Xnke
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Posts posted by Xnke
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I will not be able to cram the ford MAF into place anymore. Not until I can find a lower profile air door, anyway! I really am trying to avoid relocating the battery, but if push comes to shove, I'll move it. If I do move it, i have ALL KINDS of room to work in, but it just seems like so much work to relocate the battery safely.
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As far as I know...the headgasket hole is a LOT larger than the restrictor that is pressed into the block...
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I'm running +1mm oversize Z22S pistons on the L24 rods and L28 crankshaft, the +2mm bore is the biggest that you can run on a stock headgasket, and allows more valve unshrouding when porting.
Are those pistons available in a 88mm bore, and forgings?
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The hydro cam is 0.390" lift, but has more duration...240* seat to seat. Lobe separation angle are 110* on the turbo cams, both the solid lifter and hydrualic. Different opening and closing ramps, but still not a "Big Cam".
Bigger than the Maxima L24e "K" grind...0.390" lift, 219* duration, 106 lobe separation.
My Isky regrind is a 0.480" lift, 280* duration, on a 113 lobe separation.
"A" grind is 0.420" lift, 248* duration, on a 108* lobe separation.
"C" grind is 0.400" lift, 256* duration, on a 108* lobe separation.
If you have the spec on the L20A cam grinds, Tony, that'd be great, those are the ones I am missing from my list!
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Start with the pump...power it from a NON CAR source, just jump two wires to it from a spare battery, listen to it running with the car turned off. If it starts doing making the noise, it's NOT the wiring or the fuel pump relay.
It could be a bad pump
It could be a bad fuel pressure regulator (Happened to me, although mine would run and run and run then the pump would get louder and louder and louder and then the car would die)
It could be a clogged fuel filter (yep, you just changed it, and it could be full of trash again!)
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K-series hondas around here were fun to play with when I had the hi-comp, cammed 2.9. it was a dead heat till I shifted to 3rd and started pulling away. They had the power, but not the gears. We shut'em down at 70 out here on the parkway, nobody needs a ticket, the track is right across town if we need more than that.
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Some more tuning, and the idle is rich, but stable. Good enough for now, since idle control will be implemented once the super goes back on, and the supercharger will change the idle tuning dramatically.
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Which stock cam?
Best I was able to strangle out of an L28ET with the "K" cam was 220HP, at 14lbs on a T04E-50 turbo. It's one of the smallest, if not the smallest, cams offered factory installed in an L-6.
0.390" lift, 219* duration, duration @ 0.050" is only 188*...
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After the bellhousing conversion, the AZ6 behind the L28 uses a stock clutch. You do not have an L28, you're using the SR20...so you could go either way. I do not convert the 350Z 6-speed currently, due to adaptor plate issues, however the 350Z uses a push-type clutch, same as the L28...I am running a 350Z clutch in my car currently.
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It's a VSS sensor. One wire is ground, the other signal. Treat it just like the variable reluctance pickup that it is.
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First things first. Make sure your tools are calibrated! I had the same idle symptoms as you did, it was a bad tune. I started over with fueling and ignition timing, and was able to make the idle problems much much better, then it got dark and I got hungry....more work tomarrow evening and I bet I get that dialed in. I fought it for WEEKS before I started back at square 1!
I have been chasing an overtemp issue for weeks, only to find out my sensor calibration was bad. Fought timing advance problems, only to find I changed a setting I didn't need to! Cost me a set of coated headers, that bit did.
Fired it up tonight after a firmware reflash and scrapping my old tune, idled away in the driveway at 155* for over an hour...my thermostat is a little low. A new one will be installed saturday.
Once you sort your electronic issues, the turbo ITB's will be lovely for the track...and with good effort, they'll be perfectly tractable on the street as well.
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Heat issue solved. So far, the supra radiator has only one issue, that's the frame rail notching needed...the loose nut behind the steering wheel had an overheating problem with it caused by a PEBKAC error in the tuning.
Initial tuning will start tomarrow, with a fresh tank of 93 as soon as it reliably drives down the road. Once it's tuned from 30-100kpA, the supercharger will go back on, and tuning from 100KPA to 180KPA will commence!
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The Aisin AZ-6 6 speed transmission used behind the SR20 can reliably handle 300HP all day, every day, in a Z car. The problems with this transmission start with 4th gear, since it's reverse helical cut and is held in place by a funky little two-piece retaining clip, that will give way and allow 4th gear to walk forward INTO THE REVERSE GEARSET! This is just unfortunate design, but it is what it is. The 2-piece clip can be welded to the mainshaft (prevents any further rebuilds, unless you're magic!) and the transmission is as strong as the FS5W71C that is installed as the 5-speed option. Don't shock-load either of these transmissions or you WILL break them at the 300-350HP level.
Tip: This 6 speed is the same unit installed in the NB Miata, the Scion FRS/BRZ, and the Toyota IS200. They are all internally similar, except the Toyota output shaft spline is different, the gear ratios vary between them, and ONLY the early SR20 or Nissan Competition transmissions can be modified to allow the Z's mechanical speedometer drive.
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Still fighting a heat issue. Temperatures creep at idle, and on 90+ degree days sitting at idle will have the engine hovering at 210F in minutes after startup. Running the A/C actually cools the engine down, bringing idle temperature to 190F, even though the thermostat opens at 160F.
