josh817

Just came back from the shop. Kind of disappointing. Dad didn't want to give over the engine stand because it has some dudes freshened Detamaso tranny on it which has been there for several months now. It already has been cleaned and serviced and he said the dude is coming to pick it up, a month ago. So basically I had to do my duties on the floor. Took all those horrible things which scavenge the outside of the motor off and jumped into the head. Some surprising things happened then: Head bolts were tighter than hell, had to use a breaker bar with a 3' extension. I thought you only torqued those down to 60-80ftlbs... Same thing happened with the old L24 block but that had collected rust. THEN I went to take the cam sprocket off and its the same way. It was so tight that I broke Dad's Craftsman 19mm socket. Luckily you get a free one if that happens. I'll just leave that for Rick, the machine shop guy before I mess anything else up. So I had to go through the timing cover and thats a whole new escapade of events, being held in with 50 bolds and all... I was also surprised that I didn't have a hole in one of my pistons. I was running lean on 13psi a long time ago, and new I had a compression problems afterwards, plus it burned through oil which is what prompted me to do this. The rings are probably owned though, you could tell it was definitely lean because of the spark plugs being white. NOTES: -If anyone has an idea on how to recognizer if I have solid or hydraulic lifters in my P90A please share. The picture isn't the best unfortunately. -Any idea how to pull the water temperature sensor. I already destroyed mine after it was stuck in the thermostat housing. The little nut came out but the sensor didn't... Hopefully this thread will become popular once I start doing things. Anyone can tear apart a motor so its not that interesting... My goal to finish everything is June 30th. I go to summer camp that day and its about an hours drive so that will be my break in time.

He COULD bend them all, and it would lower the comp from the piston not going up all the ways. More boost baby, yah! If it works like a charm, I think I'd kill myself. >_<

Alright so enough spiritual wisdom talk. Lets get down to business. Any time I do a big improvement, I will post pictures. This is kind of like my diary of events. I will share my progress, business transactions, and business men with you. I want a collection of picture of me with Jose and Bob who do my machine work (not real names), and maybe some video but I only have a camera not a camcorder. Day 1: NOTES: -Satan made wiring, Jesus saved us by creating the wire tuck idea -Tear out wiring anyways -Fix radiator overflow bottle so you don't look poor, because you are -Get more tools, you are very limited -LABEL AND BAG EVERYTHING, you are clumsy -Its ok if your Z Baby is a shelf for now Tomorrow (Friday) I'm going to a swap meet at TMS. One of th biggest in the nation so if you're in North Texas go take a gander. Saturday I will tear down the motor and prepare everything for the machine shop. More pictures will come then.

