jkh280zx

Merry Christmas to all at HybridZ, Purchased several things that fit the plan; new fuel pump (Walbro 255lph-PH), several rubber weatherstrips (MSA & Nissan), outside mirrors and a set of t-tops. Thanks to you all who provided information and these parts for my rebuild project. I purchased a B&D light for James and Rick at The Shop plus the usual DP 6-pack. john

During my days at Indiana University, the temperatures went below zero for 30 days, with lowest down to minus 33. (blizzard come through Bloomington) I drove my Zcar (83 280zxt: 300K miles) to work, to running workouts at "daddy waggs" home and to the indoor track facility. One of our outdoor workouts was under minus 30 conditions. The Zcar never failed to start and always handled the snow in Bloomington and Liberty, MO. john

I am a CB/PP/MBs and have been working in research labs in the biotech industry and academic environments. These are some of the team projects that I have worked on and/or lead. Currently, I have accepted a position at PSHarrisburg to assist in creating GMOs for biofuel and biodiesel crops. http://thehemp.netfirms.com/jkh2.Plant Biotechnology.index.htm I hope this work here; it works on my resume. Looking forward to reading the rest of the stories. john

Hey Guys, Last Sunday night, I accepted a research position in PA to work with a PI at PSHarrisburg. The focus will be on creating GMOs for biofuel crops. This means that I will be moving in approximately two weeks. I want to thank all those specific individuals (you know who you are) and all of the members of HybridZ who wrote all those threads that guided this re-build. I will store my wheels during the winter; the plan is to purchase a '95 to '98 Pathfinder to use as my dd and the Zcar will be my fun car. You all know that it was not my hands that incorporated all of these upgrades into my Zcar. It has always been my policy to give credit where credit is due so here is my Team in Paragould, AR. I thank them for carring this Zcar project through Stage 1 and sharing all of their knowledge about re-building cars. It has been fun and I have learned much. Now to summarize what has been accomplished in Stage 1. After becoming situated in Harrisburg, I will continue this road for as we all know the tasks are so many. However, I will not be making too many decisions for my time will be spent in the lab, greenhouse and field, etc. How sweet it is... Continuing to enjoy!! john

Since I plan to keep my ride, I am in the process of replacing the sensors within the re-manufactured L28ET. A few months back, the anti-knock sensor, which is located to the right of the dip-stick, was replaced. Recently, both the thermotime switch and the water temperature sensor have been replaced as noted in the Lphoto (diagram from the bible). Since the stock auxillary cooling fan has been removed, the water temperature switch has been plugged as noted in the Rphoto. As previously noted in an above post in this thread, an electric aftermarket fan has been installed for summer days, which is control by the driver. Hope my labels are right… Next, the rear bushings were replaced (Nissan OEM parts). Now, the front is polyurethane and the back is Nissan OEM. For clarification, see the above post on whys for 280zx & polyurethane front only. Thanks Jon (jmortensen). Local Nissan let me have just the back set. Good for them. When I replace the TC rods, the back polyurethane set that I have will replace the OEM set, maybe. The rear shocks were exchanged out too (KYB Gas Adjustable). Now the front struts and back shocks are KYB new. Subsequently, my ride is much firmer; needs to be evaluated on the open road tomorrow (it rain this afternoon). Also, the thermostat was replaced with Nissan OEM quality (170deg). Edited: Sorry! A few months back, I PM Jon (jmortensen) about replacing the original stock bushings with polyurethane upgrade. JKH: I have read your "TC rod modification FAQ" article and wondering if urethane bushings (front) and stock rubber bushings (back) is advisable instead of a complete urethane ride. Not sure if it is as simple of haft and haft or specifically TC rod (stock rubber bushings) in the back?? Your thoughts are appreciated. His reply was as follows: The front is the part that takes all the load when you're driving. I'd reuse the TC rubber unless it's literally falling apart. You can buy new ones if you like, but they'll sell you a set of 4 and you only need 2, not like that is the end of the world though. JKH: Since the original front bushings were not good, I requested the polyurethane bushings be put on the front with new KYB GR2s struts... As stated above, the back bushings are now OEM Nissan. So now you know the whole story…. john

