AkumaNoZeta

By the way I meant to post this one originally. This one does have the foam. I started this on the verge of passing out so thoughts were back and forth. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D293215%2DS&N=700+4294925239+4294839036+4294920243+4294903827+4294894951+4294908349+4294755571+115&autoview=sku This one should be easier to hook up since it has a bottom sump, but it's still aluminum. Is aluminum really that bad? I don't plan on crashing at anytime soon, I don't even drive recklessly much, especially not in the winter

I cant find one of those type with a fuel level sender. Thats a big deal with me because it's a daily driver so I want to know where my fuel level is convienently. I don't want to have to open it up and look at it every time I go to drive it.

Well, if you look at my drawing, I didn't really change too much of it to lower drag, in fact I probably made it a lot worse. But I think it may be good enough to not make it noticable when crusing but help keep the car from becoming too unstable at speeds. I'm not sure if my ideas are good or not, thats why they're on here as questions.

I have a hole in my gas tank and the fuel guage never worked either (car was sitting for a while so I think the sender could be stuck or something) I was thinking to just go ahead and get this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RCI%2D2162A&N=700+4294925239+4294839036+4294920243+4294903827+4294894951+4294908349+4294755571+115&autoview=sku but I want to know if the sender from that will work with the factory guage and would the fact that there's no foam in it cause problems with just driving a little spiritedly here and there? I'm saving up money to get the Arizona Z 4 barrell manifold and a 390cfm and I just want to get it running again. The 2 barrell set-up I bought a while back was junk.

I finally got my drawing scanned, sorry it took so long. It's not a technical drawing, I just traced a photo of the white Subtle Z car that I found a long time ago. The photo is around here somewhere. And I just "customized" it. I'm gonna get around to doing a front, side, rear, and hopefully some top and bottom drawings done. I wish I had my Z to look off of but it's back in Arkansas and I'm in school in Pennsylvania. I'm gonna try this in a list now: Custom air dam based on popular models, smooth concave surface whole way around blending into front fender Gurney flaps in front of wheel wells to help pull air out of wells (read about that on an online article about stock car racing aero) Custom grill, simple design but I want it denser, and opening blocked from the sides instead of the bottom in an attempt to increase cooling effiency of intercooler (SR20 swap in mind) On hood, scoop for engine intake on driver side and semi-circular louvers on passenger side to extract underhood air/heat Vents eliminated on cowl to build up pressure more infront of windsheild and I don't think I need the vents anyways because I always have my HVAC set to recirculate the air from inside the cabin, I never have it set on vent...thats how it works, right? Engine exhaust coming out of fender so I dont have to work around an exhaust system for making a flat underbody belly plates Plate coming out of bottom on side of car to prevent air to go underneath the car from the sides Splitter, headlight covers, aero mirrors

Oops, sorry. I didn't mean for my posts to be so hard to read. I just type what comes to mind, maybe I oughta start writing first and then organize/proofread it. lol, I should just take English in school again

I know the ride height has a lot to do with the efficiency of the design, I figure I want about 3" since it is a road vehicle. I also realize that aerodynamics plays almost no role for me since the car would spend most of its time around the posted speed limit. I don't know why I'm so interested in it, I think there's a part of me that secretly wants to be an engineer. Usually I spend a few hours thinking about the aero modifications and then punch myself while saying "Whats the point, the car wont see those kinds of speeds" but I cant help but keep on thinking about it. So even though I know it's pretty much pointless for my application the thought process and eventually design/build of it will greatly entertain me. I drew a nice picture of what I would like, as soon as I get back home I'll reinstall my all-in-one on my computer and scan/post the pic.

I dont remember terms like that so easily, gotta go over it a few times before it sticks. I just got past the section on the spoilers reducing drag yesterday (I read it during breaks at school because I get too distracted by tv and internet at home). My car came with the 3-piece spoiler and I really do like how it looks but...I don't know, I just think it looks nice wing/spoiler-less but that opinion is based on seeing one photo of a Z without and hundreds of Z with them. What I would like is some nicely squared up photos of a car with the Subtle Z wide-body from the front, side, rear, and top but I think thats a little too much to request from someone, mainly the top view.

