nash542001

Different distributors, L28ET has crank angle sensor and wheel. Oil cooler on auto L28ETs not sure on manuals. Different Head numbers L28ET's are P90, P90a and L28e's are N42 and E88 I think.

I have a couple for a 76, one is good and one I am not sure on. The one that is good may be a remanufactured one, because I bought it thinking it was my problem and then found out later that it was because some mechanic put on a carberated intake manifold gasket vice the fuel injected one.

I have a 1976 L28e crank pulley/damper, not sure on how many rows it is. I know it had ac stock, I would have to go home and look at it.

Sounds like a timing issue and you might want to read through this post to give you some clues on what to look at. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=findpost&pid=933291

Tried them and they sucked balls!

I ordered and received floor pans off of him last year, If that helps

Oring, how much would the price be shipped?

3200 cfm should be good!

I might have it also, but you do need to post a pic so we can be sure. Mine is from a 76 280z.

Your kit looks nice and a lot less hassle than the route I took on my 280z. The question is how much will it cost and want is the life expectance of the LEDs? Are you running the LEDs at the right mA so they will last 50,000 hours and how does the intensity change when braking and turning compared to the running lights? What is the mcd or lumens of the LEDs you are using so we can get a ideal of how bright they will be?

How much and what do you want?

Well the lights are pretty much finished and here is the link to watch the video of the signal light. There is still an issue with the flasher affecting the voltage supply to my circuit which causes the LED intensity to change. The pictures and video are not the best quality and so they look better in person then in the pictures and the brightness of them prevents me from getting a head on shot, overall I am satisfied with how they look and just need to fix the flasher issue.

Well I have not finished my lights just yet, but the one of the turn signals is almost complete. Here is a video link of what it is going to look like for the turn signal. Once complete I will try and write up a basic and easy way of doing this modification, but no promises.

For the brake/running lights I am using 2.1 volt @ 20ma that is 13,000 mcd. The back up light is 3.2 volt, 23,000mcd @ 20ma. The driver for the signal light is going to be a LM3914 dot/bar display driver circuit running in dot mode with a RC charge and discharge triger.

Here are some more pics of the stop/running light without the covers on because I am waiting on Klearz to modify my existing one to be transparent. The running light will be LEDs spelling out DAT on the Left and SUN on the right. The brake light will be all of them lit up. I wonder if you can get a ticket for the running lights being too brite. If so I might be in trouble, hopefully the cover will dim them down a bit. Oh yeah there is also one of the back up light with LEDs and the cover on. It is a world of difference from the old light.

The blinker setup sould be done by the end of next week at the latest. I will post pics once it is finished.

I might once I am finished and if it looks good!

Here is the pics of some of the work that has been done. I can say drilling 400 holes for leds sucks and wiring them up sucks even more! Still working on the rest and hope to have it finished by the end of this week without the clear lenses. They have proven to be difficult to master molding them because the plastic I order I think is to thick for my purpose. I need to find a better frame to hold the plastic in while heating it. As for the turn signals the twist will be a circuit designed by a freind at work to have the lights light up progressivly from one side to the other in a cheveron formation.

I have decided I am tired of the old lights going out all of the time and not being all that bright, so I have decided to make my own LED lights for the rear with somewhat of a twist. I am going to use the brightest LEDs I can buy for a good price and mount them to a mirror plastic plate that I will fit into my original tail light assembly. I plan on using 70 LEDs for the stop and running lamps with the running lamps only powering a few LEDs and the brake turning on all of them. The turn lights will be 60 amber LEDs. The only problem I see is trying to mold my own clear plastic lenses so I will have a more euro style look and the LEDs can be seen when not on. The backup lights will be cool white LEDs with about 12 in each.

Thanks for the info on Race tep, I will just order my parts from different suppliers. Going stock with upgraded turbo, FMS, injectors and FMIC, would be great but the engine I have needs rebuilt anyways so why not upgrade too. I think I will get some forged pistons from Ross on Summits site and race prep my rods. At least I know I can get into the 11s with the stock internals, thanks.

I do plan on upgrading the rear end to lsd and cv's, but finding a junkyard lsd is not that easy. Does anybody know of a good place to get a cam for such a build, I looked zcarparts.com's kit and wanted to know if there was anything better?

Yes I guess I should of asked the question that way, but I was wondering about Race tep's build package. As for my car it is 1974 260z which I plan on restoring and dropping the massive bumpers for a 240z style look. The motor is a L28ET junkyard motor in need of a rebuild and I want to build it right from the start to hold maybe 17psi with no problem and kick some butt.

The $7000 was max budget and I would not want to come close to that. I have $3,400 for sure and would have to save to up with the rest which would mean more waiting. I thought about an RB, but the parts start to get outrageous for that and not sure on the FMS for an RB. The reason for this build is to beat or beatup on a V8 not become one. Besides I already have L28ET and just to get RB would start out at least $2000 and then parts extra. How much did you give for your Ross pistons and where if you mind me asking?

The reason why am asking is I want to build a 260z capable of beating or at least giving a run for the money against my cousin’s 1997 SS camaro. He has put 10K in the engine and plans on running 11s in the quarter on engine and 9s on NOS. Those may be a litter optimistic, but I would be happy with somewhere in the 11s with just a turbo. I already have a L28ET engine and know my way around setting up FMS with megasquirt. I plan on having a budget of $7000 for engine build and was wondering if it was possible. Anyone who has some good setups like possible bore, compression, stroke, pistons, boost level and cams would be greatly appreciated. Also where to find some good deals on such things.

I did search their name and found mostly bad, but I was wondering about receiving off the self stuff from them and not getting work done by them. I don't like the fact that the cams are regrounds and wouldn't get one, but as for the rest of the kit I have done some pricing else where and their kit is lower even with the higher priced JE pistons. Anyone else have experience with them on parts odered?