Scottie-GNZ

I have a complete unit, turn signal, headlights, etc and it is the last piece I have from the GNZ . The turn signal stalk is slightly bent down from it hooking into my jacket but everything works perfectly. Email or PM me if interested. It will be cheap.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html

What he said. And like Tim said, if the driveline does not know, then go somehwre else. That Neapco part should be on their shelf or easily available as it is nothing special.

Not quite sure I understand whether or not you have a turbo or NA engine. If it is turbo, no way you should go 3x. Unless you have a set of 3x Mikunis or Webers with all the required pieces, then consider spending those $$$ on an SDS. The SDS will eliminate all the factory crap that looks like afterthoughts and stopgaps for emissions. While the 3x has the WOW! factor, you would be amazed how the engine bay will look when you elimate all the factory wiring, AFM, and doodads. Shop around for aftermarket fuel rail to replace that "plumbers nightmare". While an SDS initially sounds expensive, the 3x with the proper manifolds and filters is not cheap either. If you have an NA, you really need something better than the factory cam to really take advantage of the 3x. I am willing to bet a finely tuned NA EFI with SDS with a 60mm TB could probably match the 3x w/o cam upgrade in performance and be more reliable in the long run with exceptional mileage. A 3x with cam upgrade can make power but you did say you wanted reliability and to me that also means not having to "tune" every month. Before I went to an L28et in my Z, I ran an L28 with 3x Mikunis and cam. Looked great, ran great when it was tuned, BUT.....

Congrats, Dave !!

Thanks all!

How critical is the positioning of a coolant recovery tank (not a simple overflow) to the radiator itself? I am specifically referring to height and to the length of the hose?

I am with Tony on this. From some of the comments I see, it looks like folks are confusing initial timing with what is really meaningful as it relates to timing at max boost. There are 4 things to consider with timing on a forced induction engine: 1. initial timing which is set at idle and what everyone is familiar with. 2. Total advance which is how much the timing is advanced and to what RPM as RPM and load increases. 3. Retard, which is how how timing is retarded as boost increases. 4. The one that is of primary importance, Total timing, which is total advance minus retard. More boost/less timing will always make more power than more timing/less boost and decreasing total timing (more retard) will allow you to run more boost. While you need more fuel to support more boost, it is somewhat of a fallacy to think that is not the case with more timing. Increasing boost or timing will require more fuel and/or more octane. I am sure no one running 14+ psi of boost with the stock ECM has any idea what their total timing is and I wonder if anyone even knows what the ECM actually does with timing beyond the factory set 7psi. As Tony said, the beauty of a programmable system is that you build your own timing curve to ramp the advance as quickly and as high as you want for crisper throttle response but feed in the appropriate retard for increasing boost.

Take another look at Mat's pics. :D

Last thing I expected was clearance problems with the DP once you got it in place. It does require a twisting motion to get it in place. Are you using the DS poly mount I sent you? Is this the pic you are looking for?

Everything fitting as planned so far?

You mean the red 2nd-gen? If so, stay away from it at the next SEZ because that is now my car and it was happy lots of problems at the last SEZ :D Here is what it looks like now that I am just about done with it.

Now we are talking!!! That puny little pushrod lump certainly does not look intimidating and could not possibly make much HP :D Look at it. It's lost in the engine bay.

DeSoto was just another division of Chrysler like Plymouth and Dodge.

My exact words when I started running the Z (L28ET-powered) to dial in the power in preparation for autocrossing and Porsche/BMW drivers schools. Lets revisit this discussion in a couple of months when you crack into the 12s and start notching "musclecar" victims on your door :D

The car gained less than 20mph in the 2nd half and I believe your light weight and 3.54s should net more than that. Not a diss but inspiration for you to know the car can do a lot better. If you are using regular street tires, talk to Z-Gad about a pair of DRs as there is lots to gain by working on the 60'. Nail that 60' and turn it up to 15psi and you will need surgery to get that sh*t grin off your face.

Please post a pic of the timeslip and put an end to this.

You are still missing the point. It does not matter what the dyno number is. The only thing that matters is what the dyno number is on the next pull compared to the previous to see if you are making progress. IOW, the only comparison you should be making is the net results of one pull vs another on the same dyno in the same session.

I am with you on this. Never really understaood the obsession with wanting a 3" DP on a stock turbo or even a t3/t04 with the stock wastegate. There is only so much HP you can make with that turbo. I am making 520 AT THE WHEELS and doing just fine with a 3" DP on a "P" trim exhaust wheel so why is 2.5" with 2 45* bends not enough for a 275-325hp L28ET with a 2.125" wastegate?

13.7 in a 240Z turbo with 3.54 should probably trap 5mph more. What was the 1/8-mile ET/MPH? I know a lot of folks do not want to hear this and do not agree with me, but I think part of the problem is the I/C being too restrictive. That I/C was designed to support an OEM engine with ~150hp. No one can argue that OEM I/Cs in a low-cost car like the Probe was very efficient and probably has a fair amount of pressure drop with the stock engine. Anyone believe that I/C was designed to support another 50% increase in flow with any efficiency? With a good trap speed, I put you in the 210+rwhp range and would not be surprised if the turbo is pushing 13+psi to net you 9 at the intake. That translates into higher intake temps. Definitely look into the lifters or even a swap to a P90. If you run again soon w/o changing anything, shift into 4th and not run it up to 6000 in 3rd to see if that helps. I do not believe a stock L28ET gains anything above 5800. If you have a bigger turbo and exhaust it would be a little different.

Is that a typo? I agree with John C on the stubs. I would go with the 280ZXT CVs and 280Z stubs. The stubs will be the weak point in such a setup but I believe there is more chance of breaking them if you were shocking them with a drag race launch on slicks and a manual tranny. As for which car to get, tough decision. I agree the 280Z gets you the stubs and a stiffer stock chassis but a 240Z is lighter, a racer's friend and your driveline will love you for it. 400hp in any road racing Z wil require reinforcement so I think the 280Z's advantage is negated. Just my $.02.

If you are not losing boost or have a badly slipping clutch, then you might be on the right track with the power problem. The Buick turbo engines have a similar problem caused by weak valve springs which would produce the same symptoms and results. What was the trap speed and did you guys put an I/C in the car? Tried to run the 7 last Sunday and the engine felt strong but the car was an absolute dog only able run 11.7 @ 114.4mph with the datalog showing the engine almost at redline thru the traps. Brand new Art Carr convertor was slipping at close to 40% all the way down the track! They will fix it for free, but dangnabbit, I have to pull it and ship it back to them again.

Awesome!!!! Glad to see you finally got it going.

I am amazed that discussions comparing dynos and dyno numbers can go on for 3 pages.

No! No one has even done it yet with race gas.