7MGFORCE

Sorry I'm alittle confused. When you say from the back did you mean the distance when measured the exhaust only in horizontal? Or is the header lenght included in that measurement? What I mean is let say our aim is 30" and the headers measure 12" from head to headers flange, that will leave us with 18" right? And that 18" including the merge/y pipe correct? Basically the measurement ends when the y turns 3"? Did I understand you correcly? Thanks

Johnc you mention properly designed and it seems that the more I look into it distance from headers does come up. But I can't find the specific distance from the header flange on the head before a y is inroduced. Any pointers? And is the perfomance difference minimal from optimum to off by a foot or so?

Unfortunately I don't have niether in mycar so I'm trying to decide wich one I should go with I'm currently looking at magma flow or flowmaster y merge pipe. Which is better design?

Sbc 302 For 300whp will I loose power allover the powerband? I'm planning on running 2.5" the a ypipe that exit to 3". I would do dual but I have stock tank. Anyways any ideas?

Okay connected it like stated above but why does it keeps blowing the 20amp fuse on the stock fuse box? When im using the holley switch it blows it almost instantly. However using the same feed 12v ign but wired directly to fuel pump it runs on 10amp fuse perfectly and not blow it. I'm using 10gauge wire When I wired it btw. Any ideas on why it would blow it?

I need one my stock datsun cable mated with an r154 tranny speedo cable but I can't find a shop that does.

took apart the interior in the back and tried to save as many clips on the pannel but I broke quite a few. Any ideas on where I can buy new one? They are the clips that holds the pannel on the hatch area Thanks

I was mainly asking about the nc and since I baypass my resistor would that work?

Installing a t5 an down to two things. Speedometer hook up confirmation. Based on what I read through search and emails I can buy jtr speedo (dat 111) and I will be able to keep my stock speedo. My car needs 20t gears and I found one on eBay with clips. Are those the only thing I need to hook up? Or do I need something else? The other is reverse lights. While it's not a must it sure would be nice. If I'm correct the reverse light switch on the t5 is the black thing with two prong sticking out on the driver side of the t5 correct around the middle area. Now the 260z has four wires. Anybody know why is has 4 wirescoming out of the engine harness and wich is for reverse light? Thanks

Your switch must be different as it should not have a ground connection. Is the relay needed this is the first time I have heard this. Even the instruction does not state adding a relay. I know it's just a switch but I want to know for the constant key on 12v does it matter if it's comming of + coil or not

Hi I'm wiring a holley oil pressure switch to turn my fuel pump on / off as a safety measure. The switch has 3 connection 1. To starter litle wire 2. Fuel pump 3. ???? I have read that I connect it to a 12v key on switch and NOT to connect it to possitive coil. BUT holley instruction said to connect it to possitive coil. Which connection is better? I was going to connect it to one harness that I found near the radio that has 12 v key on. (the plug does not connect to anything)

Okay thanks a lot I knew I should have got the bolts before I got my ds made but I guess I'll take the ds with me LOL

Okay I will go to ace hardware and see if I can find gem. Btw when you say socket bolt your talking about the one with the Allen wrench key on the top? Or just regular bolt? Also m10 or m8?

I'm installing ford v8 on my car so I'm using the jtr ds adapter. The car is early 74 260z but unfortunately I lost the stock bolts. Can I just go to home depot and get grade 8 bolts, washer and lock nut? And what size should I get?

Kool I was not aware that they make a drop base Thanks

Hi I'm using a 9"x 2 air cleaner but it hits the hood. I have trim the bottom of the cleaner base a little to lower it but it still hits. The hood does close if I put a little "push" but I'm afraid when I run the engine it will rub enough to destroy something. Any ideas? I don't wanna have to add a cowl just to clear 1/2"

I have an early 260z with a carb ford 302 in. I have remove a lot of the wires from the original harness that is not being used. I also have a 100amp 1 wire alternator with my set up and I would like to upgrade the stock fusible link to a fuse block. Mine has black and green links but since it's a one wire and my starter is wired. Different the shunt is removed along with the black color links. That leaves me with the green links and from what I understand I can replace with a 20amp fuse. My question is besides that there's another white with red wire that goes inside that cabbin that same wire connects to the possitive side of my batt but has no fuse? Or is it fused inside? I would like to put that line in the fuse box and was curious which amp rating fuse should I use? How big in rating is it?

It's all black wires with different stripe color. 1. Blue stripe 2. White stripe 3. Green stripe I will take pics tommorow. It's an early 74 260z

Yes but the diagram shows two wires going to resistor on mine I have 3. Wich on do I jump/bypass

So if I run the 12v directly from battery to + coil lead I won't have to use the wire that used to connect to + coil and resistor right?

I only mess with the wire going to coil, and I'm using hei module. I have 4 wire 1. Green -I'm guesing tach signal 2. Black with white stripe 3. Black with blue stripe 4. Black with green stripe Out of the bottom 3 I know number "1" has 12v when key is on. But wich do I use to connect to possitive coil lead and which do I use to connect to hei module on letter "B"?

Okay I finally got it running I found another post on Zhome that use hei. But the car does not stay on. The car would turn on but it dies. The only way it would stay running is if I keep the key on "start" I think ionly have spark during crank. How do I get spark after crank?

Yeah I did that but the problem is I don't have coil spark after I crank her up. Btw does the 260z need to have the oil pressure to be connected to run? And can I directly run a wire from bAttery to + coil just to see if that's trully my problem or will I damage my coil? The coil is off a mustang so it's tfi coil. And can I use a oil pressure switch and hook up 12v to use and connect that to the + coil? Thanks

Yes I have the ballast resistor removed. I have read that article it's basically the same as the zhome except the zhome goes into connecting a coils. Okay so maybe it's in the wires to coil. What I have is 4 wires. 1 green 2 black w/ blue stripe 3 black with green strip and 4 black with white stripe. Wich one goes where? Following the instruction "C" goes to the negative coil so the green wire is left disconnected?

hi i have an early 1974 260z with a 5.0 mustang motor that is carb. i used this two site to wire up my ignition system. http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html after following the carbdford the engine does not run at all and after searching i found the zhome page. my distributor is hook up folowing the carbdford site as it is a mustang motor but the coil is hook up following the zhome page. number 15 is what i cant figure out since color code is different. "Make a Y-jumper from a piece of wire. It should have two male terminals and one female. Connect the female terminal to termial B on the module. Connect one of the male terminals to the long black/white wire and the other to the green/white wire." i made that "Y" and connected it. the + on the coil has to be connected to iether the black with white stripe wire or the black with blue stripe wire or else the engine wont turn on. now the problem. the car runs.... BUT only when i keep the key on the "crank" once i stop cranking the engine dies(i keep it on crank for about 4 second only since i didnt want my starter to get mess up.). it seem that i have ignition only when its cranking after that it doesnt. what do i need to wire? to keep the engine running after cranking?