josh817

Yah I think I may need to get an old 4 speed that us Z guys sell for scrap metal and take the bell housing. XD 200 hp out of a U20? How do you achieve this when you can't really increase displacement, the only real thing is some major port work, good intake/exhaust, and a cam. Well damn if I put it that way then all of our motors are "that simple" >_> I'm just trying to get myself out of having to rebuild a U20 because I'm so unfimilar with it and it seems like the technology in it doesn't match up with the L motors. :[

So what if we went with the Chevron Delo and some ZDDP. Such think as TOO MUCH zinc? I'm all worried now as I have the same mileage and a Schneider .495" 290º cam and last time the valve cover was off I was paranoid but when I ran a feeler gauge over the lobe it didn't catch on any nooks or crannies.. Still, a good oil change would be great for my baby. Also if I were in your situation and the rockers were ok I would just get them cleaned up and buy a new cam/have one reground. Only because cams by themselves are what? under $200 I think? If you already have the hot springs and such there is no point on buying the entire cam kit unless you buy from MSA. They won't guarantee anything unless you buy the kit so everything is properly setup for that particular cam as far as spring rates go and such.

I'm wanting to throw in an L20B but now my main problem is, will it mate up with the 5 speed. I don't care if the 5 speed gets torn up from too much power or something. He wanted power, I will give him power, and if the tranny doesn't hold up well, replace it. I also need to know if this head can be used on an L20B block and if not, can I take the big cam and use it atleast? I'm having to talk to Dad about no more telling people set prices. Takes me 8 or 9 hours to build a motor and I charge $15/hour. Put a percentage of fees on the parts and build a motor for $300 profit. This set cost is ridiculous when things like this happen...

Ah yes.. lovely... I did some reading and saw that they are 2 different things and now I feel like a dumb ass for thinking "Well the L series motors had the same setups, just 2 extra cylinders is the difference but hey look durrrrr this doesn't look like an L series..." Pretty much like asking if an L28 is an RB26. Alright well thanks guys for the help and hey, I guess if anyone is interested in this block, crank, and rods, give me a yell... Admin, care to delete this thread now?

Yah the block reads U20. This is kinda sucking because I have no idea what will fit what now... Was the U20 not a division of the L20B or is the L20B in like the Datsun pickup trucks? Made an account at Ratsun and hopefully I'll get some answers.

I agree with some of the stuff but things like bore and stroke... Should be an 86mm stroke and 85mm bore stock... I mean unless the U20 was a unique casting from Nissan? All my research says L20B but just like our L28's, there are different castings... I agree with the wrist pin size, not sure what to think about the crank journal sizes, and the rod lengths should be 145.9mm... unless like I said the U20 was a unique motor. Also, unless the pin height of the piston was something similar to the one from this motor (42mm+) the compression ratio for those sizes is 7:1. I can't argue with the pictures though... Its clearly obvious that something was different about this motor... It may just be in my best interest to start from scratch so this customer doesn't have a blown motor. These are the numbers I was going off of. We need TonyD in here or something... This is too strange for me...

Perhaps this is the reason why all the lower end bearings are shot... That doesn't seem like enough of a hole for oiling to me. :/ Maybe I'm just crazy. I probably am. I believe on our L6 rods they have big lump things I guess you could say with the oil hole in them, helps sling oil up onto the cylinder wall however when I polished my rods I got rid of the lump but kept the hole open for flow. The hole was probably the same size, maybe a little bit bigger than on this rod.

I'm not sure. I looked for cast marks and didn't find anything but it was a quick look over. It has these wedges on the counterweights:

This setup in here looks to be a hot setup meant for strength too. This rod has standard (non metric, whatever you want to call it) rod bolts that are pretty beefy, bushed small, and over size big end to fit the over sized rod journal on the crank. Its an L20B crank that I can tell from the counter weights and how they have wedges cut out of them for balancing, but the journals are all too big so it seems like maybe they welded them up and polished. I'm weary of my measurements so I want to triple check them but being millimeters off isn't a mistake to me. NOTE: Nissan rod bolts have an oval/half circle head to their rod bolts, these are full circle heads and the bolts are pressed in, with 11/16" nuts. Also note the oil hole at the top. This may have been done if a stock rod was bushed to provide oil to the pin, it doesn't look like it was added though... However if you look closely, you can see on both sides of the rod there were oil holes that looked to be filled in and ground down. My L24 rods from the stroker, in the middle of lightening and polishing. Note the small end shape and the rod bolt heads that are semicircles: I've come up with a different and better plan. Since its a street application and the customer is a police officer, he probably won't want to be doing high speeds rather than having a fun through the turns on a nice day car. With that said, I think I will do the combination of a Z22 crank, KA24 89mm pistons, and L20B rods. The crank is is barely counter weighted plus it is a 92mm stroke rather than 86mm stroke. This should give him an almost 1:1 rod/stroke ratio plus the bigger stroke will open up some torque hopefully. PS: If you can't see the pictures please visit my photobucket. I keep all my Datsun stuff there so maybe you can find useful things as well as the pictures in this thread. Thanks! http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a333/josh817/Customers/Datsun%202000%20Roadster/ EDIT: Does anyone know how to read the number on the rod? What do these numbers mean by any chance to possibly identify what rod this could be. I double checked my measurements and these are in fact 145.9mm. Good thing you double, triple, and I like to make it a habit of quadruple checking everything before buying... Rod bolts are still something with of a standard size. Bolt measures 11mm at the threads and 10.25mm at the non threaded portion. Big-end is measuring a confirmed 55mm and according to the books the rod journals on the crank should be 49.961-49.974mm. You think bearings take up 5mm? I think no.

