jkh280zx

Thanks OTM for sharing this video. It brings back many memories; not noodling but bank fishing. According to the files on my hard-drive, the following (I believe) is the current record for blue catfish. It was caught in the Mississippi River close to the merger with the Ohio River. Story was posted on the Internet. This fish weighed 124 lbs. At this time, Lake Texoma held the record at 121 lbs. This Tex/ok fish was taken to a large aquarium to live out its days. This little one was caught at Lake Texoma by jkh & friend. A great day to be fishing. BigSmilie was returned to the lake after 30 minutes being a star. Fishing is now my second hobbie. As one noted here, half of my income is taken by my Zcar. Thanks, again. OTM..... john

Congratulations John on your win and representation!! Great Car and Great Build! This Zcar and thread provide many suggestions for engine building and, in general, Zcar fabrication. Looking forward to getting my copy of Nissan Sport. John

As a follow-up, the following parts have been installed in this Zcar: GripForce F1 Racing Stage 2 clutch kit (purchased via ebay); OEM flywheel was surface milled; Re-build T5 transmission (bearings replaced); and Polyurethane bushings (purchased via ebay) on front corners (jmortensen). See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114631 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107793 These changes, in total, made a tremendous difference in the way this Zcar drives; the transmission stopped whinnning; the clutch is tighter; and the ride is firmer on the road & in turns and more stable in the front end. She is so easy (fun) to drive. However, she has been driven cautiously so far. This will change after the remaining upgrades are completed. TiAL blow-off-valve (BOV) (purchased but not installed, yet) Cat converter (3-way & high-flow) (2.5â€) / Muffler (2.5â€) Higher cc injectors (to be determined) P&P+ or a stand-alone EMS (to be determined) Since some of the engine-rebuild decisions were not mine, I have researched one of the most critical parts of a rebuild, the selection of the pistons. Hyper-eutectic pistons were placed in this L28ET. Subsequently, the primary focus of this search was technology, composition and durability of these pistons. After reading the articles below, I am comfortable with this decision to run with hyper-eutectic pistons because irregular tuning/maintenance and heavy loads (heat) are two of the many critical reasons for piston failure (detonation). However, only time will tell. Piston Upgrade: Cast, Hyper-eutectic or Forge pistons. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston http://www.stealth316.com/2-pistonguide.htm http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/power-adder/214262-hypereutectic-pistons-not-so.html Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Pistons and Pins: What’s New. (Google) See: ?? Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Piston Design, An Evolutionary Tale. (Google) See: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb40354.htm Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Performance Pistons. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/eb60522.htm Beck Racing. Hypereutectic -vs- Forged Pistons. See: http://webpages.charter.net/beckracing/page11.htm BLKMGK in HybridZ. Heads and bores. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=65902 QUIKDECISION in Offshoreonly.com. Piston Choice- hypereutectic vs. forged. See: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-102390.html Piston Tech by TEAM-INTEGRA.NET. See: http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=183 TRS in TheRangerStation.com. cast vs hypereutectic pistons. See: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=72404 Enjoy the reads! Purchased the new edition of “The FAST and the Furious†and enjoyed $50K build-up of a regular street car (Mit. EVO 8). Yes, she was nice toooo! john

Happy Birthday HybridZ, Seven years of making friends; spreading the word; and educating the silent majority. What a great accomplishment. Thanks to all the administrators that allow this website to be so creative and the many members within the Z community who write those threads that show the way. Thanks. 2007 has been a great year for my car; and Yes, both HybridZ and a Zcar can be addictive. jkh280zx

BY, Thanks for your inquiry. If you like, I can take addition photos and send them to you via PM as soon as possible. The pattern is not Nissan style but I like them and they fit nicely and are holding up just fine; however, it is still too early to tell. The cushions were rebuilt and then leather covers were added. These covers were made by the following shop in Bryan (TX): M & M Upholstery. Phone: 979-775-8169. The cost for me was $400. He took the right seat out of the car and made a pattern for both. When they were done, I arrived and left with two newly refreshed seats!! Let me know if you want additional photos and any more information via PM!! John

