Scottie-GNZ

Only $85 Buy It Now, but did you notice it will be $160 for shipping/handling/insurance?

This is a blast from the past. I know the post stated factory IRS but the responses seemed to venture off to IRS in general. Can a Z (or any car) with IRS lift the front wheels? Yes, because I did it although not with a factory IRS as it could not withstand the "abuse". We are not talking wheelstand here, just enough to get air under the tires. Here is a hi-9 sec GN-powered C4 (IRS I ran) doing it. Look at that awful squat

Terry, wish you the best of luck on getting into the 10s. However, do not beat yourself up over it if you miss the target. My calculation says you need to find another 45rwhp to make it and that is not always so easy without a lot of track time and tuning. You will definitely need to crank up the giggle-juice BUT do not over-anxious and try too hard on the launch as that is where you will hurt your chances. Rooting for you!

http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=669

How about a football shoulder pad and work with someone to have it modified so the top of the pad does not rest on the shoulder are of the artery? Should be able to find a used shoulder pad cheap.

Your description of how you have it wired could lead to misintrpretation so here is what I suggest: - Run a 10-gauge wire from the "to battery" connector on the realay DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY or a connection off the battery, not the ign switch. Do not use any orignal Datsun wiring except to trigger the relay. - Run a 10-gauge from the "to pump" connector on the relay to the pump. - Use the original wire that used to power the pump and connect it to the "switched source" on the relay. Not sure exactly what you are using for the low-pressure switch, but run the original wire that goes to the "switched source" on the relay (also referred to as the trigger or "85") or the relay ground through that oil-pressure switch. With this setup you will have 12V going to the relay all the time but will only get to the pump when you turn the ign on, just like you did originally. If the oil-pressure gets low, you disrupt the relay. Pretty much the same thing Projectrb240sx said.

Thanks all. Looks like I will wire it up as planned. Jeromio, the ECM does control 2 speeds but I believe the Hi-spd is triggered for A/C on and some ridiculous temp like 210-215*. Never want to see my temp get that high before corrective action is taken. BTW, anyone have a 24x19 Griffin for sale that is not all beato to sh*t? Looking to sell my 22x19 with a 2-spd fan.

The top diagram is how I have my fan wired except that thge trigger for the Lo-spd is through my manual switch and the trigger for the Hi-spd is from the ECM. I just want to know if anyone sees a problem with the running the Taurus fan in Hi-spd only considering the amperage.

None of the answers I need will be found by a search so please do not slam me :D I currently have a 2-spd Escort fan with motor/blades that looks similar to the Taurus but does not move enough air on a hot day stuck in traffic. Currently I have the hi-spd turned on by the ECM @ 176 and the Lo-spd wired through a relay with a manual switch so I can run the fan with the engine off in the pits. IOW, Lo-spd is never used unless I turn it on and cooling is by the Hi-spd only. While the engine is out, I plan to upgrade from a 22x19 aluminum rad with the 2-spd Escort fan to a 24x19 with the Taurus fan. I know the fan will need to be trimmed. My question is, can I wire and run the Taurus fan as I do today? I realize I will need 10-gauge wiring and a 40-amp relay but my concern is running the Taurus fan on Hi-spd only. If it helps in the consideration, the GN alternator is a 120-amp and I can get a kit to upgrade it to 200-amp.

I believe this one will top it. http://64.27.21.61/forums/showthread.php?t=261929

You do not need 3" pipes for your HP level. Pretty sure your compressor outlet is 2", so you do not really need more than 2.25 to the I/C but using 2.5 makes an easier transition to 3". I am well over 500 at the wheels and transition my I/C inlet from 2" to 2.5, then blew out the end of the 2.5 to 3 to mate up with the I/C. From the I/C I reduce it to 2.5 to the TB. BTW, too much is being made of lag and "filling up the pipes". The main cause of lag is the wrong turbo components and running too rich in the low end. If you properly size the turbine wheel and housing and not have the engine load up on the bottom end, lag is not an issue. Need to remember that an L28ET is a low-compression engine with probably less torque than an N/A off boost. So, you are going from less torque than an N/A to probably 50% or more torque with boost and how well it transitions to full boost determines "lag". You need exhaust energy at low speeds to get that turbine wheel spinning up to 80-90,000RPMs and a bigger/heavier wheel and larger a/r housing needs even more exhaust energy. For a street car that wants snappy response, do not go crazy on turbine side.

Whooo....you're in deep trouble now!! But I got your back because I agree with you. As much as Z fanatics will hate to admit it, the stock Z was a breakthrough in its day but is a slug compared to some mid-late 80s cars and most modern "sports cars". I seem to recall the 944 being lauded my many automotive rags as the "Best Handling Car" in comparison tests. A well-prepped hybridZ? Well that's another story but at JM said, a well-prepped 944T is one awesome piece of equipment.