So can anyone see the pictures?

Nope, connecting rod journals for all cranks and rods are the same from L13 to LZ24. The only center to center lengths Datsun made was 133mm 130.2mm 145.9mm and 152.45mm.

I'm not even your kid and I could have guessed that about you... I thought it was a great movie. So good that I think I will have to force my daddy away from work to go watch it. I don't think he's seen a single movie at the theater since my step brother was born 5 years ago. I don't even think he's ever FINISHED a movie at HOME in 5 years... Hah!

Alright so you guys are going to help me figure out what the hell happened to this motor before my customer bought it. Not only did it run lean/detonate, it also has what seems like a wide variety of ****ed up internals. So this is what happened. I have a new customer, he wants a hot street motor, I said I can build and install in his car for him to drive off when he arrives for $3500. Ok so everyone is happy, I get the motor and tear it down with the intention to rebuild big as a 2.3L, big cam, high comp, headers, etc. motor. I see why it needs a rebuild. One of the cylinders had a problem with firing it appeared and the bearings were shot to hell. Upon further inspection it looks like the little set notch in the bearings had broken off on one. I know if anyone ever heard of an oil change/filter because these bearing look yucky big time. Ok so from my 3.1L motor I had 2 KA24 pistons left. My plan was to bore the block out to 89mm and use a set of the KA24's in there. My dad comes up and checks out the pistons and wow good thing we checked, the pin height on the KA24 is much smaller than the piston from the motor. Like over 4mm smaller. So I pull out the How to Mod your Datsun Motor book and it has all sorts of charts with numbers for all the Datsun motors. This is where things get messed up. I already knew this motor was hot before I did anything to it, it had 88mm bores instead of 85mm, already had a .495" 290º cam, header, cylinders were notched (don't know if thats stock), lightened flywheel, etc. So we know these pistons are 3mm over bore, but hey look the pin height is 41mm rather than 38.1mm. Hmmmmm I said to myself in a sly manner. So then I decided to put the crank back in and one rod with its piston. At TDC the piston is just under/flush with the deck. Well how can this be if its 3mm too tall? So I check the rods. The rod journals should be like 50mm or something like that, these are 52mm... The small end of the rods have bushings too and I didn't think Datsun made them with bushings, I know mine weren't but those were 240 rods. So then I check rod length, they SHOULD be 145.9mm but are they? Hell no, they're like 142mm or some **** like that. So then I think and I tinker and hey, my 18mm socket is kind of loose on the rod bolt, let me get a 17mm socket. Uh oh it doesn't fit, wait a second... whats between 17 and 18mm .... 11/16"... >_< DOAH! I KNEW THOSE LOOKED HUGE! By this time I'm going ape ****, especially when I tried to take the rings off one piston and the oil ring happened to be one piece, never seen that before... To further explore I thought jee these rods fit on the crank, which should have 50mm rod journals. Well that too is messed up and it has 56mm rod journals and the mains were too big also. So now I say ok the crank fits in the block, I check the block and the mains on the block have been align bored too! RAH! I shouted, when will it ever end! You have to understand that the more stuff isn't what it should be, the more I spend to make it right, meaning that $3500 isn't going to be much profit by the end of the day. I need to pick up a Haynes manual for the motor and I can double check the numbers but these seem so far off and so consistently wrong I wouldn't be surprised if whoever built this motor built it from scratch or something and no wonder it broke down. Who knows, maybe the things like rod bolts and larger mains and such were all part of like a racing setup for added strength... Now we guess what happened to the motor and whats inside it... What we know Rods: -142mm, proper center to center length is 145.9mm -11/16" cap nuts -52mm big end, proper is 50mm-ish -Bushed small end Crank: -56mm rod journal, proper is 50mm-ish (I think, may be 51mm) -66mm Main journal, proper should be like 62mm I believe -Fits in block and rods fit on crank Block: -Notched cylinders -Over sized mains -88mm bore -Pistons have a one piece oil ring -.495" 290º cam -Lightened flywheel -Header Pictures are of the car, damaged piston which I'd like to say was detonation because on twin SU's 2 pistons would be raped but only 1 was, damaged rod and main bearing (all them were that bad), notched cylinders, head gasket which leads me to believe it may be stock to notch since the gasket doesn't look cut unless it was made specifically, valve cover, cam, and rods because I liked how beefy they seemed to be I almost wanted my own set.

