74_5.0L_Z

Pete, You wouldn't happen to know of a site that shows the Ford engines with dimensions would you. It bothers me that ford doesn't offer CAD drawings showing the exterior dimesions of their engines. It would sure make swapping easier. Thanks, Dan McGrath

You'll find that the bellhousing fits nicely into the driveshaft tunnel when the motor is lowered down. I have to tilt the motor back to install four of the bellhousing bolts. I used steel plates of my own design when the motor was still rubber mounted. With the Alsil style crossmember, you might be able to lower the motor, and move it back if you went to a thinner style rubber mount like the ones used in a '64 comet. The rubber mounts from the Comet have a single stud that protrudes vertically from the rubber. Perhaps a flat plate could be welded on top of your crossmember that extends back to a new mounting point. You might be able to mount the motor lower and further back but still use the same crossmember.

I think it is a very bad idea to race at those speeds on the street. You or an innocent bystander is likely to get killed. Fast cars are fun and exhilarating but require a certain amount of restraint and responsibility. If you want to race, take it to a track. At the quarter mile, you can show off your acceleration. At an autocross, you can demonstrate the agility of the car. If you have to go 150mph, go to one of the track day events. They begin by sitting you down in a classroom and instructing you in driving technique, then they ride with you, and then when they're fairly certain that you won't kill yourself, they let you run by yourself. Typically, you'll get 4-5 half hour sessions on a track that will test the limits of car and driver. I don't want your next of kin telling us you are dead, paralyzed, or in jail.

Move the motor back until the front sump will just drop behind the crossmember. That is how I solved the problem. I also moved the drain plug in the front sump from the front to the bottom. My harmonic balancer is centered above the steering rack and is about 1" above the rack. The engine is mounted at 2.5 degrees nose up, and the differential has been adjusted to match. Another option is to do as Terry(blueovalZ) did, and move the cross member forward, but you will need adjustable T/C rods if you do. I wouldn't move the crossmember more than an inch, or you'll have too much caster. Here are two images showing the current installation, and one showing the pre-accident install. The engine location hasn't changed, only the mounting method.

I have built mounts for the stock fenders, and they are mounted on the car. I am not happy with the quality of the fenders (aftermarket repre steel), and I want some more room for tires. I will soon get the Subtle Z fiberglass kit after my bank account heals from doing the chassis. Here are some pictures taken of the car at the last reynolds event. http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z.jpg http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z2.JPG http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z3.jpg I also have a 3D Solid AutoCad model of the cage that I have been promising to post for a while now. I just got the file recovered after my old computer died, and I will post it if someone wants to host it.

If you go to the ChassisShop web site they list the weight per foot of tubing for the various OD and thicknesses. I am using the following 1.625 x 0.120 1.9 lbs/ft 1.625 x 0.083 1.4 lbs/ft 1.625 x 0.065 1.1 lbs/ft I haven't added up the total weight of the cage, but I do know that the car is 100 lbs lighter than before the cage install. However, a lot of thing were removed during the process(carpet, sound deadening, undercoat, bumper mounts, HVAC, etc...). Also, my cage involved cutting off the entire front end and building a tubular front end. If you look in my personel album, I have several pictures of the install

I used chromoloy (4130) tubing for my cage. I purchased it from http://www.chassisshop.com/index.html They have the best prices and selection of chromoloy that I've seen, plus they can do mandrel bending. The chromolly has a higher yield stress than the mild steel, but is a bit more expensive. However, by the time you finish the cage install, you will realize that the material costs are a small fraction of the overall cost of the cage install. The tubing inside the car is 0.120 wall (with some 0.083), and the tubing ahead of the firewall on my car is all 0.083 and 0.065. Another drawback(???) to chromoloy is that it must be TIG welded(pretty welds).

