TomoHawk

What kind of car would have the Transmission with overdrive? Does it bolt up to the L6 engine?

Approximately when shouldthe low fuel warning light come on? My gas gauge has been on 'E' for weeks, but no light. I will look through the fuses, but what else can you check? Can you get at the fuel-level senders from inside the car?

I know.... You could just use the Invoice number off the receipt for the kit. Just add the Vender's initials to the front and "GT" to the end (isn't that what Ferrari did? ) There should be no chance of a duplicate.

I would like to locate the Honda hatch latch previously mentioned. With one of those, you could probably come up with your own design of swivel plate. Or maybe ask Mr. Puckett how to make them.

Remember, The GTOs were designed to go 175 mph, so everything was streamlined. They put doors, or flaps, on the cooling intakes with flush buttons to open. Airplanes use these buttons on the engine inspection lids. I was thinking about not actually cutting the radiator cap door on the hood (or wherever.) Just reinforce the glass under the area, then carefully grind a shallow channel to simulate the door. These are replicas, right? It doesn't have to actually be exactly the same, especially if you leave out some things like pushbutton door pulls, perspex air scoops on hood & back window, the aluminum 5-speed shift gate.... But I think we can have some fun over the (idle) winter month coming to throw around ideas.

Do you think that we could 'purchase' a mfg. # from McBurnie or Stable Autoworks (or whoever's got the Blue Ray molds)? Otherwise you'd have to keep your car titled as a Datsun, huh?

When you re-title your GTO replica as such, can you cange the VIN to something like "F3737GT?" It would help with doing the best replica you can, but I don't know much about VIN laws.

from the pictures I have, the radiator door is on the nose part in front of the hood & in line with the center air intake. I don't know if there's enough roon to even put the indent in it. BTW, You guys got an idea of how you would put doors on the three air intakes? Doesn't matter if you drive in warmer months, but just wondering.

Got an email from Mr. McBurnie that said "We have push button door handles and adaptors @ $250.-" I assume that price is per set. Should i get some now, or just get the adapters, or what? Maybe I can get the door pulls really cheap separately. I don't think it would do me much good to put them on the Z doors.

Nope, it was steering rack bushings! I had some new urethane ones put on and all the bouncing was gone. The tires are old, which makes thing (vibrate) a little, but that is something I can take care of in an hour at the 60-minute tire shop.

I teach computers p/t at the local comm. college, if that counts. Leaves much time to do other things, like look for dudes to fix my Z for me.

Make sure your starting relays are kicking things in. Maybe check for battery voltage at the coil when the key is on START? It's -ALWAYS- something simple, but what?

No offense, but what are your valve-body mods intended to do?

Remember, you need a special kind of radiator cap to use the "coolant overflow container" (what the OEM guys call it,) probably a certain kind of radiator too. I would think that you can get one from an auto part store or radiator shop. In fact, i think mine had one because the tube is there with the cap, but the can is missing! I hope that it hasn't been spilling coolant out on the street! I better check it when I get it back from the Trans shop.

You got a little off the topic but, why a tape measure? Whatever happened to the artistry of the 'Pininfarina car'?

Real GTOs have a fourth lid on the hood to access the radiator cap. I think it is possible to cut the door, put on hinges & latch, but does the radiator cap line up with the door? Would add to the look of a 'real' replica car, but not too much trouble, I'd think. I don't remember if the Blue Ray hood has the lines in it for the door to be cut. If not, one could cut a line in carefully with a template.

oops

Tomahawk- I got a set from the last time I bought an Ohio Z (2400lbs of rust w/ vinyl seats) I found this interesting website while browsing Ebay: http://www.jaggraveyard.com/ Looks like it might be a good source for certain parts.

This is really cool! I like the idea of having a trans that you can take anyplace and get service or mods or even a new shifter! Can I assume (any) turbo 350, like a used/rebuilt? It would reduce that cost greatly. Sounds like you'd also need a modified driveshaft to finish it up?

I though this topic was dashboards?.... Is it possible to get a replacent dash made of something light? I would rather totally replace mine instead of trying to fix the wiring with thething in place.

How do those things go on? Do they replace your fuel filler cap or just cover the spot where the door was.

I think I got a set somewhere... Didn't somebody mention that you can use spring-loaded hinges? Otherwise, you need a prop to keep the thing up.

Oh really? Dirst shows up better on black to me. I think I will go with a cast metal/aluminum color with a clearcoat, unless something absolutely needs to be a different color. It probably already looks dirty, so go figure.

Is the jag gas cap serviceable? I mean if the seal is worn, can you put in a new seal? It wouldn't be worth much if all the gas evaporated, or if the tank couldn't be pressurized. I found another on Ebay- just posted: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1860489317 It has no key though. Maybe you can get one made up? I know a locksmith that is pretty good. BTW, can you pressure-check the flip-top gas caps like, for an emmissions check? Just wondering.

What would be the appropriate color to paint the chassis, floorpan, etc.? I'm taking mine apart in little pieces as I go and refinishing them separately. No room to dismantle the whole thing. Got the sway bar off now, I just polished the paint/rust off & sprayed it with clear polyurethane. Control arms & crossmember should come next, with the power steering conversion.