josh817

Well, it looks good, and now I want to buy that airbox too! Haha The 5 point strut bar must really stiffen up the car huh?

Where did you get a strut bar like that...? I would like to get a 3 point one as shown above. Nevermind, I'm seeing 2 more points... XD Thats crazy.

I think there was another instance where a 350 blew a motor at 200mph. Harmonic balancer broke off, killed the oil pan on its way out, and then the motor went soon enough.

So... which direction do you fly if you're going from California to Belgium... To New york and then to Belgium maybe?

I'd rather see that instead of sit in the heat watching cars go just as fast

Hey guys, just saw this on some TV show and thought it was way cool. I don't have enough money, nor do I even have the time (CVAR race that weekend!) to participate at all. Basically its a go as fast as you can for 90 miles on an Arizona highway, then they take your time and average speed and place you against others in your class which go by 5mph increments from 95mph to 180mph. http://www.silverstateclassic.com/318-hwy-event-description.htm September 17-20, it'd be really cool to see some video of a Z doing it, and not a stock one! Hopefully someone with money and time will participate so I can be happy? Edit that: Nevada I think

Ehhhhhh even I finished mine within 3 months and I had school! Whip him.

Should I get rid of it? :/ I mean it IS running now so we can all look back on it and laugh right? >_> Right?

Yes I'm thinking the same however I think ignition would help too... If I bring it up to 5 or 6k it feels like all my advance went away, has a hard time revving past there, and will make popping/gun shot noises. I read up that the HEI module craps out around that RPM and stuff so I'm not sure. The thing thats cluing me onto carbs is that it only happens while driving. You can see in the video, I revved it to 7k but I wasn't moving. So if its only a problem under load, perhaps its just getting really lean around there. I'll still do my ignition and brakes and maybe after that if I have some extra cash I will purchase a wideband like I originally intended to do. Megajolt has a 0-5v input and produces logs of the timing, rpm, tps/map, etc. So basically I can have a log with my rpm, tps, advance, and wideband! Saves me the money of buying a gauge. Only problem is that these widebands don't depreciate value... On ebay they sell used lc-1 setups for like $20 less than a new one so I have to be prepared to drop $180. Really not that much but with college and still much more to go on this car, I'm really pinching my cheeks on this one... If I had my way I would have 44mm Mikunis. I can get used/rebuild ones for about $1200 and resell these 40mm Webers. I won't do that until after college though I think. Rebuild the entire motor when I have a well paid job (hopefully). I'll keep my polished rods but I want ARP rod bolts, professionally ported head, bigger carbs, etc. A turbo is a lingering thought but I can't stand the wiring task. I WOULD say supercharge just because its so unique, but I don't like having boost all the time, nor does my wallet with gas.

Oh god just noticed that. Now I feel like an ass. >_< Eh his motor is running though.

He said it runs great in his last post, thats why I'm just laying this all out. I wouldn't do it if he was still having problems, thats just mean!

Haha, I can't stop watching your video! Its just too funny for some reason. She doesn't sound 14. Tim, I think you're lying to me.

I like whatever works. I lurked around in the exhaust section on here and you guys were saying a properly tuned 6-3-2 header that goes into a 3" collector/pipe yields good power. I wanted to do dual 2.25" pipes but I didn't have the money and wanted the best scavenging effect. However, I think the primaries on this header are way too short (26") rather than the 36" and the book says have a pipe atleast 5-something inches long... So who knows. Panty hose should be less restrictive than anything else I would think. But you saw I needed to change them out anyways so I'll take them off. I've been waiting on a member to complete an air box and he said he would sell it to me for only the cost of the aluminum but he has disappeared so I guess I'll just get some K&N's. I have the type of belt thats grooved on one side, like a V-belt or something. I had this weird problem where the car wouldn't rev past 3000RPM on certain days. It sounded like a rev limiter hit or something. Thats what initially got me started on my EDIS 6 setup, but on a trip down to Texas World Speedway I did my usual checks before we left and I noticed I could turn the alternator with my hand even when the belt was on. I tightened it up and the RPM problem was gone. Apparently the belts stretch after a couple thousand miles. At that time I was hearing a squeaky noise too and I thought it was my cam biting the dust but it was the belt, so thats why I think it needs to be tightened again. Anyways, 2nd video is of the motor too!

