nash542001

Nope, just making them for myself right now. If I get to where making them is less time consuming then I might decide to sell some. Will not be anytime soon.

I think I found the way to fix the voltage fluctuation and cycle disruption. I will post my findings when I try the fix out.

I researched this too when rebuilding my engine and came up with the same conclusion. Wider gap on the 2nd compression ring. So I gapped according to the new school. Did not have a baseline to compare to though. Talked to a pro-drag guy who knew his stuff and he said it was better, but said that they would drill a small hole in the top of the piston and have the gasses come out the top ring land, I think it was called gas porting but this is said only to be effective above 7000rpm.

Try this circuit very simple and effective. Immobiliser

If you are using megasquirt then you could use a tps from a kia. I think it fits the shaft of the nissan throttle body, can't remember if I modified it any, but you would have to design a mounting plate becuase the mounting holes are not the same. I used one like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-TH366-Throttle-Position-Sensor-/230900711053?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AKia&hash=item35c2c13e8d&vxp=mtr. Has worked fine for 2 years now.

Not a transformer, but a voltage regulator or resistor to drop the voltage down. This would all depend on how many LEDs you have in series and rows in parallel.

Check out the group buy forum and search for turbo manifold, you will find alot of useful info and pictures.

http://forums.hybrid...running-lenses/ Did you mean clear with no pigment or clear with no distortion? The hard part would be making casts without the distortion caused by all the little dimples.

Did anybody find an answer if this will affect cooling of the head? I am asking Racetep if this will be an issue? I will reply with their answer when I find out.

Check the slave's travel, I think it should be between 0.7-1.0" if less than that something is wrong with your slave/master or you have air in the lines.

Try UP22.com, under datsun, they have plenty of styles to choose from.

Yes, it could very well be an exhaust leak. I have had that happen before too. I would check that first and then double check your lash adjustment. The book says "that if it is a piston-pin noise it will be a double click. Piston slap or noise at the pin or rod bearing can be checked by grouding the plug at the cylinder while the engine idles. The clicking noise will diminish or stop when the problem cylinder is disabled. A connecting rod will knock or pound if oil pressure is low or connecting-rod bearing-to-journal clearance is excessive. A main bearing with excessive clearance will knock at half engine speed. The noise will usaully occur when the engine is first started, hot or cold, before oil pressure builds. Disabling a cylinder on either side of the problem bearing should quite the noise" (How to rebuild your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine p.9-10). Hope that helps!

I remember reading something about a case like yours in the "how to rebuild OHC nissan engine" book. It was in the troubleshooting section and said that by killing the spark on a cylinder, if the noise went away it was most likely ____________. I can't remember, but I thought it was a sign of a bad main bearing. I will go home soon and read the book to find out. Then again if you just did something and it started making a noise I would look over what I did.

Before you think about going the route I did maybe you should also know that when I pressed in my clutch it was hard to push all way to the floor using all my might. I have been in cars with 500lb or 750lb clutches, but what I was feeling was no where close, if I had to guess, it would of been in the range of 1500lb for how much force was required to press the pedal to the floor. So my issue was to much clamping force yours might not be that if it is not hard to push in the clutch. I would recommend calling Zoom and double checking they sent you the right stuff.

I had a similar problem with a XTR clutch and pressure plate, no matter how far I extended the rod the dang thing would not work. So I went and bought a new clutch slave and master, still did not travel further then 1". The only thing I could figure was it was the new pressure plate had to be the problem, change it back to stock pressure plate with the new clutch and everything worked.

I would be down for a group buy for doors if one was to occur.

How about some pictures of the different front spoilers you sale?

Is it a california model? I had some kind seat interlock thing underneath the passenger seat of my 76 280Z 2+2.

What about when you order custom pistons and rods that have no arrows or marks on the piston and no oil hole on the rods. The fore mentioned rods are Pauter rods and look symmetrical. The pistons are JE forged.

Has anybody tuned with just straight methanol. Do you need to change anything with your Oxgen sensor setup or just leave it alone and tune for the same as if you were on gas?

How much is that carbon fiber hood for in USD?

Don't know which is better, because that all depends on you. F54 block supposed to be better since it is the last design for the engine model. As far as flat tops or dished, dished would be better for higher boost levels and you would have a compression ratio of 8.3 with that head if everything else was stock. With flat tops it would be around 9.8 which would not be good for turbo application. Some people like the higher compression NA engine.

It should hold as long as you have some fuel management and make sure you don't go lean. I have a stock internal N42 block with N47 head and have been running up to 16lbs on 91 octane with no issues. I have even had boost control problems and seen spikes up to 22lbs with no detonation, but while running pig rich. Don't know if stock 1976 L28E has flat top or dished piston so that could make a difference?

I was wondering if 80-86 Jeep CJ7 HID Projector Headlights from Dash Z Racing fit a 280z since both lights are 7" round and how much modification would be involved? This could be a cheaper option then what is currently out there.