theBrit

Thanks for the input, I guess I won't bother changing anything for now then. I wasn't expecting a huge difference but if it will probably hurt things....well.

Hi, I have to pull my LT1 out of the Z because of an oil leak. As anyone knows, if the engine has to come out, you may as well do something else while you are in there Can anyone hazzard a guess as to what I might gain by fitting a cc306 cam and 1.6 rockers to an other wise stock LT1 ? I would like a lighter flywheel too, I can afford to lose a little bottom end (where I smoke the tires anyway) for the extra mph I hope to be able to pull in each gear before shifting. Maybe next time I can port the heads a little, but I understand that they flow fairly well stock. Mike

Tengu3, I know it must be possible because I have read it here, but I currently have only a 17" by 9.5 rim with a 255 40 tire mounted that I borrowed from a friend whilst I attach my flares. I have MMS coil overs. Anyway if I hold the wheel in place (wrong bolt pattern) it appears that this combo is almost to big even when the flares are on. I can only assume that my previous ride height will have to be raised a lot to fit this combo, so when you are asking make sure you see pictures so that you can figure out if you like how high the car has to be. I am hoping that the camber change will tuck the top of the wheel in more than when I just place it in the arch, or maybe I like my cars low! Mike

You will get as many answers to "which engine" as the number of people you ask. I have a stock LT1/T56 becasue I wanted something that would work flawlessly from day one as it came from the factory. All I would do differently if I started now would be to pick an LS motor. Mike

Man, sorry to hear about that, my pet peve is tire places that wind the lug nuts on so tight with an air wrench, that they chew your alloy wheels up. But on the bright side I have an excellent set of front struts off a 73 240z, I am swapping in my already modified 71 struts and they are identical as far as I can tell. PM me if you are interested. Mike

I have always found that wet flatting the OEM finish to ensure it is keyed and clean, followed by a light primer coat and on to finish has worked well for me, I think you need to assess how well the OEM primer was applied in your case. What are you going to use to replace the foam pads that sit under the fenders ? I have found the rubber sealing strips at MSA and VB but they don't list the foam pads anywhere that I can see.

I have added some pictures at http://www.holmesfamily.ws/pedals/index.html The narrow pedal box is from the 71, the larger box is from the 73. On the 73 box you can see the larger brake pedal and my trial fit of the clutch pedal from the 71. The clutch pedal bolts in but the linkage for the master cylinder does not line up and the pedal return stop only just catches the edge of the pedal.

I am converting a 73 Automatic to manual transmission as the car has a fantastic condition body. I thought I had everything I needed as I already have a 71 manual pedal assembly etc. Almost everything else is done, and it was a bolt in change excepting the custom brackets for the t56, but.... (there is always a but with these simple projects) Turns out there are quite a few differences if you plan to do this. 1. The bolt pattern for the brake booster is different. 2. The clutch slave cylinder is further left. 3. Clutch pedal is a defferent shape. 4. Brake pedal is a different shape. I'm left needing a minimum of a 73 manual brake and clutch pedal. If anyone has them I would be interested. I will let you all know if that is the only glitch in doing the swap. It might be worth it for hybrid folk in general, as the automatics are cheeper and I suspect get abused less plus you are going to be ditching the transmission anyway. By the way, if anyone needs a superb complete original 73 240 engine and all the other goddies from radator to diff and everything else in between I have the parts. Mike

I dont think anyone has brought this up before, but at Quaifes website http://www.quaifeamerica.com/ They have a little program that lets you compare gearbox ratios, diff ratios and tire sizes, it calculates the the shift points, speed in gear etc and even draws comparison graph. It is a little quirky to use IMHO. Mike

I have more pictures of the blue car from different angles, sweet car. Your extensions have come out very well, but the revelation about bug flares has me intrigued! I will have to investigate before sending the flares back, and dont know any bug owners near here which won't help. So do you mean that they are stock bug flares ? if we can prove this one, I'll bet there will be a lot more steel arch Zs in the near future, the cost of the VBs put me off for a long long time. I can see where you are comming from looking at this picture Mike

I have that same pump on and LT1 and it was hellish loud with the stock lines at idle, but it got a little quiter as the engine consumed more gas at speed. I installed an6 lines for the feed and return, it is now almost completly quiet except at idle when there is still a little noise but now you have to listen for it. I have to assume that the return line was too small when the engine was not taking most of the fuel and the regulator couldn't dump the pressure fast enough, hence the pump was working hard, the car ran fine though. I also mounted mine on grommets like those shown above. Installing the larger lines is easy, just carefully drill out the stock line bushings and mount the new lines. Mike

