janaka

I've learned a long time ago age really means nothing in clubs like these. I have been a member of another club since I've had my licence (almost 10yrs now) and most people didn't know how young I was until they met me in person and were shocked. act mature, have good conversation and it doesn't matter what age you are. Enjoy the car, learn as much as possible, and enjoy the car

My suspension is the following: KYB GR-2 struts, front and rear. MSA Sport Performance Springs. MSA sway bars- 1 inch front, 7/8 inch rear. Solid rear strut brace. Energy Suspension polyurethane master bushing kit. I personally like the way it handles, nice and flat through corners and very responsive. most people are surprised with how well the car handles for its age (most don't realize that most of the car is new...lol)

I'm going with the forged internals as it was only marginally more expensive than not using forged for the pistons/rods. My thought was that it would allow me to upgrade down the road when I wanted more out of the motor. Do the bottom end once and be done with it type of thinking. With the pricing on the top end kit being about $1600 from my local shop it seems like a pretty good deal since its aluminum heads, intake, cam etc etc. I've been quoted almost that much from other shops just for those heads alone.

I LOVE that movie, one of top actually... nice costumes to say the least. good times

Well I'm looking for a reliable combo for my motor that I'm planning to put into the Z hopefully over the winter/spring. block: 350 bored .030" over, stroker kit eagle stroker rotating assy forged rods and pistons (7cc flat tops) HV oil pump, double roller timing chain set what are your thoughts on the Edelbrock Top end kits. to me it seems to take some of the guess work out of the infinite combinations available on the market place. I'm looking at the Edelbrock part # 2098 as seen on summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2098&autoview=sku I've read that the dual plane intake (RPM air gap) is better for low end torque and will make about the same HP as a Victor Jr single plane intake till about 5000rpm (after which the single makes more power, but i plan on being under 5k more than over) the aluminum heads flow pretty well, and for us keep the weight down which is a bonus. nice valve sizes to boot. the cam isn't HUGE, 234/244 @ .050 total lift= 480/510, LSA 112* with that cam and the specs from the rotating assy and the links from grumpy my CR comes out to about 9.7:1 which will be 91 octane safe. This will be a street car with the occaisonaly run down the track. a fun weekend car. Gears are 3.90's R200 and will most likely be mated to a G-force T-5 opinions guys?

here is the only pic that i have of the panel at my house... no installed clearly but its all i have at this point. i'm still working on getting the metal trim peice for the top so i can test fit it.

i love the stuff, cheap and works amazing, i've got it on the doors (inner and outter skins) as well as my trunk and it was a HUGE difference. i have just the cheap stuff ($.80/sqft with forum discount) and its worth every penny. great adhesion and no issues at all through 40*C summers or -40* winters in the car. They are a small company in Iowa and have amazing people and products. I run a full compliment of their speakers in my civic including there new 5channel amp and its all warrantied for like 5 yrs and even more important is IMO a great SQ company but conservatively priced.

I personally wouldn't give my business to someone who hangs up on me on the phone when I'm trying to get all the details of a transaction straightened out. You were being completely honest and upfront about his competitor which is more than I can say about most customers who don't give all the info. I'd say you are better off with the other shop. I'm in sales and customer service is a make it or break it kind of thing for me as a customer.

i've got Edead in my DD car www.edesignaudio.com i have done the rear of the Z already with it and plan on doing the floors as well as firewall over the winter while the car is parked.

a little hammering (which IMO was useless as the metal didnt move much even with some good pounding) and in the end the seat isn't 100% straight on to the front of the car... it sits angled a few degrees to the left, it also doesn't sit as close to the center console as the passanger seat. It sits about 3/4"-1" at most closer to the door than the passanger, but from looking at it no one can tell that its not as close as the other, nor that its angled slightly. it would take IMO a VERY discerning eye to notice it. due to the offset left and the angle is why it will not slide quiet as far back due to the one hinge interfering with the tunnel. I'm sure that I could have hammered it for long enough and gotten a TAD more clearnace but i felt guilty for beating the car and since I can sit comfortably in my driving position, and my wife sits closer (which it does move forward enough for her) I didn't bother.

i got them from a friend who bought them for his cutlass...(i know i spelt that wrong) they are super comky compared to the stock seats, had an hour drive last night and they are great. i love the lateral support through the kidney section

Well with a little fab work and a whole lot of luck I was able to get both recaro's into the Z this weekend. the drivers side was a PITA due to a drivetunnel bulge that wasn't on the passanger side, but all in all I can drive the car and the seat adjusts enough that amanda can get comfortable in the driverside no problems. The passanger side was a piece of cake, first try bolt right in with my 'adapters' which was a good start before i found out about the tunnel issues..lol needless to say here are the pics, and yes they will be recovered to match the car. we are thinking black leather to replace the grey and red micro-suede inserts There are no issues with them touching the door panels, nor the handbrake on the passanger side and the head rests are JUST inside of the roll bar when reclined far enough.

I just recieved my panels this past week and the look TOP NOTCH! Fast shipping to north of the boarder too which was a pleasant surprise.

well my door panels arrived today. look great and I can't wait for them to go in.. not sure when they will but stoked to have them nonetheless

thanks for the inputm i'll keep looking. jason

price added, you were right i hadn't posted it

hey guys i'm starting my build for my 383 stroker and was thinking that I wanted to use the T56 transmission for it. I have found this posting on a local car site. does this seem like a good deal for the transimission? and will there be anything else I will need to bolt to a '85 383 motor? thanks jason

I'm running a Schneider cam- .460 valve lift, 270 intake duration, 280 exhaust duration. ported head and flat top pistons dual SU's. IMO its a nice cam but if I was to have built the motor (came in the car) I would have went bigger. Its got a nice idle (not super lopey though) and gets me 10L/100km on the highway at 75-80mph so I can't complain that way

congrats on being a DD, that's always my job (rarely ever drink, like twice a year maybe). Also good job on the police too... better to be safe than sorry with drunk drivers IMO. Even better that he was a good guy about you not being drunk. cheers!

looks like an eaton roots blower to me. M90?

Well I've wanted a sbc for my Z since I've had it and I'm now in the position to make it a reality. my question for you guys is this. should I just go out and buy an already built motor or should I piece one together myself? my abilities with cars/motors is pretty good, I tore down and built up my last motor (3.8L superchaged V6, converted to turbo, new cam/heads/intake blah blah) so I'm capable of doing it myself (albeit with some help on occasion ) so should i make a custom sbc or should i get an off the shelf variety? I'm looking for 350-400hp out of a 383 stroker if that matters in the equation, non-boosted. thoughts? opinions?

i'm in the 75-100 category. 25 with a business degree and a family business as my background. i'm in in-home sales now and have a job that fits my skill set like OJ and the leather glove. i work smart, not hard and I have lots of time to tinker with projects (both home and auto) so I can't complain much. although if you talk to my manager I complain a lot I think that is hereditary though.

pics start around page 5 i'll be ordering a set most likely as i've been in contact with the member already today

I spent about $8k on the car itself. Totally rebuilt bottom up, new floors, fenders,hood, interior is basically new, new paint, new wheels, rebuilt L6 w/cam/header/exhuast/SU's etc etc, all new suspension, sways/springs/struts/bushings etc, R200 rear w 3.90's so that "maintenence" part is done I'm hoping the go fast of the SBC 383 stroker with tranny comes in at or under the same price as what I paid for the car. This is allow me to have a totally running entire SPARE drivetrain which I could swap in if needed. If I have a 11sec daily drivable car for under $20k I'll be extremely pleased.