dapiper

Yeah, thanks to all comments and sorry, should have mentioned I've checked all those fasteners in the drive train and suspension, even the transverse link thrust bolts which can cause clunk when going up hill on rough road. Diff barking badly tonight and stalled motor repeatedly when at near idle, attempted to pull into parking spot with wheels turned moderately. Is this a clue the clutch pack is off or something?

Any Volvo, rabbbit or golf has the bosche pump which flows 47 GPH at 70 psig at 12V

The clicking may be a sticking valve, which would cause miss at idle and oscillation in mainfold vacuum of 2 inHg or so.

Replaced half shaft UJ to no avail; clunk persists. Anyone repair my Nismo LSD diff? Local shops all say can't because they need shim packs to set lash.

Just replaced UJ in my '77 Z and cost $185 with glass bead and repaint using Spicer's. Thought about CV retro, but will wait 'til Winter and do the stub axles mod as well, all for about $950.

Are those Arias?

That hazzard sw has quite a few poles and many functions inter-twined in elec sys like a Kudzu vine. Watch out, take care, beware!

Never mind; think we've got a cam trigger design; don't put more than a 0.5" tooth on the fuel pump eccentric or it won't clear cam cover.

MSD makes a tacho trigger module for voltaged triggered tachs, essentially an autotransformer and cap to swing the 12V sq wave up to 200V

I suffer the same malady, suspect poor fuel which causes inj to clog, especially overnight during hot soak. This is more frequent now that we are in midst of another fuel crisis. There are now several gas stations I will no longer visit. Gas can be purchased cheaper on the spot market, but it may be quite old and prone to clogging inj. Don't buy cheapest fuel during a crisis, you may be getting old fuel that has been in storage longer. Suggest either replacement of fuel or just take long trip to burn it out. Driving at freeway speeds for extended periods (50-75 mi) may clear it up. Try a can of Techeron.

I get 48 GPH at 70 psig from my Bosche from old Rabbit, same P/N.

Had to work on my light switch and found trim mounting studs cracked. Shells are intact but no way to clamp. Condition is beyond repair, even superglue. Application is '77 280Z. Color is black.

Injector bore hole size should be in 11mm (0.433") range for Mitsu. O-rings from RC (green ones) measure 0.460" uncompressed and should have about 0.020 inteference fit. My Pallnet is too tight at 0.420 and even prelubed destroys o-rings, cannot reuse. At least they don't leak.

NGKBP8ES gapped at 0.035". L28 N42 at 20 psi, 435rwhp, intercooled, 100 octane unleaded, 18° initial, 35° total, retarded to 28° with MSD 6T, MSD helicoil wires, RC550's, analog ECU with hotwire mass air sensor. Cam is old Racer Brown turbo grind 226/246° at 0.050" lift. Arias, O-ring block 8:1 CR. Total seal second ring. Turbo is Turbonetics H3. Exhaust is 3" with Dynomax oval. Much chamber work with 3.5 cc removed to unshroud valves and polished. A/F estimated in 10's at boost. New engine same, except added Swaintech coatings on piston domes and skirts. Not on dyno yet, since still breaking in at 12 psi on 93 octane. A/F in high 11's at boost. Noticed poor idle since rebuild with RC inj, suspect pencil thin spray pattern prone to fouling. Will experiment with gap and report results. Anyone called plug mfr for info on trends for gap vs A/F, CR and boost parameters?

I retained the L28 for originality within the brand and turbo's more of a engineering challenge. My bud had a V8 Z and it never pulled like mine when on the boost. I get 300 RWHP at 11 psi and 410 at 18 and 435 at 21 psi. The bottom end of the L28 consistes of 7 deep webbed main brgs, very strong, but don't try to spin it over 7K RPM on a regular basis. Easy to upgrade, start modest and build from there in steps. The stock L28ET is gud for 270 HP with intercooler. Need custom EFI and forged pistons with o-ring over 15 psi or so.

Any chance of repair clunk noise in my 3.90 clutch type LSD R200 diff? Locals all say they can't, since no one has shims.

Need early '75-'78 280Z distributor.

Need early '75-'78 280Z distributor.

Spend $ on tires and you will be to busy driving to be distracted by music. Although I once new a hotshoe autocrosser who used the "Ride of the Valkyries" by R. Wagner as inspiration before a run. Hoyoto Hoo!

Decided on Autronic based on recommendations at runoffs. Local Motec rep dropped ball. Will advise experiences soon. OBTW, those RC's have pencil thin race pattern, so don't expect smooth idle.

Need old mech fuel pump eccentric drive that rides on front of cam to mount cam trigger for EFI.

Be advised, the brown PTFE coated head gasket did not static seal on my N42; coolant leaked on plug side when topping off even b4 being started. It did not stick when removed. I believe it was NAPA, since ordered another and it was identical. I replaced it with an original Nissan part that was in my junk box, the one with all the contact adhesive and it sealed fine. The Stone furnished in the MSA kit and a dealer supplied one ($58 special order) are all graphite with no adhesive. Apparently no longer source for orig asbestos with adhesive version. Meanwhile, what happened to Cometec lot buy?

Email if u need 'em for L28, just fab'd. See my pix in forum. OBTW, why can't I post pix here?

Update on suspect RC inj; engine had cracked head #4 cyl leaking coolant which caused rings to loose temper necessitating engine rebuild. Now in break-in period with boost limited to 10 psi. Undecided on EFI ECU choice. Recommendations, experiences?