74_5.0L_Z

In the current rev of my car, my motor is mounted similar to Terry's(front plate / mid plate. In the previous rev the motor was mounted on Fox body mustang rubber mounts and some custom steel brackets. In both cases, the position of the engine is the same, and a ujoint is required in the steering shaft(no big deal). These images show the current configuration. These image shows the old mounts and the old installation

I have dual 2.5" exhaust with an H-pipe and a pair of two chamber flow masters. I love the way it sounds. In order to get dual exhaust to fit with an exhaust exit on either side of the car, I had to remove the stock tank and install a fuel cell centered between the rear frame rails.

Yeah, I know how you feel. I buried my previous Z serial number RLS30-000481. We were together for eight happy years during which she received numerous transplants in order to keep her alive while I was in school. But alas, she succumbed to cancer shortly after I graduated from college. I'll always remember her but I have moved on. I have another Z that is completely rust free, and I never let her play in the rain.

I have looked at the Ackerman on the Z. The steering rack is slightly(~1/2") closer to the ball joint than the connection of the steering arm on the strut. Having the rack closer to the wheel center than the steering arm pivot increases Ackerman. So, yes, moving the rack back would increase ackerman. I have toyed with the idea of making a crossmember that allows fore and aft adjustment of the rack.

Don't think of it as us being on your back. Think of it as brotherly advise to someone we wish to keep from making the same stupid mistakes that we made. Its not that we don't want you to race. We just want you to be safe when you kick his A$$.

16x8 Centerline Pheonix(style 816) w 5" BS.

That is a good site, but not exactly what I was looking for. I want something that gives dimensions of all the bolt holes in the block in 3 space relative to the centerline of the crank, and the plane of the bellhousing (motor mount holes, bellhousing holes, exhaust flange holes, water pump/timng cover, etc...). I may have to mount an engine on a stand, do some careful measuring, and make my own drawing.

Thanks, You're no good to us dead or in jail. 8) Dan

Pete, You wouldn't happen to know of a site that shows the Ford engines with dimensions would you. It bothers me that ford doesn't offer CAD drawings showing the exterior dimesions of their engines. It would sure make swapping easier. Thanks, Dan McGrath

You'll find that the bellhousing fits nicely into the driveshaft tunnel when the motor is lowered down. I have to tilt the motor back to install four of the bellhousing bolts. I used steel plates of my own design when the motor was still rubber mounted. With the Alsil style crossmember, you might be able to lower the motor, and move it back if you went to a thinner style rubber mount like the ones used in a '64 comet. The rubber mounts from the Comet have a single stud that protrudes vertically from the rubber. Perhaps a flat plate could be welded on top of your crossmember that extends back to a new mounting point. You might be able to mount the motor lower and further back but still use the same crossmember.

I think it is a very bad idea to race at those speeds on the street. You or an innocent bystander is likely to get killed. Fast cars are fun and exhilarating but require a certain amount of restraint and responsibility. If you want to race, take it to a track. At the quarter mile, you can show off your acceleration. At an autocross, you can demonstrate the agility of the car. If you have to go 150mph, go to one of the track day events. They begin by sitting you down in a classroom and instructing you in driving technique, then they ride with you, and then when they're fairly certain that you won't kill yourself, they let you run by yourself. Typically, you'll get 4-5 half hour sessions on a track that will test the limits of car and driver. I don't want your next of kin telling us you are dead, paralyzed, or in jail.

Move the motor back until the front sump will just drop behind the crossmember. That is how I solved the problem. I also moved the drain plug in the front sump from the front to the bottom. My harmonic balancer is centered above the steering rack and is about 1" above the rack. The engine is mounted at 2.5 degrees nose up, and the differential has been adjusted to match. Another option is to do as Terry(blueovalZ) did, and move the cross member forward, but you will need adjustable T/C rods if you do. I wouldn't move the crossmember more than an inch, or you'll have too much caster. Here are two images showing the current installation, and one showing the pre-accident install. The engine location hasn't changed, only the mounting method.

I have built mounts for the stock fenders, and they are mounted on the car. I am not happy with the quality of the fenders (aftermarket repre steel), and I want some more room for tires. I will soon get the Subtle Z fiberglass kit after my bank account heals from doing the chassis. Here are some pictures taken of the car at the last reynolds event. http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z.jpg http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z2.JPG http://www.dirtcheaprims.com/ztuff/sezs3/pics/5point0Z3.jpg I also have a 3D Solid AutoCad model of the cage that I have been promising to post for a while now. I just got the file recovered after my old computer died, and I will post it if someone wants to host it.