I just finished installing a cage in mine. I was very concerned about space, so I tried to get the main hoop as tight to the B-pilar as possible. I am extremely happy with the way it came out. I can lean the driver's seat back just as far as before the cage. The main hoop fits so tight at the front of the quarter window that I couldn't squeeze masking tape between the bar and the pillar. To get the spacing I wanted, I mounted the main hoop on top of gusset plate that are weled to the shelf above the seat belt monts and welded to the rocker panel. Here are some pictures showing the fit. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=627 http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=630

When I had my exhaust made, I took the day off work to baby-sit the technician at the shop. He and I bumped heads over several key points. At one point, he threw a wrench across the shop when I insisted that the H pipe be the same diameter as the rest of the tubing. I stood my ground and got it made like I wanted. I am very happy with the results. It is important to be very specific with shops, and to verify that you get what you asked for. Often they do things the way that they want to rather than what you want. For details that are important, be there to supervise. It is easier to get it done right the first time than it is to get them to correct it. Besides, you can't uncut the radiator support, or unbend the IC.

Here is a link to a previous thread that covered this pretty well. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=94250&highlight=#94250 Neapco P/N 2-2-899-1

Also make sure that the U-joints are phased correctly(the centerline of the cups on both ends should be on the same linedrawn down the length of the shaft). Even a slight phasing problem will cause bad vibes.

I would love to do a 351W with an EFI setup. Here's what I would do: Get the 351W Get a GT40 (or cobra) intake for the windsor( the upper is the same as 5.0 but the lower is different) Use an EEC-IV computer and wiring harness from 5.0L (89 - 93) A9L or A9P processor Get 24# or 30# injectors and matching C&L MAF 75 mm TB The EEC-IV computer adapts very well since it is a mass air computer. Also the 351W has the same firing order as the 5.0L. I had a 351W in my old 1970 mach1; it was a torque monster.

I too would be interested. I am building mine as an E-mod autocross car, and the only way to approach the minimum weight is to replace almost everything with fiberglass.

Have you tried Summit Racing? Surely you can find something in AFCOs extensive and extremely cool catalog to round out a $25.00 order.

Just to muddy the waters further, I'll post my set-up. 250#/in rear 200#/in front koni reds single adjust struts 1" front anti-sway bar no rear sway bar I autocross the car, drag race it, and drive it on the street. The car is well balanced IMO, is not too uncomfortable on the street, and still cut 1.8 sec 60' times on street tires(Dunlop SP8000). Stiff for the street is what my set-up is. If you go much stiffer, the car will beat you and itself to death, and will scim across bumpy corners like a stone. Another thing to consider is that the Z is pretty flimsy unless reinforced. Spring rates greater than about 250 turn the car are too stiff for the stock chassis.

If they really are Boss heads, sell them, and buy some aftermarket aluminum heads(Edelbrock, Canfield, AFR). The aftermarket heads will flow much better(particularly on the exhaust side), will be much lighter, will provide more space, and will be easier to find headers for. If they are Boss heads you can get nearly the price of a set of aluminum heads by selling them. The intake will also have to be sold and replaced.

The kits out there that convert the carb intake to EFI are extremely cool looking, but I don't think they'll work very well for a naturally aspirated 5.0 engine. If you look at the better EFI intakes(performer, Holley GT40), you will notice that they have a large plenum area, and you will notice that as the plenum area gets smaller (performer RPM, Victor) the usable rpm range starts and finishes at a higher rpm. The carb style intakes have an extremely small plenum area, and would kill low rpm torque, but would be great for high rpms (above 6000). Unfortunately, the 5.0L is limited to less than 7000 rpms with the hydraulic roller lifters, and computer limited to 6250(unless modified). All this rant is limited to NA applications, I know that many people are quite happy with these set-ups when combined with a supercharger. I am using the Cobra 5.0L intake and 70mm TB. It provides great torque from 1500 rpms all the way through 6250, plus it is the least expensive intake that yopu can get (399.00 through Summit). Remember that what you want from your engine is a broad flat torque curve. It is the area under the torque vs rpm curve that counts

I too have wondered about "anodic protection" for cars. I know that it is used in the boating industry, but have never seen an automotive application.

