74_5.0L_Z

I was wondering.... Are both ends of the new CV axle able to change length? I ask this question because the old outer was fixed in length and the old inner could telescope to compensate for changes in length. If both ends of the new CV axle are free to telescope you may have a problem. You will have added an additional degree of freedom to the axle without adding an additional constraint. This will cause the position of the axle to be indeterminate, and may lead to vibration.

I am running 245/45/16 tires on the back of mine (kumho victoracer V700) on centerline 16 x 8 wheels and 5" back space without any problems. I have the Ground-Control coil-overs on all 4 corners. I have also run 245/50/15 Dunlop SP8000 on the rear with no problem. The 16" wheels give better clearance than the 15" wheels.

1974 260Z 2.5" square tube frame full cage with tubular front end (replaced after an accident) 1989 5.0L and T5 transmisssion Edelbrock Performer Heads Crower 15511 Hydraulic Roller Cam Ford Motorsports 1.72 roller rockers C&L 73mm MAF BBK 65mm TB Ford Motorsports 24# injectors Cobra Intake Bottom end stock w/ 200K miles 11.75" vented rotor and 4 piston Outlaw caliper on front 10.75" vented rotors and 4 piston Outlaw calipers on rear Ground Control coilovers (250#/in on rear 200#/in on front) Suspension Tecniques 1" front anti-roll bar 2700 # with fuel and driver 12.42 @ 113 mph in autocross trim

I have a 1989 5.0L in my 1974 260z. The car is not set-up for drag racing (I''m into autocross). The engine came from a junk yard out of a wrecked 1989 mustang highway patrol car. With a bone stock 5.0L engine and t5 tranny, the car ran 13.70's at 100mph (2850 with driver and 16 gal of gas). I added 1.72 roller rockers, a 73mm mass air and 24# injectors, and the car ran 13.20 @ 103 (still 2850) I added edelbrock aluminum heads, Crower 15511 cam, 65mm TB, and a cobra intake, and the car ran 12.42 at 113 (2700 lb). This is all with the stock high milage bottom end. I've never even looked at the main bearings. Next, I plan to build a 331 stroker with a little more compression. I'm hoping for some 11 sec passes with the car in autocross trim.

Is it possible that you are bottoming the struts? You said you lowered the car. How much have you lowered the car? Have you sectioned the struts? If you bottom out the front struts, the car will push badly, and no amount of additional sway bar on the rear will correct it.

To align the motor in the X-Y plane (looking down on it), I just measured the distance from the frame rails to the center of the crank in front, and from the frame to the center of the output shaft in the rear. My engine is centered so I needed 12.55 inches from frame to center. I used squares and level to assure that I was measuring perpendicular to the frame.

The Inlet is on the drivers side. I am using the stock water pump from NAPA, and a Griffen Aluminum radiator (24x19 Ford universal). It runs very cool. The radiator was $189.95 from Summit.

By "in phase", I mean that the u-joint caps are in the same plane. I clamped the u-joints to a flat surface so that the cups from each u-joint were flat and parallel to assure correct alignment before welding. There will be a little slop because the shaft is slightly smaller than 5/8". To alleviate this, I ground the welded edge of the new u-joint into a smooth radius, and positioned the rod end to butt against the weld. By doing this the shaft is positively centered within the rod end.

I am using a 5/8" to 5/8" smooth bore universal joint from Sweet Mfg. To install the u-joint and support, I cut the original shaft, slid the rod end support over the shaft, and welded the u-joint in place. When you install the u-joint be certain that the new u-joint is phased with the old one or it will bind. Also, be careful not to overheat the u-joint or you'll burn the covers on the bearing caps. Here is a picture showing my installation.

The deep drive shaft tunnel of the Z is very important to the overall rigidity of the car. I would be careful cutting it without some good reinforcement. Why do you want the mufflers under the car? I would think that would cause resonance inside the car. One thing I have considered is mounting a single dual in/dual out muffler in the driveshaft tunnel behind the transmission. In the 280Z, I believe that there is a wide section where the catalytic converter was mounted. Currently, I have dual 2.5" exhaust with (2) two chamber flowmasters mounted in the back on either side. To do this though, I had to get rid of the stock gas tank, and mount a fuel cell centered between the rear frame rails.

There are two reasons for the slow response to your query: First, there are far fewer member with Ford engines in their cars. Second, the 1986 5.0L fuel injection is an animal unto itself. It was the first year for the 5.0L to be fuel injected, and was noted to be problematic. The fuel injection system on the 5.0L was improved in 1987 with the introduction of the EEC-IV computer, and improved again in 1988 with the introduction of the Mass Air version of the EEC-IV. My suggestion would be to dump the 1986 fuel injection and update to the 1988-1993 version. Better yet, get an entire engine with the wiring harness and computer(1989 - 1991 preferably). These packages are plentiful and relatively cheap. THe 1986 engine had inferior heads, intake manifold, pistons with no valve reliefs, and other idiosyncracies that make it less desirable than the later engines. Good luck, Dan McGrath

I have a T5 and 5.0L in my Z and an R200 differential. The T5 has the following gear rations: 1st 3.35 2nd 1.99 3rd 1.33 4th 1.00 5th 0.68 My R200 has a 3.545 to 1 gear ratio. First gear is not very useful on the street. I start out in second gear most of the time. I feel that a 3.36 to 1 rear gear ratio would be more comfortable to drive on the street. Some of the Ford Motorsport T5s come with a 2.95 to 1 first gear ratio. I think this would make first gear more useful; however the ford motorsport T5 also has a 0.63 to 1 fifth gear which makes 5th gear a dog.

