Wizzurp

This post just helped me tremendously on a 50's Chevy I'm building. Thank you!

Yep that looks like mine! It's a very cool little piece. Anyone looking for one? If not I'll stick it on my wall of weird L crap I've found over the years

Anyone ever seen one of these? I pulled one off my old motor before I sold it, kind of a cool little part, it's definitely larger than stock, I was wondering if these were common or worth anything? I figured I'd hold onto it as I'd never seen one on a car before.

02 definitely works, I can watch it swing the wideband on light throttle driving (closed loop) I wish I could communicate with the Ecu/see the values it sees. I'm going to try again with my speedo, if all else fails I'll put the stock rb one back in and see how it scales on my stock speedo/mark it for common speeds. Gauge lights turned out to be a pinched/grounding drivers side turn signal power wire, fixed that and no more popping fuses!

I live in Dallas

The turbine housing definitely can!

Thanks, it has been a very easy swap, nice and relaxed. I got my tach wired in with a 10k pullup resistor, fixed my drivers side door lock so the key works in the door now (coat hanger mod lol) and drove it around for an hour or so, it's a lot of fun! Car has a slight bog when it has been driving around for an extended period of time/you go wot, need to see what the wideband is doing when this happens, last time it happened i was driving into the sun and I couldnt see anything. Need to figure out why my speedo doesnt work. Also all my gauge lights stopped working randomly, need to look into that.

What turbine housing did you have on the holset? If it was a stock one that would definitely be your issue, You need something with a lot smaller ar. .60 or something similar would help spool on something like that quite a lot.

Yes, all of the rb20det harnesses you would receive are for rhd. Luckily the ecu is on our ds like the stock one is.

I used a 27x9x3" intercooler, basically any intercooler with an end to end width of about 27 inches fits perfectly with a 90 degree coupler on either end through the factory core support holes! Hope this helps.

Do you have a divided manifold? If not it'll make the spool that much crappier with a divided housing. That turbo will definitely get you to 400 with the other supporting mods.

Ok, pics in order: 1 pre swap, pre suspension, just one coil cut off per spring, actually rode very well! Rest showing swap, I attempted to show the intake/intercooler piping and whatnot. Also **** the rotation issues, ugh!!!!!

Ok, small progress recently due to time constraints, rolled my rear fenders, they clear nicely now. I was running an open maf due to space constraints, I finally got around to punching a hole in my core support under my intercooler piping to run a tube out for an air filter/intake. Seems to work nicely. Wideband is in after we welded in a bung (also welded in a flex section for the exhaust as I didn't like it solid) and it's holding a steady 11:1 even with the stock 280z fuel pump haha. Boost goes up to 14ish and tapers back to 10-11 at wot, seems pretty healthy for what it is. Did a quality rolling burnout in it the other day!

I've been holding onto mine in case I decide to use it for an air/water intercooler. Factory condensors work great for that.

I have a very nice one, not sure If I want to ship it though, can you not get new ones anymore?

I bought a cable that was nearly identical from jegs (their brand) for significantly cheaper than the lokar one. I ended up making my own bracket. Works like a charm.

Ok, I haven't had much time to work on my care recently. The exhaust is a full 3" straight setup, it's actually quieter than my 2.25" straight to can L28 exhaust. At least in the car... Bc coilovers are on as well as the new ball joints. They seem to work well, I need to roll my rear fenders as it's tearing the pass side tire up. May need to raise the booty up a little as the exhaust scrapes where it goes under the diff as well. Basic spal/autozone thermostated fan controller work well, just a single puller, I think my thermostat is stuck open though because it'll only come up to temp completely when stationary, it's about a third of the way up the gauge driving around. Car is a ton of fun, still need to drill a hole/weld in a bung for the wideband, need to run my line for the boost gauge and build some sort of plate to mount the gauges on. Need to figure out a shift boot badly.

Break down on my Datsun so far: Original purchase price of my car was 2100, clean title, running but munching coolant. Built a working L28e for about 30 dollars worth of parts, it has been together for a year, fairly healthy little motor. 1125 for my set of bc coilovers New brake master cylinder 55 Rb20det swap 1300 Compromised for a 27x9x2.5" intercooler 75 Four 90 degree 2.5" couplers 35ish bucks Assorted tubing/t bolt clamps had around the shop Spal 12" fan, also had laying around 650 for my crappy wheel/tire setup Plans/needs/stuff to do still: Figure out why I don't have speedo function Figure out a tach option Need to build an exhaust badly, going to be a shitty crush bent 3" tubing setup, not going for looks and 3" is overkill for my power goals anyways Need to procure a fan controller of some sort, probably a cheap hayes adjustable controller, shouldn't be too hard to get sorted Definitely need a new shifter boot to close off my cab Wire up my AEM wideband, waiting on the exhaust so I know where the actual sensor will sit Get my boost gauge plumbed Need to find a good place to mount the aforementioned shit Cut my suspension down and weld on my coilovers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Replace ball joints Definitely need to order an energy master kit, I have a lot of sloppy bushings and shit, same with the steering. Eventually I'm going to get an aluminum radiator designed for a KA 240sx (inlet and outlet both on the pass side) Drill out and remove quite a few brackets and other useless shit in the engine bay. Need to find some replacement heater hoses for the inside of my car, I would love to have heat in the winter! The heater hose routing should be easy in the bay, just cant run it in currently as one of my heater core lines leaks like mad Planning on socketing my ecu and using my moates ostrich (eprom emulator) for tuning my stock ecu, the coding doesnt look too bad Fix some assorted rust issues Rebuild drivers side door hinge (real saggy) Figure out how to get my damn door locks functioning

Wow, that's a good way to start! I will be posting a lot about the small detail stuff that people get sketched out by. I have a good few images of my progress, it really was quite an easy swap honestly, super easy to get it in, super easy to get it wired.

Ok, so I managed to do this swap in several hours but I wanted to do some documentation so others can have some visuals on how to do stuff/can learn from my mistakes. I'll update this with some pictures periodically. Car is a '78 280z, orange as hell, and has some minor rust floating around. I've got bc coilovers waiting to go on after I get everything exactly where I want it. Where is it now? I just finished my intercooler setup last night, need to build exhaust badly so I don't get fumigated.

Thank you for taking the time for making this, I had my car wired in in less than 30 minutes! Had to figure out my eccs relay wiring but that was it.