Xnke
-
Posts
1985 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Xnke
-
-
It's a Mercedes 280D, old Mercedes.
-
Honestly, if it passes a tailpipe sniffer it needs to be legal. That should be the end of the discussion; in my opinion.
Stuff like this just costs me more in tax money, fees, penalties, state job wages, and headaches. It never really solves a pollution problem.
-
You're missing the bellows...that's just a solid pipe slid in place, as a slip joint. It'll always leak like that until it heats up.
Either find the proper stainless bellows and clamps, or figure out a good way to seal the slip joint.
-
That is the AAR, auxilary air recirculation valve.
It's a compressor bypass valve that prevents turbocharger compressor damage.
I'd not just block that off, if I was you. I'd either replace it, or block it off and use an external compressor bypass valve, as mentioned above.
-
I wish I had the income to support that kind of habit. Perhaps one day; in the not-so-distant future...
Need to find a job as a wrench, or push my side business to the front and make it my business.
-
Check your injectors; look for a 36V spike or so at the end of the injector pulse. it SHOULD be there...if it's not, then it's getting shunted into something else.
The biggest noise issues with MS-V3.0 are INSIDE the box! As long as you are running shielded wiring for the RPM input, and your coil and plug wires are not across your sensor wiring, then the biggest noise contributors are going to be the alternator and then the PWM flyback circuits installed on the mainboard...the PWM idle circuit can also contribute.
The PWM flyback circuits draw power directly from the same pin that feeds the main processor!
-
SleeperZ, solder a 100uF cap between the center pin of Q3 and the center pin of Q9. Negative lead of the electrolytic cap goes to the center pin of Q3.
That's the "stage 1" noise mod...from there we go into cutting traces, lifting pins, pulling outside wires into the case, ect.
-
And you'll want a bigger one!
(I have a Sieg 7x12, and then bought a 1947 Atlas-Craftsman 12x36!)
-
Still looking at battey relocation, going to see about getting a PC925 battery to stash in the spare tire well. it's too small to hold a 17" wheel with the proper offset, mostly due to my smashing about with a hammer to get it straight-ish again when I repaired the rear deck of the car.
-
I've used the Cone Engineering parts for a little while, and they work pretty well...I can't feel a difference and so far the dyno can't tell either.
-
How do the bearing surfaces look? Any scoring or marks in the top-side of the cam towers?
Two cams failing this way, something's not right in the lube flowchart.
Low spring pressure, clean fresh rockers, good wipe pattern, cam and rockers lubed with a good moly disulfide lubricant, quality oil, 2000RPM break in speed with good oil pressure in the block...All the checkmark things to break in a flat tappet cam.
Gotta be a lube flow problem, I think.
-
The noise issues can't be attributed to MS2 any longer....it's the V3 mainboard in conjuction with low-Z injectors.
This is actually a known problem from back in 2004! There are a few known fixes, and I tried one on the ZX Turbo last night with good results.
-
Remember the HKS box has internal baffles as well as the two inlet points. We have a few threads on the box design here, or PM TonyD, he's built a similar-design airbox at some point, I think!
-
I am going to go out on a limb here and give you a stab at the specs...
252* duration advertised, 108 lobe center, about 450 lift...
A very small lobe profile...but bigger than stock.
I have absolutely no proof in any direction...but you could send it to any cam grinder and have them profile the cam, or you can spend a little time with a degree wheel and a dial indicator and measure out the specifications yourself.
Cal-Cams may no longer be in business, might be a different name now, could have been bought, ect. They might still be in business, too!
-
It's the same thing, Dan, and I have matched the calibration curves a dozen time now trying to figure that out.
Unburned fuel from a miss will read as lean, because the sensor compares Oxygen levels, NOT fuel levels! If it detects oxygen in the exhaust, it reads as lean, regardless of if it is a true lean (not enough fuel to combine with all the oxygen) or a miss (unreacted oxygen due to lack of combustion).
I think I may simply just have a worn out sensor. I don't know. The car acts rich, driving wise, except for the little stumbles and misfires. I probably am running too much timing and too rich a mix at cruise, even the the car is getting great milage, comparatively. I normally set cruise by ear...lean it out till a drop-throttle event gives me the nicest sounding snaps and pops out the exhaust, then turn overrun fuel cut on to kill the popping.