Hey Gabe, I second what Hugh stated above. I purchased my turbo & external wastegate as noted below from “Phoenix Turbo & MFG”. “The new turbo that was selected was a Garrett T3/TO4E 50 trim w/ .63 a/r housing (Phoenix Turbo & MFG). This hybrid has a stage 3 compressor wheel and a T04E 50 trim a/r w/ .63 turbine housing, which fits the specs of this car. An external TiAL wastegate (38mm), which is normally sold with this hybrid turbo, was purchased from the provider (Phoenix Turbo & MFG).” (taken from my MsPs) Next, I called the same number and got Ken now “Peak Boost” for the 50mm TiAL BOV. He provided good information the first two calls, then refused to discuss my purchases as an operational unit. Recently, I was in Phoenix and I called the same phone number and asked the assistant for directions to his business. She called Ken to the phone and I stated that I wanted to come by to talk about the purchased combo and he stated that he was not a consultant and he would not come to the door, if I came to his place of business. I am new to this aftermarket industry, but in my sandbox that is being unprofessional. Enough said. john

Hey Jared, I too love the color. Swap to what?? FYI, had my 83 since 84 and she was wash & waxed and covered; however, the paint started to fade in the late 90s. jkh280zx

Ron, Have a Happy Birthday and be safe. Watch out for all bus drivers!! john

mickey235au, PM sent. FYI, the HE pistons were purchased from ITM Engine Conponents. http://www.itmengine.com Why? to me the answer is based on what you want as a DD, how much money you want to spend, and general objectives for your ride. My objective was to have a DD with a target of 300hp. This is covered in my MsPs. Here is the literature that I gather to justify this purchase for me (taken from my MsPs). Since some of the engine-rebuild decisions were not mine, I have researched one of the most critical parts of a rebuild, the selection of the pistons. Hyper-eutectic pistons were placed in this L28ET. Subsequently, the primary focus of this search was technology, composition and durability of these pistons. After reading the articles below, I am comfortable with this decision to run with hyper-eutectic pistons because irregular tuning/maintenance and heavy loads (heat) are two of the many critical reasons for piston failure (detonation). However, only time will tell. Piston Upgrade: Cast, Hyper-eutectic or Forge pistons. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston http://www.stealth316.com/2-pistonguide.htm http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/power-adder/214262-hypereutectic-pistons-not-so.html Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Pistons and Pins: What’s New. (Google) See: ?? Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Piston Design, An Evolutionary Tale. (Google) See: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb40354.htm Larry Carley, Technical Editor. Engine Builder Magazine. Performance Pistons. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/eb60522.htm Beck Racing. Hypereutectic -vs- Forged Pistons. See: http://webpages.charter.net/beckracing/page11.htm BLKMGK in HybridZ. Heads and bores. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=65902 QUIKDECISION in Offshoreonly.com. Piston Choice- hypereutectic vs. forged. See: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-102390.html Piston Tech by TEAM-INTEGRA.NET. See: http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=183 TRS in TheRangerStation.com. cast vs hypereutectic pistons. See: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=72404 Enjoy the read... john

