660Z

my first 4sp was out of a 84 firebird 305....it was a super t-10 the last year they made them.it had a 3:43 1st gear which made it feel like a trucks granny gear behind any motor with more grunt than a 305...it really sucked for performance! it lasted 2yrs before i blew the cluster gear...manual gear ratios go like this...the higher the ratio the weaker the trans!!!...the trans is ok until you find somthing better but like everything automotive in the late70`s early 80`s they suck and are nowhere near as strong as they`er 60`s early 70`s counterparts....mark

anyone use this? i want to keep my stock hood latch in it`s stock location for the sbc and im looking for alternitives....i remember a timing cover years ago that moves the sbc distributor up front...anyone know who makes these? anyone use the MSD low profile dist with the hood latch? anyone know of a basic DIS system for around 500? the ones ive found are in the 1200 range and that`s more than i want to spend.....thanks mark

i remember this cover YEARS ago...anybody use it,seen it,knows who makes it? also anyone use the MSD lowprofile distributor w/crank trigger ignition....basicly i want to keep my stock hood latch in the stock location...thanks mark

i tried to run a search but it didn`t work....anyway i remember something about z`s having differnt trans tunnles for the automatic cars?....if so does that mean no self adjusting tool useage to fit a GM automatic?...mark

for those Z`s with perfect floorboards..has anyone made bolt on frame connectors..im thinking from the T/C mount to the front rear dif mount or frame same area.....mark

what 15 rubels = 47 cents ...know wonder she said there not worth buying when i offered to buy them off of her...and to think i gave her $6.25 in extra states coins i had laying around...oh well it`s worth it to me. sorry these girls won`t be on russian girls gone wild....but i did see things im sure i wasn`t ment to see

spent my vacation on the outerbanks in N.C this week with my friends famliy and 2 Russian girls, that were here working for the summer.they spoke english very well and had no trouble holding a conversation.they`re both strick christains so nothing happend they`re both cute..Masha 20 looks more European than russian and Sveta 24 looks Swedish with blonde hair and blue eyes.Both are very very smart and are full-time students in Vladimere (near Moscow)they take education very seriously, working during the day and studying late into the night 24/7.I tried to learn their language but it was all Russian to me I got a 5 rubel coin and a 10 rubel note from Sveta (im still trying to figure out what they say ) And man these girls are thin! but not too thin.nice T@A they eat soup a lot in russia and it shows!I must say it was a very nice week indeed......mark

im looking for better 60` times and i think it can be found in my suspension....the car has way too much weight transfer and since the springs and struts are shot all around i`d thought i`d experment...besides a front swaybar whats the best way to keep the front down....can i put something on the coils?...mark

i agree it wouldn`t be ideal for autocrossing,but since i have a dragracing mind it`s sounds ideal for the 1/4 mile.the TCI powerglide works basicly like pete said a stock PG has a valve that regulates line pressure via the throttle linkage.TCI`s PG with modified valvebody turns that valve into a valve that "dumps the line pressure resulting in a clutch like action" just mount your slave cyl to the bellhousing so it moves the lever a 1/2" back. hook up your clutch pedel (yes the one dangleing in mid air for you auto guys)and your good to go.oh and you need either a coupling or a non functional tourqe converter (isn`t that what pete said?)...as far as it being streetable they say you can smoothly drive it onto your trailer....mmmmmm where`s that pressure valve in a turbo350??????... pete! you should seriously think about making up that shifter that sounds like a winner to me...chrysler should have made a shifter like that instead of the autostick what a joke that is. that`s not like driving a stick like they advertise....i say call up pete he`s got one made of cardboard (just don`t get it wet)....mark

thanks for the imput guys...yes scottie that is what im trying to correct or at least lessen..back in the day my nova had great weight transfer i had it launching with 14" street tires 22" tall! with no traction devices at all!!...a little traction loss and no wheel hop...the big secret was rear leaf springs (2-3yrs old) WORN OUT shocks i mean when i finally changed them the passenger side had no resistance...i ran no front swaybar for a while and later added one but it made no differance...and at the time it was mid 12`s...added 125 shot NOS and slicks to prove a point to some mustang guys and put air under the left front tire and gained a little over a second. anyway my theory for my 240 is...im wasting useful energy in wasted weight transfer remember my springs and shocks are shot...going over a micron of dust puts the front on the stoppers..and i think holding the front end down would force the rear down harder at a more even or level rate speading the energy across the rear..see in my rambleings about my nova what made everything work so well is the suspension forced the framestops on both sides of the axle tubes and all that force and body weight transfered to the launch...but the body on my independant rear isn`t doing that granted im getting 1.8 60`s walking out on DR`s but i think it could do better....watch the big boys i guess pro mods? or "worlds fastest steet cars" they are as low and flat as possable..very rigid on their launch.....i just don`t know how to safely keep the frontend down since they have no upper A arms...mark p.s. scottie im with you all the way on your launch when i do the suspension i`ll look like a copy cat to yours...im just thinking outside the box while i have the chance.

for some reason im intriged by this idea.it`s like the best of both worlds.the launch of dumping the clutch and fast shifting of an auto and then the direct drive of the clutch at top end....TCI makes it for the powerglide for dirt track...but i haven`t seen a set up for a turbo 350....it`s not a new idea some of the racers did it in the 50`s...i think it`s a cool idea from a racers veiw point, it would be much better than say a 10" 3500 stall!!!!...at the track launch at 3500-4k then drive normal on the street home instead of driving 3500 at 30mph!!!....opinons anyone?.......mark

charge light....i was told on bad... off good....ok i understand that..but im thinking i might have mine wired wrong becaulse i don`t see a problem. it`s wired per JTR... internal reg. alt. with R/F posts (I think going from memory right now 1am) anyway if looking from the back, the post close to the strut tower is pluged into the wiring harness and the post close to the motor is wired right to the charge light. now when i turn the key the meter reads 12v ...start the car reads 12v ....rev to 2k jumps to 14v light is on now recently i was moving cars around and i started it and removed the battery...car dies...start it again..rev to 2k..remove battery car stays running...which tells me alt is working fine and light is also telling me that by being on. am i wrong? ive used these type alt for a long time with other cars...but this is a first with this stupid light...ive only seen it off once in the month ive been driving it. thanks mark

my 240z is popping in the front suspension.i suspect the T/C rods bushings....is it something i should be worried about?...or is it just something these cars do?....ive had it for almost a yr and never really gave it much thought until my truck`s balljoint let loose.......mark

i already had the car and motor...and i have $1900 into it as it sits including DR`s and Victor jr intake....i could have done it a lot cheeper going to swapmeets and what not,but it was faster and easier to buy new. off the top of my head... JTR L/R set back plates,trans crossmember...111.00 carb 830db....380.00 victor jr.intake.....170? hooker headers....134.00 r200 rears (2)...300.00 driveshaft and adapter...110.00 exshust....340.00 dragradials...208.00 and the nickle and dime stuff that always get you!!!! it really would be cheaper to buy one already done and modify it the way you want as time goes on...if you want to build one get one that`s rust free in the frame and floorboards...the motorwork is easy...strengthening the body for your motor isn`t......mark

i can`t wait for retardment...im only half way there! ....although some say im already there....

sorry guys guess i should have been more clear that it is my s-10 truck but as any young jedi knight knows always learn from the force....it`s good to know that early z`s balljoints are bolt in.....but i don`t think i`ll have to worry about a 30+ yr old car. both American and japanese, since both made quality parts back then!...unlike the cost cutting crap they use today! sorry still a little angery.....mark

well just talked to the shop ...having all 4 balljoints replaced along with 2 tie rods and adjuster,lower A arm bushings,backing plate and alingment....all for 550-600 he said the lower a arm was pushed back an 1" and the bushing bolt went right throught the lowercontrol arm bushings.the inner and outer tie rods were bent and the backing plate was pushed into the rotor. man i was when she told me the price i didn`t expect to pay that much...becausle i can do the work myself, i just don`t have a ball joint press and i need the truck for vacation in a week...so i talked to the mechanic and everything he said sounded possable...so i guess it`s better that it went a 5-10mph instead of 70-80mph....could have cost me a lot more.. mark P.S. as you`ll read in the replies below this is my 94 s-10 truck and not my z car...mark

sorry pete it`s been a LONGGGG day....

i don`t think you`ll be able to get one of those for $3250...i didn`t see a price but i would guess the street one goes for around 8k and the race goes for around 10-12k....i`d just find a 454 out of a old motorhome and build it to those power levels for 1/4 the price....mark

DOH!!!!!!!

the charge light on the volt guage....am i to understand that it`s NOT supposed to stay on all the time?....i thought the light was an idiot light for people that didn`t know how to read a volt guage so they know their alt was working....oh well it`s probablly becaulse i use the twist-terminal-tighting method becaulse i use one battery for 3 toys....yes im cheap!!!! ...mark

i was more relieved than anything else....messing with online security isn`t funny to me.....mark

all i did was bent a 1/8 flat metal bar over the rear....and bolted it to the two bolts on top of the rear and two bolts on the front crossmember....if you still have a r180 front member the holes are already there i used 3/8 header bolts and you`ll need i think 5.5-6" bolts for the rear. quite a few are using this type of unit...just bend the bar in a vise...no welding keep it all one unit....no noise or vibration...won`t loosen up and chances are never break.it one of those things that people over engineer and it doesn`t need to be....mark

car]www.prestage.com] also go to the humor section...very funny..also true....mark

awww man!!!! i never thought about it replacing the luv that means it also replaced the isuzu pup!...now im bummed acually it`s been a really good truck.it`s a SS model so it has the better suspension,not sure about balljoints but larger swaybar,stiffer shocks and springs.other than the rear brakes always needing adjusting they seem to be wearing normal. my cousin who owns a towing company told me broken balljoints are a comon problem he`s always towing them.i just think GM has gotten cheap with the parts that matter most when driving....mark