dum-bass

Hey Z-ya, I know this is a really old thread, but I've been beatin my brains out tryin to get my stock '75 280Z tach to work with EDIS! I've tried the diode method, works on one coil but not two So, I implemented your circuit design into my MS III and voila! it doesn't work! I mean when you look at the design of the circuit, it's perfect! how could it not work? Now my only question is, what year is your 280 tach?

I've just been waiting for better weather. It's always raining or snowing or freezing around here. I'll probably finish up the details by June and have it all dyno'd in.

Sooooo, hows it workin? talk to me man!!!

Why wouldn't you use the AEM settings in the calibration box? also, is this thing linear or non linear? Just curious.

BTW, the squirrel in the picure is dead I think

oops, i mispelled n'HOTRODDERS' it shudda been "HOTRODers" OK, i'm goin back ta skool after we're done with this new BOEING JETLINER!

Yay Biatch, Yay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now that you have it working, does it work consistantly? I've been bangin my head trying to get mine to work consistant! BTW, that is an awesome FI engine setup!!!

"Oh,....... hmmmsk. That looksk familiarisk hmmsk!" Judging by my edumactionsk, I try to tailor that out but Me thinks it might be the cam profile....I havsk A rather large cam spec for a supercharged engine, and my VE always has a crater in it. Are you using the '290 cam?

What is the extra air intake before the intercooler for? If that's what it is, does it have a throttle plate that closes when boost comes on?

Oh man, I didn't know you were goin with a carb but from what I understand, It is actually easier to dial a carb in as long as you are jetted to take on more fuel. I,ve seen other guys on this site use a Holly 4 bbl carb but they were draw thru systems. As far as the distributor, I think you want to retain the vaccum advance and slow down the centrifical advance curve while also cutting back on the base timing as necessary to stay out of detonation. There is alot of info on this out there...

That is a good one LOL! I have never heard that one but I will take it under advisement!

If you are going to drink, you must drink fast around here.

And here are more pics..

The rebuild is finally done! I have lots of pics but first I want to say, being more of an American muscle car guy in the past, this has been without a doubt the most difficult engine rebuild I have ever done. Months of tracking down nonexisting or no longer available parts, buying supposed "RACE" parts from EBAY just to find out they are bogus, hacking it out with my machinist about clearances, deck height, and everything else, having to fabricate everything because nobody makes parts for this car anymore, or hey! spend $500. on a friggin timing chain setup? Get the F&%# outahere with that bull@#&*!! I will just make it!!! A year or more of studying up on this L-28 and supercharging. Hey, I'm black and blue over this project and run into problems at every turn with this thing! Also I have all kinds of brand new left over parts such as; pistons, rings, gaskets, intercooler, cam and other crap.

The generation 1 M-90 had an external bypass valve and the gen 2 was internal. I wish I would have used a gen 2 M-90, a much cleaner look without the added bypass piping.

If you try to do a blow through system with a roots supercharger then yes you will blow the pipes apart. I tried that first with my system and it didn't work too well having to reattach the pipes all the time, plus it was really noisy but I can see where a blowoff valve would work there. After changing to a draw through system, I never had a problem blowing the pipes apart and it was quiet! a much better way to go.

Very classic '70s look! I like the white letters out, very retro.

Yes, a really good book on the subject like SUPERCHARGED by Corkey Bell if you don't already have one.

Yes, it is a fuel management unit that is designed to work in tandem with your stock fuel pressure regulator. The one from Motorsport Auto will not work because it in not adjustable into boost. You can find em all over the place like Summit racing, Superchargersonline.com, Ebay. I think I saw one recently that was an all in one unit so you dont need the stock regulator but it was about $100. more.

Actually, I never got a cam card with any of these cams for some reason. He just said run it STRAIGHT UP and since I was installing them in the car, I didnt bother with a degree wheel and went by the book. Now that the motor is out of the car, I am using a degree wheel and it seems that STRAIGHT UP may not be what I thought it was.

Oh, and BTW your vacuum is going to be way low like 10-14 becuase of valve overlap. It will work great at rpm,s above 4500 to 8000 with boost!!!

Ok, now that is cool ♥♥♥♥! I don't have the resources to pull that kind of ♥♥♥♥ but if I did, I shurely would. Is that a gen 2, or 3 P-90?

I am sorry my friend, but that link somehow doesn't work for me....

Why are you using a stage 2, almost stage 3 cam? This looks like a drag race cam, and your low end will definately suffer, and cam timing is critical! Delta Cam will grind any cam that you specify. Are you running 20 + lbs of boost all the time?