josh817
Members-
Posts
861 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by josh817
-
That Steve guy.... We have a Z in CVAR that I think he did work on if I remember correctly. I went to him to have a ported head checked out as well as a Don Potter cam. Head was used and exhaust ports had some soot in them. He went ape **** on it saying it wasn't even worth looking at and isn't worth a thing. I can't remember if he mentioned wanting to buy some of the stuff but I distinctly remember thinking "did he just say I had a bunch of crap so I'd let it go easily?" I guess that's hearsay? I never spoke to him again but without a doubt he knows some stuff. Jerry was a cool dude. Last I remember though (4 years ago or so) he was chopping cars and shipping them out of country. I thought there was a mention of him clearing shop to close?
-
You can look to see what type you have real fast. You will need a Timesert threaded.... helicoil thing. I forgot the part number but found mine on Amazon many moons ago. Converts from the threads inside the head to the threads of the solid lifter. Install solid lifters real tight. Use solid lifter cam. Vroom
-
This would suggest I'm not a lowly college student fixing to graduate and get hit up with loan payments. Which would be false. I have no need nor desire to have more toys... BUT tools, I could use, and tools are toys that do work, so that's ok.
-
I have been given an old Ninja 250 from a buddy, who received it from a buddy of his. Pratically came in boxes, has been sitting for years, no keys no title. I want to do a VIN check. On a side note, if/when it does show a clear VIN, what should I build out of it? I have no interest in owning a motorcycle. I'd rather just sell it but I'm sure it's worthless. And no, not a gocart. I was thinking along the lines of a 5 (or is it 6?) speed log splitter? Of course, this is assuming the engine isn't locked up.
-
My mother and sister got screwed by mechanic shops that either did it on purpose or had stunods that didn't know what they were doing. Seeing them get charged $70/hr + parts +upcharge, did not please me. I didn't know how to work on modern cars, didn't want to deal with check engine lights and being held hostage when annual inspection came around. School was 2 miles away and my father has a restoration shop so in the event of a break down I could walk to where I needed to go, and had tools to work with. Owned a Honda Civic between the transition from the 240z to the 521. When I sold the Honda I never looked back. I will sacrifice luxury and creature comforts for simplicity. Only now am I starting to compromise between those, as I get annoyed of such a noisy, uncomfortable, girlfriendless, ride in the 521. I wasn't there, but apparently, people drove the old cars of today, everyday, across the country, I don't see why its so unfathomable now, if you have new/replaced parts.
-
1-13/16" which is like.. 46mm, but that is at the throttle plate. At the head it was something less, like 33mm. I had to bore mine open to 39mm. http://www.hilborninjection.com/product.asp?Id=432&CatId=252
-
I rage quit after not having the money and missing the auction all together. I set an alarm for my nap so I could snipe the auction but I slept right through it and I was PISSED. Maybe I fell asleep when it was at 600-700 or maybe it was a different head? I could have sworn I saw dry sump pump, never saw roller rockers and I'm sure someone is drooling over those. Odd that a boat racer would be the one to investigate roller rockers... I'm sure even if I got my hands on some of the equipment I wouldn't know what to do with it anyway. Sorry for the thread hijack.
-
Wish I had more money at the time. I was following all his gear but.... couldn't do it. He had the E31 head that was all welded and ported, dry sump system, header, pistons, etc and they went for pennies on the dollar. I think that head sold for $700. I got the headers for $100 though I'm not sure what the heck to do with them since they're backwards. Have the Hillborn injection system from Don Potter which is the same thing as yours Tony, just straight. Who wound up getting the manifold you showed, Madkaw?
-
The orbital mission will be reviewed next semester; the parameters of said orbit have yet to be discussed as far as altitude and ecentricity. For now we only care about suborbital. After contemplating the vector thing, the trajectory seems to be the answer. Convert this thrust into more potential energy (altitude) rather than kinetic energy. We will have to see the loading on the aircraft during a pull up maneuver to higher climb angles. And yes, everyone must survive... My group is only worried about going up though, not coming back down. That's the aerodynamics problem.
