Scottie-GNZ

Curtis, give some more details on your setup. Unless you are running a turbo with high boost or an NA with high compression, there are many things you can and should tune before you need something like water injection. Some of the things that come to mind are: timing, fuel mixture/volume/quality, coolant temp, spark plug heat range, too much boost for the octane level, inneficient or lack of an I/C. Even if you end up do needing water or alcohol injection, you should still check and correct the list first.

Jim, I had the same problem and after popping it out of the hole with that 1.55 launch I decided to fix once and for all. I used duct tape. I put tape on, trial fit and kept adding tape until I really had to force it in, harumph . Now it is wedged in there good and I cannot even rotate it, so if you want your redline at a certain position, decide that before you start.

SleeperZ, both James and I were planning to do A-W I/Cs but the cores ended up being A-A cores that each did not flow enough for a single A-W, but combined made a great A-A. James decided to make a single A-A for himself and I took his current I/C that you see installed. James, it looks crooked in the pic but it is straight. Had to trim down the elbow because it made the finsihed unit too wide and the pipe going down to it would have hit the hood bracket. Will probably do the initial testing this weekend.

The best SDS tuning tools: - read the SDS tech site 10 times - patience - understanding the priciples of turbocharging and EFI - patience - understanding the inter-relationships of the various maps - an A/F meter or better yet, an EGT - patience.

Thanks to 240Z Turbo. Tires are next, then a new assault begins.

You need a lower ratio with that high revving engine.

Lone - I am running 15x8 Weld Draglites. BLKMGK - I am weighing my options. Unless the T-Bird/Cobra is available with 3.27 of taller, it would probably not be a choice. I do not want to have the expense of the swap then also have to get CVs and gears. Might as well stay with the Nissan IRS and get axles. That is what makes the 8.8 solid or the Corvette a better option for me. I am just itching to put some slicks on this car.

Max MAF is 255 and TPS is fine. Anything 4.40+ is good with the key being that the throttle is really fully open.

116? He must have gotten out of it. Should more like 130+. Anyone know any details about this car?

My datalogger can display in 3 modes, Text, Dial and Scope. In the past I have shown the the scope mode only because that was the only one I could figure out how to get a Print Screen from. I finally figured out how to get the dial mode and thought you folks might find it interesting. I froze it at 100mph. Ignore the HP/Torque dials as they are grossly inaccurate. I think most of you could figure it takes a tad more than 259hp to hit 100mph in a little over 7-secs . The mixture also always seems to read LEAN. At this point I am in the middle of 3rd and there is no retard but notice that KNOCK Cnt: 6. That number is incremented every time the ECU is signalled there is knock. Another interesting dial is the Inj PW. The solid indicator is the current PW demand and the dotted is what is estimated to be 100% duty cycle. With 110+ octane and a computer capable of dynamically retarding timing, the Buick crowd runs their injs way pass what everyone considers normal. As you can tell, I am bored.

I agree with Lone. If you are considering a Corvette or T-Bird, why not use the entire subframe as designed. The factory spent $Ms engineering those designs, why cut it up and try to graft it to the Nissan parts? I asked this before and got no answer, so let me pose it a different way. Lets say the Z IRS is 57" hub-hub and I have an 8" wheel with 4.5" BS and everything fits just fine. MOF, I could go 5" or even 5.5" BS. Now I decided to do a Corvette or T-Bird IRS and lets say their IRS is 60". Without oversimplifying things, it seems the way to go would be to remove the Z rear-end completely, fab mount points and install the entire subframe. Now you are 3" wider than stock, so should'nt a pair rims with a 6" BS give a final fit exactly as I started with? Am I missing something? By coincidence, the Cobra R rims have a 5.9" BS and I will bet many of the new factory rims, and there are some nice ones, are probably close. The bottom line is, if the Z rear is 57", many of the options we have, Ford solid, Ford IRS, Corvette, etc are within a few inches, then instead of narrowing or modifying them in any way, just find a rim with the correct BS. Somebody please tell me I am missing something. [ May 19, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

Mike, nothing wrong with SHOW if you got the GO.

