7MGFORCE

Hi I'm building a small block ford swap and doing the fuel lines. I'm going to run 1/2" aluminum lines for carb application but now I'm stuck. My car is a 260z 1974 early gen and I will be using stock tank but I wanted to use the drain plug as the source of feed line since stock one isonly 5/16. So I figured out that the plug thread is 1/2-20 but what does that equates in NPT? Open to sudgestion on how else I can get a feed line without welding or anything like that. Thanks

Okay so my swap is almost done but I still need to do the driveshaft I'm going for cheap so I figure a stock 5.0 mustang driveshaft and A jtr adapter to match the longnose r200. So how do I mate those to parts? I search but confused on what is a spicer 1310 and neapco?

i remember reading something about the bolt grade that was recomended for the crosmember but i can find it now. im using grade 5 bolt for engine crosmember is this okay? and what grade do you guys use to mount the jtr tranny mount to the shell? will grade 8 be enough?

i was looking at 260z wiring at http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/74_260Z_wiring.pdf and was curious wich ones from this list can i eliminate? this car will be strickly carb and will not be turn to efi at all. part 1. A. transistor igniter B. inhibitor switch E. fusible link box H. kickdown solenoid part 2. A. EGR solenoid B. throttle opener solenoid D. thermal transmitter H. egr relay part 3. what is 5. shunt?? 9. stopper motor? and will i need to upgrade voltage regulator since i plan to run a 130amp alternator? and with the 1 wire alternator i saw one on ebay thats 130 amp will i need to "upgrade" any wiring. i know the one wire connects directly to the battery so im unsure if i need to "beef" up wires. oh and one more thing if i were to connect the oil pressure and water temp and use the stock gauge are they pretty acurate?

it will be carb set up since im really bad at wiring so i like to keep it simple. my question is how much of the stock "early" 260z engine wiring do i need to connect the motor? i look at the z8 convertion but it didnt go into detail on how the wiring was done. and if i were to install a 130amp alt what else do i need to do?

contact 73BOTIZ from here. im planing on picking up one from him tomorow or this weekend.

im looking at headers now, im curious if anyone found a longtubes that fit a 240z. if so wich one? and if not wich would you guys recomend for peformance hooker block huggers or summit racing?

okay heres my situation. Ill be running a 302 v8 with dual exhuast 2.4" then meets to an x pipe and then at that end i plan to run dual cutout(basically open exhaust.) before it merge into 1 single 3" or 2.5" pipe. so it exit at the back through a single 3" or 2.5". at the end i want a muffler or resonator that would basically make my exhaust as quiete as possible so early in the morning when i need to warm up the car it doesnt wake up my nieghbors. it will mostly run with open exhaust.

oh okay that must be it. the intake is sqaure but the carb is spread. 2 trottle thing is bigger than the other two. would this explain why 1 bolt wont bolt up?

question is the bolt pattern on square bore carb different from spread bore carb?

ya i though that too but i wanted to buy a spacer mainly to see which one has the flaw. if its the carb i would i would just drill the whole to fit. but if its the intake i would rather buy another intake. and a spacer would determine which is off. so you know if the mesurement between bolt holes are all the same?

they are bolts. but even if i just align them they do not match. 1 hole is off by 2-3mm. i guess i will buy a spacer and see wich one is off.

well i bought the carb for 80 shipped and the intake for 100 shipped since they were used and working condition i didn't think i would run into any problems. if i drill out the corner would that mess it its design of flow? maybe drill out little bit on each side?

i will take a pic of it when i get home and try to post it. the problem is that i baught it as a used product. so i wouldnt be able to claim it as defective since im not the original buyer.

okay heres the situation i have a ford mustang 5.0 302 engine. 1990. i want to go carb so i bought a edelbrock performer rpm with edelbrock 600cfm carb i believe its 1405 anyways so when it and did a trial fit it doesnt match. 3 out of 4 bolts would fit but the last bolt is off. i assume that since i baught edelbrock parts that it would match i guess i was wrong. do i need a spacer? how do i get it to work?

is that just on the 280z? b/c from what ive read the 240z comes with 5/16 feed/return but i have an early 260z 74. so i guess i have 5/16 lines. would 5/16 even handle over 300whp?

i thought the stock feed lines where 5/16? what size is the return?smaller isnt it?

ill be using my edelbrock 600 cfm. and no return but i plan to run a return style mallory regulator and i figure that much. but since i will be running carb set up with a fuel pump that push 7psi max i am unsure if the stock lines can support it. if it cant then i guess ill convert everything to 1/2 now. but if i can skip it now it then cool i would rather upgrade it later when i need to and spend the extra cash for the more needed item.

wait i was reading about your post and the site and saw that you said your running about 325 real hp. and i was looking at your post on where you upgraded the fuel lines but i didnt see it. did you use the stock lines? how much hp is the stock lines rated for? i have read that you need bigger lines for carbed engine? i plan on running mallory 110gph pump and was wondering if i could use the stock fuel lines for feed and return. i plan to run around 300-350 whp/wtq

thanks but i end up just buying a 6 rib pulley for the tensioner and reversing the spring. hopefully it works. but i wont be able to find out till i get her running lol. and check your pm

how much you want for your 6 groove water pump pulley? lol jk seriously though i cant seem to find those 6 groove pulley anywhere.

okay thanks another question, as i was looking for a way to put tension on the belt i found alot of people using a tie rod. but i cant seem to find where people buy this stuff. heres a pic of what im talking about. not a 302 but the tension rod bolt thing is thesame. where do i get one? i have looked on ebay, online all i find is iether house tie rod or like car tie rods.

curious i saw that the old 302 have clockwise rotating water pump. could i use the old waterpump and put it in the the new 87-93 302? would it work? i figure since i need to buy a new water pump anyways if this would convert it then ill just buy the old style. also would drilling a hole in the stock valve and putting a breather work?

is it really needed to swap the valve cover when converting carb? and i have read that link before does the 302 have to have that that type to control the best tension? i was thinking of making a custom one that control the tension and so it will be up to me on how much tension is put in, would that be a problem?

okay so i was reading some more on the efi to carb swap. i have a 302 from 92 mustang gt. i have read that i need to get a valve cover that has vent on both side. but other convertion doesnt mention this. i mean stock valve cover has one vent isnt that enough? and what do you guys think about that pcv vent into a catch can then from catch can to the air? b/c im concern that maybe it might vent things into the engine and maybe even clog the fiter and cause blow by. with the catch can it will catch all the stuff that comes out. and btw anyone know how to convert the water pump so it could spin clockwise? i will only have the alternator, crank and water pump but with the 302 ho the water pump spins counter clockwise.