74_5.0L_Z

I work with Rick(Speeder) at Kennedy Space Center. I have a BSME from the University of Florida. I have been working at the space center ever since I graduated in 1998. I work with the Main Propulsion System(MPS) of the space shuttle.

My Tilton HTOB specifies a 0.125 to 0.2 inch clearance to allow for disc wear. I run on the tight side, and haven't had any problems. I have replaced the disc three times, but each time before appreciable wear. My setup is at the highest end of the adjustment range of the threaded sleeve to get the 0.125" clearance. I could thread it down to gain more clearance, but am afraid of exceeding the 0.70" allowable total stroke. My clutch disengages about half-way through the pedal travel. My set-up includes the following parts. Tilton 74-875U master cylinder (.875 diameter) Tilton 61-601 Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing Tilton 61-612 Adapter King Cobra Clutch (5.0L Ford)

As far as running mid-13's, that will be no problem. With the bone stock 5.0L, and t5 in my car I ran 13.70s@ 100. (2850 lbs with driver) With only the addidion of 73mm MAF, 1,72 rollers, and 24# injectors, I ran 13.20s at 103 mph. (2850lbs with driver) With the addition of Edelbrock Performer Heads, Crower Cam, 70mm TB, and Cobra Intake, I have run a best of 12.69 @ 112 mph (with a slipping clutch). The bottom end of this motor is exactly as it came from the junk yard.

I would do the following: Put the 350# spring in the rear, and the 300# in the front. Remove the rear sway bar. Rear sway bars on the Z make them oversteer horribly, and unload the inside rear tire during corner exit.

I have been running an '89 5.0L motor in early 1974 260Z for three years now. The bottom end is completely stock(I haven't even inspected the main bearings). I have put Edelbrock aluminum heads, Crower 15511 Cam, 1.72 roller rockers, Cobra intake, 24# injectors, etc.. I have about 310 HP to the back tires. Now I'm about ready to build a bottom end. I've been considering my choices. 306 long rod 5.40 inch rod 3 inch stroke 1.8 rod ratio 331 stroker 5.40 inch rod 3.25" stroke 1.66 rod ratio 289 (+.030) 5.5 inch rod 2.87" stroke 1.916 rod ratio Which ever way I go, I plan to go with a solid roller set-up so that I can twist it a bit tighter (7500+ rpm). For this reason the 289 looks really good. My best friend has a 289 in his NHRA Super Stock that we routinely twist 8300 rpms (11.15 sec quarter mile times in a 3250 pound car).

When I rebuilt my front chassis(tubular front end), I moved the pivot point up 3/4" and out 1/4", but did not move it fore or aft. I had already moved the pivot of the lower control arms by the same amount, and I noticed that the aluminum delrin bushings were in a bind. I have custom T/C rods with a rod end at the rear. To increase caster, I moved the top of the struts back 3/4".

From what I understand, its is safe to put an EEC-IV computer from an automatic powered vehicle into one with a standard, but not the other way around. I can't recall why this is. I can look it up in the EEC-IV bible: "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control : All Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks 1988 to 1993" http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0837603013/ref=sib_dp_pt/102-8064934-4883336#reader-link I have a 5.0L and T5 in my 1974 5.0L Z, and I am using an A9P processor(automatic) without any troubles. I have tried a processor from a stick car (A9L), and I couldn't tell any difference.

I weighed my doors(hinges, glass, door panels, armrest) on my early 1974 Z while they were off. They weighed 67 lbs each. I would love to have a second set of doors that are just skins, or fiberglass. I could save another hundred pounds off the car. Its an Emod autocross/street car.

My cage is a little different than the others. I built it as a means of reconstructive surgery rather than as a means of supporting existing structure. I already had a completed 5.0L powered 260Z project that I was very happy with until I turned in front of an oncoming pickup. The front of my Z was destroyed, but none of the drivetrain, suspension, or the body behind the firewall was harmed. So, to salvage what I had, I cut the front off my car at the firewall and built a new chassis by fitting a 2.5" square tubing frame, roll cage and tubular front end.

In the current rev of my car, my motor is mounted similar to Terry's(front plate / mid plate. In the previous rev the motor was mounted on Fox body mustang rubber mounts and some custom steel brackets. In both cases, the position of the engine is the same, and a ujoint is required in the steering shaft(no big deal). These images show the current configuration. These image shows the old mounts and the old installation

I have dual 2.5" exhaust with an H-pipe and a pair of two chamber flow masters. I love the way it sounds. In order to get dual exhaust to fit with an exhaust exit on either side of the car, I had to remove the stock tank and install a fuel cell centered between the rear frame rails.

Yeah, I know how you feel. I buried my previous Z serial number RLS30-000481. We were together for eight happy years during which she received numerous transplants in order to keep her alive while I was in school. But alas, she succumbed to cancer shortly after I graduated from college. I'll always remember her but I have moved on. I have another Z that is completely rust free, and I never let her play in the rain.