Well the deed has been set in stone. My initial spendings have been placed and the turbo setup has been sold for the most part (I admit I'll miss it). My plans were to rebuild a dying motor but I only had $700 to work with. Forged pistons, bearings, gasket sets, blah blah blah weren't within my range. I had the MS built but not installed. A guy down in Houston offered to install it and have it tuned in a weekend, and while doing so he could put proper piping and wiring in. Yet another expense. But then I got to thinking about it and here in Keller, Texas V8's are popular, turbo's are popular, but a stroker? Nah. I had bought the Z wanting a unique first car, no Honda Delsol for me, no Corvette, I wanted something that would stand out in the school parking lot, even though I'm not sure that was the brightest idea... So onwards with being unique and having a limited budget! Strokers aren't cheap apparently but I have the luxury of my dad owning a shop. He has just about any tool you can think of and the inventory is still growing even after 20+ years. He's an "exracer", did Triumph endurance racing across the country and then went to strictly Spitfire in a sprint racing club (Corinthian Racing). He has a lot of experience, a lot of knowledge and trick things to do to motors, and he isn't racing anymore as of now (has a 1932 Midget, aka death capsule) so he builds race motors and does restorations for the Triumph guys. Luckily Triumph isn't the most reliable engineering so he keeps himself within only 15 customers I'm betting which always come back to get something else done. Having that said I will learn and perform a lot of the machine work myself and before you snuff out the idea as a bad one I think its important to learn how everything is built and not to rely on others. Plus Dad will be standing over my side to say (yah you FUBR'd that one dude...) My plans: -F54 block bored to 89mm (I hate it being 3.1 but 3.2 with 90mm I read may have potential problems with cylinder walls) -P90 head ported/polished up to the gasket (by me) -KA24E dished pistons -L24 rods that are balanced (by me) I don't have the money to balance the entire rotating assembly but its only a street application so I figured half balanced is fine. Then again, I think balancing is either all or nothing so half doesn't count... -V07 crank -10LB flywheel -MSA Stage IV cam (.495/.290) -6-1 headers -3" exhaust -Choice between .6mm X 91mm, 1mm X 90mm, 2mm X 90mm head gasket -Triple Weber's 40mm I've been told will be fine I thought I was going to need 45's but seeing the price of them I was planning on doing 6 Mikuni bike carbs. Then again... College would be a good option next year rather than drooling over some shiny carbs. -Narrow band to help get me in the general area for carb tuning -MSD This should yield a 10.23:1 CR and I could careless about having to use premium because 10 cents is only ten cents to my teenage mind. This will reveal some of the power that the cam should make. I feel 11-12:1 would be better to open her up but only a street app... and one I would like to last for 5 years or more. I'm looking for power above 3000RPM and no more than 7000RPM. I don't want a smal cam to give me some "Streetable" power. If I need power, I won't be in the lower RPM's anyways but because this is only semi balanced and its a road going car I don't want to linger around 8000 RPM. With the Holset turbo and no tuning, basically just slapped together @ 12psi it threw me back into my seat and made my day while scaring Dad. The dude in Houston said that because of no MS and no tune, I was probably doing in the 200-250HP range, thus my stroker motor needs to have at least that much power to make me cry tears of joy. Same power - wiring/vacuum mess - turbo theology = happy Josh. Now for the stuff that will occur while the car is sitting. I have to set my priorities straight and 1st thing is the motor, 2nd things that will make the car presentable, 3rd things that are cool. Presentables: -Need to fix torn steering rack boots -Mount rear spoiler -Rustoleum paint the car (don't need any feedback on that decission...) -New tires but I have new wheels too so I'll throw those on -Strip out interior and paint truck bed liner in it (we're doing this for my BMW 2002 track car) -While doing the interior fix all lights inside IE: Ebrake light on speedo, stupid little stuff that bugs me -Fix the clunk in the rear before I put a potential HP beast back into it -Broken key in drivers door, 1 key for locks and another for ignition. If any of you dudes know how to pull a broken key in a lock do share rather than me getting a matching lock set. -Fix slight drip from tranny which just pisses me off every time I think I've fixed it. Cool stuff: -Suspension -The list can go on forever, you all know this. I think I'm on the right course. I have my expectations for the motor, what I need to buy, priorities, and spirit to build this thing. The only thing that keeps me going is A: avoid looking at the total cost of everything I put on this car, B: when in the situation of only lent being present in my pockets remember, its only money, and if you don't do it now and you choose to do it in 10 years or something that, the American dollar is going to bend you over and do dirty unmentionable things to you as it will be worth... well.. nothing. Or so it seems. This is more of a learning experience than anything. I've built motors before but only on the sidelines with Dad when I was younger. This is now MY project and the outcome of it will be solely dependent on the quality of MY decisions. Basically, if it kicks ass I will have the pride of saying I did that when I was 17. Even if it doesn't, I will still be prideful. And finally, I am building this car to be as close to track spec as possible while still being legal. As I posted in a previous thread, I am not building this car to enjoy luxuries, I am building it to drive. Damn the A/C, the heater, comfy seats, and being able to hear the radio. If I wanted that stuff I will drive my moms Civic. I'm a true believer on the connection between car and driver but I am like an old 60's F1 racer. I will adjust to the car, not the car to me. If its to loud, get out or get over it. Too hot, shut up and roll your window down even though here in Texas it just makes a convection oven. I get too much slack from people at school saying it needs paint, its loud blah blah blah. You will enjoy you SUV with a DVD player in the back while I will enjoy my well oiled performance man machine.

I have too many rods, you can buy mine if you'd like. 2 sets of 280 rods, 1 set of l24 but those are mine. <3

Redbaron you give some good responses thats all I'm going to say. >_> The guys over at Wolf Creek Racing said they can setup the carb to your application. I don't expect it to be right on (boy that would be luck if they were) butgetting in the general ball park is good. Yah, I realize I will have to sit down every once and a while and do some tuning but to me thats the fun part. I have barely any tools here at home and while I'm taking apart the car getting it ready for the next step I really really enjoy it. Go to bed each night and I'm excited for the next time to work on the car. Its funny how when Dad moved out so did the way our garage looked. It was filled with car parts and restoration things and tools, then it went empty, and now the Z is in there. The begings of the good old days. He's saying I need to start building up my tools now, even if they have to be crappy foreign quality things at least I will have them. So really some tuning doesn't bother me and all those FI people that say carbs are a pain in the ass don't scare me. I only view it as just another bond between driver and car. I'm setting the car up so it will always be like that. Forget the radio, the A/C, the heater, when I get in that car I get in to drive, not to enjoy luxuries. I'll use my moms Honda Civic for that. When all the kids at school say the car is so uncomfortable and this and that, screw them I have a well oiled machine ready to perform.