This is one of the very first “re-do” tasks that I wanted to accomplish with this rebuild project. The target for this new system is to improve efficiency of air-flow, lower back pressure and maintain the green status. A few of the supportive articles that were copied and placed in my “to do” notebook is listed here: > “from a performance aspect, the largest diameter, shortest length “high-flow” cat should technically (provide) the lowest back pressure. It is really hard to say which is the best, …. but if it says ‘high-flow’, you should be alright.” (gsxalex via zcar.com) > “The cat that came in the car originally will not affect NOX, because it is only a two-way cat. Upgrading to a newer 3-way, high-flow cat will eliminate almost all NOX. A good 3-way, high-flow cat will make a huge difference in all emissions output.” (RodMoyes via zdriver.com) > “As for 2.5” vs. 3.0”, the “best” turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5” is fine. Going to 3” at this power level won’t get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you’re definitely suboptimal with 2.5”. For 400-450 hp, even 3” is on the small side.” See article cited in jgkurz via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120914 Also: “…avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid “cheated” radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high-flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler…etc.” > “It is true that a 2.5” exhaust will usually create a bigger torque number at a lower rpm than a 3”. It is not the back pressure which gives you the more torque it is the velocity of the gas at that rpm that gives you’re the bigger number.” clint78z via HybridZ (ref. below). Check also: johnc (post #23), SHO-Z (post #32) & pparaska (post #38). > “So how do we get low back pressure behind the turbine?” Street Turbocharging. Mark Warner, P.E. (See: ref. below). “….direct relation exists between horsepower and minimum exhaust diameter (see the graph on page 67).” (Similar information in Figure 11-4 on page 133 in Corky Bell’s Maximum Boost. See: ref. below) > Which manufacturer for the muffler? Recommendations found in HybridZ are Dynomax Ultraflow (Scottie-GNZ via HybridZ); Borla, Apexi and Magnaflow (many via HybridZ). So, what does all this mean for my Zcar? As you know, the engine (L28ET) in this CA car has recently been rebuilt. The existing downpipe (+ external wastegate) is 2.5" and, currently, is in front of the exhaust system: original CA Cat + TX muffler. At first, I wanted a 3” exhaust system; however, there was a concern about the ease-of-fit of this exhaust diameter within the under carriage of my Zcar, etc. Therefore, the next exhaust system for this ’83 280zxt will be >> all stainless steel (SS) system combo of a CAT [2.5” HF, 3-way, EPA compliant, OBDII, SS Magnaflow #54956] and Muffler [2.5" HF, SS Magnaflow #12246]. These units will be connected to the 2.5” downpipe via TIG welding of 2.5” Mandrel-bend pipe sections. This combination can be obtained for a reasonable cost from Summit; and even better at an AR muffler distributor. Out with the old farts: Notice the black stuffings from the cast iron pipe, well there was more than that after this pipe was cut out of the system. This section had three bends as noted with several crimps (2-3 each bend); tubing was smaller (1/2“at least) than the new 2.5” tubing (Mandrel bend). CAT was original CA (~300K+); muffler had a TX origin (~170K+). In with the new parts: The new combination is 2.5” Magnaflow (replace the last number 6 with a 9 for both parts, if you want a 3” system). I kept the invoice & documentation “to change a CAT” to be carried with the registration, etc. No one will believe that that little thing is a Fed CAT. This document stated that a CAT removal is unlawful; a CAT would normally outlast a car and this one possessed a warrantee for 8 years or 80K miles. Written on the document that the reason for removing the original CAT was that the car had a 300K mileage. Signed by Rick from Jim’s Auto Machine Shop. This documentation came with the CAT and this is AR. Regarding my Zcar, this is one of several reasons that I can not move back to CA and get this car CA registered. Looks like a straight pipe to me…. Bend & Cut… Muffler pictured from the back. She sounds great… No 90 degree bends… No crimps… I am pleased… Looking forward to better gas mileage… Just a little clarification here: The target for this car is 300HP and a 2.5” exhaust system is considered suboptimal but this system will support enough HP for my dd. Maybe later, I will change it. 3” exhaust system or greater would have resulted in higher HP for a L28ET such as this one. Next, most likely will be a boost controller. The “EMS & CC Injectors” decision is getting closer. References: Scottie-GNZ via HybridZ. “Dynomax Ultraflo for turbo engines.” See: HybridZ?? 83turbo280zx via HybridZ. “New exhaust (pics)” See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135359 OR-JO via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php? t=132039 Calgary280ZT via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132195 Check: TonyD (posts #2 & #3). MazterDizazter via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129591 Check: TimZ via HybridZ (post #4). Big-phil via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129256 Clint78z via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98786 Check: johnc via HybridZ (post #23). Mattyice via HybridZ. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132954 Check: 280ZForce via HybridZ (post #13). Catalytic Converter via Wikipedia. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/catalytic_converter Cats (Catalytic converters) with Higher Flow. See: http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=24 Larry Carley. Catalytic Converter. 2007. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm Larry Carley. OBD II Emissions Testing. 2006. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us50326.htm Larry Carley. OBD II Emissions and Driveability Problems. 2006. See: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic50234.htm Unknown. Exhaust System. Euro Exhaust. 3” Killer Stainless Exhaust System. (lost ref.) My427stang. Has anyone here done any testing on mufflers?via SpeedTalk.See: http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7074 Exhaust design effects on noise. See:http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=309 Exhaust Science Demystified. See: http://www.superchev.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0505phr_exh/index.html John Holowczak on Exhaust Design. See: http://www.shotimes.com/sho4exhaust+johnH.html Beat the Law. The Truth about Going Catless. See: http://images.magnaflow.com/magazine/pdf/catalytic.pdf Mark Warner, P.E. 2006. Street Turbocharging. Design, Fabrication, Installation, and Tuning of High-Performance Turbocharger Systems. HPBooks. Corky Bell. 1997. Maximum Boost. Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharger Systems. Bentley Publishers. Thanks for looking in… john

