theBrit

Hi all, I just put my qaife equipped r200 LT1/ T56 back together and I suffered the dreaded clatter as the diff rose and let the drive shaft touch the hand brake bracket in my case. I have read a ton of solutions to this on Hybrid Z, but I like to home brew and I though that some solutions I read about didn't look like a Datsun original part. So I just welded some thick stock to the sides of the standard Datsun diff mount, I did this very slowly so that there was little heat build up to damage the rubber. I then tapped it to take 2 bolts on each face and hung an inverted 'U' shape off it that passes under the stock differential front cross member and put in a 1/2" rubber pad in the saddle of the 'U'. Now when the diff lifts it also starts to compress this rubber and it seamlessly stops the diff lifting. Under normal driving the stock Datsun mount works unhindered so there is no increase in harshness as you get with a solid mount. In addition to working flawlessly, it looks stock, is easy to make, easy to fit and remove and is dead simple. I am tickled pink, it came out so well. Mike

I did the same thing but I had to cut the tip off the indicator needle as the automotive needle is a touch longer. The result looks factory perfect, I did not have such an easy time with the smaller gagues, in the end gave up trying to figure out how to fit them so that they looked stock.

Acording the the two microfiche on http://www.carfiche.com/ The bearings in the R200 from OCT 72 are the same as those of a R200 out of a 280zx. The part numbers are side bearings 38440-n3100 pinion rear 38120-g10000 pinion front 38120-13201

Thanks, I will add that to my spread sheet. I would never have beleiveded it would be so hard to cross reference everything, I think I will have to visit some industrial/automotive bearing retailers in person and look in their books to be sure of what fits which year.

I have a R200 with 3.545 gears from an unknown donor car. I went nuts and bought a quaife LS, and I want to rebuild it with new bearings and seals whilst I am at it. The problem I have is finding bearings and seals without knowing the year of the car the diff came from. Are the bearings the same for all of the possible donors ? As I understand it could have come from any of the following. 280Z Manual 75-78 R200 3.545:1 280ZX Man. Turbo (B/W T-5) 83 R200 3.545:1 280ZX Turbo W/Auto All R200 3.545:1 There are lots of references in the forums to differences in the ring gear bolts sizes, but the quaif is drilled for 10 and 12 mm so that is fine. Just about any link I chase lists lots of 4x4 stuff but nothing for the r200, the next closest is rockauto and their web page requires a year and model, but does list a variety of bearings. Thanks Mike

My MSD pump was as loud as hell when I first got it running (95 LT1) then I checked the fuel pressure, it was 60 psi! I had stupidly thought I could get away with the stock fuel lines for a while, but when I pulled the return off the regulator and dumped it into a can rather than returning it to the tank I found that the the pressure was perfect AND the pump was dead quiet. I installed Camaro sized lines and have been smileing ever since. Mike

Try http://www.airflo.com/rubberparts.html for rubber elbos that look like they should be on a car, I had a home depot drain pipe intake, it looked ok paited up but this is better Mike

I just finished my conversion LT1 T56 -> 240z and I stuck with the stock GM harness which was carefully removed with the engine from the donor. I was intimidated at first (despite being an engineer) but if you just do one thing at a time you are done before you know it. A benefit is much less work and everything up to the connector that hooks to the z can be looked up is a stock camaro manual in my case. As for the painless stuff, it is nice to get the package, but I did look up all the individual components and you can replicate what they did quite easily. A good source I found was http://www.waytekwire.com along with the normal electronics suppliers on the web.

I have a summit MSD-2225, it is as noisy as hell but works well. You need to mount it on extra rubbeer feet and wrap it in sound insulation. I figure it won't overheat becasue of the fuel passing through it.

I used the smaller header and I am very happy.