Yah I read up in there. The only thing which keeps me from asking your current carb "settings" is that each setup is different. This is VERY good news as far as 40's go. I was looking into 45's and well... because of the price I was considering 6 Mikuni bike carbs but being only 17... I can't justify losing a college education over some sexy looking carbs. >_> As for head work... welll I don't even know. My dad does the Triumph race motors in our club and his head porting and polishing jobs go by all this literature he has collected for 20+ years from people like Kas Kasner who pretty much make diaries of their endless budget adventures. I'm still trying to look for porting numbers (how big the intake and exhaust ports should be measured afterwards or maybe how many mm to open up). When Dad showed me an example of how restricted a head could be he pulled one off the shelf and took a gasket out, it was clear that the ports were much smaller than the gasket opening. I'm tempted to do the same method, open the ports up to maybe 1-2mm gap from the gasket but I'm not sure how thats really going to work out. I really have to look at where water jackets are and stuff. I also want maybe a 3 angle or 5 angle valve job and is it a common thing to put even BIGGER valves into a P90 head or what? I know you can only port so much until you have to get bigger valves but like I said I don't know at what point this has to happen. I think my dad is a distributor for Weber not too sure, but I know he is for Moss Motorsport so jetting probably isn't and issue and he has lots of books that I snatched up to read along with gadgets. I think our best tools will be his synchronizer and then the narrow band. We can figure out jetting for summer and then for winter so when the seasons change I just change them out. Texas... its unpredictable until summer hits and everyday is sticky, sucky, and hot. 2 things I would like to ask though: What jetting would you predict for me right now? Noob question, rockers really have to be changed when changing cam? Thought the cam rides on the lash pad which you can take out of the rocker, so why not just change lash pad... My setup: 3.1L F54 block KA24E dished pistons L24 rods V07 crank .6mm X 91mm head gasket (or I can go with 1-2mm X 90mm) P90 ported and polished head 10LB's flywheel .495/.290 cam (stage IV) Headers Port matched intake 10.23:1 compression Couple of illustrations: Right or wrong? Port head out to match head gasket or is that WAY too much? PROBLEM: Charts don't represent large motors and lines aren't linear so you can't project the line really... My holy scripture. It teaches me the moral foundation of life itself. Thanks Redbaron you made my day by saying you don't need 45's. EDIT: And yes they did change their name to Black Dragon. Its very handy to have dealership pricing though. !

Hey dude I had the same problem and I don't have the pockets for Kimeari crap but I was overjoyed when Courtesy Nissan put this up: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11044-E4623&Category_Code=s30_nismo_headgasketL28 Now I'm back on track.

Here's a question for all you guys but I guess mainly Zredbaron. Building a 3.1L stroker, stageIV cam, headers, lightened flywheel, ported and polished P90. Power I'm looking for from 4k-7k RPM. Where to start? I'm seeing 45's but I can barely find them right now and when I do they're expensive. This isn't a race motor, jsut a hot street motor. Could I go with a large choke 40mm carb rather than 45's or will there be considerably less performance? My dad does the Triumph race cars so he has all sorts of gadgets but I'm still putting a narrow band in so it will make it MUCH easier to say "hey we're lean in the higher RPM's"... then again it is narrow band and I have heard/seen many horrors of them. Oh well.

I'm 17, trying to keep fuel consumption low but at 12mpg with ridiculous driving. When I ran 13psi and it spooled up I was doing like... >_> 5 or so... Gas is about $3.19 for 87, add 10-15 cents for premium. That question was meant for both Ezz and Xnke. But hey Ezz I'd really like to discuss the SC with you in a PM. That'd be way cool on my stroker build rather than dishing out $1200 for triples.

Speaking of costs... Doing such a project these days may suck with the American dollar getting weak, and gas prices for your everyday activities. I was talking with my dad about how much it will cost us to race the BMW, thinking fuel would be a big part of it but apparently you can run the whole weekend on about 7 gallons at... >_> $9 a gallon. I was like "well thats not that bad" and he just stared and then reminded me how he use to get twice as much truck time for that price... because 110 octane was $3. XDDDDDDD We can get 87 octane for that now. Lovely. What compression will your LD motor be?