I just got my victoria british (vb) flares after drooling for months over a picture of blue Z with white stripes that has vbs fitted. I have to agree with Zhadman, beautiful though they are, there is no way these arches are more than an inch and a half wider than stock at the back and slightly less at the front, VB should be called on their missleading advertising. To my eye the sides of the arches are flattened and they could be pulled out a fair bit, I guess I would need an English wheel for that though. Now that I have them, the thought of cutting the car up to fit them scares me to death, I think I will need a few stiff drinks before I put the car under the knife. Mike

I dont suppose anyone has a part number or a specific vehicle I should reference for the truck connector mentioned by MikeJTR ? I am guessing that with that info I could go to the GM counter and get one. Thanks Mike

I had the idle air control valve jam on me, basicaly it never moved and it was always letting in too much air. In my case it was broken, but I remember when I replaced it, it needed to calibrate its self, but I forget how you acomplish that.

I am so tempted by these wheels, have to sell soem furnature to aford them but it would be worth it!

Thanks for the input. I figured that 1st will always require a lot of care but I had hoped that some one would have found some serious grip with the bigger tires. I have problem in 3rd if it is damp to the point that a "little squeze" to pass traffic can become a little sideways, it is alarmingly easy. Mike

I have probably read 70% of the post on this site, but I dont recall too many people reporting how well their wheel tire combo worked for traction. Usualy people mention looks and ride quality. I have 225/50 15"s with a quaiffe LSD, the addtion of the LSD made a ridiculous situation tollerable, but with a mild LT1 turning the wheels I have a huge traction problem. I love the look of wide 16" wheels but tire choice is poor, 17s look great but usualy only in narrower sizes that fit under the stock arches to my eye. (for my ideas on kinda cool looking see http://www.holmesfamily.ws/240zideas/index.html) Can anyone with largeish tire/wheel combo comment - maybe you see your car on my link, if so mail me and I can caption it correctly with wheel/tire size . Thanks Mike