Pertaining this to an S30, where does the laminar layer turn turbulant? Would having a cowl with you vent holes cut into it build up even more pressure in front of the windsheild reducing a little of the lift? Would placing vortex generators on the roof right in front of the rear window create a turbulant boundary to keep it attached to the rear more and without a wing or a spoiler result in less drag with the consequence of more rear end lift? My main objective is drag reduction because I do want MPGs (wieght reduction in there too) since this will be my daily driven car....one day....hopefully, but I also want to reduce as much lift as possible for mental security mainly but more stability as speeds as well while racing. So far my plan is to have the Subtle Z kit modified a little and a belly pan. I've been thinking of a full belly pan in 3 pieces, front, rear, and middle. I figure if I can reduce the drag with the wingless and spoilerless application of vortex generators on the roof I can drive it around and if I encounter rear lift problems that are really noticable then I'll get one of those APR wings (I think the company's name is APR but not 100 on that). I've also been thinking of side skirt/rocker panel modifications for better aero too but trying to keep the car as pretty as possible too, close to original lines and everything. Some ideas but I need to draw them out to see if I like them enough or not. Sorry about the rant, but I've been thinking about this for a long time.

Surprisingly that doesn't help me as much as I thought it would, but this would. How much does the 302 wiegh with cast iron block, cast iron heads, aluminum intake and carb? How much with all the same but aluminum heads? How much with aluminum block and heads? I know I am a little finicky but I like details.

I've owned the book Race Car Aerodynamics for a while but never got too far into it because I always got lost in Chapter 2. But I'm about halfway done with it now after deciding I'll read through it and just do my best to get a general idea and not giving up after not understanding the small details. I just want to know if I got some of this right. Concave shapes create higher pressure while convex shapes create lower pressures. The longer something is the less drag it has. Laminar boundary layers have less surface drag but seperate easier while turbulant boundary layers have more surface drag but stay attached longer which in the back of the vehicle can cause less total drag. If you have the beginning of the wing taper towards the stagnation point it allows you to have more attack angle without detaching the airflow but works for cars because they are constant and not for planes because they're always adjusting lift. With the "V" shaped wings, if the ends go towards the front it creates more lift in the center therefore good for cars but planes have the ends go towards the rear because they make more lift at the ends and that makes it easier for a plane to turn since they use the airflow over the wings to manuever. End plates on the end of the wings pretty much just make it so air doesn't creep off the ends and around the wing. Vortex generators turns a laminar boundary layer into a turbulant one so it stays attached longer allowing you to create more attack angle on the wing. These are the things I want confirmation on whether I have it right or wrong, where I'm at the rest I either understand or I don't feel I need to worry about (such as the windtunnels because I'll never afford anything like). Ok, now everybody tell me how wrong I am, I can take the criticism.

I have a pretty general question here and didn't want to start a new thread, how much weight can be saved by twitching to an aluminum 302 block?

What headers did you use?

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=215490

I got my own questions on this. We all know the driveshaft is really short for the Z. I was wondering if this shorter driveshaft causes problems with the U-joints during the up and down movement? The way I see it, the shortness of the driveshaft makes it have to angle up or down more for the bump and rebound of the live axle. Is this why all the examples I see of a solid axle in a Z are all back-halved cars? Can it be fit in the back with keeping with the factory frame rails and floorboard, what kind of clearance problems are there?

I guess that was it, hard to tell. The second car that appears in this clip Funny though, I remember it be a bright purple, must have been the color settings on the TV

What are cp pistons? I've never heard of X-beam rods either. I-beam, H-beam, but never X-beam.

I liked the purple carbon fiber on the ricers that where on the interstate, I actually thought that looked cool.

What about a GT35 or a GT40, would those be good for such an engine?

I found this article on making a SR20DET head handle 9000 RPM http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=238409 but I couldn't find any articles on how to make the bottom end handle it. Could the stock bottome end handle the revs with stock-20psi? Since I'm here anyways I might as well ask because I've been trying to find an answer for this too, how many pounds of boost can you run on a properly tuned engine for 91 octane without the meth injection?

So what's proven to a better way to route IC piping? Using 2 different sizes for either side of the IC or using a single sized piping thats the medium between turbo outlet and TB?

Thats how I want to do it

That video was awesome, I wish I could drive like that

I have a pusher fan in my garage right now, I prefer pullers but I guess it's better than nothing. I actually forgot about that until now. It's actually a reversible direction, I originally got it for the Mustang but it didn't fit. It wont fit as a puller on the Z but the opening in the front is so big it would not be a problem at all to put it in as a pusher.

My car is in the shop, the mechanic said that I need a new clutch because the one on there is locked up. It just wiggles a little when you try to turn it when cold. Ok, I'm not gonna argue that it is locked up but he said since it's locked up it's only a matter of time before the clutch breaks and send the blades flying. I've never heard of that happening before, should I worry about that? Should I get a new clutch or just an electric fan? The only side effect I've heard of from a locked up fan clutch is that it cools more than neccessary.