Left unclear in this thread and the original write-up was the electrical circuit for the push fan (Maradyne) used in my Zcar. As shown in the insert, tips of the hot wires (blue) were exposed and wrapped together; same for the ground wires. The hot wire was then attached to a 12 V continuous-duty solenoid relay using 16 g wires as shown in the diagram below. A toggle switch was incorporated within the circuitry; the switch was placed on the lower part of the dash just to the right of the steering column. During the summer (AR), the use of this fan is a must. Thanks for asking... john

Gabe, How this combination will perform is unknown at this time; however, this is what my rebuilt car has to date. Since you asked for mods, here are the relevant ones in regards to a turbo system. Yesterday, a new exhaust system was added to the list (noted below). *Engine: L28ET w/ dished, hypereutectic-cast pistons (compression unknown) w/ FMIC. Oil cooler in the radiator; the latter was taken from a ’81 turbo automatic 280zx. *Turbocharger System: Garrett T3/T04E 50 trim w/ .63 a/r housing; downpipe (2.5 in.) with ports to an external TiAL wastegate (38 mm) and oxygen sensor; and new TiAL BOV (50 mm). EWG incorporated as it came from the provider. Boost controller will be added. *Fuel Injection: AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator; high-pressure EFI fuel pump (95 psi). *Injectors & ECU are stock for now. *Exhaust System: A new 2.5†high-flow/3-way Magnaflow CAT with Mandrel bend tubing to a new 2.5†high-flow Magnaflow muffler. *HP unknown at this time. She runs really nice and will be tested when I find a place to run her. Great thread; it should provide lots of useful information. john

Thanks all, good info: Second note: when you rent a car make sure that the tire tread is good, especially front-wheel-drive cars. Of course, checking the DOTE number could be beneficial to you too. When the L28ET in my zcar was being rebuilt, I rented an economy car to drive to KC. On the return trip, the left-front tire went while crossing (55 mph) the Missouri River and driving adjacent to an 18-wheeler. Not good. jkh280zx

Hey 280zone, Follow-up on ben280zx's suggestion. Alternative: the radiator currently in my 83 280zxt originally came from a 81 280zxt, which had the oil cooler inside. Did such a species come with your engine?? Good luck! jkh

Hey TR, Great run, you have been busy. She likes her new home. Thanks for sharing. jkh

