7MGFORCE

Yes I use the number one spark plug test thing. And I even tried it 180 degrees and the same thing. I tried starting at base of 0 and 10 degree using a timing light. I really thing it is bc of the really weak spark as states on my post. But what would make it act so that only one of 8 spark is a good spark?

Yes I use the number one spark plug test thing. And I even tried it 180 degrees and the same thing. I tried starting at base of 0 and 10 degree using a timing light. I really thing it is bc of the really weak spark as states on my post. But what would make it act so that only one of 8 spark is a good spark?

Okay so again it's a early 74 260z with mustang 5.0 motor from a 90 with t5. It cranks but won't start. It would "pop" once in a while but no go. 1. New battery, new 85 carb dizzy, new pugs. 2. There's fuel as I can see it come out when I open the trottle. 3. There's spark. Sort off. When I use a check light it would read the spark but it seems like 7 weak spark and 1 good spark. When I use the screw driver check using the main wire of could only one spark would jump then a long pause and then 1 more when there should be an almost contious spark. What could be causing this? I used a gm module so on the ballast resistor I used the wire that has possitive when key is on and connected it to the + coil. This bypassing the ballast.

Another question is the stock pump dependent on oil pressure? I mean if the oil pressure is not connected will the pumpwork?

Yes I do have duraspark dizzy. The car now have spark and I made sure The grounds are solid and I ground the engine and chassis. My question is, is it normal to have a weak spark when the engine is just cranking? I have to sort out my pump wiring before she start unfortunately so I can't see how the spark is when running

I got the car as a shell and the previous owner said it ran before he tore it down a year b4 I purchase it. Which is the relay? I'm having trouble finding the pump relay. And I'm trying to avoid the switch idea for safety reasons. If something happen knock on wood the last thing I need is the pump to be pumping when I can't turn off the switch. Is there any live wire that only comes on when cranking and stay on only when the engines on?

First off 1. Which is the stock feed line on a 260z tank? The top or bottom? I made a mistake of removing feed and return without labeling them. 2. Will the stock feed line be able to pump 110gph? If now how much? 3. For those who used the drain as their feed line what fitting did you guys used? The 3/8 fitting is to big of a tread siZe to fit. This is for an early 74 260z with a mallory pump for a stock sbf Thanks

There's only two but as I states before you posted I have it wires up already. None of the two putsout possitive when cranking the engine. I know for sure ones negative as I tested it with a live wire the other holds niether ground or power.

The ballast resistor is the white looking rectangle next to the coil with 3 wires right? Well I connected the 3 wires and tried again. The possitive on coil drops to 8.x during crank prolly bc of starter drain. Still no spark though. Btw is the negative/tach on coil suppose to have 12v ? Mine has a possitive output. Edit after regrounding everything I was able to get spark. But it's very very weak spark. I could barely see it. I used the main spark plug that connects to the coil as my tester using ascrew driver. Btw how many spark per second am I suppose to see? Bc when it was being crank I could only see 1 every few second I would thing it would be more per second when cranking bc it's a v8

Yes I have tried this buy what else need a possitive when cranking besides the pump. And the one that connects to the stock pump does not hold possitive current.

Yeah but I did had a different type of crossmember. Mines a 1 piece. I used Patriot tight tuck headers off summit I got for 156. Cheapest I could find and it did not have any clearance issues. But I did how ever hammered the firewall a bit and cut the ears on the tranny hole bc iwanted the engine as far back as It could fit. Worked out great and fits great and the best part is it cleared the steering rod so I did not have to modify the headers or the rod.

Looks like it uses the 65-72 motor mounts. I used a 68 mustang mounts on mine that I got on eBay looks just like the one in your picture.

I have a ford 5.0 motor 1990 with carb setup. It does not have a mechanical pump so I just have an electric. Do I need to wire it a certain way so the pump comes on soonerr? How do I wire this up?

Which one is the ballast resistor? And how do I by pass it?

hi so i decided to follow this site for my ignition system. http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm i basically used the stock wires that went to the stock coil. so i used the possitive output and the negative/tach output. when i crank the car i didnt get any spark what so ever. im curious why it does not work. i have tripple check everything and all connections are good but again no spark. any sugestions? side questions the dizzy has a vacuum nipple where do i connect it? FYI: this is on an early 74 260z. with a 1990 mustang 5.0 that is carb.

Oh so the pump doesn't pump until the car runs basically? Where is that relay? How do I check if the relay is good? And I change the fuel line so no fuel is on the lines or carb how do I get the fuel pump to pump and fill the lines with gas if the pump will not pump until it hits 500rpm.

I have an early 74 260z with a v8 convertion but I figure this related more here than the v8 forums. I got the car as a shell so I'm unsure what the problem could be. I have replace the stock pump with mallory pump but I wired it to the stock pump wires. Now when I check it I had someone crank the car but the possitive doesn't carry any charge so the fuel pump doesn't pump. The ground works. What could be wrong with? I check the fuse but none of them are for the pump. Side question which is the stock feed line on the stock tank? The top or the bottom?

Yes I do I understand that but what wire did you use from the original harness so the chassis has a + charge? Can I just connect the orignal + wire that used to go to alterternator and connect it to where the alternator connects to the switch.

okay so the battery alt and starter connect to this switch and the key switch to "I". And I plan on grounding the engine directly with the firewall so hopefully I don't have ground issues. But still didn't answer my original question. How will the rest of the chassis get a possitive lead when it seems like the possitive is only connected to bat alt and starter? Do I have to connect something else or am I not understanding how things work?

Solenoid switch? Where do I get those? I

Okay so here's the stuff I need help with. 1. With 1 wire alternator with the only connection for possitive being alternator battery and starter how does the chassis wiring get possitive charge? 2. The stock wires for the dizzy only have two wires the 5.0 motor has 3 wires. What do I do here? 3. How did you guys do the coil set up?

I looked on that site I could now find the fuel diagram

I have a early 260z that I got parts apart so I'm trying to figure out two things. 1. If I'm looking at the tank where the feed and return line is coming out which one is the feed line? 2. The pump is off when I got it and I want to install a mallory pump for my covertion but the mallory has red and black thewires on the chassis however is both black. Is one possitive or both negative. Convertion is for a carb sbf btw.

Will the stock feed hole be too restrictive? Since it's carb I was thinking it won't have fuel starvation issues. Any ideas on how else I can get a feed line out of the stock gas line?

I was originally going to use the drain plug as the feed but I can't figure out how I'm going to do that since the drain plug uses only 1/2 size bolt. So my next question is will the stock feed be enough? For a 300whp carb 302? Btw which is the fuel feed on the tank? I took it down a while back and forgot. This will go on a early 260z with 1/2 aluminum lines