Scottie-GNZ

I know you (and others) do not want to hear this, but do not use that I/C. That I/C was designed to support an engine that made LESS HP than the L28ET did w/o an I/C. When I say designed to support, I mean the amount of air it can flow for the HP the engine will make and to dissipate the heat. The point of putting an I/C on the L28ET is so you can increase the HP. More HP means more flow and heat which is more than the small I/C can effeciently handle so you now have a restriction. So, what do you do? The turn up the boost some more at the turbo so the engine can get more net boost. More boost on a system wih a restriction increases heat and back pressure. So.......well, I hope you get the idea.

I used the stock '73 901 side-shifter but as I said, I used a 302SBC. I would definitely not recommend anything bigger than a 327 or 400hp. The car wil tip the scales at about 2200lbs and with the estimated 300hp of the stock 302, there was nothing that could run with me and it easily walked away from 930s on the top-end. 400hp would be downright scary and extreme excess. The 930 transaxle will handle anything you can throw at it but I can guarantee it will cost more than the entire swap when you are done will all the mods needed. I say build a small displacement, high-revving small block and target 300hp, no drag racing starts or speed shifting and you will end up with a great diver and frightening top-end acceleration. Do not go crazy on the engine with big HP as it is just not needed. A 300hp 914-V8 will perform like a 400hp Z-car. Even at a measly 300hp , it is going to command your respect.

No, not my car. Couple years ago when I was deciding on the drivetrain for my Z, that was an option along with the TT and Buick 3.8. I tried desperately to get in touch with the owner but had no luck. You are in luck though as you just need to start buttering up ZR8ED.

Pick one and focus on just it. IMO, #2 with #4 engine, get rid of everything else and work on 1 project.

I used one in my very first engine swap, a Corvair engine in a VW Bug. For automotive engines, the Corvair and 4-cyl Hondas are the only ones I can think of that would need it and only if doing an engine swap. Nothing to it except you have to remember the firing order.

While I agree with your installer on how to route the pipes, I fail to see all the added bends he thinks it will have. That is how I did mine and since Drax has a nice pic of his similar system in a link, take a look at that. The components required to increase power in a turbo engine are so related that it is really tough to do one and not the other(s). E.g., increasing power with an exhaust upgrade will require more fuel to support the added HP. Installing the I/C means you can turn up the boost for more power but the restricted exhaust will create backpressure and therefore more heat and the added power needs more fuel. However, your press-bent 3" exhaust is certainly better than stock so I would go with the I/C and leave the boost alone until you address the fueling. While a good 3" exhaust will add HP, the difference will not be that noticeable at your power level and because you already have something better than stock. I ran a single 3" mandrel pipe with 520hp so not having a 3" exhaust with 200 wont kill you Sure I confused you even more.

A decent set of pistons in an unmolested shortblock, a little massaging on the heads and the correct combination of bolt-ons (this is where you make the power) will get you 400rwhp with no problems. Regardless of what you do internally, you are still going to need the right combo of bolt-ons (turbo/exhaust/IC/engine mgt/fueling) so why go to all that trouble and expense unless it really makes a difference that you make 400rwhp at 7000+ instead of 6000. With a turbo engine, the higher you push the power band beyond stock, the less "rock solid" things tend to get. One thing that a lot of folks miss is that a turbo engine is all about torque and if this is a street-driven car, you go for torque as low as possible rather than hp as high as possible. What your combo is doing is lowering the torque and moving it up higher in the rev range. OTOH, that is what makes the world go round. I love seeing people come up with new ideas and I hope it is the right choice.

Just curious, why would you spend all that money to got that route? What are you trying to accomplish with that engine configuration?

Better than "Surfing With The Aliens"?

If this is true, seems to me the extra cost of an RB26 would not be worth it, considering most folks probably could not deal with 586RWHP in a 240Z. Is that a twisted view?

Hey, what's a pic of my car doing in this post? :D

How could you guys come to Orlando and not plan a quick get-together?

Maserati Quatraporte?

It was either screaming for mercy or stuck in 1st gear and I am sure those were its last words. OTOH......oh heck, BS! man, this stuff is getting thick around here so why not add to it. 135mph in a tick over 10-secs, pinned to the seat and still in 3rd with OD to go. Oh wait, I do not have a Z :D

Boy, you got that right! Unfortunately a lot of people do not.

Nice VelaRossa. Hmmm. How much suspension travel before those springs bind?

MAS280, this car has a C4 Vette diff (the pumpkin only). The rear cover was narrowed like my Z and we modified the stub axles in the diff by chopping off the u-joint cups and welding on a disc-shaped adaptor so stock TII CVs bolt up to it. Same concept as my old Z-car CV adaptor except the adaptor is on the diff side instead of the hub side. Theory is that if anything will break it will be CVs and stock CVs are fairly inexpensive. They are also quite strong. 240Z Turbo, where do you find time to post? You are supposed to be busy getting me pricing on that Garret core for the FD project . I will probably be contacting you early next week to talk about making the I/C. We will be doing the mockup this weekend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7909602246&ssp

Double-check those dimensions. It says the core is 24.8" and if you add the end tanks and another 4-5" for the 90* bends, it will be too wide.

Please, pray tell, what does a 1980 280ZX have that an E46 M3 does not? Only thing I can think of is that the M3 is automatic.

Getting cleaned up for the first time in months. Gets a buff and polish this weekend and the internal WG swapped out for the external next weekend followed by the cage. Plan to keep it as innocent-looking as possible, on the outside More pics early next week.

Still have more to do but we are on the road.

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=181510#post181510

Despite how many Zs I have owned (all hybrids) and how long I have been tweaking the last one, I am not tied to a brand, unless it's a Porsche The RX7, even though heavier than the GNZ, is much lighter than a Z31. The RX7 was already converted. The 2nd-gen RX7 might not be a classic or have killer looks, but it is highly underrated. This is a toy, not a ride that I sink all my funds into or the only car I have fun in.