Hey, Another “bring back memories†thread!! Awesome. You seem to be focusing on BMX and mountain biking. As stated by several, “it is what challenges you the most and will get you out the door to the fresh air that you seem to be leaning towardsâ€. Machine bikes & hand weights have their place; but breathing fresh air was always my first choice. Since I have not ridden a BMX or a mountain bike, I can not talk from experience in these areas but believe me one can get tremendous benefits with road bike riding and a good nutritional diet, which has been already stated. My road biking experience started when the running doc stated that he would have to cut the sheath around my Achilles tendon to stop the pain. So I purchased a commuting bike (Univega nuovo sport), yes the one with those funny brakes on the handle bars…. Well, riding on weekends lead to 5-days a week and slowly lead to changing out the component parts; of course, the first to go was the bakes, etc. Trained mostly alone from Mountain View to other parts of the Bay Area (CA), up & down with increasing time out. Eventually purchased a Titanium Titus bike and rode 100 milers, etc. and had a great time. So pick your poison, be discipline, select your routes for training/safety & record your time out each day, join a biking club and go to group rides. Based on my running experience, never exceed 5% work load for a 3-week period; it will hurt you. Great thread!! Zcars breathe and so do we!! john

Since the combo parts for my next Exhaust System have not arrived (as yet), I thought I would share here in my MsPs thread information that I have already posted in another HybridZ thread about two key parts of 280zxt engine upgrade: ECU numbers & Cam Spects for L6 Zengines. My focus has been on my ‘83 280zxt, so this is what is provided in this table. However, the references provided below will be more complete. The sources of this information (ECU Numbers) were via Wayne and Blue, both from zcar and jimwolftechnology. Check HybridZ and zcar for additional information regarding compatibility between the year of an ECU and specific Zengines. Cam Spects for L6 Engines: Eventually, I will need to evaluate the performance cam within my Zcar; no marks were on this cam as found during the rebuild. Therefore, I am not really sure, if this cam will be the best one for my turbo Zcar, when all of the aftermarket upgrades have been added. This information will be the baseline for this decision. The reference is noted below >>> See: Blue’s Atlantic Z Club Tips – Z Tech Tips as noted below. Hope this is helpful! References: Wayne Monteath via zcar. See: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/702395/702457 Nissan ECU core identification list. See: http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ECU-ID.PDF Blue via zcar. See: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ john

Butters, Hey, really sorry about your car being treated with no respect. I know what you mean.....Tape up the window of your ZX; garage her at night!! work on your 280z for a while and remember that this toooo will pass! From one TX to another!!! jkh

Hope this information helps: * ECU numbers for 280zxt - Source > Wayne Monteath (zcar.com) * Cam Spects - Source > Blues atlantic TechTips (zcar.com) Good luck with your 280zxt. Great potential!! john

Zed2k, See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81791 I followed Grumpy's procedure (L28ET). Changed oil at 700 & 1500 with heavy duty oil. After 3000M, used half&half (2x) to date. After rebuild&break-in, oil is changed at 3000M. Readjusted the valves (solid now) at 700 & 1500 & 3000M; next time 30K, I believe this is recommended but check this out. Good Luck! john

Gollum, As a dd, I would do the quick fix items that you mentioned such as fixing the dash as noted, tint windows, keep current wheels and wash&pollish. Tinting the side & back glass will complete your ride and help on sunny days in the BayArea. The rusty hood can be a future project, when time is more convenient. You stated it: "just presentable". Going to Zshows is a time for conversing with friends and meeting new ones; collecting info for future builds and taking pictures for those who live too far away. Thanks for that too. R&R day. Motoring J Style show > where is it? and just zcars? Now, thanks for your contributions to HybridZ. Your insite has been a big help; continue the good work. My Zcar was purchased on dealership alley in 1984. john

zmaster, Good info here. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=829852 Good Luck. john

TT, FYI, not sure if this will help!!! Recently, I saw Rick (Jims Auto & Machine shop) remove a bolt from a 350 block - one of many that holds on one of the heads. The owner broke off this bolt about one inch within the block. First, Rick drilled out the bolt; required two drilled holds side-by-side, then he worked the remaining piece out with long needle noes pliers. Then, with a Time-Sert kit, he re-threaded the hole using a set-up within the kit and then inserted a thread, which was correct for the new bolt. The company, TIME-SERT, was the same one that we purchased the threads used to convert the hydraudlics to solids (P90a head in my 280zxt). Check: Toll free (800) 423-4070. If the procedure is not the same, I be bad!! Not the first time!! Good luck with your task. john