I am looking at ditching the supra radiator and going back to the stock copper and brass, and just shoving the engine back another inch to make it all clear. It would take maybe a day to do the job, if I was piddling around, and since I need to make a new transmission mount anyway it's not like I'm out any real trouble there.
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Boosted ITB's are cool. I REALLY wanted mine to work properly, and with a turbocharger they probably would have just fine. I only gave them up for one reason: safety. I was having issues with the supercharger blowing the throttle open, and that killed them for me.
The intake manifold will readily accept them back, if I ever want them back...
For the two hours I ran ITB's with 8.5lbs of boost, they felt GREAT. A little more difficult than a single throttle, but switching to the MAF sensor with a known transfer curve and drivability was perfect up till the MAF freaked out from "prop wash" out of the inlet of the supercharger. If I had some more room for piping, I could have probably eliminated the MAF freakout, which would make MAF tuning soooo easy.
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Really? I filled four pages with photos; there aren't any more yet.
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Any competent TIG welder can repair that damage, and then the machine shop can deck the manifold flat again.
However, how many of those holes are corroded? Whaddaya think the interior passages look like?
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And since it's the valve seal for a German Ford 2.9L V6, it's readily available in europe too!
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Still fighting ignition timing issues. Static timing is spot on, but I think the switch to MS2.5 has me with some settings in a whirl, I am running a codebase that has a lot of MS3 code backported into it.
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That cam is better than a stock cam, if it's what you have...but if you are *buying* a camshaft, then go bigger. For a high compression stroker, the bottom end of my cam choices would be 280* advertised duration, and 0.460" lift. Keep in mind, any bigger cam than this will require valve springs, valve stem seals, and spring retainers, not to mention lash pads.
For a street car, pushing the duration past 292* advertised tends to make driving in traffic a little rough. You start loosing vaccuum to run the power brakes very shortly after 280* duration, so keep that in mind, too.
292* at 0.540" lift is a nice, mostly streetable cam that can produce good power, but you will need springs, valve seals, spring retainers, and lash pads to match the cam. Also, it really would be of much more utility if the cam and the cylinder head port flow were matched up, if your intake port falls off at 0.450" of lift, then going bigger than a 0.480" lift cam isn't doing much...
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Check that your mainshaft assembly is still nice and tight...could be that the tailshaft bearing is worn out or the rear case is broken internally. (The ball bearing right behind the mainshaft nut, but way infront of the tailshaft spline.)
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Sounds good. I'll contact you when I get back home
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Need a timing indicator for a 280zx or Maxima. little steel plate that bolts to the timing cover.
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That sounds pretty ominous, PMC, but I think I'm familiar with your method...It would come out less costly than the diesel shop, but not by much. How do you get the bottom of the new deck and the top of the old deck to stay sealed up and leak-free?
Utter refusal to run at reasonable AFR's, noise problems
in MegaSquirt
Posted
Having a hard time getting my (essentially) L28ET going on MS2Extra. I am having random misfires while driving, feels similar to a reset, and have sensor spikes indicating noise on the sensor lines. I NEVER had any issues with resets when I was using MS1-Extra!
I don't have a reasonable length datalog (I hate how MLV cuts you off now) to post up here yet, but I'll work on getting one.
Engine is a P90 head, 9cc dished 88mm piston, for a compression ratio of 8.3:1 on 2883cc displacement. Head has been ported and the car pulls like a train, even with the random misfiring. Cam is a 280* duration, 0.480" lift, on 113 lobe split. Love that 2nd gear rubber!
Injectors are 450cc blue-top DSM injectors, wired as 1-2-3 on bank 1 and 4-5-6 on bank 2. Fuel pressure is 43.5psi, and it does wobble around a bit at idle, according to my (no longer liquid filled) Summit mechanical gauge...not sure how much of that is injector and how much of that is vibration.
RPM input to megasquirt is via the EDIS6 module, using a 36-1 wheel on the crank. RPM in MS matches the engine, and the Maxima tach actually is correct at all RPMS!
I started out working with CygnusX1's timing and AFR maps, but used the VE table generator and some time with VEAL to get the fueling map so I could drive the car.
No boost yet, need to get this stuff straightened out before I put the supercharger back on. I know that the super will signifigantly change my tuning.
This engine really doesn't care for any AFR's leaner than about 13.0, at any point in the map...and simply won't idle with anything leaner than 11's. It stinks horribly at idle, and I am sure it's not doing the cylinder walls any good. Smooth idle at 950RPM with the A/C on, 1300 with the A/C off, will be adjusting this when I get IAC going. For now, I'll live with the high idle with the A/C off. Target idle speed is 950RPM.
Got an error saying I can't upload the .MSQ file...so I will change the file extension to .txt. You will need to change it back to .msq before you can open it.
I would like to try out some of the noise filtering settings prior to re-working my injection harness with shielded wire...I know a LOT of noise comes off the injector drivers and I am going to un-wrap the harness and wrap the injector wiring in shielding tape if I can't get the filter settings to straighten things out.
Also, MAP sampling? I think I should probably change the values to "starting angle : 55*" and "window length : 10*" for a 6 cylinder. Looks like the default is for a V8, putting the sample window at 45*BTDC instead of 60*BTDC, which is what I think it ought to be for a 6??
Any help with the above issues is appreciated...I have a crapload of MS-extra work to do before the super goes back on...and I hope to make it to the drag track by the 21st to get some baseline times!
Runningtune.txt