Hi I just got my LT1 conversion on the road this morning so I went up and down the block and it is AWESOME ! It runs really smooth and strong... But, it is idling way too fast, I checked all the vacume connections I can find EGR, Brake booster etc and they are all blocked off or connected to somehting. I have LT1 edit and it is complaining about the VSS signal (code 97) and that the check engine ligt is not connected (code 11) which it is correct. I have disabled the EGR etc in the PCM. Does anyone have any other ideas ? I expect it is some thing dumb I have done becasue it is working like a dream otherwise. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks Mike

Hi all Just a quick note to save you some of the fustration I have had fabricating my exhaust. Although I have been fairly happy with products from the chassis shop in general, I recently have had a string of their tight 3 inch 90 degree bends arrive with holes in. Their web site say there are a new product, I would have to agree that they are SO new, that their manufacture is not yet perfected. From their product line the much more expensive donut is the best soulution. See HybridZ Photo Gallery > User galleries > theBrit > exhaust Mike

I have a 71 Z with a 95 LT1 and T56 all hooked up with the stock wireing harness and LT1 Edit to take out the security chip. I am just waiting for some exhaust parts. It has the ususal disk brake upgrades, shocks etc too. Fabricated a nice mount for the rear of the t56 that uses the stock mounting rubber and mounts up inside the tunnel rather than across the floor pan too. Mike

Hi All The short question is, has anyone tried a dual in, dual out muffler under a 240z in addition to a muffler(s) in the rear ? I want this to be as quiet as a regular GM car is with a LT1, primerily so that when I get on it going to work in the mornings the neighbours aren't waiting for me at night I'm thinking about hooking up my Lt1 5sp via dual 2 1/2 pipes with H pipe to two bullet mufflers( short ones might fit) to a pair of super turbo mufflers (and cut the wheel well). Also considering the same set up with a Y pipe to 3" to a single muffler in the back. Any thoughts appreciated. Mike

Can't tell from what I read from your post BUT Are you sure you didn't connect the posive to one side of the solonid and the negitive to the other ? I did this ! and when you turn the ignition it all goes wrong as you short the battery through the solonoid on the starter. one of the terminals is not supposed to be connected to anything by you as it is already connected to the starter and is grounded through the engine back to the battery.

Thanks Mike D the numbers might help me out. I did not go into a dealer yet 4BBL73z, I figured it would be so easy to get them on the web, and I wanted the instant gratification of ordering them NOW

Has anyone bought inner wheel bearings recently ? I called Motorsport Auto and they don't have them, so I have been to a number of web sites and they don't have the inners avalable either. Any thoughts ? Thanks Mike

It was so easy in the end (I read all I could from a search on serpentine ) and then modified to use what I had. Remove and junk the AC and smog pump. Gut the power steering and re mount it as a guide pulley. Take your original Datsun alternator-tensioning bracket and use it to re position the stock LT1 tensioner. (Needs to have the kink flattened a little in a vice) The bracket now mounts to the rightmost old LT1 tensioner hole, and allows the tensioner to be moved to where it can route the belt back from the alternator to the crank. Viola! You have just the Alternator driven on a 95 LT1 that fits sweetly into a 71 240z and you did it without buying anything, which is good as you can spend a LOT achieving this conversion. Mike I can email a picture to thouse interested

I have found that headman do a tradtional short block hugger for angle plug heads ( that summit and Jegs don't stock And that 'headers inc' do the flowing block hugger that they actualy list as 240z compatable angle plug LT1 header Mike

they are alloy, so I am on the hunt for headders again

Small block chevy head castings this says they are :/ I can't use the same headders as you Dan . Mike

There is something connected to the fuel rail and it has a wire comming off it in addtion to the fuel line. Is that a cut off valve or pressure sender ? Mike

I decided on an MSD pump after I read some suggestions on another thread, but now I am wondering does the ECU expect the fuel to be at a particular pressure or does it expect to be able to vary it ? Mike

Hi I was looking for your headders Dan, and on Flow Tech web site and it says flowTech Universal Street Rod 265-400 11000FLT 31000FLT 1-5/8" x 3" Will not fit angle plug heads. I'm showing my ignorance here, but does a 95 Lt1 have angle plug heads ? thanks Mike

Looks like I am going to go with alternator only. The brackets look easy to fabricate to place it low down on the drivers side. Mike