturis will flow 245 CFM per barrel. Whats the most we can get an L head to flow? 225ish being generous? With that in mind, it would be best to find a larger air horn, which is popular so you don't go poor. Something 50mm or higher. This 50mm will taper down to atleast 40mm, maybe smaller. Basically aiming for the maximum flow of the head so that there is no restriction. Just remember that your entrance diameter must be matched on the piston hole you drill. The bigger the entrance diameter, the large the piston diameter to accommodate a large hole, the larger the cylinder for the piston, etc. Makes everything bigger essentially. Perhaps its just me but I would imagine that its best for the tapered end to be after the cylinder and before the injector rather than it being on the air horn side. This way the velocity increase is closer to the fuel and the port. Also, to keep everything simple, use the adjustable rod in the linkage to adjust your idle, just thought I'd throw that out there. How to seal off the sliding piston? Like a motorcycle carb maybe, with a diaphragm... However if thats too difficult to do then why not just run a gasket around that top part and have a screw on lid. This is my top view of the cylinder: The dotted portion is an outline of the float and the center black part represents where the rod would go. Then maybe you're asking, how does the hole in the lid for the linkage rod seal off, I envision something like a valve stem seal. Then we have the flange to the head. I guess you guys call it a plenum? Or is that something totally different? The thickness of the flange should match the thickness of your exhaust flange so the ears on the shared studs/bolts actually do their job. Alright, so... if you actually read through all of that... who wants to paypal me some money so I can get started. Haha So now you may be asking, why are you wasting your time drawing and typing this ****? Well, I saw a video of a FIAT motor on a dyno, and the slide carb idea I liked, and I knew that some motorcycle carbs were slide carbs, and then I started thinking, and then my head exploded from the excitement! Yah thats about how it all worked out...

Woa woa woa what are you saying, sir?

Just pay and take care of it. With tickets and stuff, I get bothered by them every night while I'm staring at the ceiling try to fall asleep. Little pestering things that don't go away until I've finally paid. Thats why I'm so eager to pay, and when I do pay, I'm happy and relieved rather than angry.

Oh woops, I guess my avatar needs to go. PS: If you have seen whats been going on over there in the past... 10 minutes, your eyes would melt from your face. Let this be a warning from Snorelax + Pedobear:

>_> there is more than one /b/tard here. Hello fellow users!

Oh jesus lets not get into cost now. These threads where "money isn't an issue" made by someone with less than 50 posts are annoying. You want to be cost effective, get a V8. Simple as that. There are dudes in Japan building 280whp NA motors (who knows what displacement and at what cost). What seems illogical to one person might not be the same for others. Example: I sold all my turbo stuff, msII, eveything to go to a carb'd stroker. If I were to go back and try something else new, I'd try the turbo L engine again but I would never throw in a V8 or an RB into my Z. But why, its more cost effective?! Yah well to me its a '72 240z and so at the least it WILL keep an L engine. If I want to rape something I'll get a 280z/zx or a z31. I won't ever put giant fenders or huge wheels etc on my 240. A 280, yes. :] To say the least, if all these stupid no budget threads are true, they're doing it for the passion of the Z car rather than to tear the asphalt off the road. Sure you may not see it as being worth the amount of labor and money you put in but someone else did:

Kameari makes an 85mm stroke crank for $4000 or something like that. Give or take a couple of thousand. Having one custom made or having an old crank welded up, may be cheaper when those sorts of numbers are floating around.

Still don't see it. Hahah I give up, shower time. Later

Fail, still doesn't work.

Such a thing is blatantly obvious. Care to copy and paste those links? Help a lazy man out?

Perhaps it will just take one of us to figure out the hard way. :] Probably me because I still want to do it.

Yah I see nothing...

Heyooooooo /win! They can extend the ticket of a whopping $217 by 30 days and I get 90 days for defensive driving which leaves me alllll clear. I will do this, but I'll wait until the very day like on the 27th (due the 28th) this way my 30 days starts as late as possible. I am happy again. If I'm to be honest you guys, I don't mind the ticket. It was a lesson learned, I drive calmly now, and I don't spend my money on anything but car and books, not big on saving money just yet. So a hit like this I just see it as "ok lets go get some work done in the shop and that will help Dad and myself". He can always use help, keep the cars flowing. He has a bad habit of taking in a lot of full ground up restorations so we can only take in so many quick turn arounds. :/ Oh and by the way about the tires. I like to keep front and backs the same so I can rotate them, even for on the track. Most the time we take the front tires and throw them on the back, buy 2 new ones and put on the front. Then again our cars (triumphs) are locked rear ends so the rears are gone while the fronts are just fine. And I don't think CVAR allows R compound tires anymore because of how well they work.

This sucks. Its saying an attorney is $30 plus court fees and the ticket fees but like... why would I hire an attorney if they can't get the job done. Why would I pay $30 to have a judge say nope you still pay the ticket and have to do the course. And no offset on them. Once I get money again I have to finish what I started with on the EDIS and then I have the 4 wheel disk brakes. I do hope they will fit under the 14" rims. Not so worried about the rears but the fronts are the vented toyota calipers so its like booooooowaaaa! o_O