Any aspect there is probably a cheaper route for more power. Really though, this is like a fight between buying a Vette or a Ferrari. The Vette may perform just as well maybe even better than the Ferrari, but honestly, who has a Ferrari on your block? Here in Keller, if you have a Vette you are simply part of the crowd, same goes with the V8 or the turbo conversion. This here though... it isn't joining any group... Not the V8, not the turbo, not the stroker. Genuinely unique and original which is what I like best. Maybe you're a different story.

A lot of people do the 89mm bore. Haven't heard any disasters yet... :/ I just don't know if I should do it on my F54 block or go out and get a N42 block. Besides, I bought 8 pistons (2 sets of 4). >_> Enough thread stealing, lets respect Xnke's thread and keep on topic. Didn't mean for it to get around to this...

Should be fine with 89mm then I think... Good thing I didn't try for 90mm 3.2L though on my F54 block rather than using the N42 block. Meh, I'll still build it, if it dies early on I can still use the internals and just get another block. >_>

I told you I was going to be wrong, just sharing my current thoughts. >_> I always assumed 5 cylinder was the perfect balance but honestly, I have no idea what the "first harmonic level" is. I'll Google it so I don't get the almighty slap in the face of "use the search option before posting". XD EDIT: And please tell me 89mm bore on the l28 for my stroker won't be only a few thousand miles.... PLEASE x_x I can't do rebuilds that often...

Go with the N42 block, steal the l24 crank and slap that ***** in there, go with a huge bore, you have the ultimate revving and hp machine. Forget the torque though, you won't see anything special there... >_> I may in fact do that with my stuff that I have no if I can't get ld28 crank.

Could just get typical 240sx pistons and rings like I did for $130 brand new and dished. Sad thing is that they come in sets of 4, when you need 6 this kind of sucks. Anyways what is your goal for this motor? Just something cool and fun or what? I'm not a master at L-engines or anything but personally I wouldn't let the stroke get to out of hand when compared to the bore unless you are wanting a very torquey motor with lower horsepower numbers. Then again they may even out because didn't the L28 (I'll just use the number I know off the top of my head but I think this for the L24) advertise a 150hp at the crank, and I'm guessing 130ftlb of torque (86mm bore - 79mm stroke). So my thought is that if you inverse these figures and make your stroke bigger but keep the nearly the same bore of 87mm, perhaps it would turn out numbers that have less of a marginal gap like 170hp and 170ftlb or something. I like the high revving high hp motors, big bore - small stroke, but not as crazy as Formula One with like a... 25.4mm stroke and a 97mm bore or something like that. And it shows in their figures off 700hp but only 350ftlb. Then again I'm probably wrong with all that and you probably are building a nice piece. I'm only 17, still scrounging around for money to build a stroker motor; I think both of us know our only saving grace is that we have the equipment to do some of the machine work ourselves... Thats the only way I'm getting away with a $2500 motor. >_> Rod work, head work, building, all by yourself. Shouldn't be too bad if you know what you're doing. Good luck.

Airdam: 1: Buy 1 1/2" X 1/8" flat iron 2: Measure the dimensions of the chassis so you have a piece that matches the hole you're bolting in, the distance between the chassis and the airdam, and how car of a piece you want to go over the airdam lip. This will give you a place to bend and drill your first hole to put a bolt through and into the chassis. 3: Bend the flat iron, this will be custom fit, there are no real angles you just make it work by bending and fitting to check. Its best to use a vice and place your marked spot on the edge of the vice, hammer/push close to the vice to, this will help you make a bend in the spot you want instead of higher up on the bar. 4: Fit your mount onto the chassis, don't drill the other hole just yet. 5: After the mount is in place, drill from the bottom of the fiberglass. As the drill bit comes through it will make a mark on your mount and you can drill the hole where the mark is. This will ensure that your holes line up. 6: Remount your bracket and you should be good to go. :] I haven't made a spoiler one yet because the foam we sprayed is still drying. We did in fact get the foam you use on outside outlets, its called Great Stuff, $6 at Home Depot. We cut some would to squish into the foam. What we plan on doing is getting threaded inserts, drill and thread a hole in the wood, put the inserts in, and then put bolts through the hatch and into the inserts rather than using wood screws. Now there won't be any pressure on the fiberglass, just the wood held in by the foam. I plan to glass on the spoiler to so it looks clean but you have to be careful because the resin will melt foam and you don't want all your foam inside to melt. :] So whatever those holes were for, they were empty and they're on the chassis. The airdam use to wiggle and shake around a little, now it doesn't move at all. I'm very satisfied. The spoiler... I have to see if this will even work this weekend. I hope so, that was $6 for a can of foam.