*This Zcar has been my dd since 1984. She is a CA car that has required modifications at different times during her journey: a complete turbo high-performance cam kit; a radiator from ‘80 automatic turbo Zcar; heavier struts (KYB GR-2) & shocks (KYB GAS-a-just); and a new matched set of OEM Nissan injectors (265cc). *As you can see, a new coat of paint would be good but first-things-first. Rust hits Zcars and this one is no exception: surface rust on several areas (not bad, but engine first); two critical rustic areas exist – right back wheel well and the spare tire well has several quarter-size holes. My bad!! *Yes, tan and brown interior with a digital dash; the towel covers one crack in the dash (magnet clamps keeps the towel stationary); recently refreshed OEM seats & leather covers; new floor mats and other interior parts have been purchase from MSA; and …….. The t-tops leaked until a body shop (Darwin’s in Jonesboro) closed them up at my request. *Usually, a Zcar with these miles will eventually require an engine rebuild and this happened last summer (2007). This work was done at Jim’s Machine & Auto Shop (Paragould, AR). What a new experience!!! Initially, I started ordering parts from MSA and ebay. The “rest-of-the-story” is provided in the link below. This next photo is the AFTER results. However, next week, a TiAL BOV will be placed on the charged pipe before the 60 mm TB. Engine bay and IC & Cold Air Intake tubing: AFTER the process. Current status of this Zcar’s restoration project: *Block: F54 was cleaned (see write-up) and repainted; cylinders bored (+.030) and honed; surfaced milled; and new hypereutectic cast w/ dished pistons, etc. (ITM Engine Components). *Head: P90a was also cleaned; head & runners of the intake manifold ported-to-gasket, not polished; 3-angle valve grind and surface milled; solid lifters + screw thread inserts; and completely rebuilt head with new springs, valves, etc. (ITM Engine Components). *Intake Manifold: Stock was cleaned and ported-to-gasket with new TB, not polished; 60 mm TB w/ plastic spacer (PAllnet); turbo barb fuel rail system (PAllnet); and OEM Nissan low impendence injectors (256 cc) (to be changed out). *Turbocharger System: New Garrett T3/T04E 50 trim w/ .63 a/r housing; downpipe (2.5 in.) with ports to an external TiAL wastegate (38 mm) and oxygen sensor; new TiAL BOV (50 mm) (purchased & schedule to be added next week). *Ignition and Fuel Injection: New turbo electric distributor and cap, wires; NGK BPR7ES spark plugs; new AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator; high-pressure EFI fuel pump *NR* (95 psi); spark plug wires will be separated as noted in HybridZ and EMS (to be determined). *Transmission & Differential: Stock T5 (3.54) was rebuilt; GripForce F1 Racing Stage2 clutch kit; stock OEM flywheel shaved; stock turbo LSD R200 differential is fine. *Cooling System: Oil cooler in the radiator, the latter was taken from a ’80 turbo automatic 280zx; new turbo OEM oil pump; cold air intake kit (MSA); all aluminum, front-mounted air intercooler system (FMIC) (600 HP+) with same side inlets and outlets (2.5 in.) (core - 18”x6”x3.5”); universal FMIC piping kit; and electric dual fan (Maradyne). *Exhaust System: A new high-flow/3-way CAT with tubing to a new muffler (to be done). *Body: Louvers cleaned and re-painted; tinted side windows and tinted windshield; and a new coat of paint (to be done). *Interior: New headliner; re-fabrication of OEM seats & leather covers; and ……. *Miscellaneous: New water pump; new OEM turbo timing-chain kit; stock turbo wheels with Goodyear GTIIs. *Thanks for looking in on my ride. She is fine and such a joy to drive. Learning with each challenge and thanks to HybridZ for showing the way>>> John (jkh280zx)

