Nismo280zEd

so are you trying to say i should buy a new OEM three wire or buy a different 3 wire? -Ed

interesting...

I got the SS clutch cable... but when i tried to install it the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder.. the nut rounded... so... do i leave it as is since i did not break the seal? or does somebody have a way of getn' it off and a solution for a new one? -Ed

MSA's springs only lowered my 2+2 a 1/2"

Mike... you've got mail

anybody looked at the DB7 has shape that more closely resembles the Z might not be to hard to replicate.. easier than the Vantage atleast. look at the lights

i did one when i put my Cd player in Made a custom aluminuim frame to hold the Cd player where ther stock radio went.. then addes sheet metal around it... and covered it in black vinyl. then around the shifter etc i used a piece of wood shaped w/ foam on top.. covered in black vinyl let me know if ya want some pics Ed

you have inspired me.. i'm gonna repaint mine now.

Well we have the L-Jetronic system... the K-Jetronic system used on later porsches years i noted can have the computer repgrogramed and have chips available... and alot more aftermarket is available for them... not to mention the stupid AFM would be gone.. I'd just like to upgrade my EFI but don't want an aftermarket pain in the ass to program unit. so do you think this would work... it's all bosch just like it is now.

ok this thought just occured to me... what keeps us from using a Porsche 911 84-89 engine managment system? Diff injector style? oviously and maf.. but you could use the porsche one and an o2 sensor.. thas not hard.. is there something else i'm overlooking? -ed

Well that would definatley stand out...

Negative.. i mean retard.. when i try to get timing where the manual says it should be the engine knocks at low rpm. And i get a variety of pops actually... if i'm at like 4-5k and put in the clutch... and the rpms drop... no pops maybe a light muffled pop. but if i'm at 4-5k and just letting the revs drop... medium to loud gunshot pop at 3k then around 2-2,200 rpm i get the light muffled pops several of them. Yes i have aftermarket headers and 2 1/2" exhaust into a Magnaflow street series flow through muffler.

I bought a brand new bosch altenator last summer. I have halogen headlights, fog lights, and i run a 400watt amp to a 10" sub, along w/ a Cd player. about a week ago driving in rain... my red warning light came on in the volt meter gauge... then my radio kept cuting out turning off and on... my volts were droping to 12 and below running my wipers, headlights, foglights, and radio (didn't have my sub in at the time). according to my manual... this is because something happend to the voltage regulator in the altenator.. i'm guessing it shorted out w/ the rain or something. Anyway... the point is... has anyone ever taken apart the altenator to replace the brushes or anything? I have a 78 280z so the regulator is inside the altenator... or should i upgrade to the GM conversion thing? -Ed

so is there anyway to keep them functional but not obvious.. i want the logo gone, it makes the car look old. maybe design a louver or something.. that might look cool

Well when i brought my car to Z guy here localally in Houston,TX... he claimed my car was running 40 deg too advanced... Yet somehow i ws get about 24-25mpg on the highway and almost 20 in the city. and pulled like a mother when you stomped on the gas. so i adjusted the timing to where the manual says... and it knocks.. so i advanced it enough to stop knocking but it still has that gargle at around 3k and pops when you let off the gas.

so basically as long as i crack my windows when i eat mexican food... i'm ok with sealing them lol -Ed

sounds pretty sweet.. maybe a base coat of black pearl and a cream or tope color for the writing and celtci strip -Ed

the sherwin williams paint cracked about a week later seemed like the more sun it got the more cracks apeared.. just looked crackled for a while then they got bigger.. now 2 years later a couple finally broke through. And yes.. i use nothing but PPG now as well. But i have been told due to the older type paint underneath i have to either strip to bare metal or use an epoxy sealer over it. In which case.. woudln't clear coat work as a sealer? it's epoxy based.

Mike!!!! your gonna have to reserve me a set! let me check my account and i'll contact you. -Ed

actually when i rebuilt the head i put a new harmonic balancer on it... brand new one... not used. and yes i've confirmed the marks w/ TDC, etc. like i said though even if the marks where wrong... if i retard it anymore it'll knock.. I just want to get ride of the backfiring noise cause w/ my exahust it's loud as hell and anoying

I plan on shaving alot of things of the Z to make it look more modern... one thing i want to shave off are the air holes/ vents where the cirular Z emblem is located on the rear quarter panel. Are these vents essential to the Z? Would fiberglassing over them create a problem? thanx, Ed

Instead of being like everybody else and geting camber plates... i looked into adjustable control arms. These look nice and would definatly correct my camber problem. Has anybody installed them or used them though? http://www.zfracingsuspensions.com/

I had a bad experience w/ Sherwin Williams that led to a cracked paint job due to a laquer base that wasn't epoxy coated (which they conviently lacked telling me). Finally two of the cracks have split threw the clear so it's time to repaint. I don't have a week to dismantle and paint every piece as a did before. This is my daily driver. I live in Texas where it get's very hot and rains every other day just about. I need a primer that i can use that won't absorb the rain. I plan on shavn' the bumper and doing some glass work on the back and i just need something that will protect it till i put the color on. All suggestions are welcome -Ed

since when is building a turbo motor cheaper than building an N/A motor. The price of a new turbo alone would be equal to a 3.1 L stroker motor.

the throttle body spacers your looking at i believe are a different type common on trucks... basically allows more air into the fuel mix, like a carb spacer would.