Well I just ran over a parking bump today. Heard it slide over it so I was like "lets gingerly back up"... Thats a shame, cause there was a piece of rebar stick 1/2" upwards, caught the bottom lip of my airdam, ripped it, and some fiberglass piece out from under my left headlight. I don't know if thats stock fiberglass or if the PO had put it there. Now its ducked taped on, seems to b holding better than the 3 bolts on each side. I didn't like how it was mounted anyways. If I go with that reinforcement bar where should I connect it to on the car?

Oh and remember the cam on the ZXT is for a turbo application. I don't know anything about these motors but I do know that the cam should be shaved for the turbo so maybe you just take the came from your l24 and pop that baby in there, or go with something else. We should build up our Z's and then race with each other and see who had a "better" setup. Then again maybe not because I'm in north Texas... But hey we're budget builders! I'm depending on the money from Christmas and money from selling the turbo stuff. If I get spoiled rotten I should get $800ish from Christmas. Thats what it was last year but everyone gave me the "buy your first car" money which is generally a lot. So theres that, the turbo money and then $7 an hour at Tom Thumb and their horrible hours of 13 a week plus 13% income tax because of course the government needs to get their fair share from 17 year olds too! ;

Hey! I'm in your exact same situation! I have a 240z with a 280zxt motor and a turbo from a Dodge diesel. At this point it has the stock engine mangement but the kid gave me MS v3 or whatever. My problem is that after owning the car for 4 or 5 months and running 12-13psi the motor is starting to say its farewells. The kid gave me the original motor which was a strong running motor when he did the swap but it has collected water (we did pour oil in it to try and save it, haven't opened it up yet though) but anyways I want to go back to an NA motor. My dad has talked me out of anything crazy like stroking it or raping something out because of budget (of a 17 year old). Basically my options are, rebuild l24, get headers, triples (or just the 2 SU's), or rebuild the l28zxt and swap heads since it wouldn't have a turbo anymore, unless the only difference is the cam, I'd like a nice sexy sound paired up with this flow through muffler/cherry bomb glasspack setup my dad had on one of his TR6's. Anyways, I'm just wondering which route to go, I'd like the l28 but then I'd be left with the spare motor that would just rot away and it'd be a 240 with a l28 which doesn't really fancy me but I want a good amount of power because I will miss my 13psi l28 power, most definitely... Anyone a best guess at what numbers I would have been making with the 13psi, I'm very curious. :/ Anyways, Drowz if you want my turbo stuff you can buy it, although I never saw the point of putting a nice setup on a "dinosaur" motor. I have no idea how much everything is worth (bought the car with spare wheels, motor, and Megasquirt for $5000). So if you don't really feel like piecing a bunch of turbo stuff together for one setup I can just sell you mine (intercooler, turbo, engine management etc). Your topic is really helping me with my problem too! Cheers to all of us! Josh

Hm I'm having the same problem. My Z has an l28 zxt motor in it with a huge turbo from a Dodge diesel. I'm pretty sure its done for after the way I've been treating it. The kid who sold me the car though also had the "original" motor that was in it. When he did the swap the original was running and everything so we suspect all it needs is bearings and gaskets blah blah blah. But then here comes the humbugger. Keep the l28zxt motor and just carb it (because I want to get rid of the turbo crap) or take the l24, I'm sure both of them are in around the same condition, just a quick rebuild and it'll be good. OR do I do the l24 and then just mix parts like the l28 head on the l24 block etc. Right now my dad is cheering for the l24 but because I'm going to a carb'd motor, I still want a bite to it. I WAS going to stroke it because I think I have everything except the crank and larger pistons but... I just don't know, too many options.

Yah uh.. problem. I have a rear spoiler but I have no idea how to install this thing. Thats how thick the edge lip is, and the spoiler is hollow so how exactly do you mount it without cracking the fiberglass? I'd hate to say that you just bondo/glass it on...