-
I do in fact have that game, though I haven't played it in a while. This question is similar to saying: I travel from point A to point B going 90MPH, flooring it at every green light to get back up to speed, and use 10 gallons of fuel. If I reduce my speed and drive calmly, will I get from A to B with less fuel. This seems obvious, yes. What about when I add weight (greater effect on aircraft of course)? What I'm trying to do is NOT reinvent the wheel. 360000 ft is already sub orbital. Now we have to accomodate 2-4 passengers. I pose the question of logic in an attempt to keep the same engine, same flight path, etc. The orbital requirements will call for more extreme modifications and depending on the orbit parameters will dictate the deltaV required, which is easy to calculate. I think where I'm getting off track is that being a ballistics problem, the aircraft will have a vertical and horizontal vector and although it is going 4150 ft/s, its vertical velocity is 0 ft/s, I would think... Perhaps I just answered my own question... Being in "space" with no aerodynamic forces, even if you pitched the aircraft nose down (it had RCS), you would continue to climb until your vertical velocity is 0 ft/s, upon which you would fall back to Earth. So I guess lets just talk about Kerbal Space Program now............. I have a satellite geosynchronous orbit, a refueling space station in LEO, and a whole bunch of debris/kerbal dudes floating around which I don't have the patience to save. Oh and Tony, max speed was Mach 6.7 but the aircraft started melting. There was a more powerful rocket in developement when the program was shutdown after the death of a pilot.
-
Alright so... senior design project is to reverse engineer the X-15 and then make it carry passengers for a suborbital and orbital mission. Right now we're working on suborbital. I am doing the propulsion systems. We know the aircraft was powered by a liquid fueled rocket which coul be throttled from 30%-100% by varying the flow of hydrogen peroxide to the turbopumps (thus changing the pump speed rather than regulating the fuel flow). We also know that 10% of the thrust was used to overcome drag, 20% to overcome gravity, leaving 70% to accelerate. This directly translates into delta-Velocity. So, for one of their high altitude missions, the X-15 was airlifted to 45000 ft @ 790 ft/s. The rocket ignited and it accelerated for 84.5 seconds until burn out where it was travelling at 5380 ft/s @ 176000 ft. The aircraft continued to climb until it reached ~360000 ft @ 4150 ft/s, and then it began a reentry phase. SO... Knowing this, we would like to remove test equipment and add people. We're looking at a max of ~400 lbs addition. Am I wrong in thinking that we would still be able to achieve 360000 ft using the same engine, despite the additional losses due to overcoming increased gravity (weight)? We're going to look at thrust required vs thrust available due to mach divergence at M=1, but I'm still figuring we have far more power than needed. Part of me says well with 60000 lbs of thrust going 100% throttle for the full burn, they reached 360000 ft. Adding more weight will result in less performance. Reducing thrust will result in less performance. Another part of me says well... we are outside of useable atmosphere (no stall now), so why the hell do we feel the need to go 4150 ft/s at apogee? Instead of wasting fuel towards massive acceleration, can we reduce the throttle (decrease mass flow rate), extend burn time, go slower but reach the same or higher altitude?
-
I don't think PMC on here made mention to coolant port alignment. I remember he noted an oil return by drilling and pipping from the back of the head to the oil pan. He was also running a belt drive for the cams so the entire timing chain area of the L block was plated off and dry from coolant and oil. What do you mean about the transmissions? It doesn't appear to be canted over heavily.
-
Here's a story: When I was younger I would watch my father buy a heap from the junkyard and spend 2-3 years restoring it until it's perfect. He was so meticulous, did suspension swaps that he enjoyed, sunk a lot of money into the projects.... only to drive it for a month and then sell it. He had no interest in driving, he just likes to build stuff. Look at the man hours involved in selecting a head, making a gear drive, a beautiful header, intake, block work, welding, porting, etc.... Do you actually think he selected this method to save time and money and go the shortest route possible? I'm pretty sure he's doing the work for a customer, god forbid he's charging hourly. It's unique, it's fun, what other excuse do you need to do it? If you are looking for an easy build, stuff all your money into an envelope, mail it to someone who does whatever engine you want, and wait. riger280zx, I didn't even think of it like that but I like it! I've always viewed it as the head complements the block.
-
I believe what he is saying is that it is very easy to get an L28 block bored to 3.0L or 3.1L with crank whereas doing so with an RB block is not as straight forward, thus justifying the convenience of taking an RB head and putting it onto an L series block.