I am using the following parts with my T5: Tilton P/N 61-601 Hydraulic throw out bearing Tilton P/N 61-612 Adapter (replaces input bearing support on T5) Tilton P/N 74-875U clutch master cylinder You can get these parts from http://www.colemanracing.com

I'm sorry, but the whole time I was watching the video, I kept expecting to see clowns, elephants, and the freak show acts. Drifting is not racing. I may be old school, but all I could think while watching the video was, "What a bunch of idiots." Sorry, just my opinion. I don't want SCCA sanctioning this stuff. If I want real drifting, I'll watch world rally or World of Outlaws sprint cars.

One thing I consider to be of utmost importance is "overdrive". Without overdrive, you will not enjoy driving this thing on the highway. With a T5 in 5th gear (0.68 to 1), 24.7" tires(245/50/15), and a 3.545 rear gear ratio you will be running 2300 rpm at 70 mph, and 4900 rpm at 150 mph. With a C4 (not including slippage) you will be running 3400 rpm at 70 mph, and 6000 rpm at 124 mph. Whether you get a T5, Tremec, or an automatic with overdrive, get a tranny with overdrive!!!!!!

I work with Rick(Speeder) at Kennedy Space Center. I have a BSME from the University of Florida. I have been working at the space center ever since I graduated in 1998. I work with the Main Propulsion System(MPS) of the space shuttle.

My Tilton HTOB specifies a 0.125 to 0.2 inch clearance to allow for disc wear. I run on the tight side, and haven't had any problems. I have replaced the disc three times, but each time before appreciable wear. My setup is at the highest end of the adjustment range of the threaded sleeve to get the 0.125" clearance. I could thread it down to gain more clearance, but am afraid of exceeding the 0.70" allowable total stroke. My clutch disengages about half-way through the pedal travel. My set-up includes the following parts. Tilton 74-875U master cylinder (.875 diameter) Tilton 61-601 Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing Tilton 61-612 Adapter King Cobra Clutch (5.0L Ford)

As far as running mid-13's, that will be no problem. With the bone stock 5.0L, and t5 in my car I ran 13.70s@ 100. (2850 lbs with driver) With only the addidion of 73mm MAF, 1,72 rollers, and 24# injectors, I ran 13.20s at 103 mph. (2850lbs with driver) With the addition of Edelbrock Performer Heads, Crower Cam, 70mm TB, and Cobra Intake, I have run a best of 12.69 @ 112 mph (with a slipping clutch). The bottom end of this motor is exactly as it came from the junk yard.

I would do the following: Put the 350# spring in the rear, and the 300# in the front. Remove the rear sway bar. Rear sway bars on the Z make them oversteer horribly, and unload the inside rear tire during corner exit.

I have been running an '89 5.0L motor in early 1974 260Z for three years now. The bottom end is completely stock(I haven't even inspected the main bearings). I have put Edelbrock aluminum heads, Crower 15511 Cam, 1.72 roller rockers, Cobra intake, 24# injectors, etc.. I have about 310 HP to the back tires. Now I'm about ready to build a bottom end. I've been considering my choices. 306 long rod 5.40 inch rod 3 inch stroke 1.8 rod ratio 331 stroker 5.40 inch rod 3.25" stroke 1.66 rod ratio 289 (+.030) 5.5 inch rod 2.87" stroke 1.916 rod ratio Which ever way I go, I plan to go with a solid roller set-up so that I can twist it a bit tighter (7500+ rpm). For this reason the 289 looks really good. My best friend has a 289 in his NHRA Super Stock that we routinely twist 8300 rpms (11.15 sec quarter mile times in a 3250 pound car).

When I rebuilt my front chassis(tubular front end), I moved the pivot point up 3/4" and out 1/4", but did not move it fore or aft. I had already moved the pivot of the lower control arms by the same amount, and I noticed that the aluminum delrin bushings were in a bind. I have custom T/C rods with a rod end at the rear. To increase caster, I moved the top of the struts back 3/4".

From what I understand, its is safe to put an EEC-IV computer from an automatic powered vehicle into one with a standard, but not the other way around. I can't recall why this is. I can look it up in the EEC-IV bible: "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control : All Ford/Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks 1988 to 1993" http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0837603013/ref=sib_dp_pt/102-8064934-4883336#reader-link I have a 5.0L and T5 in my 1974 5.0L Z, and I am using an A9P processor(automatic) without any troubles. I have tried a processor from a stick car (A9L), and I couldn't tell any difference.

I weighed my doors(hinges, glass, door panels, armrest) on my early 1974 Z while they were off. They weighed 67 lbs each. I would love to have a second set of doors that are just skins, or fiberglass. I could save another hundred pounds off the car. Its an Emod autocross/street car.

My cage is a little different than the others. I built it as a means of reconstructive surgery rather than as a means of supporting existing structure. I already had a completed 5.0L powered 260Z project that I was very happy with until I turned in front of an oncoming pickup. The front of my Z was destroyed, but none of the drivetrain, suspension, or the body behind the firewall was harmed. So, to salvage what I had, I cut the front off my car at the firewall and built a new chassis by fitting a 2.5" square tubing frame, roll cage and tubular front end.

In the current rev of my car, my motor is mounted similar to Terry's(front plate / mid plate. In the previous rev the motor was mounted on Fox body mustang rubber mounts and some custom steel brackets. In both cases, the position of the engine is the same, and a ujoint is required in the steering shaft(no big deal). These images show the current configuration. These image shows the old mounts and the old installation