I have looked at the Ackerman on the Z. The steering rack is slightly(~1/2") closer to the ball joint than the connection of the steering arm on the strut. Having the rack closer to the wheel center than the steering arm pivot increases Ackerman. So, yes, moving the rack back would increase ackerman. I have toyed with the idea of making a crossmember that allows fore and aft adjustment of the rack.

Don't think of it as us being on your back. Think of it as brotherly advise to someone we wish to keep from making the same stupid mistakes that we made. Its not that we don't want you to race. We just want you to be safe when you kick his A$$.

16x8 Centerline Pheonix(style 816) w 5" BS.

That is a good site, but not exactly what I was looking for. I want something that gives dimensions of all the bolt holes in the block in 3 space relative to the centerline of the crank, and the plane of the bellhousing (motor mount holes, bellhousing holes, exhaust flange holes, water pump/timng cover, etc...). I may have to mount an engine on a stand, do some careful measuring, and make my own drawing.

Thanks, You're no good to us dead or in jail. 8) Dan

Pete, You wouldn't happen to know of a site that shows the Ford engines with dimensions would you. It bothers me that ford doesn't offer CAD drawings showing the exterior dimesions of their engines. It would sure make swapping easier. Thanks, Dan McGrath

You'll find that the bellhousing fits nicely into the driveshaft tunnel when the motor is lowered down. I have to tilt the motor back to install four of the bellhousing bolts. I used steel plates of my own design when the motor was still rubber mounted. With the Alsil style crossmember, you might be able to lower the motor, and move it back if you went to a thinner style rubber mount like the ones used in a '64 comet. The rubber mounts from the Comet have a single stud that protrudes vertically from the rubber. Perhaps a flat plate could be welded on top of your crossmember that extends back to a new mounting point. You might be able to mount the motor lower and further back but still use the same crossmember.

I think it is a very bad idea to race at those speeds on the street. You or an innocent bystander is likely to get killed. Fast cars are fun and exhilarating but require a certain amount of restraint and responsibility. If you want to race, take it to a track. At the quarter mile, you can show off your acceleration. At an autocross, you can demonstrate the agility of the car. If you have to go 150mph, go to one of the track day events. They begin by sitting you down in a classroom and instructing you in driving technique, then they ride with you, and then when they're fairly certain that you won't kill yourself, they let you run by yourself. Typically, you'll get 4-5 half hour sessions on a track that will test the limits of car and driver. I don't want your next of kin telling us you are dead, paralyzed, or in jail.

Move the motor back until the front sump will just drop behind the crossmember. That is how I solved the problem. I also moved the drain plug in the front sump from the front to the bottom. My harmonic balancer is centered above the steering rack and is about 1" above the rack. The engine is mounted at 2.5 degrees nose up, and the differential has been adjusted to match. Another option is to do as Terry(blueovalZ) did, and move the cross member forward, but you will need adjustable T/C rods if you do. I wouldn't move the crossmember more than an inch, or you'll have too much caster. Here are two images showing the current installation, and one showing the pre-accident install. The engine location hasn't changed, only the mounting method.

I have built mounts for the stock fenders, and they are mounted on the car. I am not happy with the quality of the fenders (aftermarket repre steel), and I want some more room for tires. I will soon get the Subtle Z fiberglass kit after my bank account heals from doing the chassis. Here are some pictures taken of the car at the last reynolds event. http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z.jpg http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z2.JPG http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z3.jpg I also have a 3D Solid AutoCad model of the cage that I have been promising to post for a while now. I just got the file recovered after my old computer died, and I will post it if someone wants to host it.

If you go to the ChassisShop web site they list the weight per foot of tubing for the various OD and thicknesses. I am using the following 1.625 x 0.120 1.9 lbs/ft 1.625 x 0.083 1.4 lbs/ft 1.625 x 0.065 1.1 lbs/ft I haven't added up the total weight of the cage, but I do know that the car is 100 lbs lighter than before the cage install. However, a lot of thing were removed during the process(carpet, sound deadening, undercoat, bumper mounts, HVAC, etc...). Also, my cage involved cutting off the entire front end and building a tubular front end. If you look in my personel album, I have several pictures of the install

I used chromoloy (4130) tubing for my cage. I purchased it from http://www.chassisshop.com/index.html They have the best prices and selection of chromoloy that I've seen, plus they can do mandrel bending. The chromolly has a higher yield stress than the mild steel, but is a bit more expensive. However, by the time you finish the cage install, you will realize that the material costs are a small fraction of the overall cost of the cage install. The tubing inside the car is 0.120 wall (with some 0.083), and the tubing ahead of the firewall on my car is all 0.083 and 0.065. Another drawback(???) to chromoloy is that it must be TIG welded(pretty welds).

I just finished installing a cage in mine. I was very concerned about space, so I tried to get the main hoop as tight to the B-pilar as possible. I am extremely happy with the way it came out. I can lean the driver's seat back just as far as before the cage. The main hoop fits so tight at the front of the quarter window that I couldn't squeeze masking tape between the bar and the pillar. To get the spacing I wanted, I mounted the main hoop on top of gusset plate that are weled to the shelf above the seat belt monts and welded to the rocker panel. Here are some pictures showing the fit. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=627 http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=630