DeleriousZ

It's used on the digital dashes as a type of 'load' meter, it's what makes the bars move vertically.

That's the best I can find.

I know the guy that made that setup I think!!

I like GOOOOOOOOOOOLLLDDD. But seriously, the gold looks fantastic with that colour.

an sr20det is not better/more powerful. If you have to ask if it will fit you are not prepared to complete any kind of swap. Find another vg30e and swap it in, they are everywhere, and a hell of a lot less expensive than an sr.

The stock setup is a draw through MAF, but people have run it both draw through and blow through. A car with a mass airflow sensor doesn't measure boost, in a sense, it measures the speed/density of the air passing through it. There is no boost sensor required on a z31, altho it does have one for both the turbocharged cars and the n/a cars with a digital dash. My input on supercharging a vg30e is to take a pass on it. The amount of work involved is definitely not proportional to the result of it. For the cost of a custom installation (depending on your resources and skill set) would be about the same as a stock turbo swap, depending on price of the supercharger. A stock turbo setup on an n/a engine is good for about 190-200ishwhp with an intake and 3" exhaust on it. The stock ecu will work, it doesn't care how the engine is receiving air, it just cares how much of it (basically.) You will want to match a turbo ecu up to turbo injectors of the proper year, see the link below for more in depth stuff. You will also need to worry about your o2 sensor depending on which ecu you choose to go with. The actual engine that the ecu is used for doesn't make a whole lot of difference, just as long as all of the sensors and fuel delivery stuff that are on the engine are correct for that ecu. linky: http://redz31.net/pages/fuel.html

Man that guy is like the Bob Ross of welding.

The axles differ between the LSD and non LSD's. The mounting points should however be the same. The input flange on the differentials may be different as well.

No, the knock sensor wouldn't cause a no-run condition, unless it was super loose causing it to falsely detect knock. Try unplugging the harness from the sensor and tie it out of the way somewhere.

Do the RPM's stay with the tach or is it just a busted tach? I'm not sure what would cause that. Any sort of rattle from the front of the engine is bad news. Electronic shocks are ~$2000 from the factory, so plan on going a different route if replacing the switch and tracing the wiring doesn't solve the problem.

http://redz31.net/pages/fuel.html

That is incredibly creepy.

get some good flux and some wire braid, it works pretty well. The fastest way IMO would be just to cut and replace. That way you can heat shrink it all.

Time for a time out.

I think you're a tad late on this one killer, this thread is over 3 years old.