If you go to the ChassisShop web site they list the weight per foot of tubing for the various OD and thicknesses. I am using the following 1.625 x 0.120 1.9 lbs/ft 1.625 x 0.083 1.4 lbs/ft 1.625 x 0.065 1.1 lbs/ft I haven't added up the total weight of the cage, but I do know that the car is 100 lbs lighter than before the cage install. However, a lot of thing were removed during the process(carpet, sound deadening, undercoat, bumper mounts, HVAC, etc...). Also, my cage involved cutting off the entire front end and building a tubular front end. If you look in my personel album, I have several pictures of the install

I used chromoloy (4130) tubing for my cage. I purchased it from http://www.chassisshop.com/index.html They have the best prices and selection of chromoloy that I've seen, plus they can do mandrel bending. The chromolly has a higher yield stress than the mild steel, but is a bit more expensive. However, by the time you finish the cage install, you will realize that the material costs are a small fraction of the overall cost of the cage install. The tubing inside the car is 0.120 wall (with some 0.083), and the tubing ahead of the firewall on my car is all 0.083 and 0.065. Another drawback(???) to chromoloy is that it must be TIG welded(pretty welds).

I just finished installing a cage in mine. I was very concerned about space, so I tried to get the main hoop as tight to the B-pilar as possible. I am extremely happy with the way it came out. I can lean the driver's seat back just as far as before the cage. The main hoop fits so tight at the front of the quarter window that I couldn't squeeze masking tape between the bar and the pillar. To get the spacing I wanted, I mounted the main hoop on top of gusset plate that are weled to the shelf above the seat belt monts and welded to the rocker panel. Here are some pictures showing the fit. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=627 http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=630

When I had my exhaust made, I took the day off work to baby-sit the technician at the shop. He and I bumped heads over several key points. At one point, he threw a wrench across the shop when I insisted that the H pipe be the same diameter as the rest of the tubing. I stood my ground and got it made like I wanted. I am very happy with the results. It is important to be very specific with shops, and to verify that you get what you asked for. Often they do things the way that they want to rather than what you want. For details that are important, be there to supervise. It is easier to get it done right the first time than it is to get them to correct it. Besides, you can't uncut the radiator support, or unbend the IC.

Here is a link to a previous thread that covered this pretty well. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=94250&highlight=#94250 Neapco P/N 2-2-899-1

Also make sure that the U-joints are phased correctly(the centerline of the cups on both ends should be on the same linedrawn down the length of the shaft). Even a slight phasing problem will cause bad vibes.

I would love to do a 351W with an EFI setup. Here's what I would do: Get the 351W Get a GT40 (or cobra) intake for the windsor( the upper is the same as 5.0 but the lower is different) Use an EEC-IV computer and wiring harness from 5.0L (89 - 93) A9L or A9P processor Get 24# or 30# injectors and matching C&L MAF 75 mm TB The EEC-IV computer adapts very well since it is a mass air computer. Also the 351W has the same firing order as the 5.0L. I had a 351W in my old 1970 mach1; it was a torque monster.

I too would be interested. I am building mine as an E-mod autocross car, and the only way to approach the minimum weight is to replace almost everything with fiberglass.

Have you tried Summit Racing? Surely you can find something in AFCOs extensive and extremely cool catalog to round out a $25.00 order.

Just to muddy the waters further, I'll post my set-up. 250#/in rear 200#/in front koni reds single adjust struts 1" front anti-sway bar no rear sway bar I autocross the car, drag race it, and drive it on the street. The car is well balanced IMO, is not too uncomfortable on the street, and still cut 1.8 sec 60' times on street tires(Dunlop SP8000). Stiff for the street is what my set-up is. If you go much stiffer, the car will beat you and itself to death, and will scim across bumpy corners like a stone. Another thing to consider is that the Z is pretty flimsy unless reinforced. Spring rates greater than about 250 turn the car are too stiff for the stock chassis.

If they really are Boss heads, sell them, and buy some aftermarket aluminum heads(Edelbrock, Canfield, AFR). The aftermarket heads will flow much better(particularly on the exhaust side), will be much lighter, will provide more space, and will be easier to find headers for. If they are Boss heads you can get nearly the price of a set of aluminum heads by selling them. The intake will also have to be sold and replaced.

The kits out there that convert the carb intake to EFI are extremely cool looking, but I don't think they'll work very well for a naturally aspirated 5.0 engine. If you look at the better EFI intakes(performer, Holley GT40), you will notice that they have a large plenum area, and you will notice that as the plenum area gets smaller (performer RPM, Victor) the usable rpm range starts and finishes at a higher rpm. The carb style intakes have an extremely small plenum area, and would kill low rpm torque, but would be great for high rpms (above 6000). Unfortunately, the 5.0L is limited to less than 7000 rpms with the hydraulic roller lifters, and computer limited to 6250(unless modified). All this rant is limited to NA applications, I know that many people are quite happy with these set-ups when combined with a supercharger. I am using the Cobra 5.0L intake and 70mm TB. It provides great torque from 1500 rpms all the way through 6250, plus it is the least expensive intake that yopu can get (399.00 through Summit). Remember that what you want from your engine is a broad flat torque curve. It is the area under the torque vs rpm curve that counts