Scottie-GNZ

Mike, unless there are others not responding to this thread, I count 6 sets for sure: MikeK, Craig, Brian Spillar, 76 280Z Speeder, Glenn, Randy 77ZT. TimZ and Ross sound like maybes. Here is how I would like it to work. Once we have a confirmed 10, I will notify the machinist to start. Everyone sends a check to me and I forward 1 check to the machinist. He ships the adaptors to me and I pack and ship to you. Yes, that means a couple of $$ go towards shipping the adaptors to me (from Atlanta). The machinist is a friend and I do not want to burden him with dealing with individual checks and packing and shipping 10 small packages. I will take on that task . Not being a retailer, I know he also appreciates not having to deal with that. I would like to know we definitely have a confirmed 10 as I would prefer not to be stuck with having to pay for some of these. I do not have a small scale that can accurately weigh them but my scale says about 7lbs for the pair. I did a UPS Quick Cost calculator for an 8lb package in a 6" cube to CA and the shipping charge was $10.38. It would make life simple (for me) if everyone just adds $10 for shipping. Yeah, some of you guys will subsidize the west cosaters but I also have to buy 10 boxes. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Mike, I do not know if the 240SX brakes are identical to the 82-83 ZX, but in case you are unaware, the caliper must be installed on the Maxima brackets opposite of the ZX. IOW, R-side caliper goes on the left side, etc. Sometime back I did a brief HOW-TO on installing the late ZX brakes with the Maxima calipers. Here is a URL for the HOW-TO on the Ideal-Z website. It actually has a good pic of the infamous Maxima caliper for those who have never seen one or believe such a thing exists http://www.ideal-z.com/howto/rearbrake.htm ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

TimZ, I did not use the stock bolts and do not remember much about them except that I recall them having a 12mm head for extra install/removal clearance. I just went to a specialty shop and bought the strongest hex head bolts they had. I inspect mine after every track session and since I started using these adaptors, I have pulled my entire rear suspension out a couple of times and can see no problem. Did not have anything magnafluxed, but after al ot of banzai launches, I have stopped worrying about any of those components breaking. Lets hope we can get enough folks to make this happen. [On Soapbox] Unfortunately too many Z owners get used to finding bargain upgrades and sometimes lose sight of the value of some of the upgrades available to them. [Off Soapbox] ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

The price on the CV adaptor will be $110 + shipping assuming we can get a minimum of 10 pairs ordered. To recap, that price includes a pair of CNC-machined adaptors with a pocket for the CV, a pocket for the companion flange, center hole for the stub axle nut and tapped for 6 M8x1.25 bolts for the CVs. You supply your own bolts and are responsible for having the companion flange welded. Lets get a count of how many are interested to see if we can move forward with this. I ned to make one thing clear. I am not "selling" these adaptors. I am just a go-between to help you guys because I believe in the product and also do not want the machinist inundated with individual calls. I will work this GP but after that will not do individual orders. If there is interest beyond the GP, the price will be higher and probably be done through some retail outlet. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

That'll work. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Hey Evan, I keep missing that show but will catch it one of these days. The GNX had a ceramic ball-bearing turbo, ran more boost and high-13s. Imagine that GNX with another 100hp AND less about 1000lbs and you have some idea of my car. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

That is what I have in the car right now. Problem is that I am running this new chip and when the RPMs drop below 4000 at WOT, the chip references a different table and retards the timing and leans the fuel out slightly. Unfortunately, because the GN is not a high revver and I have to shift to OD, the RPMs drop down to 3660 (.67:1 OD) and I end up losing a bit on the top end. Since I expect the car to go even faster, the situation will worsen. I want to see if I can go through the traps in 3rd but do not want to run a 28" tire. The option is to go for a cam that raises the power curve and rev limit but might hurt the bottom end a little and the low-end torque is the strong point of this engine. The GNs that have the same power as me do not have this problem because they run a 3.42 and their MPH is not as high. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited February 02, 2001).]

You seem to be tripping over diffs in your garage. You would not happen to have a 3.36 R-200, would you? That is a question for anyone, really. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Chew on this for a while ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Folks, I am at the mercy of the machinist but he did tell me to call back this Friday. Sit tight for a few days and I will do my best to work it. BLKMGK, the adaptors are threaded, M8x1.25. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

if I recall, the E comes standard with an MSD coil and resistor and the 2nd option is for use with an MSD CD unit like the 6A. In that case the MSD coil is a delete option. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Lets see if I can address BLKMGK's concerns. As for a required parts list, thats the good part. Here are some basic assumptions. If you are doing the CV swap, you are going to have an R200, a set of CVs and stub axles with companion flanges already on the car. Be certain you get a set of CVs and not just 2. They are different lengths. If you have a late 260 or 280, you are set with the larger stub axles/flanges. If you have a 240, the adaptor side of the companion flange is identical to the 280, but again, the 280s are stronger. The companion flange is welded to the adaptor and once that is done, you are stuck with the matching stub axle. You cannot later switch to the 280 stubs. Only other thing you need is 6 M8x1.25 bolts. This adaptor solves the compression problem, at least as far as I can tell from racing my car and the tests I did. With the car in the air, I jacked up the passenger control arm to the point where the CVs was as compressed as it could get, and placing a pry bar on the diff end of the CV, I could still get a little more compression. Putting in the drivers side CV is no problem, but the passenger side is still a minor struggle. I have had mine out more times than I care to say and what I do is disconnect the bolts from the front of the control arm and the CV slides right in. Takes all of about a minute. As for the VLSD, I know 240Z Turbo has them in his car but I do not know exactly what it takes to make the swap. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited January 31, 2001).]

What a coincidence. http://www.turbobuick.com/bb/Forum13/HTML/009400.html ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

When I ordered mine, I had no plans to run the stock setup beyond 15# boost. Little did I know and I eventually ran 17# with the stock turbo and just fattened up the fuel on the last 2 boost parameters and threw in an extra degree of retard on the last. Obviously it worked because I was making up 27mph from the 1/8 to the 1/4 Re the impedance, they changed the design with the EM-3. The previous versions used external injector driver boxes. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Whether you use a 2-bar or 3-bar MAP sensor has nothing to do with driveability or sensitivity as I saw mentioned in an earlier post. The difference to you is the range of programmability. If you buy a 2-bar, you are limited to programming up to 15# boost. This does not prevent you from running >15#, you just cannot program for it and the ECU will use the last values programmed in. If you get a 3-bar sensor, you can program the parameters up to 30# boost. The difference is that the level of granularity you have for progamming values is less. Imagine a 6K RPM tach with 100 RPM incrememnts on a 270* sweep. Now take the same 270*, retain the same number of increments (60) but change the tach to 10K RPMs. Probably not a good analogy but the first one that came to mind. If you are anal, then that will probably bother you, but remeber you are programming fuel and ignition retard curves based on boost demand and those curves will be ramped, fuel up for boost, spark advance down for retard. IMO, do not lose sleep over it. Keep one more thing in mind, these programmable systems are not made for a Z or any other specific car for that matter. Chances are the vendor has no clue about your specific car. You are not dealing with MSA, et al. Think about it, you toss out your distributor, ECM, AFM and all the wiring and whats left? A 6-cyl engine with a turbo. BTW, was the order placed directly with SDS or with Carlos? If Ross is willing to give you 20%, then the price is the same. Difference is that Carlos would be your first call for support and he has me and Mark (an assistant) to help him with Z tech issues. Mark also has a Z and a 500hp 1.8L Silvia, with SDS, of course . In any case, you guys do whatever you feel comfortable with. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Ron, you are correct. The owner finally posted some more details. The car's best time is 7.96 @ 172.70 with a 1.22 60'. That puts the HP at 1113RWHP. He just swapped out the 4.10s for 4.56 and expects to see an improvement in his 60' time . ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

quote This is an accurate statement but there seems to be some confusion. The stub axle and companion flange is a match set, 240Z or 280Z. Regardless of which you use, the bolt pattern of the companion flange is the same and you need an adaptor to connect the 4-bolt (almost square) companion flange to the 6-bolt round CV. If you go with the 280ZXT companion flange on the 240Z stub axle, then you just have to deal with the issues of that conversion. Those who think they need CVs are obviously doing it because of a need for additional strength in the axles. Seems to defeat the purpose if you go for CVs and continue to use the smaller 240Z stub axles. Being forced to dig into my personal archives , here is what I came up with. 280z 27 splines with an outside diameter of 1.090" 240 and 280zx 25 splines with an outside diameter of 1.015" 300zx 26 splines with an outside diameter of 1.085" One more pic of the finished product mounted on a stub axle. BTW, if I am overdoing with the images, let me know. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Jeromio, We are saying the same thing. Note that in my list with the dimensions, the 240Z and 280ZX are together. Terry, you are correct about the bearing journals being identical (I can vouch for the 240 and 280s). My dimensions are for the splined area. Do not know the torque ratings, but I have seen several failures on a 300ZXT and every one was the stub axle snapping in the splined area. This car however was a full-bodied 86 ZXT trying to launching a 700hp hand-grenade with a 5-spd. Dont ever recall him breaking any other axle component. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Here are some pics to remind everyone, and those who do not know, what the adaptor looks like. The first pic is the CV side and you can see the pocket that the CV end sits in and the splines of the companion flange in the center. The next shows the wheel side with the companion flange welded on. The modified adaptor would have a pocket for the companion flange and the depth of the pocket would equal the thickness of the flange. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

In the past, there seemed to be some interest in the CV adaptor I am using. I even had a personal email inquiring on the availablity. I spoke to the machinist and unfortunately he is really busy at this time but being a Z enthusiast himself, he promises to get back to me with a price. He did mention that he needed to find a lower price on the raw stock. Seeing how well mine is working for me, I am confident about the preciseness of the adaptor itself and that my companion flange was welded on true. The problem I have with selling the adaptor is I could not guarantee that someone else would weld the flange on true and that their weld would be good. In speaking with the machinist, we agreed the design could be modified to have a pocket on the wheel side of the adaptor that the flange would fit in. This would guarantee the flange would be properly positioned and it would also take the stress off the weld. This is all for nought if there is not enough interest out there. We all know that having just 1 or 2 sets CNC-machined is not cost effective. What I would like to know is how much interest there is out there and what do folks think is a reasonable price for a set (2). For me, it was all part of a big deal because the machinist is the one who now has my L28T/SDS/NPR setup and he was excited enough to make them because he also wanted a set. I jack my car up check the driveline after every track session and I have not even had to retighten the bolts. Thats approx 450 lb/ft of torque with sticky tires and counting . ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited January 29, 2001).]

When I made mine, I paid $32 for 2' of aluminum stock. The rail ended up being 21" long and I used 6 barbed brass fittings for the injectors and the appropriate sizes on the ends for the -8 inlet and -6 outlet. That makes a total of 8 holes. Despite having a drill and taps, I farmed that out to a machine shop to ensure it was accurately done. Then had to fabricate the mounting brackets and drill small holes in the stock to mount it all up. IMO, despite the satisfaction of doing it (some of it anyway) myself, the $25 I would have saved would not be worth the hassle. I also like the fact that his stock is SS which eliminates the chance of stripping threads. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

If you plan on pulling decent HP, -8 feed is not big, it is required. I have -8 feed, -6 off the rail connected to the original 5/16" feed back to the cell, then -6 again at the cell. As for the rail, you can make your own but Craig (IdealZ) told me last night he dropped his price to $125 for his SS unit with rubberized mounts. For that price, not worth the hassle making your own. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

That sig is an offering from the guy who runs the board and everyone thinks it is neat. Maybe Dan might consider that . I am sure one the web graphical gurus could take on that challenge. Below is what Drax is referring to. Everyone member on one the Buick Turbo forums can have a personalized signature. This is mine:

The 3800 is different from the 3.8L, but since you stated it is an 86, I am pretty sure it is the 3.8L. Take a look on page 4 of the long thread in High Tech and I have a post that details the components needed to put a manual on a 3.8L. I will do check on when the 3800 was first available. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Tim and John, the points you raise are ones that we considered but feel confident about the results. The pressure measured at the FPR was done with a very accurate top of the line guage purchased from Grainger. When it registered +4 compared to the mityvac, we performed the same test on his and the mityvac and pressure gauge was dead-on 1 for 1 up to 20#. Cannot say for sure how accurate his boost gauge is, but it matched the mityvac within fractions. John, re your question, this very topic is in another post. With my FPR set to 46# at idle, vacuum off, it should register 66# at 20# boost. This is a situation I have been battling for about 2 months and my frustrations just came to a head. I am certain my blown head gasket was the result of the beginnings of the FPR going bad. Before the blown gasket, I had 3 runs at 21# on the guage with the O2s very rich and then POP. You normally should not blow a head gasket with ~17# boost and 112-octane unless your fuel volume dropped tremendously. BTW, my buddy ran his GN Thurs night and we have the same setup except he is running a stock ported turbo with a larger exhaust housing. He ran 11.92 @ 111.77. Does not sound impressive until you realize his car weighs in at 3,750lbs and the HP formula spits out 430RWHP. My immediate goal is to match that HP number which should put me in the 10.80s. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