-
You don't want the exact amount of PSI, there is no safety margin. That is the pressure it takes to hold it as is. If you sit in it or drop a load? I would want at least 1.5x the capicity so if the car is 2400lbs, plan on a pressure to hold 3600lbs. That's just me. With those AP jacks @ 54mm bore, 4 jacks @ 3600lbs, would be ~255PSI. Any smaller bore or less jacks means pump up that pressure. Just my opinion but investing in a CO2 system and all sorts of gizmos so you can change your pads fast in the garage over the weekend, is a bit over the top. Then again, I'm a cheap bastard.
-
Because L24/26/28 rods have 21mm small end diameters and the SR20 uses 22mm pins. The pin height is different too. If you were to open up the small end of the rods, you would still only have ~5ish to 1 compression. With an LD28 crank you can get ~6.7:1 on L24 rods, ~7.6:1 with an E31 head. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
-
Of course none of this makes sense financially when you can plop in other conversions. I doubt Derek is doing his work to make a great deal of money. A lot of us find this odd joy in designing/building stuff. When I was younger, my father would go through cars like candy. He would buy a heap, spend 2 years restoring it, a month driving it, and then sell. He has no interest in driving them! The cool factor is the main driver too. Right now I'm trying to understand this: In the other pics he had cut a cross section off the front (to even it out with the block) which broke into two oil plugs and a water freeze plug (it appeared). I'm guessing this front plate was RTV'd on to block off the water jacket with those 5 holes remaining open for oil drainage?
-
I hope you have an air compressor that will output 300+PSI, or in the case of those AP jacks, 400+PSI. ( [weight of car] / [# of jacks] ) / [area of piston] = PSI required at bare minimum to stay up I can't think of any shop air supply that goes over 175PSI.
-
Can't tell if that's a joke or not lol Gear drive: Chain drive:
-
I forgot to mention he did the same thing (RB26 head) without the gear drive. I think PMC Peter made a comment about the gear drive just being a hassle but I can't be certain. I thought I remember him saying he had a customer that was actually removing the gear drive in place of a timing chain. I won't go there though... http://spark88.blog.fc2.com/category50-6.html
-
In school we learn that building a database and knowledge base is the first step to design work. Gathering relative information and lessons learned is the key to not reinventing the wheel and repeating mistakes. Let this be your database. You will have to read his blog to build your knowledge base (lessons leaerned). I stumbled over this. I beleive it's RB26 based but I don't think related to the PMC member on here (Peter?). Take a gander, maybe it will stimulate your engineering senses. Work your way up from page 6. I will post some highlights of the head and cam timing. The man does spectacular work, making the head, intake, and headers. Send him some love by visiting his blog. http://spark88.blog.fc2.com/category60-5.html He started out with a prototype which is why you see the timing gears switched to the other side. Limited Japanese translation translation...
-
It should fill back up as soon as your oil pressure is above the spring/air pressure you set the accusump to, so high oil level is only temporary. Like a giant capacitor for oil, used to damp out the oil pressure fluctuations. If you set the accusump to 60PSI, any time your main galley or wherever you have it hooked to, drops below 60PSI, it will start to dump until its empty or until the pressure picks back up above 60PSI. I'm not really sure why I felt the need to post, I'm pretty sure you already knew this along with the others.... Trying to avoid homework. I'm sorry.
-
I bought a Nismo HG from Courtesy for $150 8 years ago that was advertised as 0.6MM thickness if I remember correctly. Was metal layers, no idea if that's considered composite. The only reason I justified $150 was because I heard metal headgaskets could be reused though I don't think I would do that now. Worked fine for the 3-4 years I daily drove the car. No signs of leaking.
-
Think I have something similar on this ported head I picked up a few years ago. Never know if I should shave it to make it flat or leave the dip there... Would be quite a lot of material to be removed if you wanted it flat. I haven't kept track of this thread and how many versions of the E88 there are but I'm pretty sure its normal.
-
*hypothetical* "Bolt on" throttle body carb replacement
josh817 replied to XplosiveLugnut's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
Just throwing this out there but the Nissan NAPS head for the LZ motors has twin spark. If one is so inclined for a project, why not use one set of sparkplugs and make mechanical (or EI) injectors that screw into the other set of spark plug holes. Probably wouldn't give you the best angle or spray but you work with what you have....- 19 replies
-
- fuel injection
- efi
-
(and 7 more)
Tagged with: