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Everything posted by budgy

  1. Car is going into the shop for phase 1 of the build soon. Just waiting on mounts and other goodies from McKinney and Engine/transmission/wiring harness from ZFever. Made a harrowing drive to Montana a couple days ago to pick up a ton of stuff from Techno Toy, just happened to be after a pretty major blizzard. CV Axles from Futofab. Also a one off, Walnut w/Mahogany stripe shift knob with the correct thread pitch for the 370Z transmission.
  2. Not sure what happened there, Flickr is usually safe for me. Screenshots are the next best thing; custom gauges by New Vintage USA. Redline is actually 8100, but I like the way the 8K spacing works over 10K. doing custom tach redline would have added significantly to the cost. These were not cheap but I am happy I did them seeing the night time shots.
  3. Decided I would start a thread to chronicle some of my build so I can look back and remember the fun I had doing this. ZFever has harnesses for the VQ37HR working great with Osiris/Uprev which makes this swap a reality now. Got a few pictures as the car is now, I blew up my 3.2 stroker build not long after that action shot was taken. Block I believe failed due to heat stress. Got some pics of that aftermath, I thought the engine would just run cooler if I dumped a ton of coolant into the crankcase. Blew off a PCV line and had a crazy amount of vapour pour out of the engine bay on the
  4. Not sure you found the answers you need on those coolant lines but you can bypass the throttle bodies rather than routing the coolant through them instead would be better than 'capping' the lines that will almost always spring a leak. Just have the lines connect to each other directly rather than 'through' the throttle bodies. You can still remove some of the excess lines, have the added benefit of a potentially colder inlet air and no chance of a leak. I would be a little concerned about welding shut the coolant passage on the engine itself as on a modern aluminum engine a ton of R & D i
  5. Blew my stroker build chasing down a 993 Porsche Turbo on the track a couple weeks ago. Was thinking of doing a VQ35HR as I knew the VQ37HR is more challenging due to the intake system control. I would strongly suggest getting in touch with Z-Fever out of Florida, the VQ37HR stuff is not on their website but they can modify the harness to work and probably save you a ton of time. Once I knew they got it working with factory ECU I decided on VQ37HR as well, more power and more plentiful to find replacement engines if you ever have issues. Good luck!
  6. I would strongly recommend getting a wideband gauge installed in the car to help tune the carbs the way you want them. Mikuni generally recommends hitting an AFR of 12:1 under WOT (wide open throttle) for maximum power but still with a safety net. Going a bit leaner than that will make a bit more power. Best to test based on being in a high gear like 4th or 5th for testing your AFR under the heaviest loads you can put the car under. If you put a wide band in and can witness what is going on in real time you can ultimately tune your car much better for power. Generally putting in more fuel will
  7. Since you have the 40's you should run them first. I don't see why it isn't enough carb unless you are running high RPM all the time. I know you can't always tell based on the specs but your cam doesn't sound like its made for a high rpm screamer more of an excellent midrange? I have 45mm carbs on a cam that's a bit larger and similar compression but its also almost a 3.2 litre engine. If you are planning on running an excellent crank dampener and revving to really high RPM's then you might need a bit larger carb to take advantage of that but you would likely also want more cam too.
  8. Yeah I imagine its a big advantage essentially because you can pretty much just leave the car in one gear and almost never need to shift.
  9. Congratulations Derek! You must feel like Dr. Frankenstein or something, just maybe a little crazier?
  10. Maybe a simple rev limit would be better if your low end torque and throttle response is still good? Or is that not going to allow enough gearing flexibility? Those are pretty solid numbers for sure!
  11. How is the steering effort with those massive grippy tires? Are you essentially a stock engine just with a makeshift cold air and long tube headers?
  12. Props to you for attempting the VQ37HR, I am not even sure if there is a standalone that can run the intake valve control on this engine. I heard the TB is always open all the time so I do not even know why they run coolant through the damn thing in the first place. The intake air flow is controlled by the opening of the intake valves. Its this complexity that makes me think a VQ35HR would be an easier compromise.
