TomoHawk

Do you wipers go at a decent speed? Mine seems to go a little slow, compared to modern cars, which might mean the motor is a little weak. I think I would have to use high speed to clear the windscreen the way I'm used to, and if it's raining hard, I would probably get off the road.

That sounds like a good safety issue. I looked at my throttle linkage and I wonder how it lasted this long! All those ball-joints and pivots look like something will eventually pop off & leave you at WOT on the freeway with no way out If you could go to a cable setup, why not? It would certainly clean up the top of the engine.

I think mine has a crack, so I get fumes, gas IN the car, which is (melting) the vinyl covering the shock tower. Would you use ordinary fuel filler tubing that you get from parts store, or would you need a special kind? What is the size used?

Why don't you just make your own out of ABS plastic, aluminum or even titanium?

Under the instrument panel, at the extreme ends, there are tubes pointing down from the top. It looks like these are either drains for the cowl/winshield washer area, or places where you can get forced fresh air. Can anybody confirm either? Apparently, for fresh air, you would only have to run a hose down to the air ducts in the dash. You could also use these for drains, instead of letting the water drain into the area under the fender, which seems to be a really bad idea, since there's not much metal protection there.

That sounds about right. I'd expect a gap away from the edges of the door skin, but there shouldn't be any gaps in the handle area, if you want to use the Honda door pulls.

Tomahawk Z is right- After removing the sway bar, I got the end links off and they look to be good enough to reuse. Thay are covered with rust, so need some cleaning & painting. WD-40 helped get the nuts off without breaking anything. Fortinately, this isn't an Ohio car.

I would probably just grind the door skins flat in the handle area, then patch it from the back, then front. The metal door would be the hard part; to form a patch to fit over the handle recess, then cut out the recess & weld the patch over the hole. The only think I'm not sure about is what kind of gap there is between metal door and glass skin. This gap may be a problem the the new door handle doesn't reach in far enough. I'll try and post a pic of the MG boot lock.

Ok.... I took the wheel off & looked at the tie rod pin. It looked tight. Grabbed it and it didn't have any looseness. I suppose I should look into the steering rack or something else. Could a shocks/brakes/alignment place be able to diagnose the problem? I think I'm outof ideas.

I think JTR was talking about only using the rear axle, because of the lsd.

Remember '80s Saleen Mustangs? They had a giant duct in the hood to let the air from the radiator flow over the hood. It really helped keep the front down. Proably much more work than installing an air dam. I think no matter what you do- it's basically an air dam. Ferrari 250 GTOs had one on the front and one in front of the rear axle.

Reguarding prices, you should probably keep in mind the number of potential Z customers (not many)the places have, and the amount of inventory the need to carry. Would you rather go to the junkyard to get ALL your stuff? It might explain things, but the stuff is still pricey

I resist using the original stock endlinks with the newer, harder, urethane donuts, fearing that the metal 'washers' on the endlinks might break off. I could get another set of the stock, but would like to try something of a newer or better design. The steering rack bushing are irrelevant, because I'm planning on the power steering conversion.

www.victoriabritish.com but they only have general information. Nothing like J.C. Whitney

I have catalogs from: MotorSport Auto Victoria British Tweeks (Would like a Moss motors Z catalog) What do you think of these companies? Is Tweeks just a place to get Z drink coaster & shirts, or a good place for performance stuff? MSA & V.B. look like decent general parts suppliers.

My end links look like they might not hold up to a new set of end-link bushings. Should I get new stock ones, or are there some useful aftermarket ones that will fit the stock sway bar?

OK. If so, I would probably go to NAPA or AutoZone.

Cool, I will try a look in the JY. Any recommendations to which models to look at? Did you have much trouble installing them and fix the door skins? I like. Also using an MG boot lock on the back of my Z. Just required alteration of the hole to install it.

I have the Rhino kit. It was very basic- didn't even get the rear inner-well pieces. The instructions tell you to cut the inner well into strips, then weld together and fiberglass over top to form the widened wheel well. No Gas nap, no headlight covers, no chrome things or lamps, just the front, back, hood & door skins. Didn't even get a finished copy of the assembly manual. A good point is that the pieces looked to be quality layups. I think I will go with the round cap-after I win the lottery Hey, doesn't the Viper have a monza-style gas cap?

I think I found out why my front wheel is 'bouncing.' It looks like there is too much play in the knuckle joint to the tie rod end, so gease will just squirt out easily. Should I be looking at the tie rod end or the hole in the knuckle to see which one has worn out? what's a good place to get the stock steering knuckle ('78 280Z)?

You CAN use a Jag gas cap-- I just saw a picture got GTO 3223 GT that has what looks liks a Jaguar flip gas cap on the LH side, mostly flush-mounted to the fender. Looks nice from the back, but another point of view would be nice to confirm things. Now, Just need to find out who made the exhaust tips....

I though the Renault had pneumatic valves The "valveless" engines you are referring to are called "rotary valve" engines. They have what looks like a solid cam (cylinder) with slots through it to act as valves. Problem is that it doesn't let the engine breath as good as it could. The good thing is that your engine could turn 20,000 RPM ? How about a 10,000 ROM lawnmower?

Condoms...... To patch a leaky radiator hose? I just thought of the Fire extinguisher too, but which one? where would you put it? Probably needs to be close to the driver, just in case.

the JTR book mentions installing the rear axle parts from an Audi Quattro. Does anybody have any info or results? It's supposed to have an LSD in there...

I don't think I would put that Jag cap on a GTO, huh?