Yah its something with the accelerator pumps I think. Its been discussed in the Weber sticky but I haven't messed with my carbs really. Have a box of jets but no o2 sensor or money to further tune. Oh and Chris, the site is all different from last time I've seen it. The Events section doesn't show upcoming things. :/ The blip happens only if you try to goose it with a lot of throttle. Like I said in the video, if you goose it slowly its fine, but say if I floor it, it chokes like that. Real pain in the ass if you stall out at a light and you have to floor it to get going because it will do that but when it gets out of its dead zone you are blitzkrieg across the intersection. Haha Edit: You can hear the same thing on the maroon Z with the video angle from behind the car I'm thinking maybe I can play with the timing when I get my EDIS 6 in. I'll be using Megajolt with the TPS rather than MAP so maybe I can advance the timing when the throttle is opened up at lower RPM or something. I don't know just yet.

I need a dyno day. My birthday/Christmas session was a dyno day funded by Dad but I think he has long forgotten about that...

Ehhhh here you go. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlcE2veSuv4 2 different videos for 2 different places. Sorry about that.

Sorry for being a butt to you. My very first post was a dumb one asking the differences between the l28 and l28et blocks... It was sent to the shed and that was lesson learned. Anyways, even without looking in the stickies, those two links should provide some basic information. If you choose the L28 crank it will tell you the stroke of it, same for the diameter of several different pistons, etc. They're good tools to figure deck height, compression ratios, and other engine measurements that need calculating but you need to go ahead and check everything once you get your parts in. For my build, I wasn't too focused on the deck height sort of thing but more on compression ratios, however if I were you I would still do a "pre-build". Basically assemble everything and make sure all is well, then disassemble and check everything over, then do your final build. I found a few minor mistakes in my pre-build! Good luck.

Hah my keen senses told me a female was around. :] Only 4 years off! Perfect! I'm kidding, but you had a disappointed face for a pop. I don't understand. I had water spewing out of my thermostat first start and everyone screamed at me. Oh and I didn't prime the oil pump we didn't have oil pressure at first. All lessons learned! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcN9bIYFPgU

I don't see the problem? It popped, keep going. And I like your rat tail mullet. :] Oh and your sister/girlfriend/mom, has a hot voice. >_>

You need to use the search function dude. This information is more than readily available and being new doesn't exempt you from being torched. The answer is, the 260 crank is the same as a 280. To go from 2.4 to 2.6 they stroked it and from 2.6 to 2.8 they bored it. Use: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/calcs/engine%20builder/index.html and http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ You don't need to be spoon fed. There are stickies in every section of the forum which contain the major information like dimensions, weights, sizes, head and block differences, etc. I believe this "Nissan 6 cylinder" section has many of those, go look! You had to scroll through them just to post this bro.

Mmmm I have to talk to Wayne, a member on here. He offered to show me around UTA's FSAE facilities. :]

I think I'm missing out on something.

Very true

Aren't those like you guys said the euro or JDM whatever tail lights due to the amber turn signal? Mine has two reds with a white reverse. I found a parts car here and the guy doesn't know about how a set of good tail lights sell for a decent amount of money. Resell time! Theres another dude who was nice to me and said he'd give me some door panels for $50! Won't be reselling his stuff though, thats not nice.

I saw a Mexican Nascar race online. Apparently they have it too! Whats funny is that they show the drivers name with their countries flag, and its all Mexico's flag. Its like... duh... I crack up when they go to road courses because they all scramble trying to make both left and right hand turns. Don't Nascar rules call for a 3000lb weight requirement too or am I just dreaming?