Wizzurp

Shrug, buy and then get quality heim joints from mcmaster for cheap af?

Man I used a cheapo autogauge tach with a 10k pullup and my rb has been showing rpm since I stuck it in.

Shaft speed and both manifold pressures (intake and exhaust) being logged will tell you what you need to do and what you are doing in the PR realm and clue you into whether you need to pop up a size on turbine wheel, compressor wheel, or turbine housing.

Gooootcha, my company manufactures turbos and I was going to say I'd never seen anything other than the standard three bolt flange. That is funny.

I was more confused about the spare two bolts on the flange haha

Wtf flange/turbo will be on this? That doesn't look real familiar to me.

They don't call it test and tune for nothing! Get out and **** with stuff man. Start low on launch rpm and work your way up. Or just say **** it and sit on the stall without the brake and see what she does.

If price is no concern, do it correctly and send it to a place that can either VSR balance it or 3D plane balance it. DIY is great and all but doing it yourself and then expecting it to operate consistently at 125,000 rpm while imbalanced is slightly detrimental to the lifespan of the turbo. You can mark stuff all you want but you cant account for the new oil slingers being different than the old. Just because components are balanced does not mean the chra is balanced as a whole. (I work for a turbo company and am in no way promoting us, just trying to help)

I'd like to hear other's definition of "keep the revs reasonable" I have my limiter set at 8k, I street the car, when I feel frisky it will spend a couple minutes at a time above 6k continuously. I hit the limiter ******* around quite often for what it's worth.

Interesting issue, I need to get a (non datsun) oil pressure gauge in mine, it seems to have declined a little but I've also got a little flake in my oil so I suspect mains are getting some wear as I've got no noise. I'lll pull mine and check it out this summer sometime.

If your factory harness is chewed up and you don't want to rebuild it then sure, it's worth it. If yours is in good shape like mine, there is nothing wrong with using it. Mine has been great for 7 months now, not a single wiring issue so far.

Done did.

Yep I'm on there too, if you could get the length/thread pitch for those bolts I would love you long time! The damn plenum is captured which is a pain because you cant just run whatever length bolts in them

I used the stock harness as it was in good shape, I partly used pat's guide and partly did my own thing, it was a very easy job to wire. Do you know what size bolts you ended up using for the forward facing intake manifold? I need to pick some up and don't have a hardware store near so I may just order them from mcmaster if you know exactly what'll fit. I bought a new oem nissan plenum gasket though so I'm set there. I noticed that booster line is some obscure m16-2 or something wonky

Fixed my brakes and shit, swapped a couple things in the bay to clean it up a little. Picked up a couple goodies for it! Forward facing intake manifold (upper one, I'm ebay cheap) Wiring specialties ls coil pack harness/set of ls coil packs (going to swap to those and sell my splitfires) Couple new fans to install as pushers as I have very little room in the bay for pullers Trying to close on a house (with a shop yay!) and then I'll finally have time to pull everything apart and do what I want. Need to swap a couple injector seals out as it's leaking a little fuel out the uppers. Overall car is still doing well after 7 months of the motor being in.

Yep, I'm using the stock tank/pump with my rb20, the pump will not have enough headroom for you though so you'll want an inline 255 or 044, the stock tank/hardlines will be fine though as long as you don't have high hp goals.

Yep, definitely something in there if your plug is getting smacked.

Lolol, buy a new one, yes it's reading wrong.

Stock feed and return have been working great for me so far. I used the stock skyline motor mounts as mine were in good shape too. I'm on stock 280z fuel pump ad it has been doing well (I watch my wideband like a hawk)

I've got three bolt top extreme low kits 4k front 5k rear, I've got them about 12 clicks from full hard and it's fantastic on the the street. Compliant enough to not lock under braking over small bumps, no skittering, and keeps my frame rails and exhaust from dragging. Love them so far, super easy install as well.

That looks kind of like a gts-r exhaust manifold, if so that's awesome!. The intake manifold is eccs style.

I know jag xj6 mounts are popular.

Ok, with the engine out of the car look at where the factory L mounts go. There is one large bolt hole and one small locator hole that I presume is to help keep the motor from not rotating without a trans. Literally drill a slot between the two the same width as the original large bolt hole and keep bringing it down even further. This will get you low enough to clear the hood easily.

Good lord yours looks a lot nicer than mine. Its the eBay upper plenum annunaki

Must have missed this. You will be fine on stock fuel lines if you don't plan on making 400+. Slot the stock mounts and use the Datsun trans mount and it'll bolt right up. If you don't slot you'll smack the hood with the intake manifold.