-
Misses occur at random, at all RPMs. I idled the car at a reported 12:1 AFR and then shut it down and pulled the plugs. Clean white, with only the slightest HINT of tan. Re-calibrated the sensor, tested the sensor with unlit butane lighter...will go full lean in clean air, and full rich with the butane spewing into it. Installed the sensor, fired the car, MS still reads out a 12:1 AFR at idle. Plugs are STILL clean white, with only a little hint of tan on some spots. If it was a carbed car, I'd richen it up just a smidgen and call it a day...they are that consistent, cylinder to cylinder. Musta got lucky on my junkyard injectors!
Same alternator, same entire wiring harness..I put the S12 jumper and the MS-2 daughterboard into the car. That's it. Alternator is a GM unit, it's fine...scope shows some HF noise that is shunted with a bypass cap, very little noise on the power circuits in the car.
Sitting still in the car, ignition on, but engine NOT running...MAP signal is fluttering around all over the place, TPS flicks around 0.5%, coolant temp flickers 1 degree up/down, MAT flickers up/down 1 degree.
With engine running, nothing changes except that the MAP is +/- 0.8kpa of the center value, wideband flickers +/- 0.5AFR, coolant temp is nice and clean, MAT signal nice and clean, TPS has spikes of +/-1, up and down.
The missing is possibly that the car is just lean. I've never seen a car that could idle at 12:1 AND have plugs that show a slight lean condition on every plug, so consistantly. I've seen where a mismatched or leaky injector could have one plug black, the others much lighter, and show a rich reading...the one cylinder just got drowned in fuel...but nothing like this.
-
No voltage tips, and yes, it is the MS1 harness. I'll likely just rewire the whole damn thing again to get rid of this problem.
-
So far, it's been fine...the majority of the drivability isses with the Q-ship throttle are that it's HUGE for the engine, and 90% of people strip the non-linear throttle linkage off because "it's ugly, I want it to be clean!". Big mistake.
Also, using the internal warmup is a cool trick, water runs through the TB and operates a wax-stat to hold the throttle open for warmup. It's a nice feature!
-
They oversold you the cam. They sell based on a 1.6 rocker ratio, not the stock 1.48. They didn't mis-cut anything...they just sold you more than you bought.
Interesting about the rocker arms, though...I have 72 here they reground and every one of them is perfect. I have some more I might send in in a few months, I'll have to go through and check them closer.
-
TPS is completely disabled...the noise comes in on ALL the circuits, but ONLY on MS2...MS1 has completely clean signal lines.
-
Skirkland, you don't seem to be running any Delta products, according to your "build log" signature...you claim stock internals.
My Isky cam has different base circles from lobe to lobe, and the lobe centerlines are offset all the way down the cam...might be for a good reason! The long L6 cam twists from front to back...under load, the lobe centerlines all fall into line.
Just because the base circles differ, doesn't mean the cam is bad. The lobe height may differ too, depending on who measures, how they measure, and what the base circle is for that particular lobe. Some cams are set this way on purpose; for example, the Delta cam I have has a slightly different profile for the exhaust as compared to the intake...and the base circle is 0.010" smaller in order to cut the lobe on the existing core.
Also, valve jobs may be equalized differently...all might have the same tip height, might match just intakes and just exhausts, too. I've run both in the past. All of this changes your lash pad thickness.
-
Skirkland, you state Delta does poor work...I have yet to find any work they have done "poorly". I have found oversold cams, as they were sold using a 1.6 rocker ratio to advertise lift instead of the stock 1.46 ratio rockers...but poor work? Nah.
280Zex, if you are still using the stock springs, you might want to measure lift again. I have that same cam, but it's not 0.480" lift... it's 0.460" or so, once you take into account valve lash and rocker ratio. It's the max lift I would use on the stock springs, though, so not a big deal.
-
Simple...don't remove the one that's already on the Q45 throttle!
There is a complex linkage already installed on the throttle body that is a non-linear throttle pull.
-
Wrist pins have a pronounced double-click, they sound like a lifter, but tap-tap, tap-tap, tap-tap...instead of tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap.
Rod bearings are lower in the block; use a long screwdriver or a mechanic's stethoscope to locate the noise. Rod noise may go away with an injector clip or a spark lead at idle.
LD28 Water Pumps
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
That looks an awful lot like an Atsugi water pump...witth the markings dremeled off. I have a few that have casting marks in them in that spot that are Atsugi