Found this researching my next exhaust system. Being new to this field, my vision was two dimensional; however, this figure changed that to a higher level. Sure that most of you have already seen this but I thought that this was very interesting. Enjoy the read. Check out the reference. I am sure that the text is even more intriguing. john

Last week, the flange for the TiAL BOV (blow-off valve) was TIG welded to the charged intake pipe. Rick performed the task. When I asked him if I could smooth the weld evenly, he gave me a major look of “what are you going to do with my efforts”. Well, under his guidance, I smoothed down the welded region as shown in the photo. It took me almost two days to accomplish this task (James had gone to Seattle to buy a SG8A Rottler). I am pleased with the attachment of this TiAL BOV; it really helps to have experience and tools to accomplish the mods that one wants for their Zcar. Photos: Attachment of TiAL BOV and Polishing. Photos: Assembling BOV (James) Snip! Snip! Out goes the old and in goes the new! Recycled to the intake manifold! After Photo! The pop-off valve remains on this L28ET. We could not find a tool to get it off. I have only heard it once and that was after the rebuild so for the time being, it will remain. Time will tell!!! Well, sooner or later, information comes via HybridZ. Thanks mario 82 ZXT (#10) & hughdogz (#11) for the procedure to take off the OEM pop-off valve on this 83 280zxt. See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132686 This completes the “protect-the-turbo” phase of this rebuild; IC and wastegate have already been added. The BOV is essential in protecting the turbo and maintaining the spooling rate created by the compressor housing wheel, which improves performance within a timed situation but does not add to HP. The purpose of the BOV is to release most, if not all, of the negative air pressure between the throttle plate and the turbo, when the TB plate is closed (See: Tony D post #41 reference below, etc.). Without a place for this negative air pressure to go, the turbo compressor wheel would rapidly decelerate from ~120K rpms under boost conditions to much lower rpms that would cause a serious lag in response, when re-applying the throttle in the next gear (i.e. turbo lag). BOV 101. See: http://www.venommotorsports.com/library/bov.asp This constant spooling-up under boost conditions and spooling-down under deceleration or shifting conditions result in excessive wear on the compressor wheel & bearings. Under BOV control, the turbo stays spooled-up while shifting and slowly slows down while decelerating. Subsequently, under BOV control, the turbo is “protected” and therefore lives longer (DDG-BOV Explained. About blow-off valves. See: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov.html When the throttle is closed, the BOV can be set up to release negative air pressure into the atmosphere (‘psshhtt’) or re-circulated it into the intake manifold. According to the literature, the former set-up results in a slightly rich condition in the engine for a brief period of time. This is caused by the AFM readings that is being taken and then sent to the ECU, which in turn adjusts the fuel mixture accordingly. When that metered air is released to the atmosphere, the fuel-air mixture is changed because the back-up pressure has been released and the allocated gas will still be burned. When re-circulated back into the intake manifold, the fuel-air mixture is not changed (Gollum via HybridZ) (See reference below). Some manufacturers provide three styles of BOV units: one which blows to the atmosphere; one which re-cycles; and one which recycles and release a small portion of negative pressure to the atmosphere (‘psshhtt’). Additional information on which BOV to buy. Some say it is critical, so don’t buy cheap and others take the other extreme. Therefore, check out this thread (Choosing a blow-off valve, what should I be looking for?) See: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129672 Since I have already made my decision about a BOV, I recommend post #18 for BOV sounds and laughs. References: Blow-off Valve or BOV (Google) http://www.frozenboost.com/stpg.php?page_id=bov http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468038 http://forum.ebaumsworld.com/archive/index.php/t-7471.html http://www.mazdarotary.net/turbo.htm Mazter Dizazter in HybridZ. 240Z L28ET Project. See: Gollum. (#22) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131125&page=2 ktm in HybridZ. BOVs affect on Air Flow Rate. See: Tony D & Others. (#41 etc.) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125197&page=3 She continues to impress; drive-ability continues to be improved! Thanks, again, to all members of HZ who have written so many threads that has guided this project. Enjoying the ride! john