Nismo280zEd

can't remember the exact name... but it's a big chunk of metal on the top of the intake manifold just to the left of the EGR valve and it has a device that comes out of it like a rod almost that attaches to the throttle linkage. Under vacum it basically holds the linkage from droping to low rpm suddenly. (annoying as crap) -78 280z

ok... i took off just about everything emissions on my car... egr disable, fuel vapr recirculatory pump gone.. also the device that slows the rpms when decelerating is gone. my car runs about 15 deg advanc at idle if i retard it anymore it start to knock... but it will backfire when the rpms coast down.. there is a pop at 2,500, then 2,200 2,100 2,000 (three quick pops not as violent) my friend thinks it's excessive gas firing in the exhaust... in which case is there any way to fix this? -Ed

no offense but y would you put carbs on a fuel injected engine? do you like downgrading technology?

My car had the exact same problem and still does sometimes. some of it has to do with your timing being too advanced but the other 70% i'm willing to bet money on it your fuel pump relay. put a pressure gauge on your car and drive around when you get your problem i bet your lacking pressure.. thas what mine did. hope it helps. Ed

ya kno... the front end does look really good... but what about the ugly duck back end? whose going to address that? just a thought -Ed

something similar happend to me on my 280 it'll be really nice when we finally get an MAF for the car.

if i remember right that wasn't too popular because the actual surface area of the maxima brakes where less than the stock drums. -Ed

if anybody makes an oem styled hatch i'd be very interested in buyn' one Ed

or you could just put a small rivet in it and hold it down. Just a thought

sweet! Thanx guys gonna look incredible 8)

What's the biggest tire you've put on a 7" rim (17x7) according to tire rack a 225 will fit. Will it? or should i play safe w/ a 215? thanks Ed

Yeah i've read a couple articles on this. Warped rotors are a myth... it is caused my uneven wear of excessive pad material sticking to the rotor. Turning the rotors will give you a fresh start... from everything i've read.. best way to "break-in" new brakes is doing... 30mph-5mph w/ normal pressure on the peddle.. DON'T come to a Complete Stop! then do a couple 35-5mph slowdowns etc. you'll start to feel where the pads are seating after a while. Hope that helps. ED

yeah i used to have 205/60/14 BFG's up front and 225/60/14 in back the rear had WAY too much sidewall flex and the tires absolutely suck in the rain. Just switched to 195/60/14 yoko's in the back Much MUch MUCH better tire and it's rated for about 130. I love this tire in the rain.. i can drive with confidence now

Thanks again Ross for the email Time to start lookn' at the 5 lug hubs. -ED

Ross yes i used your calculator to get those numbers but i'm not sure if i did it correctly. off the other thread i started i used the numbers givin. my car had steel wheels OEM so i put in 5" 15mm offset then the other rim put in 7 and 38mm offset cause that is the offset of the new rim. then the distance it said the rim would move IN i used that number for my spacer. thas how i came up with 48mm. I would think that would be the right distance. I just checked it again... if you subtract 38mm fromt the 48mm spacer give you -10 and if you put -10 in as the offset of a 7" wheel it says it stays the same on the inside. So i guess i did the calculations right? Also i do not have coil-overs that will come next paycheck. -Ross maybe you could drop me a line or something? i really need confirmation on if you can make these adaptors (4-5 lug 5x114.3) or not? I'm on a time crunch with the wheel distributor. Thanx a ton! -Ed Sourcandy@hotmail.com

Nobody knows?

I'm interested to hear his results.

lol just because racers don't do it doesn't mean much. there are quite a few race Z's out there on a budget diet. -Ed

ok... i think this is right.. I'm tryn' to maintain the OEM space between rim and strut with these calculations. I have 2 17x7" rims up front with a 38mm offset I calculated a 48mm spacer is what i would need to bring back into OEM spec w/ the strut clearance distance For the back 2 17x8" rims with a 38mm offset I calculated a 61mm spacer is required to bring the rear into OEM spec of strut/wheel clearance. (i have a about a 2- 2 1/2" flare in the back so i know it will bump it out thas what i'm going for.) So all you offset experts do these calculations look correct ? If so i need to call Ross C. thanx, ED

aight yeah i'm getn' 17x8 for my rear but i don't have coil-overs but i'm hopn that with a 61mm spacer it'll push my 17x8" rims w/ a 38mm offset out enough to look nice on the rear -Ed

thanx a ton

This is drivn' me nutz i can't find the original offset for the steelies on my 280z that it came w/ stock. I think i read it was a +25mm which would make it a 5" steel rim? that sound right?

Yeah it was tough to look when he wrecked it... I hope this means the public is takn' note of the little sports car from japan.

Back in january or December i remember readn on a guys site that he was making a Mass Air Flow sensor for the EFI z's and was in trial of prototypes. Anybody heard anything about this as i can't seem to find the website again. Thanx

Well if you have the money to build a full chrom moly chassis go for it! 8) But most of us on here can't afford carbon fiber body panels and chrom moly chassis tubing.