I assume that you are putting the extra constraint (rod end) on the upper half of the steering linkage. Mine is on the lower half so I had to slide it on before welding the u-joint. My harmonic balancer is about 1" above rack, but about in same front to rear position(maybe a little further back). I moved the drain plug for the front sump from the front to the bottom to gain clearance on crossmember.

I used Dunlop SP8000 (245/50/15) for a while. They were pretty good in the rain. My rear suspenion was set-up with zero toe. You should NEVER EVER have toe out in the rear. I got caught out in the rain once coming back from the drag strip with 4 bald auto cross tires on the car(Kumho Victoracers). I drove the entire 35 miles home at about 40 miles/hr in 5th gear. I was still all over the road any time I hit a puddle. These cars are very scary in the rain with bald tires.

The other option is to use a hydraulic throw out bearing (HTOB) such as the units made by Tilton and Quartermaster. I am using the Tilton unit which consists of P/N 61-601 bearing, 61-612 adapter, and 74-875U clutch master cylinder. The cool things about the HTOB is that it deletes all the mechanical linkage(no fork), and fits in really tight places. The down sides to the HTOB is the price (master cylinder, hydraulic throw-out bearing, and adapter $436.00), and working on it (the transmission has to be removed for access to the HTOB. I have had my setup for three years. I have had to work on it twice; both instance were caused by user error.

In the first iteration of my 74 5.0L powered 260, I used a 3 core datsun 280Z radiator with no problem. The engine had the Ford clutch fan, no shroud, and about 8" clearance between the fan and radiator. The car would idle all day long in 95 degree traffic and never get over 185 (thermostat setting). I have since switched to a griffin 24 x 19 radiator, and a '95 mustang electric fan. Again I am having no problems. My 5.0L has about 350 hp at the flywheel.

I originally put my motor in with the 87-93 stock intake. I have since gone to the '93 Cobra intake. The clearance at the hood latch is better with the cobra intake than with the stock unit. I am using Dynomax block hugger headers (for now). The dynomax were the only headers that I found to fit when I first did the swap. I was using fox mustang mounts initially, but during the rebuild after the accident have switched to a front plate/mid plate set-up. One of my next mods is going to be some custom full length headers (there is a ton of room for headers now that the motor mounts are out of the way).

Josh, What angle is the engine set at? If the angle is high, then the front of the engine will be raised. Try raising the tailshaft of the transmission and seeing if the clearance gets better. Then measure the angle (angle finder on the starter housing). Adjust diff angle to match. I am using dual 2.5" exhaust with an H-pipe and two flow master two chamber mufflers. I like the sound of mine most of the time, in fact, I get a lot of compliments. Sometimes it's just too loud. The hard part about running dual exhaust is moving the gas tank. I replaced my stock tank with a 16 gallon polyethelene fuel cell centered between the rear frame rails. If I were going to do it again, I would run a single 3" exhaust. If the single 3" exhaust is well made, it will flow plenty well enough to support 400hp. Other benefits are that it looks more stock(sleeper), and one muffler is cheaper than two. Oh yeah, in two years of driving the car the manifold never touched the hood(the motor torques the other way. Dan

Josh, The tightest clearance that I have between the hood and engine is the breather fitting on the MAF that goes to the oil filler tube. Mine clears the hood by about 1/8". Clearance gets better as you increase the set back of the engine, and obviously as you set the engine lower in the car. My engine is set so that the back of the block is ~1" ahead of the firewall, the centerline of the front of the crank is slightly below the top of the frame rails, and at an angle of 2.5 degrees(transmission angled down). I have raised the rear of the differential to get the same angle on the diff. The engine is centered left to right. With the engine in this location the EFI clears the stock hood, and I can (just barely) get to the bellhousing bolts. With the stock hood latch I had about 0.030" clearance between the latch and upper manifold. I have since removed the stock latch. Oh, and the later (94-95) intake makes less power. That is why the 94-95 had less power even though they went to an electric fan. Dan