Anyone know how to contact Rick Hughes in the Gainesville area? Tried email and cell but no response. I need to have him get in touch with me.

If 300rwhp is what you will settle for, then go with an L28ET with the right components. Will it be easier than the GNZ? Yes. Will it be cheaper? Questionable. Depends on the condition of the drivetrain and the components you get to make 300 (remember we are talking RWHP). The entry fee on a GNZ will always be a little more but if the goal is way beyond 300rwhp then it is the better choice as it take pennies to make 300-350rwhp. Will the L28ET be as economical? It could, but it will take the right components, a lot of tuning, and as quicker240 said, driver discipline. Fiddling with the AFM, cold start valves, cranking up the FPR, running 18+psi boost on the stock turbo, etc, are all cheap ways to get the magical 300hp but will not get you everything else you want. Speed cost money and it is really hard to get speed/power, cheap, easy and gas ecomony all at once. BTW, ponder this thought. 300rwhp in a turbo car will not be enough. Trust me on this. Once you go beyond that, the econimics get a lot more interesting.

Incorrect. Not with the stock cam.

Interesting thread. Like Speeder said, too much is just about right .....for some. It really depends on whether or not the driver understands and respects that power and has the skill and smarts (2 different things) to know how and when to use it. I do not know how many folks on here are driving 400+rwhp cars on the street but I find the more power you have, the less you need or want to show it off, unless you are like a certain infamous hot-dog (hush my mouth). With the realization of the acceleration of such a beast at 100+mph, it never ceases to amaze me that people think it cool to "race" at those speeds on public roads. Believe me, it only takes one experience of your life flashing in your mind's eye to resist the tempation but I know most think it will never happen to them or they have the skill to handle it (skill vs smarts!!). As for the issue with traction, only one person mentioned drag radials. I put the power in the GNZ at about 520rwhp and the RX7 maybe a tad more (to be proven) and I would not drive with anything but drag radials on the street. Anything else is simply a waste of rubber and a spin waiting to happen. As for the DRs, do not consider BFGs for the street. I highly recommend Nittos and I got about 8,000 miles out of them with many a 10-sec pass. So, the answer to the question is, whatever you have the skill AND smarts to handle.

AW Shucks. You're making me blush :D Awesome video! Nothing like putting 2 car lengths on the "competition" by the 60' mark.

No, but I got a look at his new billet CV adaptors and CV shaft and all I can say is WOW!!! Those items will be on dispaly at SEZS and are worth seeing.

Like heavy Z and Mike C said, you would be hard pressed to fit 275s on a 15x8 w/4" b.s. on a 1st-gen, but maybe you have more clearance with a ZX. Definitely see who is running "big" tires on a ZX before you invest. By my rough calcuation, you should be able to see at least 118mph @ 5500RPMs in 4th with the 3.54s on a 26.1" tire. I see no need for a 28" tire unless you see the car trapping well over 120mph. If you plan on driving the car on the street with these tires I strongly recommend against the BFG DRs. They hook like mad but will wear out VERY QUICKLY and they are downright threcherous in the rain. The new MT DRs hook just as well as the BFGs and will have a little better tread life. No issues in the rain with these. I am currently running 255/50-16s on the RX7 and they drive like normal radials and hook like hell. The Nittos hook just slightly less but is a great street tire and I got good performance and about 8000 miles out of them on the GNZ. Several trips to/from the SEZ events in driving rain storms and the Nittos were the least of my concern.

Could not agree more. Ross will get back with you as soon as he returns. I just speaking with him today, in person, at the Z-fest event.......in Orlando.

I have used header wrap on the DP of the 3.8L turbo engine for over 4yrs for the 2 reasons listed. However, it should only be used with SS.

"1/8 th Mile ......15 psi........6.33/116 mph......no traction first 60 ft."......That is 9s.

More cylinders and cubic inches does not always mean more power, especially when the comparison is with the 4G63 or SR20det. A decently prepped 4G63 or SR20det will give a V8 all it can handle in power, not to mention the advantages of lighter weight, weigh distribution and fuel economy. Having said that, you cannot argue with the LS1/Z swap as that engine is proving to be one of the nicest for any hybrid.

Interesting setup. By coincidence I lined up against a s-charged Z06 at the track Wed night with "600hp" stickers on the fenders. I imagine that car must be a beast on street from a roll or on a road course but he could not launch it with the huge low-profile tires. He could only manage a 2.09 60' to my 1.567 and he ended up running 11.70 @ 126.33 to my 11.49 @ 84.9 :D Only the 3rd pass for the RX7 and since I do not have my cage yet I coasted across the line. When he passed me at the finish he was probably going 50mph faster and almost blew me off the track! Even with my windows rolled up, that engine was making a serious noise. With a better 60' that car should run low-11s. Serious road car!