In April of this year (2007), I posted a request for help on zcar.com (Car will not start!). The problems were related to oil on the spark plugs (worn rings) and other evils. My sources of information told me that this ’83 L28ET engine needed to be rebuilt. With a philosophy of maintenance/efficiency before stranded/repair, I had already made several modifications to this car. First of all, heavier struts (KYB GR-2) & shocks (KYB GAS-a-just) were added at ~130K miles; next, a 3-row radiator from a ’80 automatic turbo and a complete high-performance cam kit were installed into the L28ET engine, both of these mods were added at ~170K miles; and a new matched set of OEM Nissan injectors (265cc) was installed more recently at ~287K miles. What is next? After two attempts to find a machinist/mechanic to rebuild this L28ET engine, I found one just north of Jonesboro (AR). During our first conversation, James, the owner of Jim’s Machine & Auto Shop, related to me his experiences rebuilding engines of the L6-series, 300zx, SBC350 and others. In short, this shop was chosen to rebuild and incorporate many upgrades. James became “The Zdoctor” for my car; the term given to the one who takes care of my wheels. After spending many weeks reading the Guidelines, FAQs, Stickies, and threads in HybridZ and sourcing for an engine rebuilding kit for my Zcar on the Internet, the journey became a major challenge to find the right parts for this ‘83 L28ET. Since several of the existing parts for an engine rebuild were relatively new, I focused on finding the remaining components that fit the head (P90a)&block (F-54) and to find an upgrade to replace the original T3 turbo. Eventually, I e-mailed Paul (HybridZ, Administrator) and, subsequently, he suggested John (HybridZ) as a good source for the turbo question. In parallel, the information really started to flow into the project. From correspondence with John (HybridZ), the following points were also provided: porting of 60 mm TB/intake manifold/runners and the cylinder head; boring 20 thousands (+0.020) or larger; cast pistons vs forged pistons; ARP studs for the rods, mains and head; an OEM oil cooler; an adjustable fuel-pressure regulator (vacuum/boost referenced unit); stock turbo injectors vs higher cc capacity injectors for increased HP; aftermarket EMS to support 300+HP and higher levels of performance; stock J-pipe vs modified downpipe (w/ ports for external wastegate & oxygen sensor) that runs from the turbo to the Cat; 3” vs 2.5” exhaust system; spark plugs and electrical systems; MSD-like for an improved ignition system; air intercooler for turbo preservation; and turbo specifications for 300+HP. After the first week, I visited the shop where the L28ET was being “refreshed”. The block and head had already been dismantled, cleaned and were good-to-go. Other parts as well: the crank, the cam kit, the timing-chain kit, the clutch and flywheel, etc. were also fine. New engine parts (pistons, valves, etc.) had already been purchased (ITM Engine Components). The following week, I returned and the engine had been assembled and it looked great. I watched as the Zdoc installed the 60 mm TB + spacer and a turbo barb fuel rail kit with its fuel pressure gauge (60 psi). An adjustable fuel-pressure regulator (1:1 vacuum to boost) as suggested by John (HybridZ) was purchased (AEM) and installed via Paul’s schematic diagram and adjusted via another thread, both from HybridZ. Next, the OEM hydraulic lifters were replaced with solid lifters. [screw thread inserts were purchased from Time-Serts®.] Parts that were ordered for this rebuild were put into this project: a 60 mm TB kit w/ plastic spacer (PAllnet Specialty Automotive Parts) and a complete turbo barb fuel rail system (PAllnet), 105 amp alternator (Zselect.com), cold air induction system (MSA), oil