dapiper

I used a CF DF for years on street tires, but get a 2+2 flywheel and clutch for over 15 psi.

My 16" Staul (??) pulls 18A.

Make sure pump is getting voltage. There may be large drop with stock wiring. Use relay with #10 wire direct to batt thru maxifuse.

The problem is the OEM L28ET exh manifold is only 4 sq in

Thanks for the encouragement. How do you enlarge OEM T03, just weld on T04 flange. I there material enough to hog out to T04 size hole?

Thanks mate, I was afeared of this. My supplier sang same song. Now I know why my turbine backpress is so high. Oh boo hoo. What's a fella to do. I guess I'll have to use the OEM exh manifold and cobble an ext wastegate. Sounds ugly. What's this about Euro manifold? Where and how much?

Was considering GT35, but only available in tangential turbine housings and with CCW feed the turbo offsets 2.5" toward fender which is too much; it will hit the brake distribution block, which I could relocate, but I still don't think it will fit. I am using old BAE turbine inlet pipe designed for TO4 foot. I could use the L28ET exh manifold, but that TO3 flange sure looks small. Then it will run hotter being tucked under the intake more. And then what do you guys do for a wastegate? Arghh! I may be stuck with this slow to spool H3 and limited to 400 HP. I may be relegated to using the 60-2 instead, since Turbonetics said the on center is available. I wonder how much it will compromise the effy?

Bummer. I run 10W40 Amsoil synthetic with turbo oil pump and get about 10 psi at 800RPM and 50 psi at 3K RPM. I have a 16 row Earls cooler with thermostatic built in oil filter cooler adapter with AN 10 lines

That's my second head and don't feel scared, just take your time and you'll be fine. First one was with a drill, but much better to use die grinder with the right tool. Will try to post better pix, meanwhile send PM and I can show tool used that allows undercut of sides of chamber. You may loose some idle vacuum. I removed 3.5 cc each chamber. You may need to clean up some more after valve job, since grinder will sink seats some and create some ridges.

I bought a PicoScope last Fall after switching to Autronics EFI and DIS. It's dual channel to 50 MHz and plugs into USB on my laptop. Works like a DSO plus has datalogger. Figure around $800 with all the cables you'll need from Swangate. I got the model 8532 rather than the expensive auto version, since I did not need all the custom SW that configs the inputs for all the measurements like ign, coil dwell, inj response, etc.

Measure voltage drop from alternator Batt term to pos on battery, should be less that 0.25V or fusible link bad or bad connection at batt or starter. Measure voltage drop from alt ground to batter neg term; should be less than 0.15 V, otherwise clean all chassis grounds from harness.

See my pix in Member Galleries

Went thru 3 alternators since September. The alt was working overtime to keep up with the 0.8V drop in the harness to the battery. Replaced fusible links with fuse block brought voltage back up.

Discovered why my MAP boost curve so ragged. Thread over on Innovate LMA-3 forum concerned where to put pressure tap and possible filtering by use of small 0.025 orifice inline to sensor. I had my tap on cyl #6 on N42 intake plenum and moved to the central tap used for OEM regulator; really smoothed out the MAP, and the AFR as well, since random nature of MAP sig to ECU affected AFR. Darn ECU just too quick at sampling. Also considering moving tap to regulator there as well, but concerned it may cause pressure bumps due to diaphragm movement. Didn't someone fab a distribution block for MAP users?

Seems like it's always something simple. What inj? RC's have a garden hose (narrow) pattern ideal for racing.

Max size inj with batch fire is about 45 pph, more than that and sequential inj allows better turndown at idle, otherwise too rich.

You will want to run sequential inj, which requires a crank and cam trigger. Crank trigger is easy, use your distributor as cam trigger or fab cam trigger from old fuel pump eccentric on nose of cam; weld on tooth and use hall effect sensor mounted on inspection plate brkt.

See my pix in photo album for 2 5/8" Autometer.

I've noticed that my data acq shows maybe 500 rpm increase above my shift point when I drop the throttle at around 6K RPM. Should allow for this margin, since engine will coast on up some, especially with lighter flywheel and lower gear and higher power which makes engine grab revs faster, thereby increasing inertial effect. My flywheel stock 2+2. OBTW, I set my rev limiter to 7K RPM

I love my LM-1, LMA-3, XD-1 combo. Just velcro the XD-1 to dash on left above vent looks high tech and much easier to read during driving. Best to datalog during bonzai testing however.

Thanks guys for the encouragement. I will be using the N42 block, so it probably already has the restrictor. I will check the head for one too. Yeah, I freaked the first time a machinist removed the cam bearing towers, but guess you have to when its warped in order to mill both sides. Makes installing springs much easier too.

I'm thinking just use my cam towers and oiler bar from N42 head on P90 and ensure cam turns freely. Cam is not drilled. I'ts either that or have my profile ground on drilled stock P90 cam. What say? Anyone tried this?

Yeah, I estimated I'd gain 0.15 CR in middle cyl, if they milled 0.010", since I would loose 1.5cc