Not planning on attending this year. I have only one major trip for a racing event this year and that will be Petit LeMans at Road Atlanta where I go up and spend the entire week. I believe there is another Buick event at around the same time and if so I might try to squeeze that in. I am already planning for next year though and who knows, by then I might break into the piggy bank and do some engine mods and see if I can get this puppy down to a 10.0 or better. That would be awesome and I would drive it up too. Well, still a dream but only about $2K away . Let us know what kind of progress you are making and feel free to contact me personally if you want to chat about the swap details.

If you sense any wheelhop at all, do not launch the car hard off the line. Sacrifice the short time and just go for a good trapspeed which is really the indicator of power.

Here is the formula I use: RWHP = (((mph*mph)/ET)*(weight-with-driver/1000))/9.1 For example, my last run was 11.25 @ 121.62 and my car now weighs in at 2820lbs with me (harumph). (((121.62*121.62)/11.25)*2.82)/9.1 = 407.4RWHP If RWHP and weight are given, you can derive a number that is MPH squared/ET and there you have to play games with those numbers. I guessed your car's weight w/driver at 2700lbs and came up with 11.60s @ 117. That assumes a very ggod launch. If the launch is not good the ET will be less and the MPH more.

I hope I am not dyslexic, but I saw 6 secs in your post. Are we talking about an 1800hp motor in your Pro-Z?

Great thread folks. What you have posted and what I have found out about the Versailles rear probably rules it out. It most likely will not have an LSD and the ratios are 2.49 and 3.00. The "funky" brakes is the fact that the caliper is an oddity and the rotors are unidirectional, meaning if you put them on the wrong side, the vented rotor becomes non-functional. There seems to be a touch of Edsel in this car

Hey TimZ, now that is funny but I better not laugh since I am now at his mercy. James, just remember it was not me that said that. . . . . snicker. [ May 14, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

What ratio did you get?

Zgeezer, is that geezer as in old Z or old Z owner? On a serious note, I cannot confirm that is a Buick 4.1L but you can certainly go to the Buick tech site, www.gnttype.org, and see pics of a 4.1L or if you have a casting number, match it up. Several of the Buick hotrodders used the NA 4.1L as the basis for a turbo buildup. My buddy is doing one as we speak. However, since it was not originally a turbo motor, several mods have to be made, the details of which you can get on the Buick boards. www.turbobuicks.com www.turbobuick.com

I want to make sure I understand exactly what you have. Unmodified wastegate rod, relief valve currently wide open and the boost controller which is what you are currently using to control the boost. How much boost do you intend to run eventually? I believe the stock wastegate cannister spring is rated at 7# and if you intend to keep the boost at 12# or less, I would just work with the adjustable wastegate rod. From personal experience I try to limit the preload the shortened rod will add to about 5-6# so anything above 12-13# I would use the MBC. I think I have stated before that the problem with MBCs that are not modified for turbos is that they are typically made for a wider pressure range, like 0-100#. As such they use a stiffer spring and do not have enough granularity to allow you to adjust in 1# increments. I usually try to find a softer spring. Having said all of that, I never had a problem with my MBC as a result of heat, but I would imagine with little or no granularity that extreme temp could cause metal expansion and cause the change you are seeing. I would make the wastegate rod mod and use that if the boost will only be in the 10-12# range.

I do not have the Ford 8.8 yet but if the Mustang and Versaille are the same at about 59" and the Z is 57", I really do not believe it has to be narrowed. I have 15x8s with a 4.5" BS so if the Ford was 2" wider, would'nt an 8" wheel with a 5.5" BS on the 59" rear end up the same?

Tom, Cannot tell you which lead you need in a 78, but when I did mine, I just got out the old test light and tested every circuit until I found one that was hot while cranking. I then tapped into that wire and used it to trigger relays which had all new hot leads off the alternator for the ECM, injector driver and coilpack.

looks like it was most to the appropriate forum, Drivetrain.

God, I love this forum! The thought of anything that smacks of a Lincoln being only 2-3" wider than the Z is unfathomable . On a serious note, is it LSD and what is the ratio? I am sure BLKMGK can give us the hub-hub measurement on a Moosetang GT 8.8. I wonder if the Ford 8.8 with combined with the Cobra 5.9" BS wheels.... Naw, that would be too good to be true! BLKMGK, where are ya. [ May 14, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]