TomoHawk

I don't supposed you can just replace the control box with a switch on the shifter, huh? That would be too convenient...

If the chrome bothers you, why not paint it or paint on some black rubberized stuff? That's the idea, right, to get that shiny chrome out?

Update: I put the fuse in and the test light goes on showing the circuit is on. Then I filled the tank up to half and the light didn't go off! How full do you have to fill the tank for the FUEL flight to go off? Can you test the low level sender separately?

Here's a crazy one for ya.... Back in '93 when I was trying to track down a GTO kit, I found a guy that makes the bodies out of PLASTIC???! Price was $1500??? Then I hooked up with Mr. Simpson, so I foorgot about the other one.

Oh, I get it. It's got white font on white back. No problem if the admin will change the 9 occuances of the value. Actually, I thought it was about putting disc brakes on the back. Does anybody have a successful install?

Where's that tech article? Highlughting text doesn't do anything, and I can't find a 'tech section' on this site.

A few more problems: No Pepboys for 200 miles around The stock end link doesn't have a 'spacer' Don't have the old bushings There are a bunch of Autozones here. I'm not planning on buy another set of bushings, so I will just use the sander/drill press to make them shorter. Larry, I sent the address already.

Does somebody have a write-up of the disk-brake conversion? The one in the tech section comes up blank!

Hey 1-GenMan, Looks like you forgot the ol' WD-40! Always spray some on & in a couple minutes, the nut comes off! Best 2 tools I have are WD-40 and copper/graphite anti-seize!

These are the urethane ones from Adco (Vic B.) They are real meaty, but are too tall to fit 2 on each end of the stock end links, with the washers, etc. installed. Can you just leave out the washers, or cut down the height of the bushings to what will fit? I think I will need to do both, or cut each one down about 1/3 inch

first one is from a Chrger: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1864737519 It has no neck, but could you use/make one from something? Triumpg cap from DeNoya (again): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1865112351 I'm not sure it it will work on the GTO, but has a nice simple look like the Monzas do.. Opinions?

I will probably replace the rear wheel bearings when I get the shocks replaced. Front ones I might even do myself. Fronts shouldn't be too hard.

Use Marvel's Mystery Oil!! a.k.a. "Marvelous Mystery oil" BTW- what's in that stuff? j/k

I tried asking around at a few body shops a bunch of years ago, and most said they won't give out the formula, or paint your car that exact color because their afraid of getting sued for "color trademark infringement???"

I've read all the available info so far. I was wondering if there was any new stuff not involving a significant amount of fabrication. That way, I might get a Trans shop to do the work, instead of waiting months and paying megabucks to get the only custom guy in town to do it.

My 280Z is totally stock. that means I shouldn't have much of a bumpsteer problem, right? Can be more specific about what is a 3rd Gen. RX-7?

I need to put power steering into my 78 280Z. So is there a (power rack & pinion) that will go in with the least amount of mods? Steering pump is a different story. I will have to wait for months to get a mustang rack in; probably until spring.

Yes, under hard acceleration, I get a loud rumbling. I thought it was from the transmission. Oh.. so the whole thing could be coming from the transmission, huh?

Not just any red. there are lots of flashy reds out there. Mostly GM colors, too. But the red of Ferrari seems special, What's the difference? Is there a formula/code I can take to the paint guy? I would like to get some to paint the metal stuff on the interior.

My 78 280Z- At speed (~60 mph) on the freeway, I hear & feel something like rumbling. I was thinking that since the car was sitting for who knows how long before I got it, that the wheel bearings might be flattened? I will be replacing the rear tires in a month or so ($ flow is slow) so maybe the dried up tires are making the ride rougher. Front tires are new and the ride is nice w/ no crashing over RR tracks.

Is that the same Pucket that makes the pushbutton door pull adapters? BTW, What's the URL for Nismo?

I've used it on exhaust manifold bolts, and a year later, they came out reasonably easy. Intake bolts too. Any bolts you might want to take out later (within reason.) As an R&D chemist, I've worked on several kinds of anti-siezes. I've liked the copper kind best. Try to avoid the kind with Chlorine in it. Where do you get your anti-sieze?

All I have is the stock engine, but the odometer says 6970 miles! 106970 miles that is (swimmmin' pools, movie stars...)OOPs, wrong number. I thought the same thing about the MG locks. You can easily replace the lock barrel to key all alike, too. Only problem i found out is that there are at least 2 types of door lock mechanisms; the one you describe, and the kind I got. Both use a kind of pushrod, tho.

TomoHawk- I sent you some pics of my MG trunk (boot) latch. It has a flat bottom and flats on the sides to key it into the hole. Sounds like it should work perfectly. Barrel pushes in about 1/2 inch. BTW (changing the subject,) I just finished making some plywood pieces to replaces the ones under the hach on the sides of the door over the (mini) spare. I took the tire out and put a piece of angle ove the area so I can put a full-size spare in the back (like real GTOs have.) Had to fill in the sides with the plywood pieces that have basically the same shap as the stock ones, but stick in farther and have a round cutout to fit the tire. I plan on carpeting the area later, with a round, sunken 'tub' to fit the tire. I Also re-did the deck behind the seats so it hinges. You can make use of the tubs behind the seats or just hide stuff under the tilting deck. I just reversed the supports under that deckpiece and screwed strap hinges to the supports & deck after trimming it to fit the larger spare tire. It needed more trimming when I found that there was contact when lifted. I re-used the edge moulding at the front of the deckpiece by attaching it with 3/8 inch blind-nuts and screws. Also put rubber bumpers under the screws to prevent noises/scratches.

I tried feeding the bulb from a 6V NiCad I had and it glowed, so I think the bulb and the wire are ok. Then I checked for power at the dash with the test light, and it goes on with the key (way low on gas right now, don't know if it'll go OFF.) So when it quits raining, I'll go put some more gas in there, and see if the light will go off. If it does, then the connector is faulty. Is there some kind of conductive grease you can put on the pins in case the contacts are too loose?