cooler kit (MSA), new turbo oil pump (ebay), turbo high-pressure EFI fuel pump *NR* (95 psi) (ebay), NGK BPR7ES spark plugs (ebay), turbo electronic distributor for 280zxt (ebay) and new distributor cap & wires (local), new water pump (local) and new timing-chain kit for 280zxt (ebay). Next was to purchase a new turbo; the original T3 unit was completely worn out. The new turbo that was selected was a Garrett T3/TO4E 50 trim w/ .63 a/r housing (Phoenix Turbo & MFG). This hybrid has a stage 3 compressor wheel and a T04E 50 trim a/r w/ .63 turbine housing, which fits the specs of this car (John at HybridZ). An external TiAL wastegate (38mm), which is normally sold with this hybrid turbo, was purchased from the provider (Phoenix Turbo & MFG). A downpipe (2.5”) and flanges were constructed by the Zdoc with ports for the wastegate and oxygen sensor; both the Cat and the piping/muffler will eventually be changed out. Currently, she runs tight/heavy on the road but She is Alive!! The Maiden Voyage of 21 miles on the road by jkh. Next was to purchase a front-mounted, air intercooler system (IC). From sourcing HybridZ, three IC piping routes were discussed by members of this group (wigenOut-S30); route #3 was declared the best so I selected this route for my Zcar, which meant a same side air intercooler needed to be purchased. This style IC unit had been discussed in HybridZ (randy 77zt) and the Internet. The one purchased possesses the following characteristics: turbo application up to 600HP, all aluminum with bar&plate design, and same side inlet (2.5”) & outlet (2.5”) style air intercooler with a core of 18”x6”x3.5” (total length: 20”x12”x3.5”) (XO2 Racing). Next, a universal FMIC intercooler piping kit was purchased with several additional turbo silicone connectors (2” to 2.5”, 2.5” to 3.0”, and 2.5” to 2.5” bends) (GS Infinity). Also, an electric dual fan (Maradyne*) (SRS) (2,760 cfm) was purchased and placed directly in front of the AC grill (AC kept). AND the so-call need for an oil cooler was mute because the Zdoc noted that my car already had an oil cooler in the radiator, which the latter was installed at about 170K+ miles. Take a Deep Breath! Make HP and Preserve the Turbo. Air intercooler system consisted of a same-side FMIC, cold air intake system and a dual electric Maradyne fan. Engine bay and FMIC & Cold Air Intake tubing: AFTER the process. She came home Sept. 7th to stay. The break-in procedure has started as described in HybridZ, “What is the best way to break-in a rebuilt engine”. Each day, she was driven for one hour on the open road at constant speed with occasional accelerations and decelerations: current mileage is ~1500 miles of new life. Next a new EMS. Currently, an ‘83 OEM ECU/AFM/turbo distributor system is governing a completely rebuilt engine with aftermarket upgrades; therefore, a new engine management system (EMS) is needed (Steve, correspondence). Many threads exist in HybridZ that discusses the following: reprogrammed OEM ECU, Z31 ECU/MAF swap, plug&play+ (eMS-Pro) or standalone (Electromotive, Wolf3D, etc.). These systems have advantages: do I want to drive today or drive after extensive hours of tuning and, of course, which system is best for my 300+HP goal. This truly has been a team effort. James, the Zdoc, and his crew has worked timely and diligently on this project. Thanks to John (HybridZ), Paul (HybridZ, Administrator) and Peter (HybridZ and zcar.com) for all your help and, respectfully, your time. You all gave creative skills, suggestions and focus to this project. Thanks to HybridZ and its many members, too numerous to note, who have generated the many threads discussing problems-challenges associated with owning a Datsun Z car. Enjoying the Ride!!!!!!!! John (jkh280zx) For complete text, See: http://thehemp.netfirms.com/L28ETtext-history.htm