Tell me about my case after reading all of that. x_X 17 year old with a 72' 240z and a 280zxt motor molested with a 2003 Dodge Cummins turbo running 12psi. Now that I have had my fair share of peeling my remains away from the seats I'd like to bring the car back to a fancy classic approach, which would include the stroker idea with tripple webbers. Bad part: I will miss peeling myself off the seats from the motor I have now. My dad and I have a shop and its all self sustained so we deffinitely have the tools and Dad has been building motors well before I was born plus had me doing tinker work when rebuilding his race car motors starting at... I don't know age 3 or something. Problem though is that he does British cars, old ones, we stay away from electronics. We're getting me back into the racing scene with a BMW 2002 and so its new grounds with German engineering and now the Z is Japanese engineering for us but when it comes down to the motors its all good for us. Cutting to the point. I have a spare l24 motor thats looking rather lonesome in the corner of the garage. I want to make power that will wow me. I don't know how much I'm making with this rape attack under the hood but I like it, except for the electronics. I got myself in way too deep when it comes to turbo equipment and quite frankly I have no idea what I'm doing so for the sake of keeping my daily driver and my wallet I try to keep it on the down low. Is it better to go with an l28 or l24 when stroking. L28 logically seems closer plus it makes a little more hp right off the bat but is this the case when stroking? I have the turbocharger, intercooler, MS v3 and stock 280 engine management to sell for a rebuild budget plus Christmas money and lets just say I get spoiled rotten this year with $1000 from that. Knowing that I have an l24 ready to hit up but aware of the fact that partss for that motor and parts for a l28 are like half'd in some cases I want to lean towards the l28 and just disguise it with the l24 cam cover. Or maybe there is a slight chance I can keep this 280zxt motor and just go from there? I'll need a different cam anyways and after that I can't think of anything that made the zxt different from a normal l28. Basically everything in that motor that was made for the usage of a turbo would be changed out correct? My main problem is, the starting money is Christmas money and whatever I can scrounge from a Tom Thumb job... I can't exactly sell the turbo equipment right now because then I won't have a car unless if I make some tight plan with my mom to use hers for... however long this takes. All I want is some decent power, enjoyable ride (turbo is fun but when you get 7mpg because your teenage instincts say floor it down every road and wet yourself it gets old after a while), and an engine bay that if something went wrong I can actually sit down and figure it out rather than trying to learn electronic stuff. When I informed my dad about me wanting to go to carbs and drop the turbo he was happy but then he lost his comfort when I said I want some respectable power too. He asks why, why do you keep wanting to molest a 240z, the collector of all z's. My answer, it already has the body kit, I have wider wheels for it, its far from being collector rather than classic. I have the spare l24 motor, the l28zxt motor right now, and then nice fuel pumps and everything that feeds the turbo its love juice. I can reuse alot of stuff yes? All in all I think it will be a nice change. Kids at school will boo me for stepping down a notch but like I said I have no idea what I'm doing with this electronics stuff, I'd prefer to have a clean engine bay free of wires, have a nice time riding around still styling picking up the girls, and most of all learn from actually working with the motor. Once I get into/out of college I doubt Dad will be my man for club racing, I have to learn how to do things on my own and I noticed myself getting more independent after I bought the Z. Its kind of funny how when I was little Dad had the 2 car garage all organized, one side for the race car and the other with his collection of tools and motors being rebuilt, then he moved out and now I'm starting to do the same thing. The garage has car parts along the shelves, its all starting to look like it use to be. Even the racing, joining the same club Dad was in except he kinda went backwards from Spitfires to go-karts but had me go the typical route. Anyways thats my situation, sorry about my dysfunction of being way to wordy when I type. Have some pictures while you're at it to perhaps get an idea of what he have to work with, I really think a rebuild with a little stroker spunk won't be that hard and hopefully not to nasty on the pockets. Budget, I'll say I'll start to tear up up $4000-$5000. Oh and I'm new here so give me a nice warm new guy welcome. XD

I have the same issue! The MSA III kit I have is somewhat flimsy in the front. I went under and it has 4 bolts on each side and I think 2 in the front that bolts through the top lip of the kit fiberglass and into the underside of cars body. I'd think this is enough but if enough pressure is applied by hand it can wiggle a bit. What worries me the most is the side skirts, those scrape sometimes the wiggle alot. Not enough to rattle but enough to if you bump into it with your leg you'll hear it. I have a question though... My rear spoiler, its hollow too. How did you guys go about putting that on. I have no idea where to bolt it or anything. I'd hate to think that you just bondo'd it in or something but there is that back panel on the hatch and when you pop it off there are like 2 layers to get through, would take a huge screw. Anyways, someone help me too. I don't want to get my 240 painted and then have pieces falling off. A picture or diagram of where to place bolts/rivets for the side skirts, air dam, and a how to for the rear spoiler would be nice...