TomoHawk

I was able to get some brushable rust converter from the DIY store. I think you can spray it on as it cleans up with soap & water. It will convert any rust and seals the metal with a paintable (epoxy) coating. I use a roller on the bottom of an old car, then sanded with rough paper, primer and satin black on top. Cam out smooth and nice looking.

The spring that holds the door in position is mising on my 280Z. Can you substitute something in there, or do I need an original spring?

Noticed that the spring (LH) that keeps the door from closing is missing. Is there a suitable substitute, or do I need to get the actual part? Maybe a valve spring or something will work in there.

I know it's probably on the wiring chart, but... where does the ground for the headlights go? Mine aren't that dim, but could do with some boosting. Should I run a new ground wire for the chassis? Can I just clean the connections? You can probably shine up blade connectors, but the ones for the headlights are pins/round. I thought of using "CLR" to try to 'de-corrode' the connectors. One day (I'm a chemist/scientist) I'll figure out how to regenerate conductors with some kind of reverse current thing. It's probably like that electronic rust protection.

Mike, What do you consider to be a 1st Generation Eclipse? the guy at the bone yard I was at thinks it's about '90-'94...

Does that dye stuff require special equipment, or can anybody make use of it? I still have reservations about putting it over paint, and I'm starting to think that this car already has a dye job from brown to black. Make mine a medium grey, like dull aluminum.

I will try to do the best i can with some alcohol/acetone/ammonia, or whatever. Can you go from the brown or black to silver with the paint/dye?

I want to put the 95 Mustang power steering rack on my 280Z, but I need to know which would be the preferred pump to use and is there a pump bracket that will fit the L28 engine to mount to the block? So far, I removed the A/C pump, which was on the lower corner, driver's side, so the a/c compressor bracket is still on there, or can be unbolted. The evaporator can can come off or be moved if need be. I'm having a pro do this job for me, so he wants all the parts before he starts.

I like grey or silver. Original color was brown inside.

My car has the vinyl sun visors and some (brown) plastic trim pieces painted black. Is there a safe way to get the paint off? How about that non-acetone fingernail polish remover?

Both side mirrors and the rearview mirros are loose- they jiggle on the ball joint. Can you tighten them up or put shims in the socket?

On a 280Z, Does the window use fuzzies or squeegees to keep rain from going inside the door? My doors have what looks like metal squeegees in 2 or 3 pieces, and fuzzies under that. I can tape the bottomsa with duct tape temporarily, if I have to.

When I got my Blue Ray Engineering/Rhino kit, the manual "wasn't done." So I waited. And waited. then you couldn't contact the company. I recently contacted Mr. Sompson and he will see what he can do, but I thought that maybe I couldget a copy from dsomeone who has succesfully done one. Maybe I could get a copy, or the original and make a copy? Is another kits' assembly manual equivalent?

I have a BlueRay/Rhino wating for me to finish fixing up the car with power steering and trans, shocks, etc. I wan't to do any modding with the old body on so I can drive it around until the chassis/drivetrain feel good & don't make crashing sounds. Then I will put it in the shop for the body, so it doesn't get damaged.

I'm 6 foot with the Nikes on. I think the sagging seat cushion is part of the problem. My left shoulder is a little stiff, too.

Is that any particular model of Eclipse? Did you see a common color? I'd like to go with (aluminum) grey/silver.

the plastic bottle was a vacuum bottle. I took the car to a local radiator shop where the guys were really friendly and knowledgable. They removed the a/c pump, fixed the heater controls and lubed up the cables. Not cheap, but had to be done. Maybe next summer I'll go at the a/c evaporator with the sawz-all, and take it out in pieces. Should give more airflow with the lesser restriction. The radiator guy said they'd have to remove the dash to get the ervaporator out the regular way. Now there's room for a p.s. pump.

Could you just relocate the charcoal cannister to the front of the radiator? how many hoses are we talking aboout, 2 or 3? Would a check valve or 1-way flapper work? I'd like to replace it with a tubular thing that can mount to the strut tower. Actually, I'm aiming at clearing out that corner to make room for a p.s. pump.

On my 280Z- I would like it if my seats were a couple inches higher. That way my arm would be at the level of the window, so you can put your elbow out the window instead of pointing up. The only thing I can think of so far is solid blocks of metal. Maybe some other seats are taller than the stock ones?

There is a local (publishing) company that can get you areprint of the manual for $75. They send the job to a local printing place where it gets printed and bound.

on a 1978 280Z- Can the charcoal cannister be bypassed without affecting the engine's operation? BTW, what the charcoal cannister do?

jeromio, Wow! where did you get that diagram? I think it answers my question about a white plastic bottle with 2 tubes connected and the vacuum solenoids on the RH fender. What do the solenoids do? BTW, I took the car to a local radiator shop and the guy fixed it up real good. A/C pump gone, heater/defrost working. Thanks, man.

Thanks Jim! Just a quick look makes a bunch of things familiar. I'll print them out and take them to the car tomorrow. .TomoHawk.

I may have mislead you. thgere are 3 small-diameter (2-3mm) tubes going int o the bottom of the heater control unit. I can't tell yet, need a better look, but it might go to a valve assembly. I don't really know what one looks like.

I would like to get somebody to remove the A/C matrix & fix the heater controls, but it seems too complex for me. Haynes manual is no help. Is this something a Nissan dealer can do for me? Maybe some other kind of place like body/interior shop?