7MGFORCE

served no purpose LOL I just put that there so people would look. And it worked people actually clicked LOL. And as I states it's just a rant LOL. While I wish the rules would change, I doubt that it would seing the reason it was put into place is to prevent from knowledge from being deleted. Anyways I'm kind of curious how many people care enough or atleast bothered enough about not being able to change their own post

Okay so I have a chance to upgrade my rear wheels to 17x10.5 with 6.63 backspacing. With the 2" spacer I would have 4.63 back spacing. I have search and people recomend 4.5" back space. But would .13" not make it on regular suspention?(I just got these new so I don't want to spend money again to change to coil over.) The tires will be 335/35 Or do I need coilovers? Ps: this car is just a 1-2 day a week cruise car so please spare me with the whole spacer thing.

Come on guys 132 view and only 13 votes. LOL it's kind of like the percentage of people that vote in America LOL

puts flame suit on well just ranting really. I want to start my own build thread but the whole thing being unable to edit MY OWN build thread is a drag. Yes I did search about this topic lol and I do understand that but granted that its our "own build thread" we should be able to edit our own post.(please dont ban me lol) My sudgestion: maybe allowing just the "members project" area to be edited by the thread starter? or how about maybe the contributing($$) members be allowed to edit their post lol no fair but what ever would help to get the ball

Okay cool I'll stick with 2 per side. And I don't carry the key. I leave them with my spare tire at home. I only use this to commute to work and school wich is both less than 15 miles. Any thing further and I use the more reliable(stock) wrangler LOL

Ops repost

That's what I was thinking at first but I wasn't sure if I would run into trouble with using all lock instead of lug nuts. I was asking if it's okay to ride on just lock. And how often do you change tires? Not a whole lot for me so it's not a headache. Infact the only time I do is when I get new pads or when I retorqe the lugs. And four set would stop the "average" thief. As I said I know if they want it badly enough they will take it. So I figure atleast I will try to make it as hard or time consuming as possible.

Well I just ordered a $800 rims and I was thinking of installing more than 1 wheel lock per wheel. Since it's four lug I was thinking using 2 wheel lock(mcgard) on each wheel and the possitioning would be opposite of each other. They recomend only using 1 per wheel but this car will not be doing any drift or track. The most it will see if acouple of backroad drag racing on some meaty tires (275) 555r tires. What do you guys think? Can I use more like 2 per side? Or can I even use lock on all four per side? I know it won't stop thieves but atleast maybe they will rethink it and move to something easier? I have used aluminum lugs before on my old supra with kumho ecsta tires that are 275. And did not have any issues so I figured these mcgard locks are better quality and stronger than those cheap eBay aluminum lugs. What's you guys's take on this?

How much they charge? On average? And any welding shop?

I already considered adapter but the rim is already too negative offset andstick out as it is. And the wheels are like centerline rims so it basically solid/no spoke.

So I bought some wheels of craigslist and the guy said he had it on a 510 he said they are 4x114 and was an ae86 rims. So I look it all up and sure enough all 4x114.3 So I bought the two rims. Now trying to put it on it wouldn't fit using a shank type lugnuts(which is whats needes)after measuring it seems that it's 4x100 originally but the guy looks like he grinded it a bit so you can fit 114 but the lugnuts won't. Anyways he won't answer my calls and we meet at target so I don't know where he lives. I payed average price and since there's only two I think it would be hard to resell. Anyways can I grind the bolt hole a bit to fit a shank type lug nuts?

Yes I came across that kit before. By it doesn't have the ball joint and such. I basically want to replace ALL gushing to freshen up the car. Anybody knows what the list are to freshen up everything? And how do you know the size of the sway bar?

First things first. I have an early 260z so any bushing I need are from 240z right? Based on my search I found out that these are the poly bushing I need. Control arm bushing Bump stop Rack and pinion bushing Steering bushing Front end link bushing Swap bar bushing. And for mustache bar bushing (I have r200) do I get the 280z vertion? And if there anything else I missed? I basically want to refresh all bushing with poly.

Not my intent but I want to keep driving the car then upgrade the whole rear end later when I get enough cash

At first I got excited untill I got to the price LOL. At 900 for a kit I think I would go and try to install a short nose. Question if I swap a stock r180 will that be the week link? A spider gear failure seems more contained than halfshaft failure.

Yes but I can't afford the mount for a short nose right now. And welded diff acts like lsd. With the exception that it's always locked. What do you guys sudgest? My aim is only 300whp/wtrq With the welded r180 the next weak link is halfshaft and stub axle. The stock halfshaft should handle launches with street tires right? Is there a way to upgrade to cv using r180?

I just purchase a 350 v8 in a 73 240z. Carb. The last owner welded the r180 I'm curious if a half shat where to break I would still be able to steer the car normally right? The reason I'm asking is because I would rather beef up the stub axle with 280z and leave the half shaft as a weak link than break a stub axle. My other question is with modern motorsports stub axle what is the strongest halfshaft I can use with stock r180? I read the long sticky but the cv only works for the r200.

anybody know where i can find the 5-pin relay rated 70-80 amps? the only one i found are for like $30 each. i looked on ebay, google and radio shaq. any ideas? can i use a 14v relay aswell? btw can i use a 60/80 amp? i found this on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/60-80-AMP-RELAY-SPDT-SINGLE-POLE-DOUBLE-THROW-NEW-654_W0QQitemZ110373059322QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b2bf3afa&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14[/url]

Is there a way to fix the thread where the discharge nozzle bolt up to if it's been strip?

I don't have any history on the motor. Is 150k miles and last owner said it ran rough due to dizzy. He got another motor so I baught it cheap. I bolted it and revs fine so I thought it's still good. What could be wrong with the motor that could cause vacuum leak?

I thought a bad pv could be a cause of vacuum leak. Could a leaky throttle shaft cause a bad vacuum? I'm assuming it's not the intake bc I just put a new intake gasket with a sealer.

Yes I got the stock one with 6 and 5. Okay so I was setting the idle screw and decided to test my power valve bc my vacuum gauge would show the vacuum jumping from 13 to 17. Just really eratic back and forth. I read a way to test a pv is if you Lightly bottom out both idle screws on both side of the metering block it would kill the motor if it's working. Well it didn't. And also read that a broken pv can cause big vacuum leak wich I think I did. At that moment I noticed that on the secondary shaft there is gas. It's only a little no dripping. I thought it was the gasket between body and plate so I got the fast kit. I followed a rebuild instruction on a ford forums. And went great until I tried to put back the shooter bolt with the new gasket. Perhaps the old owner strip it? Bc I did not feel it tighten or anything. Made me wonder how it was on there from the biggening. And more reading after I learned that the shaft could leak aswheel. But my shaft has zero play.

Well I got the non ajustable float. It didn't leak before but I noticed some fuel after both butterfly are soaked with gas. And I believe it's secondary. I guess it would be the discharge it's basically the one that spray when you go wot. Would it be fine without the two gasket? I know it's there for a reason but it won't bolt with it on.

Okay so I purchased a used holley 4160 and after testing it I diagnose a bad pv. So I baught a fast kit and began rebuilding it. I originally thought that the base to body gasket was leaking gas but as I found out the throttle shaft leaks a little. It would seep out slowly when I was tuning it.(too much gas) I take it that this needs a new shaft and no other way of repairs? The other is the shooter. I swap the gasket for the new one and now it won't tighten. If I don't put the two very thin gasket it can be tighten. Do they maybe make longer bolts?

Oh okay so it's not just from the headers flange but from the exhaust valve itself. Thanks a lot