  13. Im saddened that I would still have a lot of bottom end work to do on my stroker if I wanted to take full advantage of this head, im already bored to 90.5! I suppose I could run what I have but with the need for custom pistons I feel I am better building a whole new block for it too.
  14. Not sure if Tony D is referring to the new NSX, but I am ignorant on that engine completely. But the point remains the same, VTEC contrary to what people believe was always intended to improve the low end drivability/emissions of a car with a big cam. When you have an inline 6 with more displacement and in a car that is going to weigh significantly less than your typical RSX or even S2000 the low end drivability issues of a 'VTEC killer' setup are likely just not going to be an issue. Leon good to see someone from S2KI following the thread
  15. You are definitely correct about what the A3 heads version of 'i-VTEC' was for. Just not sure how much it matters when there isn't going to be variable lift; I think the beautiful thing though also about this head is how much it flows with say only a .4" lift compared to a massive .6" with a stock ported head. Should leave a reasonable amount of space for valve/piston clearance and still be able to make good power in a wider range of RPM's. I certainly appreciate all the thought and care you have put into making this a head that can work for just about anyone's idea of a build.
  16. I linked this thread to the Clubrsx forums hopefully someone there will follow and be of some help. There was atleast one member there with a 240Z that loved the concept of what you are building. K20A2 Head 50.5cc combustion chamber - Has 4.25cc domed pistons hence why still a higher compression ratio. K20A3 Head 48cc combustion chamber- Has 2.5cc dished pistons. The chamber on the K20A3 has an extra quench pad that is reducing the volume. Seems to me the ones that want to make big compression and power without turbos it might almost be easier to do so with the K20A3 design so you might
  17. Not sure how you can calculate overall flow from just this one number because technically the head will flow differently at all different RPM's and bigger valves are better suited to higher RPM action. But in terms of actual size of the valve, when you calculate the surface area of a circle with a radius of 22mm (44mm valve) you get 1520 square mm. A 21mm radius (42mm valve) is 1385 square mm. This ends up being about 9% bigger in terms of area not just the radius or diameter because you are dealing with a circular object. Experienced engine builders would know much better than me, but I am a
  18. Haha I feel like I should qualify sentence and say I was being sarcastic. Got a lot of friends in the trades being in oil country, I just pull out the popcorn when I see these discussions Sorry to de-rail the thread!
  19. Man that is ever gorgeous! Don't become a plumber...maybe a pipe fitter if anything! WARNING, FOUL NSFW Language
  20. Now you're just showing off, and its glorious. Almost has a steam punk kind of look to it, if they were zinc plated lines or brass would be pretty cool too
  21. Just waiting on Crane to get cams machined? Now that they have patterns for the cams do you think they are okay with building custom grinds for other people that want to build more radical versions of your head? Looks like you can use existing timing chain tensioners as well to help stabilize that @ high rpm?
  22. I actually dreamed last night that I had a twin cam head for my L28, this thread is affecting me mentally and most likely affecting my wallet in the future.
  23. Are those #'s basically an old school bench dyno? Still impressive no matter what just curious how much this would actually put down to the tires.
  24. Perfect example of why so many efficient engines simply do not need a lot of 'boost'...high PSI levels is not exactly 'good' if it isn't required, its simply a measurement of restriction and not flow. Tony I hate to ask in this thread but regarding the bottom end of your typical stroker L28 is there any real reason why the bottom end cannot be reliably taken to 8500 RPM other than crankshaft vibrations? I know its simply good insurance to get a really good dampener like an ATI, I am just curious why very few people run a stroker crank past say 6.5~7K is it the valve train set up in the factor
  25. I am only more excited than ever to see flow numbers because it shows you are committed to getting this done. I bought a spare VQ35HR that I was planning on swapping some day...this seems just sooo much more appealing. This may seem like a dumb question but what kind of options do you plan to have available for head gaskets?
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