dapiper

We just flowed some "STOCK" turbo inj at 260cc/min at 38 psi (30PPH), good for 280 hp at 0.6 BSFC and 90% duty. Should be OK at 12 psi with I/C as long as pump can keep up, not sure about additional back press from boost restricting pump. I know stock non-turbo pump cannot handle any backpress and only flowed 25 GPH. Some "replacement" inj only flowed 235cc/min with bad spray pattern.

Changed from OEM EFI and now no water temp gauge. Can we just use same sensor and gauge wired direct?

I also have two grinds of Racer Brown's and I set at 0.006I/0.008"E at valve overnight cold.

You will never flow 100 Amp thru stock harness, especially with fusible links.

Your cam is shot, probably due to bad lube. Check your cam oiler for plugging.

Don't worry unless you have less than 50 psi at 3k RPM

Small wg will cause boost creep, predominately at low boost. I ran a 1" Turbonetics deltagate for years at over 400 hp with a 5 psi spring, but when turned down, boost easily crept up to 7 psi. A smaller wg will control better, less pressure fluctuations. Need biggest diaphragm you can get to provide "gain" for proportional action. Now using Tial 38 mm with no discernable creep, but lap those flanges true and use gasket with integral firering.

Egad that header is butt ugly. I wud never....

I hope my larger intercooler (225 in2, up from 160 in2)will help, combined with cold air intake. I measured 100F intake charge temps last week here in SC and 75 - 85F at night with very noticable difference in torque. Heat is the enemy of turbo's. A good EFI with tuning does help alot.

That early Crown kit is a motor killer. Ask me how I know. The carb float valve is only good for 18GPH or 200 hp, then leans out and poof-soot to your ring lands. Check out my improved version on this sites classifieds which uses 2" HD8 Jag carb good for over 300 hp.

Mine went on fine onto L28 N42 crank

Seems to be when spring rebounds over bump. Just started suddenly and have not been running hard either. Had just jacked diff to reseat bead on right rear tire after inexplicable flat. Very loud fierce clunk but rides fine. Notice slight clunk when jumping on the fender when stationary. All parts tight. Sway bar links ok and thrust bushings on rear links tight. No clunk when on and off power.

Had that on my old 240. It was excessive play in the rear hub axle splines, had to replace entire rear axle and strut assy as unit.

I see my power drop through the gears on sustained boost. My I/C 10X16" fin and tube 2" thick; too small for over 400 hp, especially when weather is hot. Charge temp climbs from 30C to 60C (128F) after run through gears and 5 sec of top gear sustained boost. Bigger is better, especially for Bonneville car when you consider the heat capacity effect of all that aluminum.

We just broke one this weekend and it its not standard 0.25" blade but slightly larger, otherwise you could repair. Get a quad Maxi fuse block and demo the plastic cups.

How much head and block surface material removed? One tooth is 18 deg ok, but not two. If you have to move the sprocket two teeth to get it on the cam nose while aligned with V notch, then suspect chain slipped. Bring crank to TDC and with the cam dowel pin aligned to the V notch, install cam sprocket on chain so that sprocket can slip onto cam nose. Should be close. may need to rotate cam slightly. Your chain may be too short or to long. Your harmonic balancer ring may have slipped. Check TDC with long screwdriver in plug hole and observe handle while rotating crank. Only way to be sure is to degree cam. See Braap's write up.

Loose the Blowmaster; had 7 psi drop at 18 psi and 375 HP; jumped to 410 at same boost with DynoMax, all at 3".

Loose the Blowmaster; had 7 psi drop at 18 psi and 375 HP; jumped to 410 at same boost with DynoMax, all at 3".

Bootyful. Nice work. Now I am inspired to clean up my act.

Oh man, You gotta go DIS...looks so trick. I didn't expect much under normal driving but very noticable smoother response difficult to discribe and you can have any timing you want or the engine needs. No spark scatter or timing bounce at higher RPM when the weights bounce of their stops. No cross firing in the cap. Oh baby, why did you wait so long. What a hoot!

HKS said not to go smaller than 89 mm bore due to possible gasket damage. Not sure why. Were you at ZDayZ?

You still have time for a refund

Someone paid $950.

You may not want to hear this but a leaking head gasket will make it run hot. Are you losing coolant?

Tubes too long and too different. Why didn't he center turbo? Need at least 3" to clear down pipe from the #6 tube. What turbo was it designed for? Have to extrude hone to assure all slag from all those welds wouldn't hit the turbine impeller. Add on Jet coating.