AkumaNoZeta

I couldn't really care less about being a sleeper, I just want less piping...so far I'm sticking with the V mount...would having the AC condensor in front of the V mount cause the same harm as the radiator being in front of the IC idea?

Parrafin wax? Well...I was planning for adding air conditioning too, is there a way to use the refridgerant circulation to cool the charge?

I agree with TheNick, it wouldn't be worth it. I want to put the Mustang II type suspension on my car when I get to it because that, along with the new frame rails that my car desires, I will be able to cut out the inner fenders because they are no longer needed since there wouldn't be any struts.

What if you leave the radiator where it is but mount the intercooler behind it, closer to the engine and put an electric fan on the intercooler? Would this cool the air as much as if it were mounted right out front? This wouldn't have the intercooler in sight when looking at the front of the vehicle so it wouldn't be a dead give away that its modded, and would be less piping for better throttle response

If I do an intercooler it will be a V-mount. But I was hoping their was some new miracle thing out that could eliminate it, long shot but worth trying

But the water will warm up though, becoming a lot less effective

Well this is a street vehicle so I dont want to have to have something that would have to be drained and refilled all the time with ice water (air to water). That may eliminate the water/meth injection too, I haven't heard anything about how long the reservoir stays filled or anything.

I thought that was for running higher boost on pump gas, I guess it can be used to eliminate an intercooler too.

They're not designed to be taken apart

I wanna run a turbo 4-cylinder in my Z but the only part I don't like about that is the long intercooler piping unless you do a V-mount. I was wondering if there's any other options for cooling the air flow? I thought there may be something new out there or maybe someone has an idea that they think may work.

Trust me, if you don't get some cheaply made ones, you don't ned a clamp for them. My teacher passed around a peice from his super-modified to the class and no one was able to get the fitting out, they're on there for good. So if you're gonna use it on something you're gonna take apart, add extra to it because you're gonna have to cut the hose to get it off and you want that extra length of hose so you can slip it back on instead of buying a whole new hose.

I know it doesn't seem to make sense but after you think about it, it starts to be feasible. Iron is stronger than aluminum meaning their has to be extra aluminum in the block to make it as strong as it would be if it were iron. And the CA head is a lot smaller than the SR head if you compare them. Not to mention the CA can just be overall smaller too.

You're probably right about no one else chiming in, people prefer to buy things they can just bolt in instead of designing and fabricating their own custom systems

Right now I am trying to modify a set of BMW hubs from a 750 for a multi-link rear suspension set up (for Mustang, not Z. Thought may also be to interests of people working on their Zs). I was wondering if anyone can post some pics and info of the front hubs of a 4X4 Chevrolet S10 because I've heard these are good when designing a custom IRS.

Bringing back my dead thread (wow, that rhymed) I was looking for aftermarket gear ratios a while back for R200s just too see what my options were and I came across a sight that I think was selling 1:1 ratio gears, I didn't look at it long enough to actually see the pics or anything but the next day the thought of combining that with this AWD idea came up so I went looking for the site again but never found it. Just to bring that up, there MAY be 1:1 gear sets for R200s making this conversion easier to deal with

Its been a while since I've tried it again. I'm currently cutting up the BMW suspension I bought keeping certain parts (calipers, hubs, ect) and after I'm done with that I'll get back and practice on the tig. This has been a nice cool down period, I know that because I'm actually happy again instead of dissapointed in myself. lol

Good point. I wasn't thinking about that

Heres another weight thread on here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97320&highlight=complete+engine+weights On there is states the CA18DET with trans is 389 lbs and on here http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/Engine_Swaps is says the CA18DET is 282 lbs without transmission. Now on the first sight I linked is said the VG30DETT weighs 469 lbs without transmission and I dont see the E or ET version being 200lbs lighter

I want the MYT engine

Could the dual unlet port head be ported to take away the wall between the ports to make it one big port?

I just got a R200 now too. lol. I'm stocking up in car parts, I've never done that before. Back home I have a whole bunch of stuff I've taken off the Mustang and Z, including the old T-5 from the Stang. Now I have two IRS differentials, one with complete suspension

Oh, that was you wasnt it? lol. That was quite some time ago but was fun. Funny thing is that the teacher of my Chassis Fabrication class is doing the same thing with a Mitsubishi engine and transaxle for a rock crawler. To the Pulsar one, with that one the engine is still in front of the front axle. The FWD transaxle one has the engine behind the front axle.

Oh wow, I thought it would have been running by now. I just read the threads about it a couple days ago and I didn't look at the dates of the posts

I don't have any money right now and I want to have stats to compare the engines with because I cant decide. But Auxilary, you can tell me the details on how fun driving a rotary Z is, good and bad qualities.

In my opinion this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125246 needs to be continued and never finished.