I have a broken key in my drivers door. makes me mad because locks are 1 key, ignition is another. I think I'll just take the drivers door lock out, have a locksmith fix it and then tumble it to match all the other locks.

Dude... consult Google and the almighty search feature. :[ Its 4:30AM and I'm a grumpy boy...

Is it the twin turbo one you saw because thats 1 Fast Z's car I think. He has pictures and videos of his setup.

Yah my mom told me to stop spending so much and save for college. After some problems she said keep spending until the car is safe so I was like... >_> Alright! Go out and build a scary motor and such.

Yah I was being a big baby, I'm just going to deal with it. :] She doesn't know how to drive standard tranny and quiet frankly I found these Z's surprisingly spacious when mine was delivered a year or two ago. The car just needs some love and she will get use to it. Even if she just comes with me on weekends its fine. Doesn't help either when everyone refers to it as the death mobile. Its been pretty good to me! No loss of brakes or anything vital/crazy like that!

Well today she did show some interest in the How to Mod your Nissan Motor book. >_> Now I'm facing some discouraging news... I was messing with the Z calc. and entered in all my specs, then got to the head gasket. Now I remember that it was giving me 10:1's for compression but in order for that to work on my setup I would need a .2mm head gasket, which I remember was being advertised by Courtesy Nissan (bought the metal one from them)... Well I went back to check and all they have is 91mm x 2mm and 90mm x 1mm and I'm curious if they had a typo that night because if they did then that means with a 2mm head gasket, I have like 9:1 or less compression which make me MAD! Errrrrr! Today is a bad day boys. Yup, now I'm just about furious that I had something like that slip on me. Not a typo on my fault either because I entered that in just about every day until the motor was running... Unless if they really did sell a .2mm thick gasket then yah I'm in the 9/8:1's... well I guess this leave room for a turbo if I ever wanted to now! I'm still really depressed. I wanted 10:1 damnit! Next motor I do suppose. The link to the product doesn't even exist anymore so who knows now... I do see a "product code" in the link though. Perhaps I call up and see what that code is. Looks like I have a similar problem to the redhead. Nothing I can do about it now but to just deal with it... http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11044-E4623&Category_Code=s30_nismo_headgasketL28

Yah I saw the pressure plate however the pedal is rather stiff and it grips well. I don't think it would do well for a turbo motor though... Holds up just fine for me! I'm going to rebuttle that.. I see he has a habit of getting stock pressure plates and spraying them. Mine was obviously cheap spray but I didn't care since you won't see it and since its been working well I guess the true test will be longevity. For $100 and a leaky tranny, I wouldn't have any problem pulling it out to change later on down the road. Others would though, and like I said the turbo dudes, if you're going to dish out the money for a nice 300-400hp motor then I'm sure you will get like an ACT or Center Force clutch...

Care to share, dude?

I've known her for a year or 2. Dating for 2 months.

Us teenagers don't need to get drunk to get crazy... Know what I mean?

Already had a pregnancy scare last year... Turned out to be messed up cycles. The only reason why I'm trying to take things seriously is that I easily did a year and a half with the last girl. I could have gone longer if things didn't get messed up. With college coming soon and a good chance we will be together there too, I need to be good because this may indeed last long... Like years and years... >_> And no fake boobs needed! D cups! :0! hah! Don't you make a comment on that either Woldson...

Well if its anything like the last girl, where I had no money because I needed a motor so if she wanted to go out she had to pay (never liked that but I told her before I dived in it would be rough), then I think she would have a problem with me dropping more money on a car than on her. She doesn't care though. We went bowling and I see couples splitting the cost and I know she gets a little bit of money from her parents to have fun so I'm saying split the cost now. I can't last much longer with $140 leaving me every 2 weeks. The guy who I'm prepping his race cars for is poor yet Dad has me putting hours into it so I said no more to that if he can't pay. Seems kind of obvious! However after seeing my motor and hearing things from Dad I now have a customer with an L20B who wants a hot street motor and he said he'll pay $3500 so there is more to come! As long as I have a good rebound I don't mind dropping a lot of money every once and a while. I think she already knows I dump a lot into the car by seeing the motor and all my spare parts and books... Coming out to be around $7-8k for the entire car after paint. Still doing well. I won't be a butthole though and deprive her. We had a nice winter break and Valentines Day is coming up. I'd like to go to a formal dinner sort of thing so start saving now! Oh by the way, stay tuned on my stroker thread or maybe I'll make another one. Dad got me a dyno day for my birthday/christmas present.