Wizzurp

They'll fit perfectly fine on stock body, especially with little tires like that.

You'll just get to spend money having your driveshaft shortened, not a bad thing just an additional expense.

Yep, stock rb mounts and Datsun trans mount retains your stock driveshaft. May as well send those back. My stock rb wiring harness was perfect to I saved 500 bucks by spending 20 minutes wiring it in myself. It's a super fun swap, makes decent power and is hilarious to drive. You will enjoy it. Also the stock z/zx pump will fuel it just fine. Mine has perfect afr's on the oem pump.

You have to if you want the motor to clear the hood/sit low enough.

Just a hacked/flipped stock pan, lots of better options but it was the cheapest. Pat1 on here makes a bunch of really nice looking pans for the community for very reasonable amounts of money. Rear sump is a requirement, no way around it so you have to make it work

After I wrote this post I realized my rb20 fuel rail has a damper built onto it along with the fpr on the back end so I think it'll be perfectly fine. I was curious to see how many people do away with it or keep it and what their reason was though. Thank you for the reply!

Will certainly do, they are in the mail, I'm excited to get fresh lines, fluid, fix my leaking drum cylinder and get them bigguns on there

Ok had my fuel outlet line off the pump come apart on me earlier today. Had some spare tubing in my car so I ran it straight from the pump to the feed hard line so I bypassed the fuel pulse damper. I guess what I want to know is will this have any sort of detrimental effect? Wideband seems to read the same

Okkkkkkkkkk, picked up some goodies recently. Snagged a cheap used mishimoto s13 ka radiator I'm going to make brackets for/use so I can have non shit filled original radiator and so i can have the coolant inlet/outlet both on the pass side. Picked up stainless brake lines I need to get in. The woman bought me a master bushing kit for my birthday so that'll keep me busy for quite awhile. Going to hopefully be picking up a set of s12+8 calipers as the car could definitely use more brakes.

Can you tap into the factory knock sensor (if you have something other than an L) or will that cause issues with the factory ecu?

I'd assume you just tune it to the freq you calculate knock should be at/then it filters that band

That looks nice, hides them well. You'll definitely like those coils, they pretty much never fail, are good to fairly high hp and are very cheap if you ever actually have to replace one.

There have been a few led setups made, I think they'd look good if they were diffused like some of the new oem crap. Original shape, maybe diffused led lighting around the perimeter of the brake lights and light up the whole thing when pressed?

30k should put you into turbo ls zone, that's a quality budget.

I cut the bottom portion of the shifter off right below the rubber filled area where it connects to the top. Beveled it and welded a 45ish degree piece of steel towards the back of the car, beveled it again. Cut the top threaded section of the shifter off and welded that on. Clears the plastic console now

Odd, mine are in the very front of the tunnel on the pass side right near the firewall.

You can always try to talk them down a bit, waving cash in someone's face can make them change their mind!

Really depends on what level of "perfection" you want. You can do it cheap or stupidly concourse level expensive. In the end if you think it's a good car for you and you like it, go for it. It's just work/money in the end.

Assuming the rest of it has rust too and you live in a rust prone area, I'd probably pay 3k, not sure how bad most of them are up there though.

They are nothing special, it's just a switch, polarity doesnt even matter. Check your underhood connectionsfor them first, they can get corroded and start to suck. It's two bullet connectors, undo them, clean the contacts with some fine sandpaper or something similar and grease them/plug them back in and see if you get an improvement.

I sent you a pm, hopefully it helps. If you have an engine hoist you can just lift the motor up/out of the crossmember a little and do the work with the motor still in the bay. The trans sits slightly forward (when using the stock datsun trans mount) I just made a new shifter that locates it back several inches, it's not bad. Also there aren't many forward facing intake manifolds for rb20's that are affordable (that don't suck) so most people just use the stock one

Stock skyline motor mounts and the stock Datsun transmission mounts! Had to slot the motor mounts down to get the motor lower but it was like a five minute job with a unibit

I used my stock rb mounts up front too, I slotted the stock crossmember side down to lower the front of the motor.

I paid 1299 for mine picked up, a little more than I wanted to spend but could be worse :/

Good luck man. It was the easiest swap I've ever done, you will have fun with it. It's hilarious fun to drive and getting it squared away was super simple.