7MGFORCE

My datsun 260z is finished and not really happy how everything turned out. I got too carried away with the dreaming and it ended up away from what I wanted lol so my turbo 302 is up for sale. Basically ended up w/ a drag set up that I grew out off lol Looking for my next project and im down to TWO options. Either another s30(my case id go 240z or 260z) or a fc3s rx7. Im really liking the white in my cars so this time im going for looks first then mod the engine.(usually the other way around for me lol) Looking for clean White S30 to compare to help me decide which I want to go with. I want to have an idea of what I can potentially make it look like. Found this RX7 that is clean IMO and If I go that route this will be my base plan. Nice clean and simple. Reminds me of my old mk3 supra lol as Far as S30 I found one that I like but im sure theres more out there. Im aiming for stock body w/ bumper/kit but NOT widebody or any major body mod. Wichever I go with will end up with a 4g63 engine or 4.8 LS so power plant concern isnt an issue. Each have their own advantages but this thread is focused more on deciding on which Id go with looks wise. thanks for any help

Ya it's pushed back as far as I could but when I switch to lower mount I could have pushed it 1 or 2 inch back but it would require me to rebuilds my turbo exhaust piping b/c of the limited space so I left it like that. What kind of chevy? And full iron or aluminum? I know my turbo kit adds about 100-150 lbs. I put a 15" and 10" sub where my spare tire use to go as well as an amp on the back but I glast it so not much weight added. I will also relocate the battery on the back but that empty space where the batt is now will be taken up by methanol injection container. I would get aluminum heads but I ran out of funds after my diy turbo kit. Where do you guys go to get the weight? I know a weighing station but that's all the weight not divided.

well this car was intentionally build for straight line performance. I mean i even fitted 325/50r15 tires on the back. so handling was really not in the plans. anyways times changing and so is my minds. I want the car to handle... but i dont want to loose my turbo v8 power. I havent taken it to a weight station but im pretty positive its front heavy. suspension wise it has tokico springs and shock and poly bushing all around. front end is fully done including new tie rods. the rear is next. now obviously the 325 wont be on the car when it set up for handling but im thinking in the lines of 275 front and 315 back. what do you guys think? what else can i do to make it handle good? nothing crazy just enough to be fun at the twisty/backroad

I will check this out tomorow when I get a chance to work on in and report back. Thanks

Yes so basically from the right (defroster) side the first two click turns of the fan. After that the mix of hot n cold is half power. Does our heater require a vacuum from the engine bay? Because I have no vacuum that leads inside. Also the vacuum lines are located behind the climate control? Thanks

On the top selector yes. The one with like 5 different selection. The one with two(hot or cold) it doesn't affect the fan.

I'm talking about the top selector on the temp control. When it's on the cold side the fan blows but once I switch to hot side the fan does not blow any air at all. The hot or cold control on bottom left does not affect anything. I don't have a/c. I just want to get it to blow iether hot or cold air when put on hot(on top selector)

So I got my car running with a carb v8 so most engine wiring are gone. I tried using my heater today but when I put it on heat the thing does not even blow any air. If I put the temp on cold it blows cold air. Is there a switch to activate the hot air fan? I just flushed the heater core and it's not clog. I got this shell as a non working so I don't know if it had work before the swap. Any ideas on what wiring of switch to check?

Noone knows where i can buy clutches to add to a lsd r200? Sticky280zx im still waiting where I can get additional clutches for $50.

because the whole swap including the (rust free) shell purchased cost me 2800 Mustang 5.0 plus big giant turbo is great for cheap and powerful car. That and the skill to weld things up (hint why I was asking about welding-it would be free for me lol) but will look into the clsd more. thanks

I looked at that BUT First question. -Where do you get the clutches? I had considered that option but found out that the clutches was a group buy that was over. so where so i get a hold of those clutches? ^^ The main reason I didn't look into it further b/c from the sticky it holds up to about 400trq. Since the group buy was over for the clutches, adding clutches was not possible. But since you seem to know where I can get them post a link please thanks. And again the reason I "throw it aside" is because I was not aware that there are clutches made now.

Thanks guys. I thought that a 315 wide tires would solve that problem. Lesson learned. I guess I will try the weld and see how it goes. if I don't like it I will just have to reach deep in my pocket to install r230. Btw I already have 300zx cv installed with my longnose r200. Thanks

Actually I was just asking if loosing traction could be minimize with 315 vs 225 tire. That's all. LSD is the way to go that I know but cost is another thing.

The thing is the diff itself is cheap but the parts cost to install it is expensive. I'm not worked about tire wear I just want to know if it would have issues on turns even with 315 wide tires. And how much are those rated for I thought it was less than 500 ft torque? I figured r200 that are welded would be a lot stronger assuming the welds holds up.

I need a stronger diff for my v8 560wtrq so I'm thinking of welding my r200 for the posi traction and the strengtt. I'm concerned about taking corners as it's mostly street driven with ocational backroad drag. But with 315 back tires do you think I'll have thesame problem with re back end always breaking loose?

Cool thanks. I'll see what orchard supply got.

okay so I think it was clifton who thought of this. so i have welded two "tabs" or "ear" on my differential mount and a bolt that go across both.(basically stops/limits the lift of the front side of the diff under acceleration.) well I put a heater hose on the bolt to lower the noise and well 1000 miles later the heater hose was cut in the middle.(street driving with few quick take off) so now i need a new hose or some sort of rubber that wont get cut when the diff. any ideas on what to put between the bolt and the diff mount? this is on a 290wtrq 302 ford.

curious do you think the whole C4 IRS swap will hold? http://www.scottiegnz.com/corvette_irs_swap.html anyways on the side note i think your question has been kinda solve from the supraforums. I also think that maybe you should lower the pressure on launch 30 psi is alot to launch from. as already suggested as well lower your boost off the line and simply add more after launch. seeing that your not getting faster and just braking parts i think its time to rethink your launching plan

Ya I have similar adapter. But I want to take them out since my power is about to hit 480whp on a turbo v8. I want to keep my 17x10.5 rims with 315 tires. The papers than came with the spacer said not recomended for vehicle with over 400hp that's used in drag racing. Which in my case it will be over 400hp and used in backroad drag racing with street/drag radial tires(no slick)

I have a 74 early 260z that I want to convert to 5 lug(front) brakes. But at the same time add a 1" spacer. Any convertion available iether diy or kit that add 1". I want to avoid using spacer. And for the back is there a way to add 2" ? Any thick disk brake conversion out there?

I got a pair of koni adjustable for my 240z for free but Its only for the rear. I want to but the eibach with kyb that's selling locally. Can I mix n match the shocks? Orwill I be better of using just kyb?

This is good news. Thank you admins

LOL ya I figured it is I guess I'll wait around for updates

Well more votes now LOL. Anychance we can allow just the members section to edit? Or no chance at all braap?

Okay so I removed the front bumper of my 240z and have a huge intercooler up front. Now I can't figure out how to cover the bumper side. I don't want the bumper up front I like the look without it but the side where the turn signal goes looks dumb because the bumper used to go there. Any ideas on how to cover it? I want something that screw on nothing that would involve permanent change(in case I get a fix it ticket or something)