This is a rough list of a good number of tire racks ultra performance summer tires. I was trying to see which sizes of tire had the most choices. It is obvious that 17 win followed by 16 and 15 with no 14" tires in the set I looked at PilotSport SP2 205 55 17 PilotSport SP2 225 45 17 PilotSport SP2 235 40 17 PilotSport SP2 235 45 17 PilotSport SP2 235 50 17 PilotSport SP2 245 40 17 PilotSport SP2 245 45 17 PilotSport SP2 255 40 17 PilotSport SP2 265 40 17 PilotSport SP2 275 40 17 AVS Sport 205 55 16 AVS Sport 225 50 16 AVS Sport 225 55 16 AVS Sport 245 45 16 AVS Sport 205 50 17 AVS Sport 215 45 17 AVS Sport 225 45 17 AVS Sport 235 40 17 AVS Sport 235 45 17 AVS Sport 245 40 17 AVS Sport 245 45 17 AVS Sport 245 45 17 AVS Sport 255 40 17 AVS Sport 255 45 17 AVS Sport 275 40 17 AVS Sport 285 40 17 AVS Sport 315 35 17 ECSTA MX 205 50 15 ECSTA MX 205 55 16 ECSTA MX 225 50 16 ECSTA MX 205 40 17 ECSTA MX 215 40 17 ECSTA MX 215 45 17 ECSTA MX 225 45 17 ECSTA MX 235 45 17 ECSTA MX 245 40 17 ECSTA MX 245 45 17 ECSTA MX 245 45 17 ECSTA MX 255 40 17 ECSTA MX 255 45 17 ECSTA MX 275 40 17 ECSTA MX 285 40 17 Pilot Sport 205 50 16 Pilot Sport 225 45 16 Pilot Sport 225 50 16 Pilot Sport 205 50 17 Pilot Sport 215 45 17 Pilot Sport 225 45 17 Pilot Sport 225 45 17 Pilot Sport 225 45 17 Pilot Sport 235 40 17 Pilot Sport 245 40 17 Pilot Sport 245 40 17 Pilot Sport 245 45 17 Pilot Sport 255 45 17 Pilot Sport 255 45 17 Pilot Sport 265 40 17 Pilot Sport 275 40 17 Pilot Sport 285 40 17 Pilot Sport 335 35 17 Sp SPORT 9000 195 50 15 Sp SPORT 9000 195 55 15 Sp SPORT 9000 205 50 15 Sp SPORT 9000 225 50 15 Sp SPORT 9000 205 45 16 Sp SPORT 9000 205 50 16 Sp SPORT 9000 205 55 16 Sp SPORT 9000 215 55 16 Sp SPORT 9000 215 55 16 Sp SPORT 9000 225 50 16 Sp SPORT 9000 225 50 16 Sp SPORT 9000 225 55 16 Sp SPORT 9000 245 45 16 Sp SPORT 9000 205 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 205 50 17 Sp SPORT 9000 215 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 215 50 17 Sp SPORT 9000 225 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 235 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 235 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 235 55 17 Sp SPORT 9000 245 40 17 Sp SPORT 9000 245 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 245 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 255 40 17 Sp SPORT 9000 255 45 17 Sp SPORT 9000 275 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 205 50 15 g-Force T/A KD 205 50 15 g-Force T/A KD 225 50 15 g-Force T/A KD 225 50 15 g-Force T/A KD 205 55 16 g-Force T/A KD 205 55 16 g-Force T/A KD 225 50 16 g-Force T/A KD 225 50 16 g-Force T/A KD 205 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 205 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 205 50 17 g-Force T/A KD 205 50 17 g-Force T/A KD 225 45 17 g-Force T/A KD 225 45 17 g-Force T/A KD 245 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 245 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 245 45 17 g-Force T/A KD 245 45 17 g-Force T/A KD 255 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 255 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 275 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 275 40 17 g-Force T/A KD 315 35 17 g-Force T/A KD 315 35 17 Potenza RE050 225 50 16 Potenza RE050 215 45 17 Potenza RE050 225 45 17 Potenza RE050 225 50 17 Potenza RE050 245 40 17 Potenza RE050 245 40 17 Potenza RE050 245 45 17 Potenza RE050 245 45 17 Potenza RE050 245 45 17 Potenza RE050 245 50 17 ContiSportContact 2 205 50 16 ContiSportContact 2 205 55 16 ContiSportContact 2 205 55 16 ContiSportContact 2 205 55 16 ContiSportContact 2 205 55 16 ContiSportContact 2 205 55 16 ContiSportContact 2 205 55 16 ContiSportContact 2 225 50 16 ContiSportContact 2 205 40 17 ContiSportContact 2 205 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 205 50 17 ContiSportContact 2 205 50 17 ContiSportContact 2 205 55 17 ContiSportContact 2 215 40 17 ContiSportContact 2 215 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 225 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 225 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 225 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 225 50 17 ContiSportContact 2 235 40 17 ContiSportContact 2 235 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 235 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 235 50 17 ContiSportContact 2 235 55 17 ContiSportContact 2 245 40 17 ContiSportContact 2 245 40 17 ContiSportContact 2 245 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 245 45 17 ContiSportContact 2 255 40 17

They look great, thanks for the info

Hi all, I was looking for insparation in the wheel department and wondered if anyone can shed any light on the wheels shown here http://www.zcarparts.com/images/shows/P4248146.jpg It would be nice to know where they came from their size and which tires are fitted. The dont appear to have the right spokes to be a true panasport or minilight. Thanks Mike

I have a LT1 with Sanderson headers to 2 1/2 pipes that enter a Y behind the T56. This then enters a 3" bullet muffler before the diff and continues as 3" before it exits in the normal place via a dynomax super turbo muffler. It was quite a bit of work to make it fit so that looks as if it was supposed to be there. I was initially dissapointed as it is very quiet untill you stomp on it, definitely a sleeper.

Wheelman, I have the basicaly the same set up as you and exactly the same problem. I was beginning to think that that was just the way it should be as I havn't found many posts from unhappy owners of the tokico spring/strut package. My tokico springs say 5020-F and 5020-R and I put the Fs on the front and it looks just like your pictures and rides hard as hell and bottoms out on the bump stops. Last night I got so fed up with the ride I swapped the springs end for end and when I finish and drive it today I will post the results, but it looks like the front is hight and back far lower - however it feels softer. Does anyone know if the illumia 5 way shocks are different between the front and back - I installed mine 4 years ago and I don't remember. This whole thing has only recently become a problem becasue it has taken me that long to get it to the status of a daily driver. edit Some how I missed your responces from tokico when I read the post - looks like the LT1 is just too heavy fror the fronts. Can any one reomend a spring rate and manurfacturer to fit the stock set up. Mike