Oil on spark plugs after 300K miles as dd. Stage 1: First road run without the air cooler, etc. Stage 2: After status & waiting for the next mods! Thanks for the many suggests and threads that governed this rebuild. jkh280zx

Gabe, How sweet it is!! Like the project and the valve cover. Keep the pictures coming. John (jkh280zx)

Hi John, If you are still looking for a SBC350, I suggest you call Jims Machine & Auto Shop [1 (870) 239-5030] in Paragould (AR). James stated that he has several available or he could build what ever you wanted. James just rebuilt my 1983 L28ET that had 300K+ miles of fun driving. Now she is a L31ET with many upgrades that I wanted. I am very pleased with the work that this shop did for me. John:D

Thanks Peter, I will relate this procedure tomorrow. My copy of a FSM is not very clear; need to get one from ebay or Nissan. I am sure that the shop has a DVOM. Your message lead me to other information:resources that needs to be checked out as well. Will let you know the results of this find. Thanks again. I am pleased with your products in my Zcar. She will be fine!! John (jkh280zx)

Hi All, My first post was on the thread ‘first experiences with a Zcar’posted by cygnusx1, recently. My second post involves the same car, a 1983 280zxt, which is in the shop for a “do-over†of its L28ET. Well, this engine is now a L30ET (w/ upgrades), which currently is back into the engine bay. [The upgrades are noted below.] First attempt to start went fine. The next day, the car started fine but after a warm-up period, the car ran rich and then died. To start the car a second time, one has to push the gas petal to the floor then it starts, eventually. After setting for a few days, these same symptoms appeared after re-starting the car when it has warmed up. When the mechanic takes out a spark plug immediately after the car dies, then he finds fuel on the plug. The mechanic has lowered the new adjustable fuel-pressure regulator (AEM) to 30 psi and it runs fine but then the same symptom re-appears. [regulator set as noted in schematic by BRAAP & other posts in HybridZ] The car starts best at 35 psi so far. The mechanic looks at ALLdata (a computer program) that discusses ways to test sensors and the like but has not come up with a better way to find the problem. He suspects the MAF meter. He plans to switch out this original MAF for another from a friend's car to see if this identifies the problem. Isn’t there a little switch (or sensor-connector) that can go bad/get dirty over-time in the MAF; maybe this is the problem. But just all at once. My Zcar started for me almost all of the time during the first 300K+ miles, before the engine problems started. The original ECU is still in control of this car and reads from the MAF. I would appreciate your input. I thank HybridZ and all who put so many threads at this site. I will post this “do-over†journey with pictures when finished. Credits will be noted. John (jkh280zx) Components Kept: a complete performance cam kit that originally was added at ~170K+ miles and a near new OEM turbo set of fuel injectors (256cc) that was added at 287K+ miles. Upgrades include the following: re-built kit consisting of pistons, etc. for the F54/P90a, a 60TB kit w/ plastic spacer (PAllnet), a complete turbo barb fuel rail system with its fuel gauge (60 psi) (PAllnet), 105 amp alternator (Zselect.com), cold air induction system (MSA), oil cooler kit (MSA), new turbo oil pump (ebay), a turbo high-pressure EFI fuel pump *NR* (95 psi)(ebay), NGK BPR6ES-11 spark plugs (ebay), turbo electronic distributor for 280zxt (ebay) and new distributor cap & wires (local), new water pump (local), new timing-chain kit for 280zxt (ebay), an adjustable fuel-pressure regulator (1:1 ratio of vacuum to boost) (AEM), new Garrett T3/TO4E trim w/ .63 a/r housing, a down pipe constructed w/ ports for the wastegate and oxygen sensor, and an air intercooler system has been purchased (sourced via HybridZ).

[My first post.] My 72celica was getting old and I wanted another set of wheels. I saw this 80 280zx N/A CB w/ louvers, awesome looking car at a downtown dealarship in Santa Barbara, CA. Then, I went a few streets up and talked with a Toyota salesperson about a 80Supra and got all of the info. Went back to the Datsun delearship and starting talking this for that!! Well, I bought the 80Zcar for less and was happy. She was fine. A joy to drive and no problems. Moved to the BayArea; worked late and was heading home on El Camino Real (south) or dealership alley and there she was my next and only car since 1984, a 1983 280zxt, CB w/ louvers. My 80wheels had 98K miles on it and it must be ready to fall apart, right!!!!!!!! [Now I know.] Well I walked into the Datsun delearship and started talking to the first wave; he was good and informative. We talked about this dream car. I could tell it had not been hit; had a player in the glovebox; was very clean; and it had only 9K miles on the odometer. The next wave came at me and started to downgrade my wheels (never do that! why don't they ever learn!), so I let him drive it. He came back and continued to talk about my wheels. I pointed my finger in his face and said tomorrow I will buy this car and I do not want to see your face. I said to the nice guy, talk with your finance guy and I will talk with my bank and you and I will make a deal tomorrow. We did and I have been pleased ever since. Yes, I sold my 80wheels to a young couple from Napa Valley, so many crisp 100s and paid off the loan; the bank and I were both happy. Currently, I am working on an essay (w/pictures) to describe the upgrades done during the first 300K+ miles and the "refreshment" of my 83 L28ET to an L30ET with many more upgrades. I have HybridZ to thank for all info that defined this project. This lastest 83Zcar experience has been good for me. Not being mechanically inclinded, I have learned lots and will share. Thanks to you all.